Where is the water coming from...?

Jerry B

Jerry B

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Jan 22, 2008
13
Oday 272LE Gilford, NH
Has anybody ever taken on the task of removing/re-sealing the rub rail on a 272LE or similiar boat? The v-berth and 1/4 berth is still getting dripped on after having cleats, stanchions, pulpits cleaned and re-bedded. Is this the next logical step or should I jump overboard with the anchor?:cry: This rub rail has a molded plastic cap along the top of the rubber, which appears to be slightly separated from the hull. Would a bead of silicone along these spaces do the trick, or is this just wishful thinking......?:confused: Thanks for any input!
 
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AWalker

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Nov 13, 2011
166
Oday 23 New River Az
Not familiar with that particular boat, but usually it is a matter of pulling off the rub rail and re sealing the seam with a product like 3m5200.
 
agprice22

agprice22

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Aug 3, 2012
2,542
Performance Cruising Telstar 28 302 Watkins Glen
There is rubrail, and there is the rubber insert. The rubrail is not usually completely sealed to the side of the boat. I doubt it would stay sealed anyway. Rather the hull/deck joint and screw holes behind it are sealed, with a bead of caulk laid behind the rail.

Remove your rail, epoxy the old holes, drill the new hole, apply a short bead of caulk, and screw that area of the rail to the boat. Continue in that fashion around the boat. I would use a premix thickened epoxy in a tube or thickened epoxy in a large syringe. I would guess 4 or 5 pumps of epoxy and hardener would do it for the screw holes for a 27 ft boat. Remember to thicken before you add hardener. Add lots of thickener to keep the epoxy from sagging out and making a mess of your hull. I have used West System Six10 Adhesive tubes. It is hard to dispense with a regular gun, but do-able. It stays in place, but it is slow curing. If you want to drill through the same holes, you probably have to wait overnight unless you have a really hot day.

I would use 3M 4200.

Thanks,

Andrew
 
njlarry

njlarry

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Sep 23, 2009
1,477
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Could be the hull/deck joint as the area may have had impact damage.
Spray water from the outside and watch inside.
Do not use silicone. Life caulk if the rub rail, 5200 if the hull/deck.
If you need any epoxy, Gel Flex comes in a thickened form/
Good luck.
 
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Pat

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Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
AG above is exactly right on his fix....the rub rail on our 272 had to be removed immediately after we bought the boat new because it leaked so badly...O'Day told me that many times the rub rails they purchased from whatever vendor did not fit the shape of the hull after they had already drilled the installation holes...so they would remove the first rail and install a new one. They were suppose to fill the first (not used) holes before the 2nd one was installed but mostly they failed to do that in the factory...so essentially, what you are doing is removing the rub rail and filling the holes that are leaking thru to the inside....you'll recognize the unfilled holes immediately...then
fill them and reinstall the rub-rail....We started in the morning with our boat dealer and finished it in one day....but it was a full day...there is a piece of wood that is to act as a hull stiffener at the hull-to-deck joint that is screwed into for strength from both the
rub rail and then from the toe-rail and that piece of wood has holes in it from the first rub-rail that in certain places did not conform to the shape of the hull....these holes are what you must fill....I was amazed how many holes were not filled...hopefully, this sort of makes sense.....Pat
 
agprice22

agprice22

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Aug 3, 2012
2,542
Performance Cruising Telstar 28 302 Watkins Glen
Pat, that is intriguing history! Who would have thought they just leave the holes unfilled? It makes me ant to check mine! I will redo my rub rail this Fall, after I pull the boat.

Thanks,

Andrew
 
Ward H

Ward H

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Nov 7, 2011
3,833
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
I did my 25 as Andrew outlined. Pulled the rub rail insert and holder, filled all holes with West 610 thickened epoxy, pulled out 2 or 3 joint screws at a time, covered with 4200 and retightened. Then had the yard reinstall the rub rail. (ran out of time to do it myself) This stopped all leaks. If I was doing it again I would use 5200 on the joint screws since I found several that had backed out a bit.
I planned to run a bead of 4200 where the top of the rub rail holders meets the hull but never did.
 
Jerry B

Jerry B

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Jan 22, 2008
13
Oday 272LE Gilford, NH
All you guys are great! I was suspicious of this area early on, but never to the extent that everyone is pointing out. Apparently I spent about 300 bucks on the wrong fixes - looks like the real work lies ahead. So THANK YOU all for your real world advice. Jerry
 
Jerry B

Jerry B

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Jan 22, 2008
13
Oday 272LE Gilford, NH
One more question: Has anybody replaced the original rub rail with a better/more solid application ? (Even if it is from another manufacturer). The exiting (plastic molding)above and below the rubber insert seems a bit flimsy and will probably break down/split again in a few years from UV or pressure against a piling. All replies welcomed. Jb
 
Yankee Girl

Yankee Girl

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Dec 27, 2011
10
ODay 25 Smithfield, VA
Man I'm getting that crappy feeling. I've been racking my brain chasing water leaks, about to re bed all the deck hardware, glad I looked here. Last year I replaced the rub rail with the "original" type. The new plastic rub rail did not take a curve well and ive been concerned about the seal it made to the hull. I used 5200 to seal the existing holes. Now I'm thinking I might have been my own worst enemy. If I had to do it again I'd really scope the market for a rub rail that's easier to install. The post about all the holes wasn't kidding, you will be surprised when the rail comes off and you see that it was hiding all kinds of funny manufacturing techniques.

I like the ideas for the toe rails too. Any thoughts on how often re bedding of stanchions and cleats should be done?
 
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Pat

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Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
JB, our rub rail is aluminum with a rubber insert.....did not have plastic...odd that O'Day would have quit using the aluminum in favor of plastic...was there a previous owner before you? He may have had the leaks and replaced the rub rail w/plastic vs. O'Day...
but maybe not....Pat
 
Jerry B

Jerry B

.
Jan 22, 2008
13
Oday 272LE Gilford, NH
Plastic vs. Aluminum rub rail

Pat said:
JB, our rub rail is aluminum with a rubber insert.....did not have plastic...odd that O'Day would have quit using the aluminum in favor of plastic...was there a previous owner before you? He may have had the leaks and replaced the rub rail w/plastic vs. O'Day...
but maybe not....Pat
Click to expand
Hello Pat-
I agree - Plastic seems like a poor choice for rub rails which takes a lot of bumping. What year is your boat? Maybe I can get that rail to use on mine.
 
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Pat

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Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
Re: Plastic vs. Aluminum rub rail

Ours is a 1986 model....very early one.....we've got other manufacturing issues as well..
mainly a poor cockpit floor that needs immediate replacement, but I'm not certain I am man enough to try and re-do it....may have to pay a local fiberglass fellow to do it...it's leaking badly around the base of the Edson steering pedestal. I spoke with Edson about this (knowing it was not their fault) at the Newport Boat Show last week.....they are aware of issues but O'Day is not unique in this...Many builders have a very thin laminate
section where it should be beefy...btw...did anyone attend the boat show last week..?
what a fine time we had in Newport. Pat
 
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