Where do find the leaks?

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SailboatOwners.com

First of all, let's acknowledge that the permanently water-tight sailboat has yet to be invented. The extreme loads carried by the rig, stringers, bulkheads, etc., can cause leaks to open up on your -- or any -- boat. Where do find the leaks on yours? How do you trace them and fix them? Share your leaky secrets here, then vote in this week's Quick Quiz at the bottom of the home page.
 
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david lewis

leaks

my mast is an extrusion with grooves the entire length for using special mast cars for spinaker pole attachments. almost impossible to seal the groove from rain a few leaks from screws with old bedding that leaked and caused some core repairs, a word of warning to all others!! the stuffing box comes to mind which is supposed to leak a very little opening ports always leak if you open them, they never seem to seal right afterwards, a trick is to coat the seals with vaseline to stop the leaks. regards dave
 
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Bob Knott

Can't wait to hear

Great topic at the right time... Went to Serenity yesterday to check her out and found a small puddle in the starboard aft lazarette. This is the removable lazarette which an be lifted to install a generator. It leaked before when my boat was new and it was fixed by my dealer under warranty. Now the boats out of warranty so any clues for how to find the small leak would be appreciated. Bob Knott H380 S/V Serenity
 
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Ed Schenck

Amazingly few for an old boat.

My 1979 H37C seems very tight compared to a lot of what I see on HOW. The mast is keel stepped so short of putting a garbage bag over the top not much I can do. It did help to seal the bottom of the tracks but the top is still open. My old Gray portlights do not leak which is pretty incredible. The ten new bronze ports that I am putting in this Spring probably will! There is just a hint of moisture around the chainplates, also a Spring undertaking. And I use the "no drip" stuffing in the box, the green teflon putty that can be tightened to not drip.
 
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TOMMY MCNAMARA

Leaks

I have a 450------1999 and the arch has been leaking into the aft port cabin since it was new and I cant find it,the dealer did nothing but caulk and it looks bad=========any thoughts on the matter
 
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Don Evans

Recently Found My Puzzling Leak

I sail an O'Day 25, and was always befuddled by the water found in my bilge from sail to sail. In having to retrieve a tool that fell to the back of the lazerette I crawled to the back (not easy on this model) and noticed the rad hose that connects my cockpit floor pan scupper to the transom throughhull had a sizeable hole in it and upon further study was just mush. It might have been the orignal pipe. I thought I knew every nook and cranny of my boat, but was humbled by this find. A replacement has kept the bilge bone dry since. Recently noticed a couple of drops under one of the portlights, a sure indication of future recaulking. Don Casey recommends rebedding all deck fixtures about every 10 years whether its leaking or not. Have others found this to be right for them? Don
 
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LaDonna Bubak - CatalinaOwners

No leaks!

Ok, well maybe that's not *entirely* true. But after the refit, the only leak I have is from the sail track. Accessing those nuts is so difficult it puts me past the point of caring about a half a cup a water per year! LaDonna
 
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Mike Harker

Leaky Mast Foot

With heavy rains, when the boat is not keeled over, the rain water puddles at the mast foot and drips into the salon. I have purchased a boot but, there are too many connections attached to the foot for the boot to fit. Any suggestions? Mike Harker - WanderLust
 
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web

The Chalk Trick

Ok - I didn't invent this but its sure handy. Go to your local humungo-store and buy children's sidewalk chalk. Then when you have areas that leak, but are having a hard time localizing, draw a line with the chalk on the bulkhead/sole whatever. The next time it rains, the area the water ran down will be been washed clean. It might take a second time to really pin point it, but it works. Excess chalk cleans up with a wet spounge. Justin - O'day Onwers' Web
 
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Bob England

Anchor locker drain

1989 H30G. I had a mysterious leak eventually traced to a hairline crack at the anchor locker drain. The deck and hull are seperate moldings, with the result that there is a seam in the "channel" that forms the drain. Technically, this could be considered part of the hull to deck joint. Natural flexing of the hull tends to open up this seam. This had caused considerable damage over the years to the plywood bulkhead under the V berth. Once identified, a little epoxy putty fixed the leak. Fixing the rotted bulkhead was another story.
 
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Rob Rich

Winches!

I just overhauled both winches, and found that the starboard side was allowing water to pass underneath it and into the starboard aft berth. What a pain. Easily fixed, however. Rob
 
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R.W.Landau

Manual bilge pump

On the 23 Paceship that I once owned, I put it in the water one spring. I stayed over night ( can't stand that first day of leaving the boat in the water) and noticed water in the bilge the following day. It took a frantic day of searching to find the source. The sink and the manual whale bilge pump were tied together and used one thru hull which actually exited the transom. The flapper valve in the pump would not stop water from coming thru the pump. When I motored ( she sat low when motoring) or had a following swell, the water came in the transom thru hull and right thru the pump into the bilge. I put a loop on that pump hose and changed the flapper valves. Justin,which color do you think works better? (The chaulk is a great idea. It does work good and lets you enjoy a good sail in the mean time) r.w.landau
 
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Jim Cook

Handrails on top and portholes

I'm getting ready to pull off both handrails on top of the cabin. Almost every bolt drips when it rains. My 4 large portholes (not the opening kind) all leak, but the two small ones in the head are OK. For a 27 yr old girl, I don't think that is too bad. I've already recaulked the port portholes and will do the starboard ones ASAP. The grabrails are being combined with a repaint job (while they are off) in the next 2-3 weeks. I'm adding grabrails inside (over the port settee and in the head) so you can hold on when you are heeling over. I want to extend the top bolts through the inside rails. Any suggestions to make the holes line up with the upper rails would be greatly appreciated. JimC "Dream Chaser"
 
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Kevin Whalen

I'm going to try air pressure

I have a slow leak in the aft cabin Ive been trying to locate with no luck. Some told me they used air pressure. They cut a plywood splash board for the companion way and put a hole in it that fit their leave blower. Closed up the cabin and started the blower and then put liguid soap around the near by fixtures, hardware, and deck joint until you see bubbles, which pinpont the leak. Who ever gave me this idea said it is what Hunter does at the factory. If it doesn't work I'll be stealing my kids chalk
 
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Sam

Finding Leaks

Chalk works but you might also try using a non permanent fine tip marker.Leak trickle will "wash away"some of the line and clean up is easy.
 
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Sean

leaks everywhere!

Working on my winter project of correcting my leaks. I currently have leaks from the windows (will be completely rebedding and while they are out applying window tint), swages, hatchboards, and last but not least, my compass. Ahh.....I just cann't wait to get started. I currently have a tarp covering the cabin to keep the rain out! You guys with dry boats .....should be happy for what you have. Sean
 
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Don Alexander

Air Pressure BEWARE

A standard cylinder type of vacuum cleaner can blow or suck 3.5 PSI to 5 PSI. Do the sums applying this pressure to your total deck area in square inches and it becomes clear that the hull deck bolts will tear through the deck moulding. (Rough estimate for a 37' boat is 49 TONS). Also the deck and hull would distort and very likely crack up. If contemplating internal air pressure make sure you either limit it or set up a water gauge by which you can see how much stress you are putting on the hull. If it did not leak before the test then sure as hell it would leak afterwards.
 
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Sam Kurtz

Wouldn't the Pressure be 3.5-5 PSI Period

Physics class was a long time ago, but I am thinking about how we pressurize airplanes and it takes a lot more than a shop vac to do it. They are also much greater in volume than any of the boats we are talking about. We always get a bunch of lawyers discussing the legal aspects where are the engineers and science teachers who can explain this one.
 
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Phil Teter

PSI

Sam: PSI is pounds per square inch. Multiply 3.5 to 5 pounds by the number of square inches to get the force involved.
 
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Craig Cody

Leaks? Everywhere!

Poorly maintained boats can leak everywhere. When I got my 1985 Catalina 36 two years ago, I unfastened and re-bedded every fitting on deck. Line organizers, turning blocks, winches, stanchions, chainplate covers, EVERYTHING. It was a real pain to do it, especially the inside and outside grabrails, but well worth it. Luckily, a previous owner had re-bedded the windows. Incidentally, it used to be that the only cure for leaking aluminum framed windows was cutting away the old seal and using silicon. Not any more. I just noticed that www.catalinadirect.com has new vinyl extrusion for the aluminum windows. I don't know how it works, but would be interested in hearing from anyone who has tried it. Anyway, one of our infrequent rains here in Southern California has found a leak that I didn't. My skylight hatch leaks. There is a gap in the sealing gasket of about 1/8" that never leaked during routine washing, but during a recent storm 35mph winds and a torrential rain found the gap. Next project, new gaskets on the overhead hatches.
 
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