Wheel Nut
- Thread starter wflowe2
- Start date
Why not contact Hunter since they are still in business? That is a good place to start and they will have the information he needs, if not the part.
Easy to measure - smear the threads 'lightly' with dirty engine oil, take a piece of light weight cardboard 'card stock' and firmly PRESS it onto the threads, physically count the thread indentations per inch on the card-stock, .... then visit your nearby industrial hardware supply.
Id prefer a brass/bronze nut for a stainless threaded shaft - so that it doesnt 'gall' and become 'stuck' on the shaft.
Id prefer a brass/bronze nut for a stainless threaded shaft - so that it doesnt 'gall' and become 'stuck' on the shaft.
We greased our nut/hub 16 years ago with bearing grease. The nut still moves freely. I got into the habit of checking it regularly.
If you can't find the nice expensive nut, then Rich's idea is great, all you need is a nut with the same threads. Get two and you can make a lock nut!
If you can't find the nice expensive nut, then Rich's idea is great, all you need is a nut with the same threads. Get two and you can make a lock nut!
Why don't you try borrowing one from a fellow sailor that has an Edson setup. I am guessing that they were the same on the YS & Edson.
??? Why not order the nut from the manufacturer Hunter gave him?? Using the part number he was given??
. Go to the Edison website. You can buy direct and they have a nice knurled nut the you will like
You do NOT need to spend the extra $$ on the knurled nut. If you slightly grease the shaft, the regular nut will always come off.
Hunter and Edson do not make 'nuts'; they buy nuts ... All commercially available nuts are machined and formed to a specific few thread profiles used by ALL machinists and manufacturers.
Asian made items in the past sometimes used the Whitworth System instead of SAE or 'metric' ... so be sure to count the threads per inch.
Rx: Find the exact thread diameter, count the number of 'threads per inch', go to a hardware store or industrial supply, etc. Choose bronze or brass so you can get it off, use an anticorrosion compound such as Tef-gel or lanolin on the threads to prevent 'seizing' of the nut to the shaft.
. Rich that's just NUTS. My steering wheel nut is plastic and has the word EDSON molded in. You can't get a capnut like that at a hardware store. Maybe you can get one that works but to bring it up to original condition get the real thing. Pay whatever it costs then install it and sit back beaming with pride over a job well done.
I think you mean British. All the old British Seagulls had Whitworth system fasteners. One reason they are hard to work on now
My mistake on the Merriman pedestal.. I guess they were gone by that time?
Whitworth. or more properly, British Standard Whitworth. I have encountered on old British stuff and some old stuff from India,, like bicycles. Interesting.. and thankfully almost all gone.. two standards are hard enough to deal with.
Whitworth. or more properly, British Standard Whitworth. I have encountered on old British stuff and some old stuff from India,, like bicycles. Interesting.. and thankfully almost all gone.. two standards are hard enough to deal with.
We used to call it British metric. I've still got some wrenches that were ground out on the open end.
And another reason that Lucas electronics are called The Prince of Darkness.
(Sorry comrades)..
And another reason that Lucas electronics are called The Prince of Darkness.
(Sorry comrades)..
Yes hell. I doubt it not one iota. Years ago I pushed Limey bikes and MG's all over ten counties. Part of the reason I defected, I've claimed mechanical asylum. The British are right up there with the Russians, pitiful mechanics and electrics. An SU carburetor? Puhlease...
And no, wrong guess, I'm not from England proper either..
And no, wrong guess, I'm not from England proper either..