So are we all, Ted. And the OP hasn't explained it either. Wonder if he ever will. If he bought 120V lamps for a 12V DC system, maybe he's "shy" by now.
Whats up with my interior bulbs?
- Thread starter freeheelbillie
- Start date
Sorry, I was just straightening my hair back out and getting the black stuff off my fingers
Kidding. Turns out the entire system is a little strange so I actually had the dealer reach out the the previous owner to work out some other details before I cook the system or myself.
Here's what I sent for some "insight" into what I am dealing with. Keep in mind this was a single owner boat since 1992, very well maintained and looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. However, it does not appear to be a standard set up when it comes to the electrical system. Also has a bow and a standard stern shore power hook up.
My main questions revolve around being shore power and the inverter/charger. It appears that when plugged into shore power from the bow that the refrigerator operates regardless if the 120v breaker is switched to the ON position. It also appears that the cabin plugs work in the same fashion. Strange the 120v panel switch does not appear to disconnect the boat form the shore power source when in the OFF position. Maybe I am missing something as a newbie though.
QUESTIONS
1. Is the only scenario for switching the 120v switch on the panel to ON when A/C or Heat is in use while on shore power?
2. How did he leave the boat for extended periods, possibly like below?
- Inverter/battery charger in charger position. I understand that I can disable the inverter and only have charger on.
- Battery switch off position?
-120v panel switch off position?
3. Two of the cabin lights (one forward of the NAV station and one forward for the galley sink) appear to be 120v and not 12vDC. Is that true? I ask this because LED replacement bulbs will not light in those two lamps, indicating a possible polarity issue or the inverter must be turned on.
4. How or did he at all use the inverter on shore power?
5. Is the male plug on the port side for the refrigerator? I assume this is for use while cruising...plugged in with inverter on. Is that the case?
6. Is the Refrigerator switch on the DC panel only for the converted ice box unit? Does it require the inverter to be on to function while cruising?
7. Is the macerator functional?
I AM I CORRECT?
1. While on shore power occupying the boat
- Battery dial to position 1 for House Batteries
- DC panel switch Cabin Lights and Water Pressure Shower pump ON
- AC 120v can remain in the OFF position UNLESS using A/C or Heat
- Inverter switched to charger mode only
- Refrigerator remains unplugged
- Converted ice box (if used) switched to ON on DC panel
2. I am correct in assuming that the batteries all continue to charge with the battery selector in the OFF position, 120v switch in the OFF position, shore power plugged in and inverter/charger in the charging only position?
3. Using refrigeration while under sail power only.
- Cord plugged in on port side
- Battery selector in position 1
- Inverter in ON position
4. Motoring
- Start engine position 2 on selector
- inverter ON if running refrigeration or other 110v
Kidding. Turns out the entire system is a little strange so I actually had the dealer reach out the the previous owner to work out some other details before I cook the system or myself.
Here's what I sent for some "insight" into what I am dealing with. Keep in mind this was a single owner boat since 1992, very well maintained and looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. However, it does not appear to be a standard set up when it comes to the electrical system. Also has a bow and a standard stern shore power hook up.
My main questions revolve around being shore power and the inverter/charger. It appears that when plugged into shore power from the bow that the refrigerator operates regardless if the 120v breaker is switched to the ON position. It also appears that the cabin plugs work in the same fashion. Strange the 120v panel switch does not appear to disconnect the boat form the shore power source when in the OFF position. Maybe I am missing something as a newbie though.
QUESTIONS
1. Is the only scenario for switching the 120v switch on the panel to ON when A/C or Heat is in use while on shore power?
2. How did he leave the boat for extended periods, possibly like below?
- Inverter/battery charger in charger position. I understand that I can disable the inverter and only have charger on.
- Battery switch off position?
-120v panel switch off position?
3. Two of the cabin lights (one forward of the NAV station and one forward for the galley sink) appear to be 120v and not 12vDC. Is that true? I ask this because LED replacement bulbs will not light in those two lamps, indicating a possible polarity issue or the inverter must be turned on.
4. How or did he at all use the inverter on shore power?
5. Is the male plug on the port side for the refrigerator? I assume this is for use while cruising...plugged in with inverter on. Is that the case?
6. Is the Refrigerator switch on the DC panel only for the converted ice box unit? Does it require the inverter to be on to function while cruising?
7. Is the macerator functional?
I AM I CORRECT?
1. While on shore power occupying the boat
- Battery dial to position 1 for House Batteries
- DC panel switch Cabin Lights and Water Pressure Shower pump ON
- AC 120v can remain in the OFF position UNLESS using A/C or Heat
- Inverter switched to charger mode only
- Refrigerator remains unplugged
- Converted ice box (if used) switched to ON on DC panel
2. I am correct in assuming that the batteries all continue to charge with the battery selector in the OFF position, 120v switch in the OFF position, shore power plugged in and inverter/charger in the charging only position?
3. Using refrigeration while under sail power only.
- Cord plugged in on port side
- Battery selector in position 1
- Inverter in ON position
4. Motoring
- Start engine position 2 on selector
- inverter ON if running refrigeration or other 110v
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OMG dude! I don't see how ANYone here can possibly answer these questions...Your boat obviously has a - well...somewhat ...unique electrical system. I think you need a local knowledgeable person with you on the boat who can go over everything and figure out what's going on there.BTW, one thing I can say for sure: NEVER move the batt selector switch while the engine is running!
I also strongly recommend these books on the subject:
https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848https://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mechanical-Electrical-Manual-Calder/dp/0071790330/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1476220178&sr=1-1&keywords=nigel+calder+boatowner's+mechanical+and+electrical+manual
I also strongly recommend these books on the subject:
https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848https://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mechanical-Electrical-Manual-Calder/dp/0071790330/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1476220178&sr=1-1&keywords=nigel+calder+boatowner's+mechanical+and+electrical+manual
Oops I copy and pasted from several emails, I am aware that you don't move the switch with engine running. The "- Upon starting move to position 1" wasn't meant to stay in the motoring section.OMG dude! I don't see how ANYone here can possibly answer these questions...Your boat obviously has a - well...somewhat ...unique electrical system. I think you need a local knowledgeable person with you on the boat who can go over everything and figure out what's going on there.BTW, one thing I can say for sure: NEVER move the batt selector switch while the engine is running!
I also strongly recommend these books on the subject:
https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848https://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mechanical-Electrical-Manual-Calder/dp/0071790330/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1476220178&sr=1-1&keywords=nigel+calder+boatowner's+mechanical+and+electrical+manual
Yes, unique...however it worked fro him and worked well for 24 years apparently. Just need him to lay it out for me so I don't spend hours and $$ figuring it out. I'll keep you all posted. I wasn't asking for anyone to figure it out from the email...just wanted you to see what I was dealing with. Appreciate all the comments though.
Haven't been back on the boat this week...I assume getting 12vDC bulbs will work
Here's the response form the previous owner. I still have follow up questions about the 120v switch not cutting power from the shore and leaving battery switched to ALL while off the boat. I'll post up as things come to light.
Regarding the questions, pls see as follows:
1) When the A/C or heat is used, both the shorepower 120 white switch and
the a/c/heat red switch must be in the On position.
2) When I was not using the boat, the boat was corded into the shorepower
pdestal at the dock. The battery switch was set to All position, and the
charger function was engaged (with the little red light on the inverter
control panel flashing.
3) All boat interior lights were 12 volt - nothing was 120. All cabin
lights were tied to the cabin lights breaker on the panel.
4) I never used the inverter while connected to shorepower...had no reason
to.
5) The refrig (where stove used to be) is connected to the galley outlet by
dedicated pwr cord. The refrig is both 12 volt and 120. When shorepower is
disconnected, the refrig reverts from 120 back to 12volt. Its operation has
nothing to do with the inverter. We only used the inverter when anchoring
in the North Channel. It worked quite well, I might add.
6) The cooler ice box unit is connected to the refrig switch on the
electrical panel. If the switch is on and the battery switch is to 1, 2, or
All, the unit will work. Again, it has nothing to do with the inverter.
Here's the response form the previous owner. I still have follow up questions about the 120v switch not cutting power from the shore and leaving battery switched to ALL while off the boat. I'll post up as things come to light.
Regarding the questions, pls see as follows:
1) When the A/C or heat is used, both the shorepower 120 white switch and
the a/c/heat red switch must be in the On position.
2) When I was not using the boat, the boat was corded into the shorepower
pdestal at the dock. The battery switch was set to All position, and the
charger function was engaged (with the little red light on the inverter
control panel flashing.
3) All boat interior lights were 12 volt - nothing was 120. All cabin
lights were tied to the cabin lights breaker on the panel.
4) I never used the inverter while connected to shorepower...had no reason
to.
5) The refrig (where stove used to be) is connected to the galley outlet by
dedicated pwr cord. The refrig is both 12 volt and 120. When shorepower is
disconnected, the refrig reverts from 120 back to 12volt. Its operation has
nothing to do with the inverter. We only used the inverter when anchoring
in the North Channel. It worked quite well, I might add.
6) The cooler ice box unit is connected to the refrig switch on the
electrical panel. If the switch is on and the battery switch is to 1, 2, or
All, the unit will work. Again, it has nothing to do with the inverter.
pretty standard operation. You shouldn't have any problem getting LED lights to work provided you go back to the original advice to check polarity.
It all depends on how it is wired.
You can arrange the wiring so that the switch is OFF and the batteries can still be charged.
Inverters never should work with shorepower available. An inverter is a second source of AC power and you should never have two sources of AC working at the same time.
What, no wiring diagram? You DO need to spend YOUR time figuring it out. You shouldn't have to spend a dime. If he didn't do a wiring diagram, then you should invest your time to trace every single wire on that boat, so YOU know what's happening. I don't care where you sail, it's a safety issue.
Good luck.
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