I read through the archives on the preferable jibsize, and people tend to get off the subject at hand. If one is going to keep the stay, and therefore keep the cutter rig, is the 135 ideal--the 150 just seems too big to me? If so, why? Is it for both decreasing weather-helm and increasing speed in ALL conditions(except extreme wind) and ALL points of sail. If the 135 performs better in all cases except 30+k it seems like a no-brainer. Also, it's unclear whether or not people have found that tacking chafes up the sail badly--is there something to cover or coat the shroud with that people have tried? Is there a case to be made for the original jib? Also, can anybody tell me the dimensions for the 135, or at least how to get them? Thanks Josh
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Josh are you talking about a Hunter 37C?
I have an approx 135 furling that I want to part with. It hangs up on the inner stay when tacking. I have a 110-20 that I prefer. I dont know how you could put anti chafe on the inner stay and still hoist the staysail. Scott
I have an approx 135 furling that I want to part with. It hangs up on the inner stay when tacking. I have a 110-20 that I prefer. I dont know how you could put anti chafe on the inner stay and still hoist the staysail. Scott
It depends
Really it does. What are the prevailing winds? Are you mostly racing, or mostly cruising? Which boat and rig do you have? The big gennies, 130 to 155 are unbeatable going closehauled to weather. That makes them a must for lots of races. At somewhere between 15 to 20 knots of wind, they are just the wrong sail, even with roller furling. And, because you can't sheet them far enough from the centerline, they are inefficient on a beam or broad reach, and running. Also, modern, fractional rigs especially those with no backstays (modern Hunters) are designed to have a huge main and small jib. A big genny may work, but that is not the design. We fly a 110 roller furling jib with an asymetrical spinnaker for cruising on Lake Erie. Once you crack off a close reach, the asymetric is far more efficient than a big genny. And it's easy to shift from the spinnaker (just drop the sock) to the jib (just unfurl it) when the wind picks up. And visa versa. We do that once or twice a day in variable summer conditions. I could add that this configuration is also popular on some modern racing boats. But they tend to carry an asymetric (or similar sails) for reaching, and a symetric spinnaker for running. We don't race more than once or twice a year, and we can rig our 130 for light air racing, or cruising close hauled in light air. David Lady Lillie '77 h27
Really it does. What are the prevailing winds? Are you mostly racing, or mostly cruising? Which boat and rig do you have? The big gennies, 130 to 155 are unbeatable going closehauled to weather. That makes them a must for lots of races. At somewhere between 15 to 20 knots of wind, they are just the wrong sail, even with roller furling. And, because you can't sheet them far enough from the centerline, they are inefficient on a beam or broad reach, and running. Also, modern, fractional rigs especially those with no backstays (modern Hunters) are designed to have a huge main and small jib. A big genny may work, but that is not the design. We fly a 110 roller furling jib with an asymetrical spinnaker for cruising on Lake Erie. Once you crack off a close reach, the asymetric is far more efficient than a big genny. And it's easy to shift from the spinnaker (just drop the sock) to the jib (just unfurl it) when the wind picks up. And visa versa. We do that once or twice a day in variable summer conditions. I could add that this configuration is also popular on some modern racing boats. But they tend to carry an asymetric (or similar sails) for reaching, and a symetric spinnaker for running. We don't race more than once or twice a year, and we can rig our 130 for light air racing, or cruising close hauled in light air. David Lady Lillie '77 h27
Here's another view
On my 79 37 cutter, I use Yankee cut 100 percent jibs. I do not race, but the boat will sail at over 6 knots, sometimes seven, with this rig, even with a reef in. I find the boat overpowered without a mainsail reef in higher winds (20 knots plus) and it actually loses speed due to the weather helm. The previous owners left a big lightweight sail (not a spinnaker) that is for very light wind on a downwind run, but in SF Bay so far I have never needed it. Rather than mess with a big Genoa I use all the sails most of the time, except when it kicks up. The staysail seems to provide that extra power, which is how it was designed. For this area, that serves my needs. Sanders (Marina Village, Alameda)
On my 79 37 cutter, I use Yankee cut 100 percent jibs. I do not race, but the boat will sail at over 6 knots, sometimes seven, with this rig, even with a reef in. I find the boat overpowered without a mainsail reef in higher winds (20 knots plus) and it actually loses speed due to the weather helm. The previous owners left a big lightweight sail (not a spinnaker) that is for very light wind on a downwind run, but in SF Bay so far I have never needed it. Rather than mess with a big Genoa I use all the sails most of the time, except when it kicks up. The staysail seems to provide that extra power, which is how it was designed. For this area, that serves my needs. Sanders (Marina Village, Alameda)
Josh, 110 here on Lake Michigan
I fly a 110 high clew Jib/Yankee on the furler and the Staysail here on Lake Michigan. I also have a 150 low clew deck sweeper from the previous owner and used it once for about 2 hours, it's been back in the sail bag since. As indicated by David, I also do switch over to an asymmetrical spinnaker in lite winds with a dousing sock. I ordered new sails this year and did have a slightly larger Yankee cut. I wanted to get a little more balance at the helm and went with a Yankee size that is used by other H37C owners with good success (check the archives, you will find more info and discussion on the subject) My new Yankee Dimensions: Foot: 18' Luff: 45' Leech: 36'3" The original Yankee dimensions: Foot: 16'10" Luff: 45'3" Leech: 34'10" Richard Rhapsodie '79 H37C
I fly a 110 high clew Jib/Yankee on the furler and the Staysail here on Lake Michigan. I also have a 150 low clew deck sweeper from the previous owner and used it once for about 2 hours, it's been back in the sail bag since. As indicated by David, I also do switch over to an asymmetrical spinnaker in lite winds with a dousing sock. I ordered new sails this year and did have a slightly larger Yankee cut. I wanted to get a little more balance at the helm and went with a Yankee size that is used by other H37C owners with good success (check the archives, you will find more info and discussion on the subject) My new Yankee Dimensions: Foot: 18' Luff: 45' Leech: 36'3" The original Yankee dimensions: Foot: 16'10" Luff: 45'3" Leech: 34'10" Richard Rhapsodie '79 H37C
To get your jib to tack......
past your inner forestay, you might be able to make several "disks" about 4 inches around and a half an inch thick that would "float" up with your staysail. I figure about 5 or 6 of these would do the trick and they would be cheap to make.
past your inner forestay, you might be able to make several "disks" about 4 inches around and a half an inch thick that would "float" up with your staysail. I figure about 5 or 6 of these would do the trick and they would be cheap to make.
Try Tape Dispenser Wheels
Believe it or not, I scavenged 4 tape dispenser wheels from a commercially available multi-tape dispenser and have them threaded onto my lifelines to help my racing Genoas 'jump' over the staunchions and life lines when tacking. I guess something like that could be threaded on the headstay for the staysail if the sail itself is a hank-on type. Then again, it might create hang-ups in raising or lowering the sail as well.
Believe it or not, I scavenged 4 tape dispenser wheels from a commercially available multi-tape dispenser and have them threaded onto my lifelines to help my racing Genoas 'jump' over the staunchions and life lines when tacking. I guess something like that could be threaded on the headstay for the staysail if the sail itself is a hank-on type. Then again, it might create hang-ups in raising or lowering the sail as well.
Tacking the yankee.
I'd have to agree with Richard and David on this subject Josh. Richard has the same yankee dimensions as my own. I have not had the tacking problem that I read about here. The other day while washing my two season yankee I checked carefully for chafing and found no signs. Is it because people are sailing in very light air and the clew hangs up? I tie my sheets on with a rather large bowline knot and still do not have the problem. When I tack I kind of let the jib backwind before I release the new windward sheet. It usually just snaps across. I can see where you could create the problem with an oversize jib. In that case you just made your cutter into a sloop. You may as well just remove the inner stay.
I'd have to agree with Richard and David on this subject Josh. Richard has the same yankee dimensions as my own. I have not had the tacking problem that I read about here. The other day while washing my two season yankee I checked carefully for chafing and found no signs. Is it because people are sailing in very light air and the clew hangs up? I tie my sheets on with a rather large bowline knot and still do not have the problem. When I tack I kind of let the jib backwind before I release the new windward sheet. It usually just snaps across. I can see where you could create the problem with an oversize jib. In that case you just made your cutter into a sloop. You may as well just remove the inner stay.
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