What's the trick?

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Rich M

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Nov 5, 2007
74
Hunter 28.5 Annapolis, MD
I have an 85 28.5 with a 2gm Yanmar that required the fuel pump to be replaced. With long arms and a mirror this is a reasonable task. However priming the system was very painful. I spent over 30 minutes with the little thumb pump on the fuel pump but barely got a trickle into the fuel line. There has got to be a better way. Any Suggestions?
 
Dec 2, 2003
1,637
Hunter 376 Warsash, England --
It is possible the cam which operates the pump was on its crest so the hand lever was hardly able to work the diaphragm.
Should this happen again just turn the engine half a rev and see if matters improve.
Others in your circumstances have fitted a squeeze bulb from an outboard remote tank in their fuel line so they can hand prime without using the engine's pump.
However, should there be any resistance in the pickup tube, you expose yourself to this bulb sucking flat and cutting off the fuel supply.
Also such items are not really intended for diesel.
And they are normally located in a position where they are very visible so any damage will also be visible and any leaks immediately spotted. This might not be the case with an inboard installation.
Also I don't know what ABS would make of such a system.

Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer chance. Good luck.
 

jtm

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Jun 14, 2004
313
Hunter 28.5 Dataw Island, SC
try this-
Make sure the cutoffs from the tank thru any racor to the engine is open.

Almost fill up the fuel filter cup with diesel and spin it on. leave the top bleeder screw open a little to allow the air out of the system. Open your compression levers and and push the start button a few seconds and let it pump the system thru - watch for the fuel to ooze out the filter bleeder screw. once that is oozing snug up the screw and then move on to bleeding each of the 2 injectors as they enter the block- just slightly loosen one at a time, run the UNcompressed levers so as the fuel hits the injector you can SNUG up- only takes a few moments AND MAKESURE YOU DON"T LET YOUR FINGERS GETDIRECTLY on the injector as the spray is under high pressure and is not good for your skin. USE a heavy rag and PROTECT YOUR EYES too.

Be carefull whenever you stick your arm/hangs in the engine box - there are pulleys and belts and bad things that can happen if your are not careful with flesh and clothing!
 
Feb 24, 2004
190
Hunter 290 Portland, Maine
That little thumb pump gave me problems too, until I learned the hard way - you can press it down so far (~1/4") and you'd think that was enough. But go ahead and push it down even further, and that's when the little pump does it's thing. Maybe you're already doing this, but I thought I was doing alright, except very little fuel came through the line. Pushing it down further, you can feel the friction and realize that the pump really isn't engaged until that final 1/8" is pushed.

Paul
 

Rich M

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Nov 5, 2007
74
Hunter 28.5 Annapolis, MD
Thanks for all the input. I opted for the Bulb and positioned it so that it is very visible every time I open the raw water seacock. I was just wondering what the Pro's do, cuz I can't believe if this were to be needed to be done while underway that it is realistically feasible.
 

Rich M

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Nov 5, 2007
74
Hunter 28.5 Annapolis, MD
JT:

Quick question:

I have opted for the bulb, bled the filters and run the engine. I have "attempted" to bleed the injectors, but get nothing! Yesterday took the boat out, got 10 minutes from the dock, she "loaded up and quit". Rebled the filters and started the engine. Again tried to bleed the injectors, got nothing, but it ran well enough for me to limp back to the slip. What could I be doing wrong?
 

jtm

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Jun 14, 2004
313
Hunter 28.5 Dataw Island, SC
These engines (Yanmar 2gmf) are very reliable and need two things to run- fuel and air.Get water into the system/fuel or starve it for air and it quits. In my case 25 yrs ago I was getting problems where it would quit after awhile. I went thru about 3 partial tank pump outs and ran a few months off a external fuel tank. Turned out the boat had "birth defect" that was unfortunately built into the intial design- since corrected. They had the buble box and fuel tank molded in side-by-side and then glassed them over with one panel.
Wrong-0 we eventually found that the seal tops of those molded in tanks/box was not perfect and each time I was eventually pumping my buble box exhaust water into the new clean fuel at the top seam. Hunter remedied that by having the dealer install separate poly tanks for each- no issues since.

So I can wonder if you have water in fuel(do you have a racor fuel filter with the see thru under bowl to observe any water build up?) - but then you do get started- right??? So when you conk out I assume the engine has gotten to temp or...... above temp???? At high engine temps the super heated air gets too thin and there's not enough for combustion- especially if you are doing more than just idling. At that point I wonder if your exhaust elbows are coked up and just backing your exhaust down to the point where your engine is being "constipated"- if you know what I mean.

Look me up in the Directory if you need further.
 
Jul 23, 2006
12
Hunter 28.5 Lake Lanier GA
jt, It sounds like it was a long long time ago when you had the issue with the water-lift muffler box/bubble box and fuel tank issue, but I am suddenly having that problem. Do you have any details as to how Hunter/dealer fixed the problem.
Thanks,
Rick
 
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