I was wondering if there is anything inside the engine mount shoulders or if this is another one of threaded into fiberglass things that I keep finding on my boat? Any ideas on reinforcing the shoulders?
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Henry Weber
holes for engine mounts
Ben, mine have wood beams inside the fiberglass shell. However, the threads from the lag bolts in the wood itself are stripped. On my rear mounts I used the next larger lag bolt and it seems to be holding ( be cautious because mine go right down to the inside surface of the hull). I plan to drill the holes out oversize, fill with epoxy, and then put the lag screw into the epoxy. Problem is the engine has to be moved to do it.
Ben, mine have wood beams inside the fiberglass shell. However, the threads from the lag bolts in the wood itself are stripped. On my rear mounts I used the next larger lag bolt and it seems to be holding ( be cautious because mine go right down to the inside surface of the hull). I plan to drill the holes out oversize, fill with epoxy, and then put the lag screw into the epoxy. Problem is the engine has to be moved to do it.
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Tim Schaaf
Hmmmmmmmm
Interesting question, and I am wondering if your installation may be different from mine? I have a 1980 model. The engine mounts themselves are lag bolted to a substantial length of wood on either side of the pan. These, in turn, have horizontal fasteners (probably lag bolts, too) that go into the vertical sides of the pan. By fiberglass shoulders, do you mean the sides of the pan? Or is there no wood visible in your boat? My engine is the original, a 2QM15 Yanmar, so if yours is different or if your boat has been repowered, I wonder if something has been changed. In my boat, the mount with the most vibration has always been port side forward, with starboard side forward a second. The lags on the port side forward did eventually come loose, but a much longer lag did the trick.I can't remember, since it has been awhile, but I don't think I increased anthing other than the length. Interestingly, the mounts themselves are not the standard Yanmar, which give much better vibration dampening. I have theorized that the extremely tight fit on the starboard side of the engine dictated that the mounts be less flexible than normal, to keep the engine from bumping into the right side of the engine compartment. It was not a cost saving, since the Yanmar mounts are cheaper.
Interesting question, and I am wondering if your installation may be different from mine? I have a 1980 model. The engine mounts themselves are lag bolted to a substantial length of wood on either side of the pan. These, in turn, have horizontal fasteners (probably lag bolts, too) that go into the vertical sides of the pan. By fiberglass shoulders, do you mean the sides of the pan? Or is there no wood visible in your boat? My engine is the original, a 2QM15 Yanmar, so if yours is different or if your boat has been repowered, I wonder if something has been changed. In my boat, the mount with the most vibration has always been port side forward, with starboard side forward a second. The lags on the port side forward did eventually come loose, but a much longer lag did the trick.I can't remember, since it has been awhile, but I don't think I increased anthing other than the length. Interestingly, the mounts themselves are not the standard Yanmar, which give much better vibration dampening. I have theorized that the extremely tight fit on the starboard side of the engine dictated that the mounts be less flexible than normal, to keep the engine from bumping into the right side of the engine compartment. It was not a cost saving, since the Yanmar mounts are cheaper.
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Ben Braden
No visible wood
I do have a 2qm20 and not a 15 but the shoulders look stock, completely flows with the pan, no visible wood at all, just lag bolts going straight down into the fiberglass shoulder holding the mount on. So what I was wondering is if there is wood inside that I could fill and redrill or if its just fiberglass that I need to set some bolt mounts in. Of course the only way I could truely find out is pulling the engine and cutting out the shoulders, unless anyone nows better?
I do have a 2qm20 and not a 15 but the shoulders look stock, completely flows with the pan, no visible wood at all, just lag bolts going straight down into the fiberglass shoulder holding the mount on. So what I was wondering is if there is wood inside that I could fill and redrill or if its just fiberglass that I need to set some bolt mounts in. Of course the only way I could truely find out is pulling the engine and cutting out the shoulders, unless anyone nows better?
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Joe Gooch
To remove the 2qm15 from the 1980 Hunter 33 is an experience that a person would want to do only once in a life time. I just replaced the block and it was a job. I would suggest that you use a small hydraulic jack under the engine and remove the engine mounts one at a time to repair the wood with epoxy ; you might put a hardwood dowell pin in the epoxy and drill a new hole in the hardwood dowell pin and then fit the lag screw to it. This way you will not disturb the alignment with the shaft too much at one time. Also you would not have to remove the engine--I don't think you really want to remove the engine unless it is absolutely necessary. Hope this helps.
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Joe Gooch
"Emgine Removal Necessary???"
After having replaced the block on my 2qm15, I do not recommend removing the engine unless absolutely necessary. It is a major job. To repair the engine mounts you could place a small hydraulic jack under the engine, remove the mounts one at a time, repair the wood , and replace the mount. To repair the wood you could drill out the hole and epoxy in a hardwood dowell pin and drill another hole for the lag screw ; be careful to drill the correct size for the size of screw. It will be close work but this way you would not have to remove the engine and would not disturb the shaft alignment unnecessarily. Good Luck!!
After having replaced the block on my 2qm15, I do not recommend removing the engine unless absolutely necessary. It is a major job. To repair the engine mounts you could place a small hydraulic jack under the engine, remove the mounts one at a time, repair the wood , and replace the mount. To repair the wood you could drill out the hole and epoxy in a hardwood dowell pin and drill another hole for the lag screw ; be careful to drill the correct size for the size of screw. It will be close work but this way you would not have to remove the engine and would not disturb the shaft alignment unnecessarily. Good Luck!!
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Ben Braden
Question
What I would really like to know is if anyone knows what is inside the 3/8" thick fiberglass shoulders. If there is wood inside the dowl and epoxy idea will work great but if it is open air then this would work very poorly. So I was wondering if anyone knew what was inside the fiberglass shoulders, wood or air?
What I would really like to know is if anyone knows what is inside the 3/8" thick fiberglass shoulders. If there is wood inside the dowl and epoxy idea will work great but if it is open air then this would work very poorly. So I was wondering if anyone knew what was inside the fiberglass shoulders, wood or air?
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Porter Claytor
Engine Alignment
I have a 80 H33 currently sailing on a trailer in the back yard. I intend to pull the engine and work on the whole deal. Ben, sorry I donb't have an answer but might later on. As for the alignment issue. If you disconnects their engine from the mounts for any reason and moves it, the alignment should be rechecked at a minimum. You should disconnect engine from the shaft to lift the engine which means an alignment is in order on return. Its your bearings though. I am an industrial Maintenance Training consultant and have taught alignment. Its important stuff, even if you don't hear noises down there you might be stressing the bearings unnecessarily. Porter Claytor S/V Cynara on the hard
I have a 80 H33 currently sailing on a trailer in the back yard. I intend to pull the engine and work on the whole deal. Ben, sorry I donb't have an answer but might later on. As for the alignment issue. If you disconnects their engine from the mounts for any reason and moves it, the alignment should be rechecked at a minimum. You should disconnect engine from the shaft to lift the engine which means an alignment is in order on return. Its your bearings though. I am an industrial Maintenance Training consultant and have taught alignment. Its important stuff, even if you don't hear noises down there you might be stressing the bearings unnecessarily. Porter Claytor S/V Cynara on the hard
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