What would you do; Quick-Easy or Hard but Right

[GorillaToast]

I have two projects coming up that require wiring to objects fitted to s/s railings - Bow Nav Lights, and Solar Panel.

The proper way to route the wiring for these is to remove the railings,drill up thru the bases, and then out near the fittings.

But I noticed on Maine Sail's Compass Marine tutorial on installing a solar panel that he ran his wiring outside the railing, held with wire ties. That method would certainly make things easier, although introducing yet another 2 holes in the deck that could someday leak. I would of course, epoxy the wire in the holes.

Understand, I'm not talking about a $100k yacht here, this is a $2k boat.

One of the reasons I'm reluctant to remove the railings, is that I just finished re-bedding them, before I decided to buy a solar panel, and move the nav light to the bow railing. I don't feel like re-re-bedding them. Ya know what I mean?

I guess what I'm looking for here is to be told to suck it up and do it right, or a few good reasons why it's okay to take the easy way out.

Thanks.

 

[dparilla]

Get a cable clam. Drill a new hole, and pass the wire down through the clam and hole. Then go sailing. That would be the best of both worlds. Then, whenever you have time to remove the rail you can reroute the wire. Of you feel like it, and seal up the old hole. Basically I would do what I could to get out on the water faster.

 

[RAD]

Or.....after coming out the deck with a cable cam you could drill a hole in the rail and fish the wire into the new openings, a string taped to a snake works well for easy retrieval or a chain (type used on a pull string porcelain light) and a magnet

 

[25yearslater]

You could also drill up through the deck and base if you have access and use RAD's chain method to route back from the light hole and pull it out the base inside with use of the magnet. I've also used nylon tubing to route wires and string as it makes a a great flexible fish.

 

[GorillaToast]

Thanks guys. Time is not a problem. Can't splash the boat here in Ohio for another 2 months because the reservoirs have all their docks out of the water for the winter.

I'm not concerned about fishing the wire thru. I've read about all the methods, and have an electricians fish tape, stiff string and magnet.

I'd like to be able to just drill up thru the deck into the base plates, but the stern one is centered on a space between the transom and the inner pan that is just big enough to get a socket extention into. I have a super long 1/4" drill bit, but it's not cobalt, and I can imagine what one of those would cost! And anyway, after taking the solar panel out to the boat, it just seems way too big for hanging off the stern rail, so I'm thinking of mounting it to the pop-top. Shading won't be a problem because if I get the same slip as last year, the bow will face due west. I'm ususally done sailing by noon so I can get to work, so plenty of afternoon sun should hit the panel.

The bases for the bow rail are up on the tiny forepeak, and I don't think I could get a drill up in there and be aligned straight with the middle of the base. I'd hate to accidentally drill thru the side of rail right down there by the base. I thought about the cable clam idea, but I don't want anymore things sticking up out of the deck up there.

But, I could just drill into the side of the rail near the base, come up thru the deck (and epoxy in that hole) and come out under the nav light fixture.

Maybe I'll try that on Monday.

Thanks.

 

[kenn]

One of the reasons I'm reluctant to remove the railings, is that I just finished re-bedding them, before I decided to buy a solar panel, and move the nav light to the bow railing. I don't feel like re-re-bedding them.

If the stanchion is a tube that inserts into a separate base, can you not simply loosen setscrews on enough of the stanchion bases, lift the railing up enough that the desired stanchion can be pivoted away from its base, then just drill down through the base? (I hope this makes sense) You wouldn't have to disturb the base to deck joint.

Absolutely don't let a problem like this hang you up; a new hole and some tie-wraps aren't the end of the world. However I'm sure you've already experienced the rush of satisfaction that comes from doing a boat task exactly to your own specification, regardless of irrelevant factors like money, time, practicality Good luck.

 

[DJN51]

Always ran exposed wires thru clear 1/4 in plastic tubing to fixtures.Protects against wear ,abuse.so you're actually clamping the tubing not wires against pulpit,stanchions.

 

[GorillaToast]

Always ran exposed wires thru clear 1/4 in plastic tubing to fixtures.Protects against wear ,abuse.so you're actually clamping the tubing not wires against pulpit,stanchions.

Now that's an idea to consider.
Thanks.

 

[GorillaToast]

If the stanchion is a tube that inserts into a separate base, can you not simply loosen setscrews on enough of the stanchion bases, lift the railing up enough that the desired stanchion can be pivoted away from its base, then just drill down through the base? (I hope this makes sense) You wouldn't have to disturb the base to deck joint.

Nope, tube and base are welded as one.

Absolutely don't let a problem like this hang you up; a new hole and some tie-wraps aren't the end of the world. However I'm sure you've already experienced the rush of satisfaction that comes from doing a boat task exactly to your own specification, regardless of irrelevant factors like money, time, practicality Good luck.

I'm not well off, nor retired yet. "Practicality", what's that?

I