Yesterday was a brilliant day on the lake... weather in the nineties, but a 20- 25 knot wind kept it cool. We sailed under jib alone and were achieving speeds of 4.5 - 5.5 knots. Then, in the middle of the lake, we watched in disbelief as the jib suddenly launched itself to port- the leeward side- and disappeared into the water. Seconds later, the mast fell down onto the deck. Luckily, we were on the high side of the boat and so no one got hit. Rescueing the jib- still attached to the entire roller furling assembly, I managed roll it back up and pull it back aboard where I discovered the pin attaching the furling to the bow had pulled free, but was still in one eye. So, after a few minutes of heavy breathing, we managed to put everything back together and were pleased to find we sustained no damage. However, I am greatly concerned about what caused this. I'm thinking that the problem may have been the clevis pin I was using, which was of the speed clip variety. Somehow, during this or another sail, it'd worked its way back to the point that it could no longer hold itself in the other eye of the support and pulled free. I'm thinking about using a 1/4 inch stainless bolt to attached it more securely and permanently. Does this sound feasible? Does it open me up for more problems that I can't foresee? Greg Emerson, if you're around, do you have any thoughts? Has this happened or nearly happened to anyone else?
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Quick Release pin-Heck no
As a dealer who has expereienced alot over the years, I do not recommend a quick stlye release pin for example a D tent ball pin release or the kind that has theprong end that falls down. Too much can go wrong and that is why I always recommend the old clevis pin with a cotter pin or circular pin. Jim Seamans was mentining a differnet method. Again, I will not recommend attaching the forestay with a quick release pin of any nature. Crazy Dave but smart on this issue
As a dealer who has expereienced alot over the years, I do not recommend a quick stlye release pin for example a D tent ball pin release or the kind that has theprong end that falls down. Too much can go wrong and that is why I always recommend the old clevis pin with a cotter pin or circular pin. Jim Seamans was mentining a differnet method. Again, I will not recommend attaching the forestay with a quick release pin of any nature. Crazy Dave but smart on this issue
Happened to me
This same thing happend to me two years ago on our H19. We suffered damage to the the mast footing and had to replace it. We were using a fast release pin to hold the front stay/rolling furl to the bow. Unknown to us the shackle at the base of the stay was spreading open which did not allow the pin to fully engage. So while under sail, down it came. I now use a shackle that fits to the outside of the shackle on the stay to keep it from spreading then use a clevis pin with a hitch pin to hold things together. I'll take of picture of it and post to photo fourm. Jim s/v Java
This same thing happend to me two years ago on our H19. We suffered damage to the the mast footing and had to replace it. We were using a fast release pin to hold the front stay/rolling furl to the bow. Unknown to us the shackle at the base of the stay was spreading open which did not allow the pin to fully engage. So while under sail, down it came. I now use a shackle that fits to the outside of the shackle on the stay to keep it from spreading then use a clevis pin with a hitch pin to hold things together. I'll take of picture of it and post to photo fourm. Jim s/v Java
D-mast
My H240 has a coiled cotter pin through the pin (clevis?)that attaches the furlilng jib to the bow. Ours is a 98 and we are in our 3rd season. I always check that cotter when releasing the bow and before departing. I also check the side stays to be sure they are still attached. A bolt would work, but a standard pin with cotter pin should be fine. Stay away from the quick release which probably cycled prematurely. b-e-c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l Joe
My H240 has a coiled cotter pin through the pin (clevis?)that attaches the furlilng jib to the bow. Ours is a 98 and we are in our 3rd season. I always check that cotter when releasing the bow and before departing. I also check the side stays to be sure they are still attached. A bolt would work, but a standard pin with cotter pin should be fine. Stay away from the quick release which probably cycled prematurely. b-e-c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l Joe
Mark, you're waisting time....
You were de-masted in the middle of a lake. You recovered the mast, re-rigged and went on your way with no dammage. Why aren't you out buying lotto tickets? Greg H23 Faster-
You were de-masted in the middle of a lake. You recovered the mast, re-rigged and went on your way with no dammage. Why aren't you out buying lotto tickets? Greg H23 Faster-
Quick Release Pin on Forestay
I sail a 260, but I believe I have the same forestay attachment as a 240. Prior to this, I had a Seaward 19. Because I have to motor under a 26" vertical clearance bridge before I can raise sails, I have to raise and lower the mast on the water. I agree with the advice for a cotter pin, but when you are releasing the forestay form the bow, on the water, every extra piece you work with is one more piece to go overboard. I've been using quicl release pins for about five years now, and have never had a problem. However, I use an extra-long pin so that there is room for movement well before the detent gets to the fitting. For example, on my H260, I use a 2" pin, so there is plenty of pin sticking out on either side. If you are only raising and lowering the mast on the trailer, go for the extra security. But, if you have to do it on the water, like me, this is an option. Ray Trombino Sand Dollar
I sail a 260, but I believe I have the same forestay attachment as a 240. Prior to this, I had a Seaward 19. Because I have to motor under a 26" vertical clearance bridge before I can raise sails, I have to raise and lower the mast on the water. I agree with the advice for a cotter pin, but when you are releasing the forestay form the bow, on the water, every extra piece you work with is one more piece to go overboard. I've been using quicl release pins for about five years now, and have never had a problem. However, I use an extra-long pin so that there is room for movement well before the detent gets to the fitting. For example, on my H260, I use a 2" pin, so there is plenty of pin sticking out on either side. If you are only raising and lowering the mast on the trailer, go for the extra security. But, if you have to do it on the water, like me, this is an option. Ray Trombino Sand Dollar
Bridge
Responding to Ray, I had a client who purchased a 23.5 from me and the boat was at Aquia Harbor. It is a pain going under the railroad bridge. He use to have a quick release but nearly lost the mast when tthe quick release came off suddenly. I do not recommend it but if using it, secure the pin with a teather so it cannot come out. Crazy Dave
Responding to Ray, I had a client who purchased a 23.5 from me and the boat was at Aquia Harbor. It is a pain going under the railroad bridge. He use to have a quick release but nearly lost the mast when tthe quick release came off suddenly. I do not recommend it but if using it, secure the pin with a teather so it cannot come out. Crazy Dave
Hey Jim
Just saw your pictures in the photo forum. I like the idea- especially after what happened Saturday. I (actually my wife) would love the extra security. Do you happen to know what size shackle you used? Where did you get it? Did it already have the cotter pin?
Just saw your pictures in the photo forum. I like the idea- especially after what happened Saturday. I (actually my wife) would love the extra security. Do you happen to know what size shackle you used? Where did you get it? Did it already have the cotter pin?
Tom, just saw your request
Most of the shackles I already had in my toolkit. I had to purchase the pin and hitchpin. If I remember I used the existing pin to size one long enought to go through. The outside shackle is heavy duty and will probably need to be drilled out on one side since it was for a screw in type pin. Good Luck.
Most of the shackles I already had in my toolkit. I had to purchase the pin and hitchpin. If I remember I used the existing pin to size one long enought to go through. The outside shackle is heavy duty and will probably need to be drilled out on one side since it was for a screw in type pin. Good Luck.
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