H31 Will be removing and sealing fixed ports this weekend, but uncertain as to the best sealant to use. Also, any installation tips are appreciated. Thanks much....Gary
- Status
Dow Corning 795
That is what I used. A little hard to locate but it really sticks. Takes a long time to set up so plan for a day or two of some kind of clamping if there are no screws. I used a couple of sand bags tied from one side to the other. A few rubber spacers are a good idea too if you haven't done this. Ask a window guy about that.
That is what I used. A little hard to locate but it really sticks. Takes a long time to set up so plan for a day or two of some kind of clamping if there are no screws. I used a couple of sand bags tied from one side to the other. A few rubber spacers are a good idea too if you haven't done this. Ask a window guy about that.
Hunter Marine sells it.
Gary: Hunter Marine carries the DC795. I think that there price is less than most retail outlets too.
Gary: Hunter Marine carries the DC795. I think that there price is less than most retail outlets too.
GE Black Silcone
GE black silcone worked for me, sets up in a day and $3.00 a tube. Two seasons and no leaks.
GE black silcone worked for me, sets up in a day and $3.00 a tube. Two seasons and no leaks.
sealant
DC 795 is a neutral-cure silicone sealant that is as tough as such things get. It was developed to seal expansion joints in precast concrete buildings. Far superior to acid cure silicone. Hope this helps. Regards JIm
DC 795 is a neutral-cure silicone sealant that is as tough as such things get. It was developed to seal expansion joints in precast concrete buildings. Far superior to acid cure silicone. Hope this helps. Regards JIm
Dow 995 Product Data Sheet
Hunter uses Dow 795 on their production line but according to the Northwest Dow factory rep Dow 995 is a better product for this purpose. It's what is used on skyscraper glazing with high wind loads. Availability: either contact Dow Corning at: Dow Corning Corporation Midland, MI 48686 Phone: 800-248-2481 or visit their web site and go the "How to Buy/find a distributor" route. http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/product_finder/pf_products.asp?searchfor=995&prod=02122197&type=PROD http://www.dowcorning.com/ Recommendations re installation: 1. Clean up all the removed sealant to prevent the pieces from sticking to your antiskid deck. 2. Mask off the area not to receive sealant 3. Clean-up with stove alcohol. 4. Wear old clothing or paper coveralls, have plenty of paper towles and Kleenex available and, if possible, have your significant other help pass you stuff. Have a garbage bag at the ready for disposing of paper. The sealant GETS ON EVERYTHING! And most important, don't yell at your helper
5. The sealant "skins over" very quickly so get the surface finished as soon as possible. Remove the masking tape within a few minutes of finishing up. If you wait longer the tape can "lift up" some of the sealant at the finished edge. 6. Important: only "butt-seal" the edges (per the Technical Data Sheet and Dow rep), don't "bed" the skylights/windows because it will be very difficult to get them out again. See how Hunter did it when you remove the old items or ask them how to do it. Hunter used "bump-ons" on the skylights of the newer boats. These are spacers about 1-mm thick that act as spacers. That's all I can think of at the moment.
Hunter uses Dow 795 on their production line but according to the Northwest Dow factory rep Dow 995 is a better product for this purpose. It's what is used on skyscraper glazing with high wind loads. Availability: either contact Dow Corning at: Dow Corning Corporation Midland, MI 48686 Phone: 800-248-2481 or visit their web site and go the "How to Buy/find a distributor" route. http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/product_finder/pf_products.asp?searchfor=995&prod=02122197&type=PROD http://www.dowcorning.com/ Recommendations re installation: 1. Clean up all the removed sealant to prevent the pieces from sticking to your antiskid deck. 2. Mask off the area not to receive sealant 3. Clean-up with stove alcohol. 4. Wear old clothing or paper coveralls, have plenty of paper towles and Kleenex available and, if possible, have your significant other help pass you stuff. Have a garbage bag at the ready for disposing of paper. The sealant GETS ON EVERYTHING! And most important, don't yell at your helper
5. The sealant "skins over" very quickly so get the surface finished as soon as possible. Remove the masking tape within a few minutes of finishing up. If you wait longer the tape can "lift up" some of the sealant at the finished edge. 6. Important: only "butt-seal" the edges (per the Technical Data Sheet and Dow rep), don't "bed" the skylights/windows because it will be very difficult to get them out again. See how Hunter did it when you remove the old items or ask them how to do it. Hunter used "bump-ons" on the skylights of the newer boats. These are spacers about 1-mm thick that act as spacers. That's all I can think of at the moment.I found a DC distributor....
in Pensacola FL which is a hop and skip from here. Though the specs don't mention a marine application, both 795 & 995 will probably both be suitable. However, after reading the archives on this site about leaking fixed ports, several have found that it wasn't the fixed ports leaking, but the handrail was the source with water running down and coming out the port. I think to be safe, I should start with the handrails and then monitor. I remember the PO saying that he resealed the fixed ports but they were still leaking. I assume that the DC stuff is OK for the handrail....correct? Thanks......Gary
in Pensacola FL which is a hop and skip from here. Though the specs don't mention a marine application, both 795 & 995 will probably both be suitable. However, after reading the archives on this site about leaking fixed ports, several have found that it wasn't the fixed ports leaking, but the handrail was the source with water running down and coming out the port. I think to be safe, I should start with the handrails and then monitor. I remember the PO saying that he resealed the fixed ports but they were still leaking. I assume that the DC stuff is OK for the handrail....correct? Thanks......Gary
....and the cross member.
Gary: There is also a problem with water entering the mast step and migrating out across the crossmember too. We replaced our hand rails with S.S., so this was never a problem. Also if you get a lot of water on the companionway hatch you can have water going many places.
Gary: There is also a problem with water entering the mast step and migrating out across the crossmember too. We replaced our hand rails with S.S., so this was never a problem. Also if you get a lot of water on the companionway hatch you can have water going many places.
Yes Steve....
I have read all of the posts in the archives between you and others discussing the mast leak issue. I am planning to unstep the mast as soon as the hurricane repairs at home are done. Haven't considered the companionway much. I have a leak at the bottom of the companionway on the counter which I'm chasing too. Thanks, and any other ideas on this is appreciated.....Gary
I have read all of the posts in the archives between you and others discussing the mast leak issue. I am planning to unstep the mast as soon as the hurricane repairs at home are done. Haven't considered the companionway much. I have a leak at the bottom of the companionway on the counter which I'm chasing too. Thanks, and any other ideas on this is appreciated.....Gary
- Status