When I have my refrigerator on, the refrigeration motor runs almost continuously - 20 seconds on, 20 seconds off. I tried the dollar bill test to check the quality of the seal on the refrigerator door and I flunk. I can pull the dollar bill out = inadequate seal. I've heard that many Hunter suffer from this. What's the best solution?
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Jim Beam
common problem
Id be willing to bet that there are areas that the gasket isn't even touching. There is another simple test that I use all the time. Take some hand soap like joy or dawn or something somewhat thick. Put a thin layer on the entire gasket. Close the lid. Then open the lid. Look to see where there is soap (or lack of) on the lip where the gasket should seat. In many cases the rear of the lid is the biggest problem because the hinge was not screwed in at a low enough spot. In other words you may have to lower the hinge. The other problem could be that the front latch mechanism is not low enough. You should have a reasonable amount of downforce to secure the lid and ensure a tight gasket. Try the test then let us know the outsome. Dont use to much soap. Use just enough to wet the surface if there is contact between gasket and seeling edge.
Id be willing to bet that there are areas that the gasket isn't even touching. There is another simple test that I use all the time. Take some hand soap like joy or dawn or something somewhat thick. Put a thin layer on the entire gasket. Close the lid. Then open the lid. Look to see where there is soap (or lack of) on the lip where the gasket should seat. In many cases the rear of the lid is the biggest problem because the hinge was not screwed in at a low enough spot. In other words you may have to lower the hinge. The other problem could be that the front latch mechanism is not low enough. You should have a reasonable amount of downforce to secure the lid and ensure a tight gasket. Try the test then let us know the outsome. Dont use to much soap. Use just enough to wet the surface if there is contact between gasket and seeling edge.
I doubt that it is entirely the seal.
John: I doubt that this is entirely a seal problem. One of the things that we do is sometimes place a damp towel over the box lid. If this changes you cycling, you may be on to something. Does you lid have any seal on it at all? If not just go to Home Depot, Lowes etc. and look for their door/window insulation. They have some that is in the shape of a 'D' or a 'P' (we used the P shape). If you are going to put a piece on the box and another on the lid, you will want to get the smallest size available. This will keep the lid as level as possible with the counter top. The stuff has a self sticking tape back. Just measure, cut, peel and stick. Made a difference in our box not frosting nearly as much.
John: I doubt that this is entirely a seal problem. One of the things that we do is sometimes place a damp towel over the box lid. If this changes you cycling, you may be on to something. Does you lid have any seal on it at all? If not just go to Home Depot, Lowes etc. and look for their door/window insulation. They have some that is in the shape of a 'D' or a 'P' (we used the P shape). If you are going to put a piece on the box and another on the lid, you will want to get the smallest size available. This will keep the lid as level as possible with the counter top. The stuff has a self sticking tape back. Just measure, cut, peel and stick. Made a difference in our box not frosting nearly as much.
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Gary
gaskets
Address the gasket problem. A good seal will lower your amp consumption and lessen the need for defrosts, but the short cycles may be caused by the thermostat capillary tube touching the evaporator somewhere other than between the two mounting plates. Make sure the capillary tube is away from the freezer unit.
Address the gasket problem. A good seal will lower your amp consumption and lessen the need for defrosts, but the short cycles may be caused by the thermostat capillary tube touching the evaporator somewhere other than between the two mounting plates. Make sure the capillary tube is away from the freezer unit.
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Les Blackwell
Gaskets not necessarily the only problem
Gaskets may not be your only problem. We found a major void in the back of the frige and the freezer up under the back lip (outboard) of the units. We had to use form to fill the void. Our gaskets were also not well installed. I had a freezer guy do the job but I think anyone could do it. Materials available from Home Deport, etc. We cut the running time in half or more and the frost to almost nothing. I believe we will defrost about twice a year now. I would recommend running the freezer all winter long if you leave your boat in the water in stead of shutting it down. It will last longer.
Gaskets may not be your only problem. We found a major void in the back of the frige and the freezer up under the back lip (outboard) of the units. We had to use form to fill the void. Our gaskets were also not well installed. I had a freezer guy do the job but I think anyone could do it. Materials available from Home Deport, etc. We cut the running time in half or more and the frost to almost nothing. I believe we will defrost about twice a year now. I would recommend running the freezer all winter long if you leave your boat in the water in stead of shutting it down. It will last longer.
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Peter Roach
If you have an AB
Refrig, give them a call. It could be your control unit. They will give you a quick test that can be done with an Ohmn meter to determine if it is your problem. They are really helpful.
Refrig, give them a call. It could be your control unit. They will give you a quick test that can be done with an Ohmn meter to determine if it is your problem. They are really helpful.
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john cogan
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