What to do above the water line???

Dil

.
Jul 13, 2020
57
Hunter 30T Neptune
I am getting ready to redo the bottom of my 1991 Hunter 30, there is a lot of info on this and products to concider, In looking and googling I don't see much about what to do above the water line should I clear coat it with a barrier epoxy or is that just a waste? Complete newbie to fiberglass repair and maintenance. What are all your opinions?
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,405
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
Clear coat with a “barrier epoxy” of the gelcoat above the water line?
I think you are confusing how to protect the hull below the WL with the topsides gelcoat. Just wash, polish depending on how shiny you want it and then wax to protect it. Barrier coating is typically used below the WL to prevent water penetration by osmosis.
 
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Jan 7, 2011
5,525
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I am getting ready to redo the bottom of my 1991 Hunter 30, there is a lot of info on this and products to concider, In looking and googling I don't see much about what to do above the water line should I clear coat it with a barrier epoxy or is that just a waste? Complete newbie to fiberglass repair and maintenance. What are all your opinions?
No need typically to put barrier coat above the waterline…that is really to create a barrier to the hull immersed in the water all of the time.

If the hull gel coat is dull, or if it was painted and now faded, you can do some things to improve the looks…clean, polish, wax gel coat or wash and wax a painted hull. if it is really bad, you could repaint it. But those are primarily cosmetic…may help with some UV protection, but mostly cosmetic.

Greg
 
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Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,187
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
I am getting ready to redo the bottom of my 1991 Hunter 30, there is a lot of info on this and products to concider, In looking and googling I don't see much about what to do above the water line should I clear coat it with a barrier epoxy or is that just a waste? Complete newbie to fiberglass repair and maintenance. What are all your opinions?
Hey Dil, here's a link to "The West Advisor" This is a perfect resource for boat owners that come across new problems or challenges. There's so much to learn, you can save yourself a lot of time by checking in there to get concise, authoritative explanations on all aspects of boat ownership. Add the link to your favorites list if you don't already have it. good luck. Oh, btw, paint the bottom. Clean and wax the topsides.
 
May 27, 2004
2,048
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
The OP may be thinking of the area just above the waterline that will need protecting,
not the entire freeboard.
 
Apr 11, 2020
788
MacGregor 26s Scott's Landing, Grapevine TX
Unless there is some structural or cosmetic issue on the area above the waterline, simply keeping up with typical gel coat maintenance is your best bet. As mentioned, there is no need for a barrier coat in areas above the waterline. Using a product designed to remove oxidation is a yearly off-season chore for me, followed by a coat of UV-protective wax. The boot stripe will often require special attention as water spots and discoloration from oxidation are more pronounced there.

IMO, adding anything on top of the gel coat doesn't eliminate the need for maintenance, just changes it from one material to another. Also, my experience with clear coats on a white surface is that even when freshly applied, they are not perfectly clear and can result in an uneven appearance to the finish.
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,037
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
redo the bottom of my 1991 Hunter 30
Dil
What is the problem for the bottom? Why do you think it needs a "ReDo"?

What are you concerns of the top side?
(topside is the area of the hull above the water line and below the hull/deck joint).
 

Dil

.
Jul 13, 2020
57
Hunter 30T Neptune
down below I have rust at the heel joint and minor rust blisters all over the iron keel the rest of the bottom looks good no flaking nothing came off when I pressure washed on top I do have some cracking I did pick up a gel coat repair kit for the larger ones just was not sure if anything was needed over the gelcoat repair other than sanding and waxing
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,037
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Very sensible query.
Regarding the keel. Living in NJ, I assume you take it out of the water every year. Is it looking the same as last year? What you describe sounds like last years paint, did not have a solid surface to attach. Would account for the rust, blisters, flaking paint. For paint to seal out water you need a clean solid surface. The preparation is more important than the painting. Paint on a day when the temperature is above the application minimum and not raining.

Check out Andy’s videos at Boatworks Today on YouTube. He does a great job of explaining how to address gelcoat cracks.
 
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Sep 24, 2018
3,356
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
nothing came off when I pressure washed on top
Never pressure wash a boat. It damages or eliminates the sealant used under deck fittings. There's easily 100 holes on the deck of a sailboat. Rebededding (resealing) is a very time consuming project
 
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Dil

.
Jul 13, 2020
57
Hunter 30T Neptune
I use a small electric pressure washer and don't get to close to the surface the rust spots are new not there last year the rust on the keel connection I am guessing came from getting towed off the sand down by old Barney last summer I missed a bouy and they dragged me over the sand berm where they dreged the chanel a few years back I think the g flex cracked at the connection allowing water infiltration however when chipping away at the rust on the connection it is rather thick scale and think it is a lot of build up if it is from last summer wouldn't expect to knock 1/4 3/8" scale out of it for that short of a time frame
 
Jun 9, 2008
1,801
- -- -Bayfield
It seems to me there is some confusion here. The hull, for practical purposes, has two portions. The part above the waterline and the part below the waterline. Below the waterline, an antifouling paint is applied to keep fouling of algae, grass and mussels and barnacles, etc. depending on where you sail. To prevent blisters, or to repair blisters below the waterline is when one would use an epoxy water barrier coat between the hull fiberglass and the antifouling paint. You mention you have no blisters, but your cast iron keep is rusting. That needs to be cleaned as best as you can and primed with a primer designed for steel. Then, if you need to do any fairing to make it smooth, you trowel on some epoxy fairing compound . Then apply antifouling paint of your choice.. Which paint? That is another topic cover already by me and others so you can search for that or ask.
Above the waterline the boat has bare gel coat, which was applied inside the hull as the first step in laminating the hull with fiberglass. That, along with the shear and waterline stripes are gelcoat. After being exposed to the sun, the gelcoat can oxidize and become dull. The first thing to try is buffing it out with a power buffer and a gelcoat rubbing compound. That hopefully brings the hull back to a shine in which case you would apply a good wax for the sun to chew on rather than your gelcoat. If your hull is so oxidized so that buffing it out does not bring up a shine, you can carefully wet sand the hull thoroughly and then buff out the hull. This is very intensive work. If that doesn't do the trick, then repainting is the next best solution. There are DIY paint formulations for the boat owner, or you can hire it done by a professional.
Good luck.
 
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Jan 7, 2011
5,525
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
It seems to me there is some confusion here. The hull, for practical purposes, has two portions. The part above the waterline and the part below the waterline. Below the waterline, an antifouling paint is applied to keep fouling of algae, grass and mussels and barnacles, etc. depending on where you sail. To prevent blisters, or to repair blisters below the waterline is when one would use an epoxy water barrier coat between the hull fiberglass and the antifouling paint. You mention you have no blisters, but your cast iron keep is rusting. That needs to be cleaned as best as you can and primed with a primer designed for steel. Then, if you need to do any fairing to make it smooth, you trowel on some epoxy fairing compound . Then apply antifouling paint of your choice.. Which paint? That is another topic cover already by me and others so you can search for that or ask.
Above the waterline the boat has bare gel coat, which was applied inside the hull as the first step in laminating the hull with fiberglass. That, along with the shear and waterline stripes are gelcoat. After being exposed to the sun, the gelcoat can oxidize and become dull. The first thing to try is buffing it out with a power buffer and a gelcoat rubbing compound. That hopefully brings the hull back to a shine in which case you would apply a good wax for the sun to chew on rather than your gelcoat. If your hull is so oxidized so that buffing it out does not bring up a shine, you can carefully wet sand the hull thoroughly and then buff out the hull. This is very intensive work. If that doesn't do the trick, then repainting is the next best solution. There are DIY paint formulations for the boat owner, or you can hire it done by a professional.
Good luck.
And the part you walk on (the deck)….i think that is what @Project_Mayhem is referring to when he said…don’t power-wash.

Greg
 
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