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Classic
What to do about this corroded through-hull fitting?
- Thread starter saltyfriends
- Start date
Classic
I would not hammer it in. Simply press it in by hand. Those wood plugs expand and will not come out. (On second thought, that expanding wood might be too much force). Maybe it would be better to use a soft plastic plug such as the sta plug Sta-Plug Emergency Plug - Mini (pkg 2)
By bracing I actually should have said "protecting" You have no reason to touch or manipulate the valve.
What I suggest is a couple blocks of foam taped like a collar and placed around the valve and pipe. Just to protect it from any cannon balls breaking loose from their storage rack (argh, funny)... anyway something easy to put together, maybe towels or something to absorb the shock if it was to get hit.
That's on the inside. But the pipe, currently seems secure, so don't mess with it. However, you can take a precaution to prevent water coming into the boat by plugging the hole from the outside. NOT by BANGING a plug into the hole, because you don't know about the integrity of the through hull. No what I am suggesting is to insert a wooden dowel or plastic rod into the hole until it seats on the valve, or whatever (an elbow perhaps),.. cut to length, pack some polysulfide sealant into the hole also coating the plug. Slip it into the hole and just leave it. It will cure completely in a few days, but it will be effective immediately. These types of sealants will cure underwater, that's why the use them on boats. This repair does not change your existing problem, it adds a layer of protection to it. Anyway. the only pressure will be the water pushing against the plug, which will be the same forces on the same part of the valve that exists now, If you like you can smooth a little cap of the sealant over the repair to make cleaning the hull easier..,whatever pleases you. Remember, no banging... let nature take care of keeping the plug in place. The sealant is flexible, almost rubber like, and it can be painted.
At some point you'll want to make a more formal repair. What I described is more like an emergency repair.... since it doesn't require hauling the boat out to do fiberglass work. Plenty of hole repair info on youtube. The plug and sealant fix is fast, cheap and secure.
Lots of marinas have boat stands they can put your boat on so it doesn't have to stay in the slings.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,360
"Hmm like a half haul-out?"
Ask the Marina if you can be pulled as the last boat hauled. Left in the slings for the night, and then will be the first boat back in the AM. I have done that. You get the evening hours, and if the yard is lighted, you can work til morning. Have all the gear needed ready. Removal and replacement of a through-hull and valve should take less than 2 hours. 4 hours if you dink about and question your actions, yet muddle through. The process can easily be done while hanging overnight.
Ask the Marina if you can be pulled as the last boat hauled. Left in the slings for the night, and then will be the first boat back in the AM. I have done that. You get the evening hours, and if the yard is lighted, you can work til morning. Have all the gear needed ready. Removal and replacement of a through-hull and valve should take less than 2 hours. 4 hours if you dink about and question your actions, yet muddle through. The process can easily be done while hanging overnight.
A PVC cap or solo cup fiberglassed in, will provide additional protection without a haul out and can be done in less than two hours including setup and cleanup. It also doesn't put additional stress on the existing valve. It will take 10-15 minutes to remove the cup/cap. I suggest a 5"+ cap because it's wider and you wont have to grind any glass away after removal, just cut it out with an oscillating tool. If you do something that's not as wide, you'll have to grind back to the hull add a backing plate
