What NOT to buy your favorite skipper - EVER

[Stu Jackson]

SATAN’S GLUE

(3M 5200)

and

SATAN’S GOOP

(silicone – except for Beckson ports)

These two materials should be banned from sale to all unsuspecting mariners!



It took me 45 minutes to clean this little chainplate cover.


ARRRGGGGGH

 

[Mark Maulden]

Geez Stu, if I didn't know any better, I'd say you have an S2!! I put mine on a wire wheel and went from there. So far, Maines tape is doing well although no real compression....

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Nothing wrong with 5200-in it's place. It is, after all, an adhesive, NOT a caulk

Silicone is not allowed on board my boats. Period

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

It took me 45 minutes to clean this little chainplate cover.


ARRRGGGGGH

Acetylene torch not working

 

[centerline]

the problem with either product is that they seem to stick better in places that its not so important, more so than they do in the area that it needs to stick good...

a little bit of heat will let the 5200 loosen its grip, and for something small like the chain plate bezel, let it soak in gasoline (or ether is best) for about 20-30 minutes and the silicone will soften and come free.

and you would be surprised and impressed how fast a small fine stainless grill or welding brush will remove the silicone and 5200. its no work at all...

the photos are of when i repaired the chainplate leaks on the 25... once i scraped away the bulk of it, i used the wire brush to clean it the rest of the way... it does an excellent job of it.
and i suspect the reason the previous owner couldnt get it to seal very long (at least 4 layers of various products), is that the hole in the deck that the chainplate protrudes thru was too big... it allowed the chainplate to flex too much in the hole and breaking the seal.... i filled the gaps on both sides with epoxy putty to stop the movement, then used 4000UV to seal it.
no more movement and no more leak...

 

[jibes138]

Really nice looking putty knife you have there Stu :>)

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Silicon & bananas should never be allowed on boats.

Silicon is great at sticking onto itself & to areas you're trying to clean.
First of all, in exterior uses, silicone shrinks & pulls away from surfaces used on. All except that last coating that is painstaking to remove.

I also don't use 5200 above the waterline & nowhere on deck for fitting that need rebidding from time to time. I have found that weather & UV dries out 5200, thus, it hardens. You can tell by the cracks/splits on the edges. Great for bedding stuff inside below the waterline where you NEVER have to remove it . Also, this stuff is a bear to remove.

As for the bananas, it was a superstition of mariners for a few centuries. To tell you a secret, I like to buck the rules & I eat bananas onboard.........SHH, "Remember, dead men tell no tales".

CR

 

[Chief RA]

Acetone works to soften and release silicone. Whatever solvent used as the curing agent is what to use to release it. Chief

 

[woodster]

As for the bananas, it was a superstition of mariners for a few centuries. To tell you a secret, I like to buck the rules & I eat bananas onboard.........SHH, "Remember, dead men tell no tales".

CR

Ron just don't throw the peels on the deck and you will be fine man....

 

[rgranger]

... I put mine on a wire wheel ...

Mark beat me to it. I like the Kobalt wire wheels. I've polished some old rusty metal until it shined like new. Great tool to have if you own an old boat.

 

[gldndrm]

If you wire brush anything that will go back on the boat, it is best to use stainless steel wire brushes, or, you have to be absolutely careful to get 100% of any bits of the wire brush residue off of the item before reinstalling it. I am talking about itsy bitsy pieces that you don't really see at first, or even third, glance. The non-stainless bits will rust and may leak and stain the deck (or wherever). I carry stainless brushes on the boat for that purpose and I use the brass ones if I don't need that much effort.

Regarding solvents, the chemistry of the goo when it is uncured is not the same as when it is cured. I have never seen acetone soften cured 5200 up enough to make much difference. It is amazing once it is cured. It is just elastic enough to resist scraping and even bead or sand blasting. Blasting can sometimes work though but you have to take care to not dull the bright side if that is important. Also, you don't really have to get 99.9% of the old goo off (except for silicone). You do need to get enough off that you have a good seal all around the perimeter of the item. So it has to be removed to the point that any remainder if not "proud" to the sealing surface.

Silicone is a menace on boats but once you use it for a particular part you have to actually remove the surface material of both the part and the deck by sanding or other abrasion. There are some products that advertise as removing silicone - they don't remove that last bit that is at the surface of the materials - and that is where the new stuff won't stick. It looks clean but it isn't. I am not even 100% sure that new silicone will stick that well to old cured silicone.

I believe that 5200 is a polyurethane adhesive only, i.e. it does not contain silicone. Heat will soften it but it will not remove it. A heat gun is useful to be able to stretch or shear the seal to remove the part so long as it doesn't damage anything around it. It won't release it from the material unless it never cured properly in the first place. Also, 3M says don't use alcohol to clean the surfaces you are bonding with 5200, and that bare metal should be primed with a suitable primer (see 3M site). I haven't ever done that and don't know anyone who has but that's what they instruct.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I've grown weary of all those Nautica clothes with the little sail emblem on everything that Sue has been buying for years, every Christmas, Father's Day, birthday. Gads, we must keep them in business. I try to get her to switch it up with Tommy Hilfiger clothes that have the little flag emblem!

I also LOVE the Tommy Bahama reversible sweaters! http://www.tommybahama.com/TBG/Men/...&kpid=T27674&gclid=CJywhv_oyMICFeXm7AodnD4AIA

Check these out! I wear these (every day if I didn't think it was embarrassing to do so) 3 seasons out of 4! I think some of you guys in the south wouldn't understand.

 

[Gene Neill]

Scott, I know a guy who got that Nautica logo tattooed on his leg. And NO, before you even ask ... that guy isn't ME.

I'd like to add non-alcohlic beer to the list!

 

[thinwater]

Almost as funny as an anchor thread.

 

[rpwillia]

Didn't you mean to say ...

Almost as funny as an anchor thread.

THE anchor thread? :stirthepot:

 

[kito]

If anyone gets 5200 for Christmas and don't want it, send it my way. Can't blame 5200 for being used incorrectly. Kind of like guns in the wrong hands.

 

[justsomeguy]

If anyone gets 5200 for Christmas and don't want it, send it my way. Can't blame 5200 for being used incorrectly. Kind of like guns in the wrong hands.

This website won't let me give you any more reputation points, so you get it personally.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Over the years I have heard all about various compounds to include silicon and 5200/4200 and others. As a former dealer, I will speak in layman's terms.

The silicon used to hold windows in is made by Dow but in essence it is an architechual grade 100% pure silicon which is strong and adheres very well which is why it is good for holding windows in place. I use to buy mine from a local Ace Hardware and worked well for many years. One main key is prepping the surface before application and that is where there will be a failure if not done correctly.

In the event of shroud chain plates, you have to clean all the old stuff out back to glass and if the gap is too wide between the chain plate and edge of the hole, like Centerline pointed out, you have to stop that movement and one way is what he did to stop that movement. I have used small plastic wedges too. Then fill in the hole with either 4200 or a good silicon. 4200 is not permanent. However, I used West Marine brand silicon actually made by Silaflex (spelling may be off) which is tenacious on holding, elastic, will not shrink and is resistant to sunlight. The key is overcaulking with silicon to let it ooze out when placing that cover plate back in place and let dry before attaching any shrouds. I have used that silicon in other repairs above water line.

As for 5200, you might as well call it an adhesive as it is permanent and that is used by boat dealers when securing keels to the hulls, secures the hull to deck joints. Again the key to a permanent and good seal is the prep work and above all let it dry for seven days before moving anything. Too many forget it takes time. There are ways to get it apart and yes there is an agent that will dissolve it but difficult to apply in some areas. It has it uses if applied in the proper applications.

You can clean up with either acetone or alcohol depending on the surfaces. If around any plastics to include lexan and so on, acetone will interreact and cause damage, so no acetone basically around plastics.

Again, prep work and the use of materials in the proper applications is the key as to what products to work with. Sorry Stu but 5200 has it place too and only if you knew what I know where else it has been used too. By the way, would you like to bath in 5200? I could not resist on that as it gave me a chuckle.

 

[woodster]

It took me 45 minutes to clean this little chainplate cover.

forty five minutes keelhaul that slacker :stirthepot:

 

[Ron20324]

I've grown weary of all those Nautica ... we must keep them in business. ....

I dunno... Nautica used to come up with nice bathing suits with boats or charts or some natical design. They were their "Annapolis Series" of swimwear. Nowdays, you hardly ever see them. I have 25 pairs I've collected over the years.