I recently installed a mast wing plate that will allow me to install various blocks so I can run lines aft to the cockpit on my 1977 Catalina 30. What lines do you recommend I run back? What does your boat have & do you like it? Allen Schweitzer s/v Drambuie C-30 Hull #632
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Doug T.
Lines run aft
I have the following run aft on my cabin top: main, genoa and spinnaker halyards, vang, outhaul, and one reefing line. Outside the stanchions I have the furling line (starboard side) and the cruising spinnaker tack line (port side). I use them all, all the time except the genoa halyard -- it's on a furler so it doesn't get used much. I'm thinking of putting it back on the mast and putting something else in its place. Perhaps a 2nd reefing line. Perhaps a single-line preventer set up. Perhaps a storm jib halyard when I get around to adding a solent stay or inner forestay. BTW: It's great to have the outhaul run aft -- you can adjust it even when the boom is way out while in a run.
I have the following run aft on my cabin top: main, genoa and spinnaker halyards, vang, outhaul, and one reefing line. Outside the stanchions I have the furling line (starboard side) and the cruising spinnaker tack line (port side). I use them all, all the time except the genoa halyard -- it's on a furler so it doesn't get used much. I'm thinking of putting it back on the mast and putting something else in its place. Perhaps a 2nd reefing line. Perhaps a single-line preventer set up. Perhaps a storm jib halyard when I get around to adding a solent stay or inner forestay. BTW: It's great to have the outhaul run aft -- you can adjust it even when the boom is way out while in a run.
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Ed Schenck
Doug, why the. . . .
spinnaker tack line? What do you do with that, is the tack not permanent? I just bought a used drifter and wonder if that would be different from your cruising spinnaker. I am also running lines back but just have two double deck organizers and two double clutches. So I'll have to be very selective about which lines that I run.
spinnaker tack line? What do you do with that, is the tack not permanent? I just bought a used drifter and wonder if that would be different from your cruising spinnaker. I am also running lines back but just have two double deck organizers and two double clutches. So I'll have to be very selective about which lines that I run.
Why do you have to be selective?
Ed: Why do you have to be selective. You can get bigger organizers and more sheet stoppers. There is no limit to what you can do given a big enough boating budget! PS: Gauhauer deck organizers are get and they are very reasonably priced.
Ed: Why do you have to be selective. You can get bigger organizers and more sheet stoppers. There is no limit to what you can do given a big enough boating budget! PS: Gauhauer deck organizers are get and they are very reasonably priced.
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Doug T.
Tack line
The tack line is certainly optional, but is helpful. It allows you to get the tack of the sail farther up. Mine's rigged thus: from a cleat on the cockpit coaming (near a winch), through a series of fairleads on the lifeline stanchions, through a block just in front of the forestay chainplate. The snap shackle on the end is then attached to the tack of the sail. Also attached to the tack of the sail is another shackle that's hooked to a "necklace" of 1 inch wooden beads that go around the furled genoa. When you adjust the tack line, the tack of the sail goes higher or lower, with the necklace riding up and down the furled genoa. Without the necklace, the tack of the sail would tend to go out to the leeward side of the boat instead of changing height. I trim to keep the tack even with the clew.
The tack line is certainly optional, but is helpful. It allows you to get the tack of the sail farther up. Mine's rigged thus: from a cleat on the cockpit coaming (near a winch), through a series of fairleads on the lifeline stanchions, through a block just in front of the forestay chainplate. The snap shackle on the end is then attached to the tack of the sail. Also attached to the tack of the sail is another shackle that's hooked to a "necklace" of 1 inch wooden beads that go around the furled genoa. When you adjust the tack line, the tack of the sail goes higher or lower, with the necklace riding up and down the furled genoa. Without the necklace, the tack of the sail would tend to go out to the leeward side of the boat instead of changing height. I trim to keep the tack even with the clew.
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Trevor
Doug, great description of the tack line
Hi Doug - I'm expecting to receive my Doyle chute and ATN sock (purchased from this site) soon and am looking into the "necklace" with beads on the tack you referenced. I've heard this is a good way to go. Can you give me more info on where you sourced the materials? Thanks, Trevor
Hi Doug - I'm expecting to receive my Doyle chute and ATN sock (purchased from this site) soon and am looking into the "necklace" with beads on the tack you referenced. I've heard this is a good way to go. Can you give me more info on where you sourced the materials? Thanks, Trevor
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Doug T.
Necklace
I got the beads at a local arts and crafts store. I think I used about 20 of them. The ones I found only had holes that went about halfway through. I through-drilled them myself. I dipped them in epoxy to seal them from the elements and to make sure they didn't splinter, etc. I then strung them on about four feet of 1/8" Vectran line (New England Ropes V-12). It's very strong, doesn't stretch, it's pretty slippery so the beads roll easily, yet it holds knots very well. Center them on the line by tying stopper knots in the line, one on each side of the beads. Make sure the beads are not too tight between the knots or the necklace won't bend around the furled jib. Then tie both ends to a snap shackle. You might need to adjust the length of the necklace to suit your own bow setup -- it kinda depends on the orientation of the tack line block, your furler drum, the bow pulpit and any anchor rollers you have. The goal is to avoid chafing and to make sure that nothing hangs up when you jibe. Also, you may not need to use that many beads. We have a new genoa and it doesn't furl very tightly yet, so it's kind of fat. I'm also thinking about using more than one necklace to help spread the load on the furled sail. The ATN "Tacker" product (which this necklace thingy replaces) is quite wide and does a better job of spreading the load. The beads move up and down better than the Tacker, though, and are a hell of a lot cheaper!
I got the beads at a local arts and crafts store. I think I used about 20 of them. The ones I found only had holes that went about halfway through. I through-drilled them myself. I dipped them in epoxy to seal them from the elements and to make sure they didn't splinter, etc. I then strung them on about four feet of 1/8" Vectran line (New England Ropes V-12). It's very strong, doesn't stretch, it's pretty slippery so the beads roll easily, yet it holds knots very well. Center them on the line by tying stopper knots in the line, one on each side of the beads. Make sure the beads are not too tight between the knots or the necklace won't bend around the furled jib. Then tie both ends to a snap shackle. You might need to adjust the length of the necklace to suit your own bow setup -- it kinda depends on the orientation of the tack line block, your furler drum, the bow pulpit and any anchor rollers you have. The goal is to avoid chafing and to make sure that nothing hangs up when you jibe. Also, you may not need to use that many beads. We have a new genoa and it doesn't furl very tightly yet, so it's kind of fat. I'm also thinking about using more than one necklace to help spread the load on the furled sail. The ATN "Tacker" product (which this necklace thingy replaces) is quite wide and does a better job of spreading the load. The beads move up and down better than the Tacker, though, and are a hell of a lot cheaper!
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Bryce Grefe
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Joe Ford
Tackline also rigged as foreguy
An adjustable tackline is indespesible if you fly an asymetrical spin. Use it to adjust luff tension for fuller or flatter shape. On my boat, a snapshackle-block attaches the tackline to a short pennant fixed to the stemhead. That way I can easily move the block to a mid deck padeye to convert the tackline to a spinnaker/whisker pole foreguy. If you use both types of spins this is a tremendous convenience. I guess you could also use this set up to rig a boom preventer.
An adjustable tackline is indespesible if you fly an asymetrical spin. Use it to adjust luff tension for fuller or flatter shape. On my boat, a snapshackle-block attaches the tackline to a short pennant fixed to the stemhead. That way I can easily move the block to a mid deck padeye to convert the tackline to a spinnaker/whisker pole foreguy. If you use both types of spins this is a tremendous convenience. I guess you could also use this set up to rig a boom preventer.
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