I want to get a portable jump starter to keep on my boat for that inevitable day when I end up with dead batteries. How many amps do I need? Any other advice? its a Hunter 375 with a yanmar 3hm35f. Thanks.
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What is the chance of 2 dead battery banks?
I would invest in a isolator/combiner. Always leave your starter battery in reserve. Run you housekeeping & battery starting off the house bank. When you housebank craps out you have your starting battery. It will be charged when your engine is running or you are hooked to shore power with your charger on. Spend your money on high quality long life batteries like AGM or GEL's you will be money ahead. PS: what are you going to do when the "jump starter" is dead?
I would invest in a isolator/combiner. Always leave your starter battery in reserve. Run you housekeeping & battery starting off the house bank. When you housebank craps out you have your starting battery. It will be charged when your engine is running or you are hooked to shore power with your charger on. Spend your money on high quality long life batteries like AGM or GEL's you will be money ahead. PS: what are you going to do when the "jump starter" is dead?
I've carried one...
... for 14 seasons on my Legend 37 w/3HM35F and have never had to use it for either me or anybody elses boat. I take it from my car in the Spring and return it in the Fall. It's 800 amps and 12v . I have used it for doing my GPS "homework" the evening before heading out on the boat by plugging my GPS into it w/an adaptor.
... for 14 seasons on my Legend 37 w/3HM35F and have never had to use it for either me or anybody elses boat. I take it from my car in the Spring and return it in the Fall. It's 800 amps and 12v . I have used it for doing my GPS "homework" the evening before heading out on the boat by plugging my GPS into it w/an adaptor.
Practical Sailor said.......
Practical Sailor said....... 12-Volt Booster Packs Wal-Mart's EverStart booster delivers a lot of cold cranking amps for the money, but lacks a light. The versatile Xantrex Powerpack 300 Plus, is a do-it-all booster and a good choice for smaller boats. It was a lot to ask—12-degree air temperature and a big, cold diesel with an enfeebled battery. We tried both of the bigger boosters (which were chilled to the bone themselves) and neither answered the call. When it warmed up to 30 degrees, things got better. A few months ago, we were working on an evaluation of cabin heaters in the workshop of our executive editor. The workshop is set up more for work on rope, deck hardware, and marine coatings than for things electrical, and when it came to the 12-volt-powered heaters, we found that our 10-amp DC power supply wasn't up to the task. Nor did we have a charged 12-volt battery on hand. We scratched our heads for about 15 seconds, then the executive editor said, "Wonder if this'll work," and hauled out of the shadows a new, in-the-box Xantrex Xpower Powerpack 300 PLUS that he had lying around, waiting for its moment.… There is much more in the artice which appeared in Practical Sailor on April 1, 2005 Volume 31 - Number 7
Practical Sailor said....... 12-Volt Booster Packs Wal-Mart's EverStart booster delivers a lot of cold cranking amps for the money, but lacks a light. The versatile Xantrex Powerpack 300 Plus, is a do-it-all booster and a good choice for smaller boats. It was a lot to ask—12-degree air temperature and a big, cold diesel with an enfeebled battery. We tried both of the bigger boosters (which were chilled to the bone themselves) and neither answered the call. When it warmed up to 30 degrees, things got better. A few months ago, we were working on an evaluation of cabin heaters in the workshop of our executive editor. The workshop is set up more for work on rope, deck hardware, and marine coatings than for things electrical, and when it came to the 12-volt-powered heaters, we found that our 10-amp DC power supply wasn't up to the task. Nor did we have a charged 12-volt battery on hand. We scratched our heads for about 15 seconds, then the executive editor said, "Wonder if this'll work," and hauled out of the shadows a new, in-the-box Xantrex Xpower Powerpack 300 PLUS that he had lying around, waiting for its moment.… There is much more in the artice which appeared in Practical Sailor on April 1, 2005 Volume 31 - Number 7
I would forget the jump start day with good sound prep.
One is isolating the power bank from the starter bank an complete that with a good knowledge about how to maintain both banks for not only good performance but longivity. That is difficult and it takes some monitoring and TLC of the batteries, but it will pay in the end. These guys will have great ideas and I hope I get the time to do a detail if someone doesn't beat me to it. Electric is a very valuable thing on a boat if the boat uses electric. If you are married or have a special person you are impressing, you need to know your electric abilities. If you are married it could be life and death, if you are entertaining, it could be, see ya later.... I am sure you will get great response by the group here that have learned by trowel and error. ( that is how you learn to finish concrete also) r.w.landau
One is isolating the power bank from the starter bank an complete that with a good knowledge about how to maintain both banks for not only good performance but longivity. That is difficult and it takes some monitoring and TLC of the batteries, but it will pay in the end. These guys will have great ideas and I hope I get the time to do a detail if someone doesn't beat me to it. Electric is a very valuable thing on a boat if the boat uses electric. If you are married or have a special person you are impressing, you need to know your electric abilities. If you are married it could be life and death, if you are entertaining, it could be, see ya later.... I am sure you will get great response by the group here that have learned by trowel and error. ( that is how you learn to finish concrete also) r.w.landau
I carry one also
It is the type that has an 400 watt inverter, jump starter, light, and air compressor. I originally bought it to run power tools when my marina didn't have electric available. I've kept it on the boat since then and never had to use it myself to jump the diesel but I have lent it out more times than I can count to help others. It never had any problems starting engines, largest was a 350! The work light has come in handy, and the air compressor works great for fenders. It would run a palm sander for a good hour and a half. Manny
It is the type that has an 400 watt inverter, jump starter, light, and air compressor. I originally bought it to run power tools when my marina didn't have electric available. I've kept it on the boat since then and never had to use it myself to jump the diesel but I have lent it out more times than I can count to help others. It never had any problems starting engines, largest was a 350! The work light has come in handy, and the air compressor works great for fenders. It would run a palm sander for a good hour and a half. Manny
Many ways to skin the cat
As we all know, with boats there are many different ways of doing things. When it comes to electrical systems, my choice of the options has been to develop a system that is ON the boat and that works, rather than depending on another piece of equipment to support a perhaps less-than-complete installed system. Accordingly, I chose a robust house bank, a separate starting battery, a combiner to avoid inadvertent drains of the house bank, an upgraded alternator regulator system to provide adequate charging during motoring (well beyond the capabilities of the stock alternators still bing installed - yecch), a small solar panel to avoid having to remain plugged in when away from the boat, and a good quality charger (in our case an inverter/charger combo unit). Others have taken different courses for different reasons. A split house bank will work, especially with four golf cart batteries. It does reduce the life of the banks because of the higher percentage of draw down, but it still works. If you have room (or already have installed) four "regular" batteries, the choice is either a split bank system or a larger house bank with a separate start bank. The latter system is highly preferred by just about every professional boat electrical representative I have ever read. The reasons are a larger house bank with more available hours and a lower percentage of discharge thus extending the life of the very same batteries. Pretty inexpensive choice, right there. Same batteries, same wiring. See reply #8 at: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=973.0 Other retain small house banks as originally supplied or added to later, and charge more often from other sources. Others depend on third party add-ons, whether these battery packs or generators. There is NO one right answer. It all depends on how your use your boat. You really need to investigate that issue. Wanting to spend more than one night out from being plugged in, and with a fridge, you HAVE to have something else to avoid over-draining a house bank that's less than 200 ah. The firdge draws 60 ah per day, and with lights and music and electronics, it's 100 ah per day. A 200 ah battery bank shouldn't be drawn down more than 50%, which is exactly 100 ah. Given that, however, if you DO intend to stay out for longer periods, and especially if you have refrigeration, the dependency to start an engine on a battery pack could work, but I suggest that it would be just as cost effective if invested in a solid boat electrical system, like an extra battery - there certainly is room on our boats for one of those. We spent only $95 each for three 130 ah high quality batteries last year. Then you could use the battery pack only at home or for the car - one less thing to have to drag to the boat. There was a recent post on another board where a (H) owner said he'd avoided his port list by having the "yard" add lead on the starboard side of his boat. My reply: "Batteries are made of lead, why not get some use out of the added weight!"
As we all know, with boats there are many different ways of doing things. When it comes to electrical systems, my choice of the options has been to develop a system that is ON the boat and that works, rather than depending on another piece of equipment to support a perhaps less-than-complete installed system. Accordingly, I chose a robust house bank, a separate starting battery, a combiner to avoid inadvertent drains of the house bank, an upgraded alternator regulator system to provide adequate charging during motoring (well beyond the capabilities of the stock alternators still bing installed - yecch), a small solar panel to avoid having to remain plugged in when away from the boat, and a good quality charger (in our case an inverter/charger combo unit). Others have taken different courses for different reasons. A split house bank will work, especially with four golf cart batteries. It does reduce the life of the banks because of the higher percentage of draw down, but it still works. If you have room (or already have installed) four "regular" batteries, the choice is either a split bank system or a larger house bank with a separate start bank. The latter system is highly preferred by just about every professional boat electrical representative I have ever read. The reasons are a larger house bank with more available hours and a lower percentage of discharge thus extending the life of the very same batteries. Pretty inexpensive choice, right there. Same batteries, same wiring. See reply #8 at: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=973.0 Other retain small house banks as originally supplied or added to later, and charge more often from other sources. Others depend on third party add-ons, whether these battery packs or generators. There is NO one right answer. It all depends on how your use your boat. You really need to investigate that issue. Wanting to spend more than one night out from being plugged in, and with a fridge, you HAVE to have something else to avoid over-draining a house bank that's less than 200 ah. The firdge draws 60 ah per day, and with lights and music and electronics, it's 100 ah per day. A 200 ah battery bank shouldn't be drawn down more than 50%, which is exactly 100 ah. Given that, however, if you DO intend to stay out for longer periods, and especially if you have refrigeration, the dependency to start an engine on a battery pack could work, but I suggest that it would be just as cost effective if invested in a solid boat electrical system, like an extra battery - there certainly is room on our boats for one of those. We spent only $95 each for three 130 ah high quality batteries last year. Then you could use the battery pack only at home or for the car - one less thing to have to drag to the boat. There was a recent post on another board where a (H) owner said he'd avoided his port list by having the "yard" add lead on the starboard side of his boat. My reply: "Batteries are made of lead, why not get some use out of the added weight!"
West Marine
Hello, I bought a SeaVolt unit from West Marine a few years ago. It is easy to carry and has a built in LED light and 12V socket. I have never needed it myself, but I have loaned it out a few times and those people were very appreciative. For $50 I figure it is cheap insurance. Barry
Hello, I bought a SeaVolt unit from West Marine a few years ago. It is easy to carry and has a built in LED light and 12V socket. I have never needed it myself, but I have loaned it out a few times and those people were very appreciative. For $50 I figure it is cheap insurance. Barry
Jump Start
Sounds a good idea to me. Your engine will not be larger than 1.5 litres, though a diesel. This means any small car jump starter should do the job, though Bill Murray's remarks about very cold temperatures are relevant if you ever see such weather. I bought one of these and carried it for years until its battery died. Since then have relied on having seperate engine start battery. Important thing to remember is to make sure the battery in the jump starter is fully charged when you need it. Though some of these jump starters work by supplying the full current into the starter motor direct, others (cheaper?) use the principle of feeding some charge into the boat or vehicle's main battery over about 5 minutes and then using the combined energy available from both batteries to crank the engine. Both work okay. I do not have 1;2;both master batty switch. Instead have two independent batty switches, one for house and other for engine start. Also have an automatic combiner which parallels battys for charging either from engine or shore supply. Good system. Never had a moment's worry. Eng start batty now on its 13th season.
Sounds a good idea to me. Your engine will not be larger than 1.5 litres, though a diesel. This means any small car jump starter should do the job, though Bill Murray's remarks about very cold temperatures are relevant if you ever see such weather. I bought one of these and carried it for years until its battery died. Since then have relied on having seperate engine start battery. Important thing to remember is to make sure the battery in the jump starter is fully charged when you need it. Though some of these jump starters work by supplying the full current into the starter motor direct, others (cheaper?) use the principle of feeding some charge into the boat or vehicle's main battery over about 5 minutes and then using the combined energy available from both batteries to crank the engine. Both work okay. I do not have 1;2;both master batty switch. Instead have two independent batty switches, one for house and other for engine start. Also have an automatic combiner which parallels battys for charging either from engine or shore supply. Good system. Never had a moment's worry. Eng start batty now on its 13th season.
seems like no difference to me
carrying around a jump starter or installing a separate start battery seems to be the choice - seems like it's essentially the same thing to me except one option is more permanent, larger capacity and hard-wired.
carrying around a jump starter or installing a separate start battery seems to be the choice - seems like it's essentially the same thing to me except one option is more permanent, larger capacity and hard-wired.
I keep a 600 CCA Jump Start
battery pack on my boat and have found it very useful. While the original purpose was, like you stated, to back up the main starting batteries, I have never had to use it (on the boat) for that purpose. My ship's batteries seem to hold their charges through engine use and a solar panel maintainer. But one day I found that I had left the lights on in my car and its battery was dead. Went back to the boat and got the "Jump Start." Started the car up easily. I have also found the "Jump Start" power pack very useful for (1) using a 12vdc vacuum all over and on the deck of the boat; (2) keeping my cell phone charged when cruising; (3) plugging in a Mega-lite now and then, and (4) lots of other chores requiring 12v power and that I didn't want to run down the starting or house batteries to do. Very handy -- primarily due to its portability -- and inexpensive device, IMHO.
battery pack on my boat and have found it very useful. While the original purpose was, like you stated, to back up the main starting batteries, I have never had to use it (on the boat) for that purpose. My ship's batteries seem to hold their charges through engine use and a solar panel maintainer. But one day I found that I had left the lights on in my car and its battery was dead. Went back to the boat and got the "Jump Start." Started the car up easily. I have also found the "Jump Start" power pack very useful for (1) using a 12vdc vacuum all over and on the deck of the boat; (2) keeping my cell phone charged when cruising; (3) plugging in a Mega-lite now and then, and (4) lots of other chores requiring 12v power and that I didn't want to run down the starting or house batteries to do. Very handy -- primarily due to its portability -- and inexpensive device, IMHO.
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