Hi, The flap on the bottom of my Hunter 170 where the center board comes out is loose. What kind of glue should I use to fix it?? The boat is in salt water 4 mos each year. Thanks, Brian
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B
Brian
What flap
I was just working on my center boatd. What flap are you talking about. I did not see one where the center board comes down from the bottom of the hull. Brian
I was just working on my center boatd. What flap are you talking about. I did not see one where the center board comes down from the bottom of the hull. Brian
Flap / Gasket
Thanks Rick, I got a good idea know what the flaps / gasket would be used for. I don't know why my 170 does not have them. I will ask my dealer although it does'nt seem to have impaired my sailing ability, I would like to go faster ! I have not seen any water splashing up through the trunk. I don't know if I will bother adding the flaps / gasket.
Thanks Rick, I got a good idea know what the flaps / gasket would be used for. I don't know why my 170 does not have them. I will ask my dealer although it does'nt seem to have impaired my sailing ability, I would like to go faster ! I have not seen any water splashing up through the trunk. I don't know if I will bother adding the flaps / gasket.
M
Mike G.
SuperGlue!
SuperGlue (or maybe it was KrazyGlue) worked great when one of my flaps came unhitched from the hull, toward the stern. It hasn't moved since I glued it back on-- probably a year ago now. Mike G.
SuperGlue (or maybe it was KrazyGlue) worked great when one of my flaps came unhitched from the hull, toward the stern. It hasn't moved since I glued it back on-- probably a year ago now. Mike G.
J
Joe
Gorilla Glue
Something new here in the Northeast. Waterproof but don't use this stuff anywhere you might want to take apart later! Product is true to it's name. I suggest gluing something as a test first to get a feel for how the product expands but not to worry...dries product can be cut away with a knife. Joe
Something new here in the Northeast. Waterproof but don't use this stuff anywhere you might want to take apart later! Product is true to it's name. I suggest gluing something as a test first to get a feel for how the product expands but not to worry...dries product can be cut away with a knife. Joe
R
Rick S.
Polyurethane glue expands
Gorilla Glue and other polyurethane glues are strong, durable and waterproof, and the excess trims away fairly easily, but remember that the glue expands as it sets. This is great if you are using clamps or weights-- the glue expands to fill small voids between the two joined surfaces, and the clamps/weights keep the pieces from being forced apart. Without pressure, you're likely to end up with a too-thick (and therefore weak)layer of glue between the hull and the centerboard flap, and the thickness of the glue layer is likely to be uneven. One way to apply pressure in this case be to turn the hull upside-down -- you glue down the flaps, cover them with a strip of waxed paper, then lay down a flexible wood batten, topped by weights -- bricks, cans, or whatever you can find to apply even pressure along the batten. The waxed paper prevents the excess glue squeeze-out from bonding the batten to the hull. The only certain advice I can offer is this: when you use polyurethane glue, be sure to wear gloves. Wherever the glue touches your skin you'll get a dark stain that won't wash off, and takes days to wear off. I repair and refinish antique furniture and I speak from experience.
Gorilla Glue and other polyurethane glues are strong, durable and waterproof, and the excess trims away fairly easily, but remember that the glue expands as it sets. This is great if you are using clamps or weights-- the glue expands to fill small voids between the two joined surfaces, and the clamps/weights keep the pieces from being forced apart. Without pressure, you're likely to end up with a too-thick (and therefore weak)layer of glue between the hull and the centerboard flap, and the thickness of the glue layer is likely to be uneven. One way to apply pressure in this case be to turn the hull upside-down -- you glue down the flaps, cover them with a strip of waxed paper, then lay down a flexible wood batten, topped by weights -- bricks, cans, or whatever you can find to apply even pressure along the batten. The waxed paper prevents the excess glue squeeze-out from bonding the batten to the hull. The only certain advice I can offer is this: when you use polyurethane glue, be sure to wear gloves. Wherever the glue touches your skin you'll get a dark stain that won't wash off, and takes days to wear off. I repair and refinish antique furniture and I speak from experience.
3M Mounting Tape
Hi all - My "first" 170 hull had a problem with these flaps - the back ends started to hang loose after trailering the boat the first season. I used "Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape 4011" (see photo) - worked great (better than the adhesive tape that Hunter uses on the flaps). My hull was replaced 2 seasons ago - new hull had no flaps (could hear the water splashing when centerboard was down) Sounds like BRian and Glenn may not have had flaps? Anybody with a 2004 or 2005 170 have a similar experience (no centerboard flaps)? Any idea why the flaps are / were left off?
Hi all - My "first" 170 hull had a problem with these flaps - the back ends started to hang loose after trailering the boat the first season. I used "Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape 4011" (see photo) - worked great (better than the adhesive tape that Hunter uses on the flaps). My hull was replaced 2 seasons ago - new hull had no flaps (could hear the water splashing when centerboard was down) Sounds like BRian and Glenn may not have had flaps? Anybody with a 2004 or 2005 170 have a similar experience (no centerboard flaps)? Any idea why the flaps are / were left off?
No Flaps !
Hi BC, When you got your new hull with no flaps, did Hunter supply you with them at a later date or did you leave them off ? I guess I should call my dealer ! Were they hard to put on ? Glenn
Hi BC, When you got your new hull with no flaps, did Hunter supply you with them at a later date or did you leave them off ? I guess I should call my dealer ! Were they hard to put on ? Glenn
Hunter sent flaps
Glenn - After I realized the flaps were missing, I talked to JY (Hunter ACP) and they sent the parts out for free. I was able to install with the boat on the trailer (just scoot underneath the boat). The flaps come with mounting tape attached - peel and stick. There is a stainless steel plate supplied that is attached at the forward end of the flaps - this requires drilling 2 small holes. Make sure you use marine sealant when installing the 2 supplied screws.
Glenn - After I realized the flaps were missing, I talked to JY (Hunter ACP) and they sent the parts out for free. I was able to install with the boat on the trailer (just scoot underneath the boat). The flaps come with mounting tape attached - peel and stick. There is a stainless steel plate supplied that is attached at the forward end of the flaps - this requires drilling 2 small holes. Make sure you use marine sealant when installing the 2 supplied screws.
Thanks BC
Thanks BC, I will contact Hunter and see if they will send them out. Does it come with instructions ? I'm not sure about the area that your talking about drilling holes in.
Thanks BC, I will contact Hunter and see if they will send them out. Does it come with instructions ? I'm not sure about the area that your talking about drilling holes in.
Flaps are being sent !
Hi BC, I contacted my 170 dealer and he said that they would send the flaps out to Brian and I asap ! This will give me something to do while not sailing here in southern Calif. I'm also going to rig a single reefing line, so I have a couple of things to do. Oh yea, I need to rewire my trailer lights too :-( Thanks for your help.
Hi BC, I contacted my 170 dealer and he said that they would send the flaps out to Brian and I asap ! This will give me something to do while not sailing here in southern Calif. I'm also going to rig a single reefing line, so I have a couple of things to do. Oh yea, I need to rewire my trailer lights too :-( Thanks for your help.
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