What Is The Proper Way To Tie To An End Slip?

[Sail123]

I am so thrilled, I just requested for a slip in late October, and yesterday I got one! Shows the economy is not all that good! Waiting times used to be 5 to 8 years. Used to be the only time a slip opened on the premium dock (needed for larger boats) was when someone died, and then usually a family member just kept it going.

I have a 30 foot sailboat, fiberglass, from the mid 70's, Clipper Marine.

My slip is an end slip with end and one side. What is the proper way to tie down, so I do not damage my boat, or anyone else's, should I do it wrong, and my boat gets loose.

Last year, we slipped a couple weeks, in a more traditional slip with a dock on three sides, and that was pretty easy suspending the boat in the middle so it did not rub anywhere.

I realize my boat is going to be pressed up against the dock, on bumpers. But I am pretty green, and I really want to know every little detail of how to lessen any damage to any property while I enjoy my summer at the docks, and at the lake this coming summer.

Very happy to have scored a slip, as a trailer boat is a little more work, and it would get used less by my wife and I.

I am on an end, closest boat to a ramp, but not the busy public ramp. Should I hang bumpers on the water side just in case others venture too close?

My slip has hook-ups, power and water. I am as tickled as I can be. The end slips are also a little less money, and that will pay for my gas and coffee all summer at the lake!

Advice from you old salts, if you please. I am assuming a bumper at each safety line post.

I don't know to tie it snug, very snug, loose? Tie it in bow & stern, and also a couple extra places just in case?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Jackdaw]

Good for you Gary.

Hope you slip is as long or longer than your boat. Else this become a bit more complex.

4 lines really will hold your boat. Bow, Stern, and two Spring lines. Bow and stern hold the boat snug to the dock. Springs keep it from sliding forward and aft. You can do breast lines if you want.

Lots of fenders. Attach to a strong point on the boat. If you hang from the lifelines, do so at the stanchions if possible.

Chafe is your enemy. make SURE lines will not wear. If in doubt, buy an short garden hose and cut 12 inch sections to slip over the line at chafe points.

Also think about snubbers, rubber shock absorbers for your lines. Some marinas require them.

Make friends with dock neighbors and exchange cell phone numbers. Agree to act to fix problems you see on each others boats.

 

[Joe]

Gary....... perhaps a picture of your dock would be more helpful than just a picture of your boat.

Anyway, the dock lines should be nylon, so they can stretch and act as shock absorbers. Learn to tie a correct cleat hitch.... a single knot on the cleat is all you need, flake the excess in a flat coil on the dock..... Purchasing a copy or "Chapman's Piloting" or "The Annapolis Book of Seamanship" will be a wise investment.

 

[jibes138]

What kind of dock is it?

If you live in Lincoln Ne you're a long way from the ocean? I used to visit York Ne quite a bit on business. Can't remember any big lakes around. Anyway, if the dock is a floating dock your boat rises and falls with the dock in the waves and with changes in water depth. If the dock is fixed it is a whole different ballgame.

 

[Deadline]

First of all, very sorry about your X experience. That's terrible.

As to tying up in an end slip, it's the same as any slip. And you probably won't need bumpers once you perfect the lengths of the lines.

Guest genuinely appreciate the end slip for access, and you'll find it infinitely easier. We got our with ten minutes notice, and seized it. End slips used to be as valuable as Redskin tix, now moreso thanks to the decline of the team. Sound familiar?

 

[alexco38]

I found some old fenders (still working ones) that people disposed of and mount them on the dock. No need to remove and put back when I go sailing. I have a good set for visiting other places.

 

[Ron20324]

Jackdaw has a good picture, but I see you also have an "end" on the slip. Will that be on the bow, or stern, or is it too early to tell??? I would think the stern to the "end" is better if you can back in. Also, are there pilings on the slip side of the bulkhead, or just solid bulkhead wall? You DO want fenders and/or fenderboards between you and the dock.

Looking at JD's picture, I think the 2 breast lines, being short, would limit your rise and fall to the tides unless it is a floating dock. You'd really only need one spring line to prevent movement towards the "end" dock, and the opposing bow or stern line would prevent much movement OUT of the slip.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Gary, the next question you'll have is "How do I clean the fenders?" Many use acetone, which i did for years and years. Easier: ACE Hardware Brush and Roller Cleaner. Cheaper & easier. Good luck with the lines.

 

[kpgraci]

Gary....... perhaps a picture of your dock would be more helpful than just a picture of your boat.

He posted a pic of the slip here...

http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=136528

...that's a pretty boat. Congrats :dance:

 

[All U Get]

Hi Gary,
Someone on this site gave me this link for pivot turning, etc. a while back and I still enjoy looking at the videos. http://www.videos.sailingcourse.com/ It's from US Sailing and I wish I could remember who sent it.
All U Get

 

[Sail123]

Thanks for the replies.

The dock is floating, I do have a short finger on one side, jets out about four feet. I did not measure the length of the dock, but the marina says it holds a 32' boat.

I like the idea of fenders on the dock rather than on the boat. That will simply my life and keep the clutter down, while reducing duties.

The x experience? I am glad it worked out the way it did. The x was very clean, in fact, seldom used and stored inside year round. Clean boat, with a 8hp kicker only. I think nine grand would buy it as a winter price. I am 6' 7" tall and while the x is a good boat, and I do love macs, I think the bigger boat I ended up with is better suited to me.

You are correct, no big lakes in my area. Branched Oak is 1800 acres. Always in sight of land on all sides. Pretty lake, state park. The lake seems big to me, I grew up on 100 acre highway sand pits.

My dock has two tie points, so I will need to modify the illustration a little.

What size lines are appropriate?

As I have three attachment points possible (one short finger dock from the camera vantage point) would a anchor point in the water for a fourth tie point be a bad idea, to keep the boat off fenders?

I have decided against coiling, and I will be introducing brading to the docks. In walking the docks this fall, all I saw was coiling. I will be known as a rebel. Lol

 

[RichH]

Here's a successful way to tie up to an end floating dock or a floating dock that has no center-end piling between two floating docks/piers. Note: this method will NOT work with a 'fixed' or non-floating dock.

All lines are set Tight and with the boat 2-3 ft. off the long portion of the dock. Waves will cause the floating dock and boat to 'rock' but will be closely 'in time' with the boat for most 'lake' applications. In this configuration you need NO 'fenders'.
If there is 'face' portion of the dock in front of the bow all the better - just tie off to a dock cleat; if not use a tree or other immovable object to tie off to as shown .... the important aspect is that the tie-off points on the portside (as shown) are well off (at an angle) the centerline of the boat.

Set-up:
All lines are left tied permanently to the DOCK, etc. The bow-lines (B & C) are terminated to a shackel or locking caribineer for the attachment to a bow fitting or bow eye ... so that the 'connections' are the SAME each and every time you tie-up. Use 3 strand / twisted NYLON dock line - 'stretchy'. Use a figure-8 knot to attach the shackle or locking caribiner ... so the shackle doesnt slip between "B" & "C".

1. center the boat in the slip and with the boat's beam/side about 2-3 feet AWAY from the dock .... attach all lines to the boat except "E". Lines "A" & "D" are attached to the boat cleats with spliced eyes .... shove the spliced eyes though the base hole of the cleat and simply 'loop' the end over a cleat horn. Make all adjustments on the 'dock cleats'. Will take some 'figgeting' to get this alignment 'right' with the boat centered and @ 2-3' from the dock.

2. Fully Tighten line "E" (attached to a block connected to a side 'shroud', etc..... the boat will now move 'astern' and the stern will swing 'out and away' from the dock; "B" & "C" will hold the bow in position. Fully tighten line "E" (like how you pull a bow string) and cleat it .... I use a jib-sheet cam cleat. Line "E" controls the tension in *ALL OTHER LINES*.
2a. "test" the tension in all lines by forcibly pulling the boat TO the dock... pull the boat towards the dock with extreme force ... if the boat cannot possibly contact the dock when under such force - thats about the correct tension in "E".

3. if line "D" doesnt have enough 'side pull' (to keep the boat 'off' the dock) attach a block to the base of one of the portside shrouds/ chainplates and then run line "D" back to a stern cleat ... all set-up adjustments are made from the dock cleats (or immovable object) with the exception of "E" which is adjusted when you're ON the boat.

Only in 'storm conditions' will you need 'fenders' as the lines will stretch. Otherwise the boat will 'roll' with any waves and the amount of stretch in 3 strand nylon line will be 'automatic' to keep the boat centered .... and will keep the boat off the dock! Obviously you need 'strong' cleats on both the boat and the dock .... and the floating finger pier 'hinges' have to be intact and strong.

Ive been tying up my large sport-boats on floating docks in this manner for many years, only during STRONG winds/waves do I add 'fenders'. The good thing about 'end' floating docks 'on lakes' is that they are usually at the ends of the general docking area and are usually in a 'more protected' placement.

 

[Sail123]

I have a tie point about where the letter "D" is in your illistration. I think your instructions would work. When the marina owner sees this, he will raise my dock fees because it works so well. lol

I may go with fenders and pull it tight to the dock. That would make access to the boat a little easier for old bones.

 

[Gunni]

I have a tie point about where the letter "D" is in your illistration. I think your instructions would work. When the marina owner sees this, he will raise my dock fees because it works so well. lol

I may go with fenders and pull it tight to the dock. That would make access to the boat a little easier for old bones.

Walk down the dock, grab, or step down on either of the stern lines (per Rich's diagram) and the boat will spring to the dock for you. No chafe. Take "Line E" to your winch and you can adjust the distance from your boat.

 

[Benny17441]

With a boat ramp next to it you are bound to get a rolling motion, I would use fenders and allow some slack in the lines. The boat and the floating finger will not react the same way or in unison so there will be some tuggin and pulling. Talk to others on the marina to find out any problems previous boats tied up there may have had. Hope everything is good as a wet slip is an integral part of the boating experience. Could never understand those that consider paying for a slip wasted money.

 

[MrBill_FLL]

how exposed are you to wind/sea's?
the red ball fenders might be a good choice... not as desirable to steal, or stow.

or the large Big B fenders... but they are pricey and might go for a walk

fender boards might be something to look at too. but they work better on pilings

 

[Sail123]

Pretty protected marina, on a small lake. Not much in the way of violent storms.

I have quite a few fendars already, and I think the ones I have will do nicely.

Looked for red ball fendars, and google showed me guitars! lol

 

[Joe]

If you can get a couple of lines to a point on the open side, to pull the boat away from the dock...... you won't need any fenders at all.

 

[Cayennita]

Always use fenders. Either on the boat or the dock. Through experience you will learn as I did that the spring lines should be tighter than the bow and stern lines. The scissor effect will let the boat move in and out as power boaters leave a wake when going by. If you tighten the bow and stern lines, you will get a jerking motion, specially on a light boat as yours. That jerking motion will create excessive wear on the lines and eventually will need to be replaced. Since you are on a floating dock, there is no need to adjust for water rising or lowering. Looks like there is nothing between you and land? You can always drop an anchor away from midship and pull the boat away from the dock. If you can't, then by all means put fenders out to protect your exposed side.

 

[MrBill_FLL]

the only thing that concerns me is how low the dock floats compared to the width of the boat. If you have some storms the boat will be riding up over the dock on the waves. then coming down possibly on the docks.
So, I'd want to keep it away, or like others suggest a line to keep it off the dock.




FYI:
http://search.defender.com/search.aspx?expression=polyaseries

http://search.defender.com/search.aspx?expression=polyldseriesfenders