What Is The Marine Industry Standard Connector...

[GorillaToast]

...for mast electrical wiring in deck stepped masts? From wires coming thru the step to the wires inside the mast. Something quick to connect and disconnect that is highly water resistant and durable to sopping on the deck, being stepped on etc.

tia, bill

 

[dziedzicmj]

try something like this: http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1989-polarized-molded-electrical-connector

 

[jssailem]

Is this a boat you remove the mast all the time?
I do not remove my mast unless needed for a major repair. I created this electrical block to permit removal of the electrical leads. The radar and VHF cables would be fished from their displays to the compression post to be pulled with the mast.

 

[uncledom]

These are awesome. No solder less terminals needed. Remember to use Noalox to ensure a good connection
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Sc...29&sr=8-10&keywords=screw+terminal+connectors

 

[GorillaToast]

So, it seems like it's up to each individual to come up with a solution.

What do the big boat hi-end manufacturers do on their new boats?

 

[Ned Ludd]

This is not a simple question to answer, do your wires come up through the step or next to it. My last boat had a 4 wire plug next to the mast step with a screw on nut to make things secure and water resistant. My current boat has the wires come up through the mast step and connect inside the mast itself providing protection from the elements. I step and unstep my mast seasonally so I figured these would work fairly well in a fresh water environment and coated with dielectric grease.

 

[Skipperdan]

This is what I just bought. I used the 3 prong for all around and Steaming lights plus ground. https://www.jamestowndistributors.c...ater+Resistant+Chrome+Brass+Plugs+and+Sockets

 

[microsnout]

On my previous boat I used SeaDog connectors but was disappointed because they were expensive and they didn't last nearly as long as I expected. I replaced them with the connectors Ned shows above. They are automotive connectors, available in 2,3 or 4 conductors, very inexpensive and with a bit of dielectric grease they last almost forever. They are designed for a fairly corrosive environment like trailer light wires on salted winter roads. I used them just for lights, not instruments or anything else. One advantage they have over other connectors is the wires are molded right into the plastic with no way for water to get in. You don't need to solder wires to the connecter pins, just splice the wires using a good marine grade shrink wrap.

 

[mauruuru]

I used to have these type of plugs but they are prone to corrosion and not all that easy to identify the oversized post to get the plug in proper line up before pushing them together. Last time I unstepped the mast I exchanged them all for a nine pine trailer male and female plug. They have bigger contacts, plug and socket lock together they use nice sturdy screw compression connections and I made up a spare piece of cable with plug and socket ends so I can test all the lights with mast unstepped and cradled on the boat

 

[CloudDiver]

So, it seems like it's up to each individual to come up with a solution.

What do the big boat hi-end manufacturers do on their new boats?

To answer both your questions.... Nothing is really 'standard' in the boating world... although there are published 'standards' that does not mean everyone uses electrical components of the same brand or type, just that they have to meet minimum requirements to be seaworthy (and I use that term very loosely). The range of stuff used gets much broader when you consider P.O. modifications, few of them thought out very well.
What do the high end boat maker use? Scanstrut; http://scanstrut.com/products/marine/electrical-accessories
Scanstrut makes high end stuff in plastic, solid stainless steel, and aluminum; robust and very pretty, but none I know of are quick disconnects for deck stepped masts. Most high end yachts are not deck stepped and run the mast wiring inside the mast until it comes out below deck. Any water that gets in the mast drains into the bilge.
I use a disconnect similar to the one Skipperdan posted, but mine is 4 pin and a little less expensive (but probably made in the same Chinese factory anyway);
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/289_23/deck-connector-4-pin-chrome-brass.cfm
If you locate it carefully it shouldn't get kicked. Put a little PTFE grease on the threads and it shouldn't get water intrusion. If it starts looking bad in a few years just replace it.

 

[GorillaToast]

I exchanged them all for a nine pine trailer male and female plug. They have bigger contacts, plug and socket lock together they use nice sturdy screw compression connections and I made up a spare piece of cable with plug and socket ends so I can test all the lights with mast unstepped and cradled on the boat

I just wired up that type of trailer plug and was planned ng to test the connections with a jumper cable like you did, but unfortunately a cardiac event put that plan on hold for awhile. I plan to have the connectors reside inside the mast.

 

[SFS]

GorillaToast, hope you are okay.

 

[GorillaToast]

GorillaToast, hope you are okay.

Thanks, SFS. Still in the hospital, but restless to get back to work on the boat

 

[SOCAL C50]

Is this a boat you remove the mast all the time?
I do not remove my mast unless needed for a major repair. I created this electrical block to permit removal of the electrical leads. The radar and VHF cables would be fished from their displays to the compression post to be pulled with the mast.
View attachment 135195

My wiring is thru deck and mast base also but the wires are crimped (not liked) I just bought the parts to do a set up like this one, its a clean way to do it.

 

[sesmith]

I've seen this connector from Aqua Signal mentioned in another post. Available in horizontal or vertical configurations. Looks much better than the usual Perko deck connectors I'm using now. Kind of pricey, but if it lasts, it would be worth it. It seems I'm always having connection issues with the Perko plugs.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289944|2289946&id=680929

 

[GorillaToast]

Thanks to everyone for your responses.
I copped out and went with the rubber 4pin trailer connectors.