What is the latest thinking on reliable bilge pump switches

[Rich Stidger]

I realize that "reliable bilge pump switch" is an oxymoron. I replaced a Rule switch last year because it was stuck on. Now the same switch has failed again, this time it won't turn on.

And a different brand switch that I use for a high water alarm also won't turn on because it won't float high enough. (I just discovered this failure)
I have always tested these switches by manually lifting the float arm. That turns out to be an ineffective test if the float won't go high enough with adequate water level.

So now I am faced with replacement of two switches. I refuse to buy these unreliable Rule switches, and it appears that other manufacturers of a similar design are also crap.

So what is the current thinking for reliable switches? I have searched the archives here, but they are old postings. Maybe something new is now available.

What say you?

 

[dlochner]

The Ultra Junior gets good reviews. It sits in an Acrylic tube to prevent debris from seizing it.

No one ever said it was cheap, shop around.

ULTRA Bilge Pumpswitch™ "Junior" for all your Recreational Fishing

Don't risk your recreational fishing boat or the safety of your family with an inferior Bilge pump switch. Simply the Best

ultratef-gel.com

 

[Davidasailor26]

Ours is an electronic solid state switch, a Whale BE9006 - https://defender.com/en_us/whale-el...S8ohuvid_oBBo2EeyjC7QUhwmtGNBZuZTELA5E6XDfGpu.

We replaced it once after 5 years due to a lightning strike, though we may have misdiagnosed the problem and it might still be fine. The replacement has been good for over 6 years so far.

 

[Rick Webb]

Not quite the same boat but might help in the consideration process. On our coach boats for the youth sailing program, I've given up on mechanical bilge pump float switches altogether. We use the electronic bilge pumps that run for an instant periodically. They have three wires. A ground, the sense which I run to the battery switch and is on anytime the battery is switched on, and the on which is connected to the constant hot side of the battery switch and has a momentary switch (horn button) with a rubber cover on it.

I could not come up with any scenario were the bilge pump should not be ready to run if the battery switch is on and the "on" switch works anytime. That is the most reliable system we could come up with.

On the other hand, I grab old mercury switches anytime I can find them. Thermostat switches connected to a relay make a fool proof switch. Thrift stores or a buddy who does heating and air conditioning are the best place to find the old thermostat.

 

[Rich Stidger]

<snip>
Thermostat switches connected to a relay make a fool proof switch. Thrift stores or a buddy who does heating and air conditioning are the best place to find the old thermostat.

That's a good tip to find mercury switches. It's certainly not an off the shelf solution, but one worth considering. TY.

 

[Rick Webb]

That's a good tip to find mercury switches. It's certainly not an off the shelf solution, but one worth considering. TY.

If your float switches still float up and down that is probably a pretty good place to start your MacGyvering the switch

 

[Leeward Rail]

The Ultra Junior gets good reviews. It sits in an Acrylic tube to prevent debris from seizing it.

This is what I have for our primary bilge pump. The deepest part of the bilge is under the keel stepped mast, so I wanted the best possible. Junior has a 5 year warranty, and the senior has a 10 year.
It's connected to a rule self priming diaphragm dry bilge. No vanes to get clogged.

Secondary pump is a typical rule automatic that came with the boat.

Factory installed Manual Gusher pump also there.

 

[Leeward Rail]

We use the electronic bilge pumps that run for an instant periodically.

Here's an diy dry bilge setup with the cyclically running pump idea.

A dry bilge for $50

Water in the bilge, even small quantities, is a recipe for bad smells and generally unpleasant results. Every boat I've owned accumulated water somewhere that a traditional bilge pump couldn't entirely remove. I've long been aware of commercial kits designed to completely dry bilges, but the...

panbo.com

 

[Foswick]

I made my own switch last year (sort of). The pump itself normally activates with the float switch built into it. There is a separate manual switch that lets me turn it on even if the float switch is not activated. I designed my own sensors using solid state resistive sensors. Initially, these were just intended so I could remotely detect water in places I don't want it. One place I put one of these sensors is in the bilge about an inch higher than the bilge pump should allow.

So, by adding a 12V relay, I can activate the pump when the secondary sensor detects water - based on the assumption that the water got that high because the pump's switch failed to activate. This was only ever intended as a backup to the main switch - just something that was easy to integrate since I was already using the sensors.

But, this isn't really a great primary solution (resistive sensors) because while they do reliably activate, they do not reliably shut off in a timely manner because, if the surface remains wet, they will stay active. For the most part, water beads up and rolls off, but under certain conditions, they can stay wet for a while. And, they do draw a very small amount of current. For me, this isn't a problem because this draw is just a "drop in the bucket" compared to the draw of the microcontroller that is monitoring them.

That said, I am pretty happy with the overall design - for the purpose of monitoring. Each sensor is wireless and connects to the ship's computer by WiFi. So, I can just drop one wherever I want - no installation, really. They have small batteries, but do need 12V to stay charged more than a few days. The only one that is permanently installed is in the bilge. I improvise running a wire to one in the cockpit, in the winter.

 

[Rick Webb]

I was bored waiting for my kolache to warm up and thought I'd look. These might do the trick.

Reland Sun 10PCS 3MM 4MM 5MM switch Tilt switch Unidirectional (5MM): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[Rich Stidger]

I was bored waiting for my kolache to warm up and thought I'd look. These might do the trick.

Reland Sun 10PCS 3MM 4MM 5MM switch Tilt switch Unidirectional (5MM): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Nice find @Rick Webb ! I've been searching for such an item, and not finding one I thought I would see if a thermostat switch would do the trick.
The only issue here is that delivery is out in July. This is a project that I really want to fix much quicker.
But this is worth considering. TY.

 

[Rich Stidger]

It appears that the standard Rule-type float switches are horribly unreliable. This is based on my experience, a fellow sailors experience, and opinions on this posting. Nobody seems to make a float switch with mercury anymore, and I really don't want to simply replace these switches every couple of years while wondering if they are even still working.
Years ago with a previous sailboat I installed a Water Witch electronic sensor. I can't remember if it was reliable, or if I replaced it with something else.
So I really want a switch that is bullet-proof. I may have to make my own device with a mercury switch. That seems to be the best choice right now.
Thanks for all your insights and help. Ill post again with my final fix.

 

[Rick Webb]

Nice find @Rick Webb ! I've been searching for such an item, and not finding one I thought I would see if a thermostat switch would do the trick.
The only issue here is that delivery is out in July. This is a project that I really want to fix much quicker.
But this is worth considering. TY.

For that price order it and start looking at the Habitat Restore store, Goodwill, Salvation Army, or whatever you got out there

 

[Rick Webb]

This is probably a more reliable switch than the one on Amazon and ships quicker too.

GENERAL ELECTRIC MERCURY SWITCH 2-25KR28 PART NO. 7316, NEW FREE SHIPPING | eBay

 

[Morgan donor]

After, replacing a few Rule "lever" switches, I put one of these in. Never had a bilge switch problem again.
It's probably not a small boat switch, as you need a real bilge to create the pressure differential.
But if you want to get the electric parts out of the dirty, oily, water - here ya go.
Groco Bilge Pump Control Kit - AS-100 | Defender Marine
It was a lot less when I bought it!

 

[colemj]

We also have the Rule-type float switches fail frequently. They get replaced with the Whale electronic sensors linked to above. We used them on our previous boat when they were made by a different company that got folded into Whale. Never had one fail.

The only thing to note about them is that once in a great while, maybe once a year, enough film gets on them that bridges the sensor pads and they will activate when they shouldn't. All it takes is a wipe with your finger and they are good to go again.

I don't know why Rule switches fail, or what made the old mercury switches more robust. We use these $17 pumps in our dinghy, which has an internal float switch similar to the Rule, and it never fails. It is out in the sun and heat and rain and everything 24/7/365 keeping the water out of our dinghy. It is operated WAY more than any pump in a bilge. The pump part will eventually fail after 3-4 years, but it is always because of water intrusion past the shaft seal causing the motor to seize. The switch itself still works. Amazon.com

Mark

 

[GregW1309]

I installed a Water Witch 10 years ago and it still works perfectly. All sealed electronics with no moving parts.

 

[Dalliance]

My thinking is that simplicity, redundancy and ease of replacement/repair are key in a bilge water management system. For that reason, I favor simple mechanical float switches and the Johnson bilge pumps with the removable motor cartridge.

Maybe I’ve just been lucky or perhaps being in fresh water with a short sailing season is a factor, but the Rule float switch installed in 2007 is still in use and reliable. The Rule 800 bilge pump installed as the primary pump at the same time just gave out late last year and was replaced with a Johnson pump. 17 years is a pretty good run, so no complaints. I have no idea if they’re still of the same quality today. The float switch installed for the secondary bilge pump is West Marine branded. I don’t know who the manufacturer was, but it was installed in about 2009 and I’ve had no issues with it to date.

My primary bilge pump is on a pump cycle counter, which I strongly believe in because I think an automatic bilge pump could mask a small problem until it’s a big problem. The two pumps are also connected to separate batteries.

The hose to the right in the photo runs to a 3-way valve on the engine side of the raw water strainer. It allows me to use the engine as a third emergency bilge pump, but the primary purpose is easy winterizing. The home made brass pipe strainer is friction fit with no hose clamp. I just pull it off and stick the hose directly into my jugs of antifreeze and the engine is winterized in about three minutes with no mess.

Before anyone comments, yes, I know the corrugated hoses are less efficient. I just didn’t know that back 2007-2009 when I installed them. When it’s time or I’m in need of an easy project, they’ll be replaced with smooth walled hose.

This is probably all more than you asked about, but to me it’s all related because all the components are part of a system.