What Hose is Best
- Thread starter George H260
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SeaLand "OdorSafe" brand hose is the best
and Practical Sailor agrees with me. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be available from West Marine, B/US etc,...so you'll have to call SeaLand to find out the name of the nearest dealer. It's not cheap either...over $8/ft. But it is proving to be "bullet proof," which makes it worth the money. It's only available in 1.5"...use Shields or Trident #148 white sanitation hose--which is available from WM or B/US--for your toilet intake and tank vent. SeaLand's phone # is 800-321-9886
and Practical Sailor agrees with me. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be available from West Marine, B/US etc,...so you'll have to call SeaLand to find out the name of the nearest dealer. It's not cheap either...over $8/ft. But it is proving to be "bullet proof," which makes it worth the money. It's only available in 1.5"...use Shields or Trident #148 white sanitation hose--which is available from WM or B/US--for your toilet intake and tank vent. SeaLand's phone # is 800-321-9886
Peggy, what is your recommendation.
Peggy, After following the various threads regarding head intake, vent, and waste hoses, I decided to take a closer look at the tank in our O'day 272. The tank is vented at both ends and coupled before the line exits to starboard. Sure enough the line drops down below the tank and looks to have ..... in it. Earlier I think you recommended a larger vent diameter, but does that make any difference if the outlet opening is smaller than the hose? Currently our boat is plumbed with a Y-valve which I would like to eliminate. We can't dump waste overboard anyway in Lake Erie. It appears that the tank and all the fittings were installed before the v-berth was glassed into place which makes for a very difficult refit. Is the Sea/Land hose fairly flexible? I'm going to have to make some bends in the line and need to know whether I can still slip the hose onto the barbed fittings in such a confined area. One more question. What type of hose is it you recommend for vent and intake, i.e. black, vinyl, PVC?
Peggy, After following the various threads regarding head intake, vent, and waste hoses, I decided to take a closer look at the tank in our O'day 272. The tank is vented at both ends and coupled before the line exits to starboard. Sure enough the line drops down below the tank and looks to have ..... in it. Earlier I think you recommended a larger vent diameter, but does that make any difference if the outlet opening is smaller than the hose? Currently our boat is plumbed with a Y-valve which I would like to eliminate. We can't dump waste overboard anyway in Lake Erie. It appears that the tank and all the fittings were installed before the v-berth was glassed into place which makes for a very difficult refit. Is the Sea/Land hose fairly flexible? I'm going to have to make some bends in the line and need to know whether I can still slip the hose onto the barbed fittings in such a confined area. One more question. What type of hose is it you recommend for vent and intake, i.e. black, vinyl, PVC?
So many questions! 
"The tank is vented at both ends and coupled before the line exits to starboard" Separate 'em and either run both to their own thru-hulls--which means putting in a new one...or run only the one at the bow end out, taking the shortest, straightest, and most horizontal route possible. It doesn't do much good to run a larger hose to smaller through-hull. But the good news is, there's already a hole in your boat...and it's easier to make an existing hole bigger than it is to make it smaller or drill a new one.. Does your tank have an inspection port? If so, you can either put a new vent fitting in the cap using a 1" OD piece of PVC, or you can get into the tank through it to put a new larger one in the tank wall using a bulkhead fitting. SeaLand OdorSafe hose is not flexible at all...it's about as stiff as heavy duty rubber hose. Your best option is to break it where you need to bend it and insert inline radius fittings. And I think the article in the HM Reference Library on replacing hoses will make getting hose onto fittings a little easier. Use Shields or Trident #148 white sanitation hose for your vent and head intake.
"The tank is vented at both ends and coupled before the line exits to starboard" Separate 'em and either run both to their own thru-hulls--which means putting in a new one...or run only the one at the bow end out, taking the shortest, straightest, and most horizontal route possible. It doesn't do much good to run a larger hose to smaller through-hull. But the good news is, there's already a hole in your boat...and it's easier to make an existing hole bigger than it is to make it smaller or drill a new one.. Does your tank have an inspection port? If so, you can either put a new vent fitting in the cap using a 1" OD piece of PVC, or you can get into the tank through it to put a new larger one in the tank wall using a bulkhead fitting. SeaLand OdorSafe hose is not flexible at all...it's about as stiff as heavy duty rubber hose. Your best option is to break it where you need to bend it and insert inline radius fittings. And I think the article in the HM Reference Library on replacing hoses will make getting hose onto fittings a little easier. Use Shields or Trident #148 white sanitation hose for your vent and head intake.
NO INSPECTION PORT
Peggy, There is no inspection port on the tank.I can cut one in on top of the aft end of the tank if there is no alternative. Is there a strong durable fitting that can be fastened from the outside only? As always with boats, room to work is critical, and unless I remove a portion of the v-berth, I may not be able to cut an inspection hole and get access to the vents or the waste line fittings I want to replace as part of the make-over.
Peggy, There is no inspection port on the tank.I can cut one in on top of the aft end of the tank if there is no alternative. Is there a strong durable fitting that can be fastened from the outside only? As always with boats, room to work is critical, and unless I remove a portion of the v-berth, I may not be able to cut an inspection hole and get access to the vents or the waste line fittings I want to replace as part of the make-over.
Buy an inspection port retrofit kit, Tom
Because nothing bonds to polyethylene (your tank IS plastic?), there's no way to seal a new fitting into the tank from the outside...the only thing that's gonna work on a tank in place is a bulkhead fitting pushed through from the inside with a rubber gasket under the nut on the outside. Nobody said it ws supposed to be easy...but the good news is, you'll have all winter on the hard to do it, and a great excuse to spend time on your boat!
Because nothing bonds to polyethylene (your tank IS plastic?), there's no way to seal a new fitting into the tank from the outside...the only thing that's gonna work on a tank in place is a bulkhead fitting pushed through from the inside with a rubber gasket under the nut on the outside. Nobody said it ws supposed to be easy...but the good news is, you'll have all winter on the hard to do it, and a great excuse to spend time on your boat!
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