As I plan for my retirement I think keeping my current boat, a 1981 25 hunter Cherubini, might be fine for what I plan to do. It is simple, in good shape and has all I need for waterway cruises. However I may make a few short ocean passages, island hopping, and wonder about my outboard. Do you just remove it for offshore work? I have seen mine go underwater in the Albemarle Sound with 6 foot waves. I can immagine what could happen offshore. Any thoughts from those who have been offshore with outboards? Thanks.
What do you guys who cruise with outboards do?
- Thread starter KennyH
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If it was me
If it was me, I would make, or buy, a mount, to hang it on the rail. I use one to hang my dinghy motor on the aft rail. Just take a piece of 2 x 6, long enough to go from top to bottom rail, with enough overhang on top to mount the motor. Mount it with three stainless U bolts. You can buy a plastic one for about 50 bucks, but the home made model works fine. Then of course the problem arises, what do you do if your offshore, something happens and you need the motor, and it's rough.
If it was me, I would make, or buy, a mount, to hang it on the rail. I use one to hang my dinghy motor on the aft rail. Just take a piece of 2 x 6, long enough to go from top to bottom rail, with enough overhang on top to mount the motor. Mount it with three stainless U bolts. You can buy a plastic one for about 50 bucks, but the home made model works fine. Then of course the problem arises, what do you do if your offshore, something happens and you need the motor, and it's rough.
You need a new OB mount
The OB should be where you can use it in an emergency, But you could mount it on one of those spring loaded mounts that allow the motor part to be lifted up above the height if the rail. Joe S
The OB should be where you can use it in an emergency, But you could mount it on one of those spring loaded mounts that allow the motor part to be lifted up above the height if the rail. Joe S
I agree but
I agree with you Joseph, up to a point. A bracket that will raise would be a big help, but not always high enough. I have one on my S2, that I use specifically for the dinghy motor, as it is much easier to get on and off the dinghy mounted there, as opposed to picking it up to the rail. I have it mounted high enough that the motor is not usable for emergency use on the boat, and have still had it swamped in a following sea.
I agree with you Joseph, up to a point. A bracket that will raise would be a big help, but not always high enough. I have one on my S2, that I use specifically for the dinghy motor, as it is much easier to get on and off the dinghy mounted there, as opposed to picking it up to the rail. I have it mounted high enough that the motor is not usable for emergency use on the boat, and have still had it swamped in a following sea.
Water over the rail
I would say that if he gets water over the rail on a 25, or 30 for that matter, the motor is going to be the least of the problem. And if the hatch boards aren't in, well no motor is going to help. I don't know about a waterproof cover, but it's an idea. When I got mine swamped, I was pretty close to the marina where I was headed. I pulled it off, pulled the plugs, and cranked it over to get any water out. Then started it up and ran it long enough to completely dry everything out. It would depend on how good the cowling is, and how long it was under. A few seconds would probably not do any damage, but under long enough to get water in the carb. and it will have to be drained before it will ever start again. And if not drained pretty quickly, will never start again. Joseph, I usually tow my dinghy when inside and in the lake or bays, but never tow it offshore. And I have never towed it with the motor on it. Do you tow yours when offshore??
I would say that if he gets water over the rail on a 25, or 30 for that matter, the motor is going to be the least of the problem. And if the hatch boards aren't in, well no motor is going to help. I don't know about a waterproof cover, but it's an idea. When I got mine swamped, I was pretty close to the marina where I was headed. I pulled it off, pulled the plugs, and cranked it over to get any water out. Then started it up and ran it long enough to completely dry everything out. It would depend on how good the cowling is, and how long it was under. A few seconds would probably not do any damage, but under long enough to get water in the carb. and it will have to be drained before it will ever start again. And if not drained pretty quickly, will never start again. Joseph, I usually tow my dinghy when inside and in the lake or bays, but never tow it offshore. And I have never towed it with the motor on it. Do you tow yours when offshore??
I have never towed one since I lost one.
The dingy in the picture is a 1993 10' Caribe and the motor is a 15 Evenrude. The dingy has a double hull hard bottom with a center console. A 6 gal gas tank is under the seat an a type 24 AGM battery is in the console. Strapped inside are 2 oars and a boat hook. the life jackets are stowed over the gas tank under the seat. It sometimes has beach wheels stored with it also, so all told it is pretty heavy, but anybody's guess would be better than mine as to its weight. I know that it's heavy enough that the wheels sank in the sand on the beach, and I had a heck of a time getting it off. I don't beach it on sand any more. The winch motors on the davits pick it up OK but each is a 1500# Rule. Remember the waves are bigger offshore but they are also much longer. I don't think they will have any more affect on your motor than the short steep waves you have already seen. the motor cover is a good idea also.
The dingy in the picture is a 1993 10' Caribe and the motor is a 15 Evenrude. The dingy has a double hull hard bottom with a center console. A 6 gal gas tank is under the seat an a type 24 AGM battery is in the console. Strapped inside are 2 oars and a boat hook. the life jackets are stowed over the gas tank under the seat. It sometimes has beach wheels stored with it also, so all told it is pretty heavy, but anybody's guess would be better than mine as to its weight. I know that it's heavy enough that the wheels sank in the sand on the beach, and I had a heck of a time getting it off. I don't beach it on sand any more. The winch motors on the davits pick it up OK but each is a 1500# Rule. Remember the waves are bigger offshore but they are also much longer. I don't think they will have any more affect on your motor than the short steep waves you have already seen. the motor cover is a good idea also.
Bracket types and locations
I suppose outboard brackets come in various configurations and are mounted differently boat to boat. I had a H25 and the bracket was a lift type with a hydaulic assist (like on a SUV door). In the up position I could tilt my motor forward and the prop would just clear the water. The problem I worried about offshore was the prop coming out of the water in rough weather. Randy
I suppose outboard brackets come in various configurations and are mounted differently boat to boat. I had a H25 and the bracket was a lift type with a hydaulic assist (like on a SUV door). In the up position I could tilt my motor forward and the prop would just clear the water. The problem I worried about offshore was the prop coming out of the water in rough weather. Randy
Thread got off course. . .
I think. Too many responses regarding the dink motor. And you are asking about your main power for the H25. Even on a lift type motorboard you can not get the outboard high enough for rougher seas. And it is probably too heavy to lift up onto a rail mounted board. Might even be too heavy for a rail. If you are bent on being out there(I know the H25 can handle it) then I would add a motor lift from Garhauer. Put the harness around the outboard and lift it up to a rail mounted board. Cover it and then use the lift with harness to secure it and keep some of the stress off of the pushpit. My two cents.
I think. Too many responses regarding the dink motor. And you are asking about your main power for the H25. Even on a lift type motorboard you can not get the outboard high enough for rougher seas. And it is probably too heavy to lift up onto a rail mounted board. Might even be too heavy for a rail. If you are bent on being out there(I know the H25 can handle it) then I would add a motor lift from Garhauer. Put the harness around the outboard and lift it up to a rail mounted board. Cover it and then use the lift with harness to secure it and keep some of the stress off of the pushpit. My two cents.
Kenny, If you are currently using a 20''shaft motor,
you could get an extra long 25" shaft motor. you could raise the power head atleast five more inches. This would make a big difference in a following sea. You might even be able to stash your current motor down low in the boat somewhere as a spare.
you could get an extra long 25" shaft motor. you could raise the power head atleast five more inches. This would make a big difference in a following sea. You might even be able to stash your current motor down low in the boat somewhere as a spare.
Garelick makes what they call an "Offshore OB Bracket"
It lifts a 25 HP 175" motor 15 1/2" vertical. It's an Eez-in Gar#71091 and it lists for $538. I'm sure you could find it for less. The reason I think you should keep your motor in place is so you can use it for recovering a man overboard or other emergency. I once got an award for abandoning a T-Bird race and going back under sail to scoop a guy out or the water. He had gone over in a squall from a boat well behind me, and they could not get to him in that particular wind and sea. They threw everything they could in the water to give him something to hang on to, including a wooden hatch cover. Being upwind, it was easier for me to sail back to him and get him, and we did it in one pass. We scooped him up to leeward, screaming in on him at about 7 knots under full sail. His eyes were wide with fright mostly be cause he thought we were going to run him down. If you were offshore in those conditions, it would be easier to put your engine down, and go get him, and an engine on the rail won't do you much good, even if it's dry. Sh-t does happen. Happy sailing
It lifts a 25 HP 175" motor 15 1/2" vertical. It's an Eez-in Gar#71091 and it lists for $538. I'm sure you could find it for less. The reason I think you should keep your motor in place is so you can use it for recovering a man overboard or other emergency. I once got an award for abandoning a T-Bird race and going back under sail to scoop a guy out or the water. He had gone over in a squall from a boat well behind me, and they could not get to him in that particular wind and sea. They threw everything they could in the water to give him something to hang on to, including a wooden hatch cover. Being upwind, it was easier for me to sail back to him and get him, and we did it in one pass. We scooped him up to leeward, screaming in on him at about 7 knots under full sail. His eyes were wide with fright mostly be cause he thought we were going to run him down. If you were offshore in those conditions, it would be easier to put your engine down, and go get him, and an engine on the rail won't do you much good, even if it's dry. Sh-t does happen. Happy sailing
Lots of good responses. Here is my plan
I already have the lift mount that raises it up about 15 inches. I did not have it raised when it was swamped in the Albemarle Sound. I have the 25 inch shaft but they do make a 30 inch which may be worth while offshore. I plan to purchase a waterproof cover and a new cowling gasket to protect it. It did restart after drying out for a day so the waterproof cover should do the job if tied on well. Any one ever seen one of the 30 inch shafts?
I already have the lift mount that raises it up about 15 inches. I did not have it raised when it was swamped in the Albemarle Sound. I have the 25 inch shaft but they do make a 30 inch which may be worth while offshore. I plan to purchase a waterproof cover and a new cowling gasket to protect it. It did restart after drying out for a day so the waterproof cover should do the job if tied on well. Any one ever seen one of the 30 inch shafts?
one more thought ...
One more post with a bit different spin ... I own and sail a C27 with a 9.9 hp Honda long shaft mounted on a heavy duty vertical lifting bracket as described in previous posts. The bracket has a hefty backing plate that is glassed into the transom. So in all it is a pretty good implementation of the suggestions in this post. So here are three more thoughts: 1. On performance -- in short period waves and chop, even with the long shaft, you just have problems with an OB. The prop isn't deep enough. So its effectiveness is minimal in aiding recovering of MOB, not to mention it is sitting there running on the stern when you're trying to do the recovery. One of my wife's standing jobs in our MOB drill is to remind me to throw it in neutral as we approach. And for coastal crusing, it probably isn't reliable enough to help running an inlet. 2. Prop -- that said, mine works a LOT better as an aux with the four-blade prop than the factory three-blade. 3. Transom -- in quartering seas, I worry sometimes about 100 plus pounds of motor swinging around back there in the transom. You have a pretty good moment arm pulling on the structure of your transom. Given all that, I've decided that in retirement three years from now, the OB C27 goes and something with a deisel aux replaces it. Tom
One more post with a bit different spin ... I own and sail a C27 with a 9.9 hp Honda long shaft mounted on a heavy duty vertical lifting bracket as described in previous posts. The bracket has a hefty backing plate that is glassed into the transom. So in all it is a pretty good implementation of the suggestions in this post. So here are three more thoughts: 1. On performance -- in short period waves and chop, even with the long shaft, you just have problems with an OB. The prop isn't deep enough. So its effectiveness is minimal in aiding recovering of MOB, not to mention it is sitting there running on the stern when you're trying to do the recovery. One of my wife's standing jobs in our MOB drill is to remind me to throw it in neutral as we approach. And for coastal crusing, it probably isn't reliable enough to help running an inlet. 2. Prop -- that said, mine works a LOT better as an aux with the four-blade prop than the factory three-blade. 3. Transom -- in quartering seas, I worry sometimes about 100 plus pounds of motor swinging around back there in the transom. You have a pretty good moment arm pulling on the structure of your transom. Given all that, I've decided that in retirement three years from now, the OB C27 goes and something with a deisel aux replaces it. Tom
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