i am about to get to the bottom of my project. i have some fairly serious crazing on my hull at and below the waterline in places that i will be sanding and sealing with interlux 2000e. just looking at my wing keel and the caulking between it and the hull it looks like i should recaulk that too while i'm there. anyone have a good caulk to recommend? should i attempt to dig out the old caulk or just reseal the cracks. (the old stuff is hard as nails.) after it is caulked i would hope to be able to paint over it all with the same interlux 2000e.
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Brian Conneely
Caulk won't last that long under the waterline
the seem between the keel and hull might be better tended to with a sandable epoxy filler. My h23 also had the same cracking at the joint but I decided to take an easier route and use an industrial coal tar to keep it tight. I don't know if it did any good but it at least set my mind at ease. Take a look at the various interlux systems at yachtpaint.com and see if there's a product more suited for this project other than caulking. I probably would have taken a more proper route in the first place on my boat but that would have involved the whole works of grinding the keel, refinishing, fairing, etc. and at the time I was more interested in sailing...as I'm sure you are too. Brian Conneely H23 kickin' back
the seem between the keel and hull might be better tended to with a sandable epoxy filler. My h23 also had the same cracking at the joint but I decided to take an easier route and use an industrial coal tar to keep it tight. I don't know if it did any good but it at least set my mind at ease. Take a look at the various interlux systems at yachtpaint.com and see if there's a product more suited for this project other than caulking. I probably would have taken a more proper route in the first place on my boat but that would have involved the whole works of grinding the keel, refinishing, fairing, etc. and at the time I was more interested in sailing...as I'm sure you are too. Brian Conneely H23 kickin' back
Tough call? Maybe not
I can see both sides of this one. My first reaction would be not to worry about it if it's not leaking. However, I can also see the value of sealing this area before applying the barrier coat. Maybe this might help resolve the issue...if you run aground hard enough after the barrier coat is applied, the joint might open up anyway and all your hard work will have to be redone. Come to think of it, when I did my barrier coat I didn't even touch the keel-to-hull joint. Unless you have an abvious leak, I wouldn't go to the trouble. Peter H23 "Raven"
I can see both sides of this one. My first reaction would be not to worry about it if it's not leaking. However, I can also see the value of sealing this area before applying the barrier coat. Maybe this might help resolve the issue...if you run aground hard enough after the barrier coat is applied, the joint might open up anyway and all your hard work will have to be redone. Come to think of it, when I did my barrier coat I didn't even touch the keel-to-hull joint. Unless you have an abvious leak, I wouldn't go to the trouble. Peter H23 "Raven"
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David
Wing keel caulk.
When I barrier coated the bottom of my previous boat I did pretty much as Peter mentioned. I coated the entire bottom to within an inch of the hull to keel joint. I then filled the small the small space at the joint with 5200. The keel was factory with 5200 or some other elastomeric compound when the boat was built. Never had problems with the joint for the four years I owned the boat after that.
When I barrier coated the bottom of my previous boat I did pretty much as Peter mentioned. I coated the entire bottom to within an inch of the hull to keel joint. I then filled the small the small space at the joint with 5200. The keel was factory with 5200 or some other elastomeric compound when the boat was built. Never had problems with the joint for the four years I owned the boat after that.
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John Schaub
Check those keel bolts
You might want to check those keel bolts while your at it. I bought my boat from the original owner who I don't think ever touched them. I couldn't believe how many turns I got on them before they were tight.I've been told it's a good thing to check every 3-4 years.
You might want to check those keel bolts while your at it. I bought my boat from the original owner who I don't think ever touched them. I couldn't believe how many turns I got on them before they were tight.I've been told it's a good thing to check every 3-4 years.
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Crazy Dave Condon
good responses
The major question is whether or not the keel to hull joint is leaking or allowing water into the hull via keel bolts. If that is the case, you may have to drop the keel, clean joints and recaulk with 5200. What a job. Let the caulk dry for seven days and you can paint over it using whatever you want to.
The major question is whether or not the keel to hull joint is leaking or allowing water into the hull via keel bolts. If that is the case, you may have to drop the keel, clean joints and recaulk with 5200. What a job. Let the caulk dry for seven days and you can paint over it using whatever you want to.
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william
thanks guys
a little more to consider i guess than i first thought. guess what i'll do is just paint right over the seam as is. get 3-4 coats in/on there and then let dry and retorque the keel bolts. i have already asked and recieved the torque specs from hunter.
a little more to consider i guess than i first thought. guess what i'll do is just paint right over the seam as is. get 3-4 coats in/on there and then let dry and retorque the keel bolts. i have already asked and recieved the torque specs from hunter.
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william
torque specs
OMG...once again windows outlook express ramdomly picked one of my mail folders to delete the contents of! this time it was the one labeled BOAT! as i recall, the specs according to hunter are 35ft/lb for 3/8" bolts and 55 ft/lb for 1/2" bolts. now if i could just recall all the info contained in the other 100 e mails that were in that missing folder....:-(
OMG...once again windows outlook express ramdomly picked one of my mail folders to delete the contents of! this time it was the one labeled BOAT! as i recall, the specs according to hunter are 35ft/lb for 3/8" bolts and 55 ft/lb for 1/2" bolts. now if i could just recall all the info contained in the other 100 e mails that were in that missing folder....:-(
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William Sealy
*cry Keel Fairing
After sandblasting the iron wing keel of a Hunter 23, I filled all the "pock holes" with Interlux YAV135 "Watertite Epoxy Filler." I also faired the joint between the keel and hull with that product. Fairing the keel and joint is difficult because you are "sculpting" from the outside, rather than pouring lead into a mold. I was searching for a method to form the curved joint between the keel and hull when I looked down at the can of Diet Coke that I was drinking. The bottom of the can makes a perfect tool for fairing the epoxy joint as an arch. Try it!
After sandblasting the iron wing keel of a Hunter 23, I filled all the "pock holes" with Interlux YAV135 "Watertite Epoxy Filler." I also faired the joint between the keel and hull with that product. Fairing the keel and joint is difficult because you are "sculpting" from the outside, rather than pouring lead into a mold. I was searching for a method to form the curved joint between the keel and hull when I looked down at the can of Diet Coke that I was drinking. The bottom of the can makes a perfect tool for fairing the epoxy joint as an arch. Try it!
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