My water system smells on some lines but not others. Example the line that goes to my sink smells ok and it id he first destination on the water system. My galley sink smells like rotten eggs but when I run the hot water side there is no smell. Is there something I can add to the water tank to correct this? Also the shower head leaks so nobody users it, another forum for later. Now I just want to fix the smell befor I go cruising this Sunday.
What can cure water system smell?
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Water smell
Check out the head mistress forum. Peggie Hall has advice on eliminating odors, smells and bad taste from a boat's fresh water systems. Her re-commissioning procedure works.
Basically, it involves adding an amount (depends upon the size of tank) of regular chlorine bleach to a full water tank (one quarter cup to a 25 gallon water tank), then open all taps and let the water run until you can smell the chlorine. Shut off all taps, leave the water pump on and let set for two hours.
Drain the tank, refill and let fresh water run from all taps until the chlorine odor is gone. Odor, smell and taste should be normal after that. Usually she advises to do this at the beginning of the season. The last time I did it on our boat was when we purchased her in 2002. Of course we have a much cooler climate in the PNW, except for this past week anyway.
Terry Cox
Her advice follows:
Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual re-commissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire re-commissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during re-commissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Use a solution of 1 pint Purex or Clorox bleach to 25 gallons of water). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. An annual or semi-annual re-commissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement. (The above is an excerpt from my book...see link below)
Check out the head mistress forum. Peggie Hall has advice on eliminating odors, smells and bad taste from a boat's fresh water systems. Her re-commissioning procedure works.
Basically, it involves adding an amount (depends upon the size of tank) of regular chlorine bleach to a full water tank (one quarter cup to a 25 gallon water tank), then open all taps and let the water run until you can smell the chlorine. Shut off all taps, leave the water pump on and let set for two hours.
Drain the tank, refill and let fresh water run from all taps until the chlorine odor is gone. Odor, smell and taste should be normal after that. Usually she advises to do this at the beginning of the season. The last time I did it on our boat was when we purchased her in 2002. Of course we have a much cooler climate in the PNW, except for this past week anyway.
Terry Cox
Her advice follows:
Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual re-commissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire re-commissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during re-commissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Use a solution of 1 pint Purex or Clorox bleach to 25 gallons of water). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. An annual or semi-annual re-commissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement. (The above is an excerpt from my book...see link below)
Re: Water smell
aerobic oxygen added to water storage tank is a good preventor of problems...and good for you as well...!!!...the stuff will keep stored water fresh for a long long time...its the stabil of water treatment with healthy side effects
aerobic oxygen added to water storage tank is a good preventor of problems...and good for you as well...!!!...the stuff will keep stored water fresh for a long long time...its the stabil of water treatment with healthy side effects
Peggy's book
Buy Peggy's book. It is inexpensive, available right here and information you will need for the rest of your life. This public servant should run for office on a platform of removing the stink from Washington and all State Capitols. If anyone knows how to clean up a problem with a really foul odor it is Peggy.
Buy Peggy's book. It is inexpensive, available right here and information you will need for the rest of your life. This public servant should run for office on a platform of removing the stink from Washington and all State Capitols. If anyone knows how to clean up a problem with a really foul odor it is Peggy.
We had a similar problem this spring. We used theraputic grade lemon oil from Young Living oils. We placed 15 - 20 drops into each tank as we filled em'. that seemed to take care of the problem.
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