Hi guys I am working on my new 23 foot Kells sailboat. I have been told that since it is out of the water now would be a good time to paint the bottom. I was wondering what would be a good paint to get. I am a beginner so please take this into consideration. (sailboats not painting. I have painted cars, etc.) Can you buy brush on paint? Also I want to keep it blue so any brand that has blue. I planned to rough up the surface with 320 grit than paint. Does that sound ok? Any info would be appreciated. I am going to post a few pics of the bottom. Thanks.
What Bottom Paint to use for 23 sailboat?
- Thread starter The Barnacle
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Since you are on a trailer...
Probably the least expensive brand. I was in Lowe's this evening and they sale boat bottom paint. I was surprised to see it there, of all places. I didn't check the price though. Just inexpensive bottom paint should do.
Probably the least expensive brand. I was in Lowe's this evening and they sale boat bottom paint. I was surprised to see it there, of all places. I didn't check the price though. Just inexpensive bottom paint should do.
VC-17
I use VC-17 on the Great Lakes (fresh water) Works great. Not sure if it comes in blue. My guess is that you would need to remove all the old bottom paint before application. Looks like you have an ablative paint on now. If paint comes off with a wipe of a rag it's most likely ablative. Easy way out would be to rough up the surface and apply another ablative compatable paint. I'm sure you will get other advice if you follow this thread.
I use VC-17 on the Great Lakes (fresh water) Works great. Not sure if it comes in blue. My guess is that you would need to remove all the old bottom paint before application. Looks like you have an ablative paint on now. If paint comes off with a wipe of a rag it's most likely ablative. Easy way out would be to rough up the surface and apply another ablative compatable paint. I'm sure you will get other advice if you follow this thread.
Look for cheap ablative paint....
Ablative paint wears off to keep the bottom free of growth. It will last about 1 year per coat. The nice thing is that it wears off. Other bottom paint remain and then fail in antifoul properties. After mulipul layers, the paint peels in big chunks. This makes the hull look like it is cancerous. The ablative paints bond to eachother, so changing brands is not a big deal. The streaks in your bottom paint tells me it is an ablative. The cheapest ablative I have found is the West Marine PCA Ablative multi-year paint. Multiyear ablative is important because some paints are designed to be in the water for the life of the paint. If you trailer your boat, that kind of paint hardens and has few antifoul properties the following year. Read the specs. to make sure the paint is designed to be out of the water for the winter. All paint companies have web sites. On the sites you will find the types of paints they offer and the specs as to how to apply and what it will do. The West Marine is giving me 1 year per coat 6 months in the water and 6 months out. It is the cheapest I have found that does the job. The job is fresh water in south western PA 6 months in and 6 months out of the water. I recoat every spring. hope this is of some help. r.w.landau
Ablative paint wears off to keep the bottom free of growth. It will last about 1 year per coat. The nice thing is that it wears off. Other bottom paint remain and then fail in antifoul properties. After mulipul layers, the paint peels in big chunks. This makes the hull look like it is cancerous. The ablative paints bond to eachother, so changing brands is not a big deal. The streaks in your bottom paint tells me it is an ablative. The cheapest ablative I have found is the West Marine PCA Ablative multi-year paint. Multiyear ablative is important because some paints are designed to be in the water for the life of the paint. If you trailer your boat, that kind of paint hardens and has few antifoul properties the following year. Read the specs. to make sure the paint is designed to be out of the water for the winter. All paint companies have web sites. On the sites you will find the types of paints they offer and the specs as to how to apply and what it will do. The West Marine is giving me 1 year per coat 6 months in the water and 6 months out. It is the cheapest I have found that does the job. The job is fresh water in south western PA 6 months in and 6 months out of the water. I recoat every spring. hope this is of some help. r.w.landau
Get a Hard paint, not Soft
There are so many kinds of anti-fouling bottom paints now that it can be mind boggling to choose just one. As previously pointed out, you keep your boat on a trailer therefore your bottom paint will not be affected so much by being in the water for short periods of time. But you dont want one of the soft 'ablative' paints that are designed to flake off in the water to discourage growth. The ablative paint will come off on your trailer and everything it touches. You want a nice hard paint of which there are many to choose. I would reccommend at least 2 coats of whatever paint you choose. If your first coat is red and your final coat is blue then when you start seeing red on your hull you know it is time to think about applying another coat. By all means, rough up the hull with #320 or less sandpaper. I would also wipe it down with acetone or Interlux #303 thinner to get any wax and impurities off. Some people suggest that waxing the hull when newly painted also extends the life of the bottom paint. My $.02 CalebD Tartan 27 #328, 1967
There are so many kinds of anti-fouling bottom paints now that it can be mind boggling to choose just one. As previously pointed out, you keep your boat on a trailer therefore your bottom paint will not be affected so much by being in the water for short periods of time. But you dont want one of the soft 'ablative' paints that are designed to flake off in the water to discourage growth. The ablative paint will come off on your trailer and everything it touches. You want a nice hard paint of which there are many to choose. I would reccommend at least 2 coats of whatever paint you choose. If your first coat is red and your final coat is blue then when you start seeing red on your hull you know it is time to think about applying another coat. By all means, rough up the hull with #320 or less sandpaper. I would also wipe it down with acetone or Interlux #303 thinner to get any wax and impurities off. Some people suggest that waxing the hull when newly painted also extends the life of the bottom paint. My $.02 CalebD Tartan 27 #328, 1967
Hard VS. Soft for a trailer sailboat - there you g
OK. So you have ablative paint on the bottom of your boat? If you rub it with a cloth does the cloth pick up some of the color? If so you've got ablative. I am currently using ablative paint on my 27' boat's hull because we keep it moored in a tidal estuarine environment with plenty of bottom growth potential (barnacles and slime in the Hudson?). Ablative paints can be expensive, just price VC17 (gives a nice smooth racing bottom finish) which costs about $40/Qt. I used VC17M once which requires you to mix in copper dust and asks for 2-3 coats which would have cost me well over $250 for all the overcoating. I coated it once (against mfr.'s reccommendations) and had a beard on my hull at the end of the season. This season I bought some cheaper ablative paint sold as WestMarine's brand but made by Petit which is pretty soft. It flakes off if you rub the hull underwater with your hand or a sponge. I suspect that it will come off faster at the points that your boat makes contact with the rollers/pads on your trailer. If you are truly a trailer sailor and do not leave the boat in the water (wherever you are) and wash her down with a hose after each use I still think that the cheap hard paint is the way to go. It has been pointed out that using hard paints the paint can chip away in large sections leaving a pocked marked looking hull (not good for speed either). This is true but should be less of a factor for a trailered sailboat that is kept relatively dry most of the time. There is a problem with putting a hard paint on top of a hull already painted with ablative paint though. You would need to get all the old ablative paint off, down to the barrier coat (if there is one) and then repaint with hard paint. I also have a 19' Lightning racing sailboat which I keep on a trailer and it has a hard paint on the hull which does not make a mess each time it is put on or taken off the trailer. The path of least resistance would be to put another coat or two of ablative if that is what is there rather than sanding the whole thing down and starting over. You will be spreading a bit of extra copper into the area you sail in but what the hey! I used to keep my 27' boat at a marina on LI where the yard guys who were busy painting motorboat bottoms in the Spring said they used the cheapest paint ($40/gal) that it worked fine. Remember, these were not trailerable boats and they may have had chickenpox marked hulls but they also had 150 HP engines to push them. My $.04 CalebD
OK. So you have ablative paint on the bottom of your boat? If you rub it with a cloth does the cloth pick up some of the color? If so you've got ablative. I am currently using ablative paint on my 27' boat's hull because we keep it moored in a tidal estuarine environment with plenty of bottom growth potential (barnacles and slime in the Hudson?). Ablative paints can be expensive, just price VC17 (gives a nice smooth racing bottom finish) which costs about $40/Qt. I used VC17M once which requires you to mix in copper dust and asks for 2-3 coats which would have cost me well over $250 for all the overcoating. I coated it once (against mfr.'s reccommendations) and had a beard on my hull at the end of the season. This season I bought some cheaper ablative paint sold as WestMarine's brand but made by Petit which is pretty soft. It flakes off if you rub the hull underwater with your hand or a sponge. I suspect that it will come off faster at the points that your boat makes contact with the rollers/pads on your trailer. If you are truly a trailer sailor and do not leave the boat in the water (wherever you are) and wash her down with a hose after each use I still think that the cheap hard paint is the way to go. It has been pointed out that using hard paints the paint can chip away in large sections leaving a pocked marked looking hull (not good for speed either). This is true but should be less of a factor for a trailered sailboat that is kept relatively dry most of the time. There is a problem with putting a hard paint on top of a hull already painted with ablative paint though. You would need to get all the old ablative paint off, down to the barrier coat (if there is one) and then repaint with hard paint. I also have a 19' Lightning racing sailboat which I keep on a trailer and it has a hard paint on the hull which does not make a mess each time it is put on or taken off the trailer. The path of least resistance would be to put another coat or two of ablative if that is what is there rather than sanding the whole thing down and starting over. You will be spreading a bit of extra copper into the area you sail in but what the hey! I used to keep my 27' boat at a marina on LI where the yard guys who were busy painting motorboat bottoms in the Spring said they used the cheapest paint ($40/gal) that it worked fine. Remember, these were not trailerable boats and they may have had chickenpox marked hulls but they also had 150 HP engines to push them. My $.04 CalebD
I again say, read the specs for the paint you
will use! Hard paints loose their antifoul capabilities when out of the water. Most ablatives are multiyear paints designed to wear off over the year. Hard paints just buildup. They are designed to be in the water all year round. There are annual ablatives and mulityear ablatives. All of the hard coat antifoul paint are for year-round in the water paints. Look up the mfg and read the specs... r.w.landau
will use! Hard paints loose their antifoul capabilities when out of the water. Most ablatives are multiyear paints designed to wear off over the year. Hard paints just buildup. They are designed to be in the water all year round. There are annual ablatives and mulityear ablatives. All of the hard coat antifoul paint are for year-round in the water paints. Look up the mfg and read the specs... r.w.landau
Why bother?
The purpose of bottom paint (or more correctly, "antifouling" paint) is to deter hard marine growth like barnacles from growing on the hull and creating drag. With the possible exception of zebra mussels (which are found in a limited area) these creatures do not live in fresh water. They also need time to grow, so unless you are in an area known to have zebra mussels AND you leave the boat in the water for more than a month at a time, you don't NEED bottom paint. Bottom paint doesn't stop blistering, and most bottom paints won't stop algae and slime, either. Manufacturers recently started added algaecides and slimeblockers to their paints, and of course the price went up. Again, unless you plan to leave your boat in the water long enough for growth to start, you probably don't need bottom paint. Talk to a few boaters around the local docks but don't just ask what kind/brand of antifouling they use...ask them WHY. You might be surprised. However, if you really need bottom paint, I'd suggest VC17. It's smooth, quick and easy to apply, durable enough to stand up to the rigors of trailering (and the occasional scrubbing to remove algae) and stays effective even when out of the water for extended periods. I've been using it for the last seven years with much success. Check the archives for some of my past posts about VC17. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
The purpose of bottom paint (or more correctly, "antifouling" paint) is to deter hard marine growth like barnacles from growing on the hull and creating drag. With the possible exception of zebra mussels (which are found in a limited area) these creatures do not live in fresh water. They also need time to grow, so unless you are in an area known to have zebra mussels AND you leave the boat in the water for more than a month at a time, you don't NEED bottom paint. Bottom paint doesn't stop blistering, and most bottom paints won't stop algae and slime, either. Manufacturers recently started added algaecides and slimeblockers to their paints, and of course the price went up. Again, unless you plan to leave your boat in the water long enough for growth to start, you probably don't need bottom paint. Talk to a few boaters around the local docks but don't just ask what kind/brand of antifouling they use...ask them WHY. You might be surprised. However, if you really need bottom paint, I'd suggest VC17. It's smooth, quick and easy to apply, durable enough to stand up to the rigors of trailering (and the occasional scrubbing to remove algae) and stays effective even when out of the water for extended periods. I've been using it for the last seven years with much success. Check the archives for some of my past posts about VC17. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
- Jul 24, 2006
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paint
I would not sand the bottom, that is some nasty dust. I would pressure wash it then scrape the flakey spots. Tape of the hull just above the waterline-where the old paint stops. Then tape again above that so when you roll the bottom paint on you don't oops and messup the hull. One gallon will more than do it. I have been trailer sailing for twenty years. The reason for bottom paint is; to hide an unsitely bottom, or if you planning to leave the boat in the water for an extended period. The paint does come off the bottom where it slides on the bunks/rollers, but it takes awhile, and besides i can't see it when its in the water. I have a friend who has a house on the water. He keeps his boat out back for 2-3 weeks, and then hauls it out on the trailer and cleans the bottom. He gets slime, and sometimes a few barnicles. But, he prefers that to having to bottom paint or buy davits. good luck and don't sweat it.
I would not sand the bottom, that is some nasty dust. I would pressure wash it then scrape the flakey spots. Tape of the hull just above the waterline-where the old paint stops. Then tape again above that so when you roll the bottom paint on you don't oops and messup the hull. One gallon will more than do it. I have been trailer sailing for twenty years. The reason for bottom paint is; to hide an unsitely bottom, or if you planning to leave the boat in the water for an extended period. The paint does come off the bottom where it slides on the bunks/rollers, but it takes awhile, and besides i can't see it when its in the water. I have a friend who has a house on the water. He keeps his boat out back for 2-3 weeks, and then hauls it out on the trailer and cleans the bottom. He gets slime, and sometimes a few barnicles. But, he prefers that to having to bottom paint or buy davits. good luck and don't sweat it.
Great info.
Wow guys. Thanks for all of the responses. I greatly appreciate it. I have no idea if I have ablative paint or not. I will check today. I will rub it with a rag and see if it turns part of the white rag blue. Is there another way I need to check to be 100% sure? I will actually put the boat in the water in April. It will stay in the water at our dock at our lake house until Sept. or Oct. The reason it is on the trailer now is that I have to clean it and get it ready to be used. The cabin is dirty. This is my first boat so this is new to me. Thanks Again for all of the info and please let me know if it makes a difference since I will be keeping the boat in the water for 5-6 months.
Wow guys. Thanks for all of the responses. I greatly appreciate it. I have no idea if I have ablative paint or not. I will check today. I will rub it with a rag and see if it turns part of the white rag blue. Is there another way I need to check to be 100% sure? I will actually put the boat in the water in April. It will stay in the water at our dock at our lake house until Sept. or Oct. The reason it is on the trailer now is that I have to clean it and get it ready to be used. The cabin is dirty. This is my first boat so this is new to me. Thanks Again for all of the info and please let me know if it makes a difference since I will be keeping the boat in the water for 5-6 months.
What are your intentions?
Are you going to store it in its trailer or at a mooring or dock? If the boat is to be kept in the water for more than a couple of weeks at a time I would use an ablative pait and do not forget the rudder, swing keel and inside the keel trunk. It will be worthwile to have the boat lifted so you can do the keel.
Are you going to store it in its trailer or at a mooring or dock? If the boat is to be kept in the water for more than a couple of weeks at a time I would use an ablative pait and do not forget the rudder, swing keel and inside the keel trunk. It will be worthwile to have the boat lifted so you can do the keel.
5-6 months in the water
I will be keeping it in the water during the spring and summer months. 5-6 months. Thanks.
I will be keeping it in the water during the spring and summer months. 5-6 months. Thanks.
AFTER 2 M0NTHS
Hi Greg .i just got my first sailboat and had the same questions and had know idea of the previous bottom paint. i ended up sanding the bottom down to the gel coat touched up a few nicks ,scratches and blisters rolled on a primer coat and vc 17 . easy to apply and i thought it looked fine . after two months in a very green lake (fresh water) at haulout the hull looked like it had never been in the water ,the rudder on the otherhand was coverd with green hair. next year she will be in the water for the season this will be the true test .i intend on rolling on another coat of vc 17 . i'm not pushing interlux products, it's just what i ended up useing. i think i would go a litle coarser on your sandpaper for roughing up, 320 may be alittle lite . good luck and happy sailing Mike
Hi Greg .i just got my first sailboat and had the same questions and had know idea of the previous bottom paint. i ended up sanding the bottom down to the gel coat touched up a few nicks ,scratches and blisters rolled on a primer coat and vc 17 . easy to apply and i thought it looked fine . after two months in a very green lake (fresh water) at haulout the hull looked like it had never been in the water ,the rudder on the otherhand was coverd with green hair. next year she will be in the water for the season this will be the true test .i intend on rolling on another coat of vc 17 . i'm not pushing interlux products, it's just what i ended up useing. i think i would go a litle coarser on your sandpaper for roughing up, 320 may be alittle lite . good luck and happy sailing Mike
Paint
Looks like you'll be in fresh water and not experiencing the heavy marine growth the salties get. I'd recommend the VC-17; comes in blue or gray. Ablative paints are designed to be immersed at all times. Removal of the boat from water, and the resultant air exposure to the paint, weakens the coating and it's biocide capabilities. Ablatives shed as part of their design and contain toxic chemicals. They are mandatory for long term salt water use. Why use that type in fresh water with a fair amount of out of water time? You will have to remove your current paint to get a good cure and adhesion of the VC-17.
Looks like you'll be in fresh water and not experiencing the heavy marine growth the salties get. I'd recommend the VC-17; comes in blue or gray. Ablative paints are designed to be immersed at all times. Removal of the boat from water, and the resultant air exposure to the paint, weakens the coating and it's biocide capabilities. Ablatives shed as part of their design and contain toxic chemicals. They are mandatory for long term salt water use. Why use that type in fresh water with a fair amount of out of water time? You will have to remove your current paint to get a good cure and adhesion of the VC-17.
P.S.
also - vc17 wasn't blue.don't know if it comes in blue(don,t think so it,s copper) -i used 9"by 3/8 paint rollers and a couple of cheap brushes.don't use cheap roller covers. - i also used vc tar on the cast iron keel . not convinced this was nesescary but it covered great. -i have a 23' boat too and i used -4liters primer (2000) -2liters vc tar -3liters vc17 this was all bellow interlux recomended coverage but i was running low on funds after buying the boat . got two coats on the hull . there was more than enough vc tar for the keel. hope this helps Mike
also - vc17 wasn't blue.don't know if it comes in blue(don,t think so it,s copper) -i used 9"by 3/8 paint rollers and a couple of cheap brushes.don't use cheap roller covers. - i also used vc tar on the cast iron keel . not convinced this was nesescary but it covered great. -i have a 23' boat too and i used -4liters primer (2000) -2liters vc tar -3liters vc17 this was all bellow interlux recomended coverage but i was running low on funds after buying the boat . got two coats on the hull . there was more than enough vc tar for the keel. hope this helps Mike
What is vc tar
Mike What is vc tar, and where did you get it? I use vc 17 in fresh water, and am very pleased with it. Interested in the tar though, for the keel. Thanks Dale
Mike What is vc tar, and where did you get it? I use vc 17 in fresh water, and am very pleased with it. Interested in the tar though, for the keel. Thanks Dale
VC Tar
VC Tar is a coal-tar epoxy primer for VC17. As the name suggests, it's black. It also has some gap-filling ability, so it smoothes out the little dings in the hull and cures to a surprisingly glossy finish. Sand lighttly with 200 grit sandpaper to give it a little "tooth" then hit it with the VC17 for a bottom finish that will be the envy of the fleet. VC Tar is highly recommended if you have a cast-iron keel because the powdered copper in the VC17 can react with the iron if the boat stays in the water for more than a week or so. Even if the keel is covered with fiberglass, all it takes is one tiny crack and the corrosion starts. Of course, the effect is far worse in salt water, but VC17 was not intended for extended immersion in that environment. VC Tar will help fill any tiny cracks. Peter H23 "Raven"
VC Tar is a coal-tar epoxy primer for VC17. As the name suggests, it's black. It also has some gap-filling ability, so it smoothes out the little dings in the hull and cures to a surprisingly glossy finish. Sand lighttly with 200 grit sandpaper to give it a little "tooth" then hit it with the VC17 for a bottom finish that will be the envy of the fleet. VC Tar is highly recommended if you have a cast-iron keel because the powdered copper in the VC17 can react with the iron if the boat stays in the water for more than a week or so. Even if the keel is covered with fiberglass, all it takes is one tiny crack and the corrosion starts. Of course, the effect is far worse in salt water, but VC17 was not intended for extended immersion in that environment. VC Tar will help fill any tiny cracks. Peter H23 "Raven"
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