What bateries are best
- Thread starter Family27
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Personally I think that wet type lead acid batteries are still the most cost effective battery, & provide more bang for the buck in terms of reserve capacity. Never buy a standard 12 volt car battery. Always buy a battery labeled deep cell, marine grade.
They are rated by amp hours of capacity, the more you can afford the better. But bigger rating is also bigger in size & weight, which can get very heavy. Usually group 27 batteries, two of which should be more then adequate for a C 27, which does occasional overnighters. I am partial to the marine batteries that Sams Club sells under the Duracell brand, as they are a good deal for a large group 27 batteries for around $80 bucks a piece. You cannot buy more capacity for the price, as I've shopped around. Some folks will advocate more modern designed glass mat type batteries or "gel" type technology. These batteries are far more expensive & do not last as long. This is due to the core plate technology inside of them. Traditional lead acid batteries have far thicker & denser lead plates inside of the battery that can take deeper discharges at over 50% capacity without suffering from excessive depletion of the plate core. Glass matt or gel type batteries are less likely to recover or fully recharge when they are deeply drawn down for long periods of heavy use. The only advantage of the more expensive gel batteries that I can see is that they will not leak battery acid if they are tipped or heeled over. They are also lighter weight. But if you're on a budget like most of us sailors are, then I would stick to a good quality, standard marine grade lead acid type battery. Put your money into a good quality automatic charger, which by keeping it topped off at full recharge will make 'em last longer. There are several good makes out here such as True Charge (which I use), Guest, etc. Avoid cheap chargers such as Schumacher, etc, as they may not have a good voltage regulator to avoid overcharging which can cause the battery to boil & lesson its lifespan or even cause them to leak or blow apart. Lastly don't overdraw your batteries past 50% of there rated capacity or you will shorten their lifespan by several years. Cheers.
They are rated by amp hours of capacity, the more you can afford the better. But bigger rating is also bigger in size & weight, which can get very heavy. Usually group 27 batteries, two of which should be more then adequate for a C 27, which does occasional overnighters. I am partial to the marine batteries that Sams Club sells under the Duracell brand, as they are a good deal for a large group 27 batteries for around $80 bucks a piece. You cannot buy more capacity for the price, as I've shopped around. Some folks will advocate more modern designed glass mat type batteries or "gel" type technology. These batteries are far more expensive & do not last as long. This is due to the core plate technology inside of them. Traditional lead acid batteries have far thicker & denser lead plates inside of the battery that can take deeper discharges at over 50% capacity without suffering from excessive depletion of the plate core. Glass matt or gel type batteries are less likely to recover or fully recharge when they are deeply drawn down for long periods of heavy use. The only advantage of the more expensive gel batteries that I can see is that they will not leak battery acid if they are tipped or heeled over. They are also lighter weight. But if you're on a budget like most of us sailors are, then I would stick to a good quality, standard marine grade lead acid type battery. Put your money into a good quality automatic charger, which by keeping it topped off at full recharge will make 'em last longer. There are several good makes out here such as True Charge (which I use), Guest, etc. Avoid cheap chargers such as Schumacher, etc, as they may not have a good voltage regulator to avoid overcharging which can cause the battery to boil & lesson its lifespan or even cause them to leak or blow apart. Lastly don't overdraw your batteries past 50% of there rated capacity or you will shorten their lifespan by several years. Cheers.
Traditional lead acid: the boat has 1 of these now, I read you can top it off with distiller water, and then recharge. I did this, the battery just leaked and lost its charge. So it looks like I will be buying 2 new batteries. The boat has a more traditional bat, and then this lead one. Should I replace both with this type? And should the bat switch stay off when on shore power? The guy I bought it from would always leave it on? I am not sure on the best way to take care of this? I am just learning as I go. If you have more advice, please let me know.
I have to agree with jrowan. I buy mine from Costco which has an EXCELLENT return policies. That's where my membership is, anyway.
When you said your boat has a "traditional" battery, I'm assuming that is a starting battery. A starting battery gives up it's charge quickly to turn the engine over, but has the advantage of being recharged quickly. That is the kind that is in automobiles. Another disadvantage is that these batteries should never be drawn down below 60%.
A deep cycle battery is more typical of a "house" battery which is used to power lights and radios when the engine is not running. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can be drawn down much lower before damage occurs. The disadvantage is deep cycle batteries take longer to recharge.
Both types of batteries can be lead-acid. Some boats have both types on board, one for starting the engine (starter battery) and one for the house (deep cycle) and a battery switch. If you have an internal engine, this may be your config. With an outboard model it's a no-brainer: go with deep-cycle only.
Cost or brand name does not indicate a good lead acid battery. The thicker the lead plates the better the battery. Since lead weighs more, you can do your own comparison shopping by weighing them on a bathroom scale in the store. Having said that, I've had excellent experience with my Costco marine deep-cycle batteries as has jrowan with his Sam's Club. You can't beat the price either way.
To make your battery last a long time, keep them topped off with distilled water and do not draw the battery down too low. The part of the plates exposed to air are forever lost which diminishes charge capacity. A battery drawn down too low starts doing funky things, like the individual plates will reverse polarity. Which answers your other question: A good on-board battery charger (like Guest brand) should always be left on with shore power as they will keep the batteries topped off without overcharging them.
If I were buying two new batteries, I would by both deep cycle marine batteries of the same type and size at the same time especially if you do not have an off-1-both-2 battery switch and will be wiring them in parallel.
Good luck.
When you said your boat has a "traditional" battery, I'm assuming that is a starting battery. A starting battery gives up it's charge quickly to turn the engine over, but has the advantage of being recharged quickly. That is the kind that is in automobiles. Another disadvantage is that these batteries should never be drawn down below 60%.
A deep cycle battery is more typical of a "house" battery which is used to power lights and radios when the engine is not running. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can be drawn down much lower before damage occurs. The disadvantage is deep cycle batteries take longer to recharge.
Both types of batteries can be lead-acid. Some boats have both types on board, one for starting the engine (starter battery) and one for the house (deep cycle) and a battery switch. If you have an internal engine, this may be your config. With an outboard model it's a no-brainer: go with deep-cycle only.
Cost or brand name does not indicate a good lead acid battery. The thicker the lead plates the better the battery. Since lead weighs more, you can do your own comparison shopping by weighing them on a bathroom scale in the store. Having said that, I've had excellent experience with my Costco marine deep-cycle batteries as has jrowan with his Sam's Club. You can't beat the price either way.
To make your battery last a long time, keep them topped off with distilled water and do not draw the battery down too low. The part of the plates exposed to air are forever lost which diminishes charge capacity. A battery drawn down too low starts doing funky things, like the individual plates will reverse polarity. Which answers your other question: A good on-board battery charger (like Guest brand) should always be left on with shore power as they will keep the batteries topped off without overcharging them.
If I were buying two new batteries, I would by both deep cycle marine batteries of the same type and size at the same time especially if you do not have an off-1-both-2 battery switch and will be wiring them in parallel.
Good luck.
All good advice given. As far as your question about leaving the battery switch on, that depends on how your bilge pump is wired. Mine is wired directly to the battery with an automatic float switch, which turns it on & off as needed. This way I can turn the main battery switch off for all other 12 volt circuits, so the batteries don't get drawn down excessively. If you're in a slip / water, you must leave your bilge pump powered all the time in case of leaks. But normally the only other switch that you should leave on is the 110 volt panel is for the battery charger, to charge the batteries up.
The best batteries are the ones not murdered by their owners..
What does that mean? It means I have seen the cheapest Wal*Mart batteries EASILY outlast the most expensive "premium" batteries made when one is given good care and the other not.
YOU matter far more than the brand of battery you buy... The "premiums" are below..
Premium flooded batteries:
Rolls
Trojan
US Battery
Premium AGM:
Lifeline
Odyssey
If, like myself you are took cheap to pony up the cash for shore power a 15w panel an charge controller are a good investment in battery life.
I'd offer that one deep cycle and one starting is the best way to go for batteries, but the best way to keep them happy is with solar to keep them charged up. A battery will, over time, and for some thoroughly technical reasons that I'll gladly leave for those that like that kind of stuff, lose their ability to maintain a "full" charge.
The deep cycle battery, used for house and electronics, should never be allowed to fall below 50% of it's rating, as doing so will prevent the battery from coming back to 100% charge. It may only come back to 99.5%, but next time it's run down into the ground, it may only come back to 99.5% of the 99.5% that it started from and so on. It may seem tiny, but do this every weekend and suddenly a three year warranty on a battery is being exercised well before it should be, and your time is worth something, driving around looking for a replacement when you could be boating.....
A deep cycle battery is intended to provide a steady supply of current for a long time, while a starting battery is intended to supply a jolt of current, right now, to get the 'ol diesel spinning.
A dual charge controller (We have a SunSaver Duo) allows a single input to connect to two batteries, and the charge controller is capable of dealing with each battery separately.
I'll go on record as telling that we had an 11 watt panel on our M26c, a single battery, with an older style charge controller, and I got 7 years out of that battery. I believe that is the exception, rather than the rule. A good charge controller and a 15 watt panel is quite possibly enough to keep both batteries fully charged, if you use it to "top up" the batteries, and not as a primary source of your needs. Of course a 15 watt panel will not run a boat full of toys, air conditioning and 2 fridges, but there's more than enough sun through the week to keep the batteries charged up for next weekend.
If your bilge pump is wired directly to a battery, the panel switch should be in the "off" position when you're not there.
The "best" battery? The one that costs $59.00 for 750AH, and comes with a 5 year warranty. If you find that, let me know! Local availability may vary....
Cheers
Gary
The deep cycle battery, used for house and electronics, should never be allowed to fall below 50% of it's rating, as doing so will prevent the battery from coming back to 100% charge. It may only come back to 99.5%, but next time it's run down into the ground, it may only come back to 99.5% of the 99.5% that it started from and so on. It may seem tiny, but do this every weekend and suddenly a three year warranty on a battery is being exercised well before it should be, and your time is worth something, driving around looking for a replacement when you could be boating.....
A deep cycle battery is intended to provide a steady supply of current for a long time, while a starting battery is intended to supply a jolt of current, right now, to get the 'ol diesel spinning.
A dual charge controller (We have a SunSaver Duo) allows a single input to connect to two batteries, and the charge controller is capable of dealing with each battery separately.
I'll go on record as telling that we had an 11 watt panel on our M26c, a single battery, with an older style charge controller, and I got 7 years out of that battery. I believe that is the exception, rather than the rule. A good charge controller and a 15 watt panel is quite possibly enough to keep both batteries fully charged, if you use it to "top up" the batteries, and not as a primary source of your needs. Of course a 15 watt panel will not run a boat full of toys, air conditioning and 2 fridges, but there's more than enough sun through the week to keep the batteries charged up for next weekend.
If your bilge pump is wired directly to a battery, the panel switch should be in the "off" position when you're not there.
The "best" battery? The one that costs $59.00 for 750AH, and comes with a 5 year warranty. If you find that, let me know! Local availability may vary....
Cheers
Gary
There really is no need for a "starting battery" with a small diesel AUX engine. A deep cycle will last longer and will work far better in an emergency when or it it is needed for that. Remember that with a sailboat the "start" battery may also be needed as an emergency battery and could be called on to cycle. Even the smallest deep cycle has oodles more starting capacity than is needed for a small diesel...
My 2 cents too as you can be cheap and buy cheap batteries, or buy real expensive ones! But if you don't maintain the charge or overcharge them you have junk! I have read all that MAINSAIL had to say on this and believe me hes got lots to say,
a phone call to a pal of mine at GLOBE UNION/now dba Johnson controls, He stated as said many of times overcharging and severally draining and the recharging wrong way will shorten the life of any lead acid marine battery's Yes there are lots of real expensive cool batteries out there and technology in the works but Lead acid still has its place as a cost effective marine battery when used properly.
And with that dot use a trickle charger!
Use a marine grade battery charging maintenance system,got ours on our Catalina 27 on the bulkhead wall right behind the battery locker sweet set up and no boiling out of batteries!
Good luck
a phone call to a pal of mine at GLOBE UNION/now dba Johnson controls, He stated as said many of times overcharging and severally draining and the recharging wrong way will shorten the life of any lead acid marine battery's Yes there are lots of real expensive cool batteries out there and technology in the works but Lead acid still has its place as a cost effective marine battery when used properly.
And with that dot use a trickle charger!
Use a marine grade battery charging maintenance system,got ours on our Catalina 27 on the bulkhead wall right behind the battery locker sweet set up and no boiling out of batteries!
Good luck
Check the manufacturer specs on your outboard model. My outboard has an electric starter, but it normally starts by the third pull of the cord. I rarely use the starter button unless I'm out for an afternoon only. Having said that, I checked to make sure the requirements of my Yamaha matched my battery.
I have two group 24's marine deep cycles from Costco, wired in parallel through a 1-all-2-off switch. More than enough to start an outboard, plenty for extended weekends at the Channel islands.
You don't need to care about CCA. Even the smallest garden tractor battery will start your motor. Even the smallest group 24 deep cycle marine battery will start a Cummins 260HP turbo diesel... Done it a few times.....