What a find! - Port Light Fix

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Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
I'm planning to take "Strider" far enough offshore at times that the original Beckson ports aren't strong enough to be safe. I can't face the cost and work of replacing all 10 of them with metal. Besides, most of my trips will be northeast to cold waters and climate and the plastic ports won't sweat.

My plan is to make Lexan covers for each port that attach with four screws to put over them for operation offshore or in heavy coastal conditions. Because of the protruding spigot inside the trim ring, I'll need to make a second plastic ring, the shape of the trim ring, but thicker. The force of any wave impact will then be carried directly to the house side structure.

Linen & Things is closing in Portland, last day Sunday, 28 December. I went out to look for plastic cutting boards at cheap prices thinking those would make good spacer rings. Appearance isn't too important as these covers will only be used offshore.

All the kitchen stuff was gone and they were down to just things like sheets and pillow cases in odd colors. I was about to leave when I noticed the sign saying that all the store fixtures were for sale. Right there were several large bins for pillows about 8 x 4 feet with clear plastic sides and dividers about chest high. For 40 bucks, I now have a huge supply of clear plastic, probably acrylic. There is enough 3/16" to make all the spacer rings and enough 3/8 to make all the covers. There is also a good bit of 1/2" which is wide enough the smaller ports or to use for some other project.

If any of you are near Portland, you might want to go out and take a look this weekend. There is a lot of plastic out there and it's just going to get cheaper. I would have waited except that I have to go to Boston tomorrow.

BTW does anyone have any tips or recommendations on the best kind of saw for working Acrylic?
 
Sep 25, 2008
544
Bristol 43.3 Perth Amboy
Saws

I've used a sabersaw and a router. At high speeds, the plastic tends to melt a bit. I'd be interested in others that have better techniques.
 
Oct 2, 2008
3,811
Pearson/ 530 Strafford, NH
Acrylic

I have used a variable speed saber saw and a variable speed belt sander both at low speed to fashion acrylic and lexan. These were old tools I just never replaced and they seem to be useful. If melting is a problem you may have to recut your piece.
All U Get
 

Marcia

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Mar 26, 2007
123
Paceship Yachts PY23 Cove Marina, NAB, Norfolk VA
Linens and Things are going out of business here in the Virginia Beach, VA area too. Perhaps they all are going away. Congratulations on your "find"!
 
T

tsmwebb

My plan is to make Lexan covers for each port that attach with four screws to put over them for operation offshore or in heavy coastal conditions.

BTW does anyone have any tips or recommendations on the best kind of saw for working Acrylic?
I've got lexan storm covers for my pilot house ports. They are attached with bolts that thread into frames around the windows. I use over sized holes through the lexan and large washers and have put weather stripping around the back of the lexan where it meets the frame. Lexan is a bit thermally unstable and it will groan and work if you screw it directly to fiberglass and you may have problems with cracking around the screw holes if they are tight. My covers are not completely sealed so they can drain and vapor can get out. I suppose it would be really good to fill up the space with inert gas or a vacuum but that seems way too complicated...

Lexan is easy to work. Try not to burn it. I've had pretty good success using a jig saw with a rotary action and fine toothed blades. When you get new sheet palstic it has contact paper on it to prevent scratching. You might want to put some on yours to prevent tool marks.

--Tom.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
For straight cut a circular saw is excellant. My band saw cuts lexan very cleanly. I can break the sharp edges with a small hand plane. I found it easy to cut a 2 foot radius with a 7 1/4 inch circular saw set to just barely cut through 3/16 lexan.
 
Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
Roger-

Don't forget to countersink/chamfer the holes you drill in the acrylic for the fasteners. Doing so will help prevent the holes from becoming starting points for stress cracks. Chamfering the outer cut edges isn't a bad idea either. :)

Don't forget that you'll want to drill the fastener holes oversized and use a washer so that the acrylic can expand and contract with the temperature changes.
 
Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
I just bought a 4'X8' piece of 1/2" plastic for a project for an invention, but I am only going to use a small section of it. I made sure I got UV stabilized for use outdoors. The sheet cost $195. I am thinking of building a hard dodger with it.
What do you guys think the best clear plastic is for the ports? I asked about Lexan at the plastic supply company. I think it was around $150 a 4'x8' sheet, 3/16" thick.
Also this is a long shot but I know alot of you are engineers and some in the boat building business, do you know where I can download a solid model of a catalina 30, like an IGES or .stp file?
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
What do you guys think the best clear plastic is for the ports?
MR 10 Lexan. It has a UV and scratch resistant layer on each side. The outer layers are not a laminate that can separate but some sort of treatment to the plastic itself. It is intended for building windows so it should last a suitable time in a boat. I was able to order it at a regular car and building window place.
 
Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
I'd second using MR10 Lexan or other polycarbonate, like Makrolon. Another place you can often get it is a sign making supply vendor, like Hart Supply in Hingham, MA.
 
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