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Do you tie knots in the rode every 10 feet? *yks
I use a piece of number 36 nylon siene twine wrapped about six turns for the first boat length and 2 sections of that for the second length and three for the third length, Then 4, for number 5 I made a six turn wrap with a knot in each end of the twine for number 6 two wraps and knots and so on. That way I can know in the dark where I am.
I use a piece of number 36 nylon siene twine wrapped about six turns for the first boat length and 2 sections of that for the second length and three for the third length, Then 4, for number 5 I made a six turn wrap with a knot in each end of the twine for number 6 two wraps and knots and so on. That way I can know in the dark where I am.
I buy them
I marked mine with the labeled markers available in most any marine store. I set the first one at 50', which is a good starting point, then worked in the remainder at 10' increments. No guessing how many knots I've counted or trying to remember what my systems is when it's blowing like stink and I'm hustling to get the anchor set. The numbers are in large letters so no question about reading them, even in the dark.
I marked mine with the labeled markers available in most any marine store. I set the first one at 50', which is a good starting point, then worked in the remainder at 10' increments. No guessing how many knots I've counted or trying to remember what my systems is when it's blowing like stink and I'm hustling to get the anchor set. The numbers are in large letters so no question about reading them, even in the dark.
When it is blowing like stink I just pay out rode
until the anchor grabs and the boat stops. I have 300 feet of 5/8 laid nylon. I let out a bunch and snub it, if it doesn't grab I let out some more. When it grabs I cleat it and make sure it is tight and go below.
until the anchor grabs and the boat stops. I have 300 feet of 5/8 laid nylon. I let out a bunch and snub it, if it doesn't grab I let out some more. When it grabs I cleat it and make sure it is tight and go below.
First thing on my mind is the size of my anchor.
I have three sizes of bruce claws. I have an O'Day 25 on a lake with winds from 0 to 35 knots. I use different anchors for different reasons. I have a 4.4 lb, an 11 lb, and a 16lb, The 4.4 and the 11 both have 10 feet of 1/4" chain and 40 feet nylon rode. The 16# has 20 feet of chain and forty feet of rode. I have three more hanks of 40' rode in my locker should I need it. 7 to 1 is always on my mind but during the day I anchor with the minimum. I am there, aware, and ready to deal should something drag. In the light conditions when I am fishing or stopped for lunch ( we normally just drift for lunch) I will drop the 4.4# off the stern to keep what ever breeze is blowing in the cockpit. Usually at about a 5 to 1. At night when I know the winds gusts will be under 20 knots, I will use the 11# off the bow with atlaeast a 7 to 1 with extra rode should it break free. Here the catch! if it breaks free I motor up and pull it up to make sure it is not fouled or full of grass. Then I reset it at atleast a 9 to 1. ( sometimes scope can make up for an anchor that is too small). If I know that gusts will exceed 20 knots, the 16#er comes out and is set at atleast 7 to 1 . I have anchored a 14 boat raft up with my 16# bruce with a 9 to 1 scope in 10 knot winds, to watch fire works. I have have one bad experience anchoring for my self. One night last year I anchored in 8 feet of water with about a 9 to 1 scope with my 11# anchor. The winds were steady but increased to about 20 knots. I woke up about 10 feet from shore in about 4' of water. Because I was single handing, the wife was sound asleep, I could not pull up the anchor and make it back to run the engine, I chose to motor over the anchor with out pulling it up to free it. Once an anchor is free, it kind of flys through the water. Once I had it free I made a slight turn so that the rode would not come up in my prop. I moved about 300 yards up wind and then went forward to clear the anchor. It was full of grass. Once cleared, I dropped it again with all the line I had on it and went back to the tiller and motored forward so that the anchor could hit the bottom . then I slowly took off the power until I had a tight anchor line. I watch things for about 10 minutes then went back to bed. Good anchoring, it is the best, about 2 nights a week 6 months a year. r.w.landau
I have three sizes of bruce claws. I have an O'Day 25 on a lake with winds from 0 to 35 knots. I use different anchors for different reasons. I have a 4.4 lb, an 11 lb, and a 16lb, The 4.4 and the 11 both have 10 feet of 1/4" chain and 40 feet nylon rode. The 16# has 20 feet of chain and forty feet of rode. I have three more hanks of 40' rode in my locker should I need it. 7 to 1 is always on my mind but during the day I anchor with the minimum. I am there, aware, and ready to deal should something drag. In the light conditions when I am fishing or stopped for lunch ( we normally just drift for lunch) I will drop the 4.4# off the stern to keep what ever breeze is blowing in the cockpit. Usually at about a 5 to 1. At night when I know the winds gusts will be under 20 knots, I will use the 11# off the bow with atlaeast a 7 to 1 with extra rode should it break free. Here the catch! if it breaks free I motor up and pull it up to make sure it is not fouled or full of grass. Then I reset it at atleast a 9 to 1. ( sometimes scope can make up for an anchor that is too small). If I know that gusts will exceed 20 knots, the 16#er comes out and is set at atleast 7 to 1 . I have anchored a 14 boat raft up with my 16# bruce with a 9 to 1 scope in 10 knot winds, to watch fire works. I have have one bad experience anchoring for my self. One night last year I anchored in 8 feet of water with about a 9 to 1 scope with my 11# anchor. The winds were steady but increased to about 20 knots. I woke up about 10 feet from shore in about 4' of water. Because I was single handing, the wife was sound asleep, I could not pull up the anchor and make it back to run the engine, I chose to motor over the anchor with out pulling it up to free it. Once an anchor is free, it kind of flys through the water. Once I had it free I made a slight turn so that the rode would not come up in my prop. I moved about 300 yards up wind and then went forward to clear the anchor. It was full of grass. Once cleared, I dropped it again with all the line I had on it and went back to the tiller and motored forward so that the anchor could hit the bottom . then I slowly took off the power until I had a tight anchor line. I watch things for about 10 minutes then went back to bed. Good anchoring, it is the best, about 2 nights a week 6 months a year. r.w.landau
Don't like to guess
Ross I don't like to guess in those conditions. I use a Fortress that bites pretty quick so just paying out more rode won't cut it. I want to know she'll hold so setting proper scope is critical to both that function and a good nights sleep. Why go through all the trouble to mark the rode as you do if you're just going to guess? Mike
Ross I don't like to guess in those conditions. I use a Fortress that bites pretty quick so just paying out more rode won't cut it. I want to know she'll hold so setting proper scope is critical to both that function and a good nights sleep. Why go through all the trouble to mark the rode as you do if you're just going to guess? Mike
Hi Jerry, a kellet, also known as a sentinel,...
is a weight that is attached to the anchor rode several feet from the anchor. Its purpose is to increase catenary. I use a 20 pound lead fisherman's ball with a carabiner that I clip onto the anchor rode after setting the anchor. It will slide down the rope to the shackle that connects the rope to the 50 feet of chain. Some old timers refer to it as the sailor's sleeping pill. Terry
is a weight that is attached to the anchor rode several feet from the anchor. Its purpose is to increase catenary. I use a 20 pound lead fisherman's ball with a carabiner that I clip onto the anchor rode after setting the anchor. It will slide down the rope to the shackle that connects the rope to the 50 feet of chain. Some old timers refer to it as the sailor's sleeping pill. Terry
An opinion about anchoring.
My dad was never very good at anchoring. That is why I have made it a point to learn about it. He was and is a good boater but always anchored below what was needed. First, Using the right anchor is the right way to go. When you look a sizes for boat anchors, they recommend a size for you. Do you know the conditions that they are assuming? Most anchors are sized for a boat in 30 knot winds. If you know or if there is a chance that the spec anchor will not hold, what would you do next? Next point Kellets/Sentinal is something else you have to deal with in the middle of the night in adverse conditions should you anchor set fail. Dad liked to anchor with the two anchors at 45 degree angles with minimum scope. The problem is most boats sail at anchor. This puts full load on each anchor at different times. When I sailed with my dad, I slept in the cockpit with my foot on the wheel. That let me know when we were aground. (this happen twice at Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas.) Then I could ask dad to reanchor. The problem was it was a three man operation in the middle of the night and sometimes after a cocktail/s. One at the helm, and one each on the two anchors to retrieve them. Sometimes that was not pretty. My suggestion is to keep it simple, use one anchor that will do the job and that is retrievable in a bad situation. r.w.landau
My dad was never very good at anchoring. That is why I have made it a point to learn about it. He was and is a good boater but always anchored below what was needed. First, Using the right anchor is the right way to go. When you look a sizes for boat anchors, they recommend a size for you. Do you know the conditions that they are assuming? Most anchors are sized for a boat in 30 knot winds. If you know or if there is a chance that the spec anchor will not hold, what would you do next? Next point Kellets/Sentinal is something else you have to deal with in the middle of the night in adverse conditions should you anchor set fail. Dad liked to anchor with the two anchors at 45 degree angles with minimum scope. The problem is most boats sail at anchor. This puts full load on each anchor at different times. When I sailed with my dad, I slept in the cockpit with my foot on the wheel. That let me know when we were aground. (this happen twice at Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas.) Then I could ask dad to reanchor. The problem was it was a three man operation in the middle of the night and sometimes after a cocktail/s. One at the helm, and one each on the two anchors to retrieve them. Sometimes that was not pretty. My suggestion is to keep it simple, use one anchor that will do the job and that is retrievable in a bad situation. r.w.landau
Anchoring
I think that many of us consider only our own locations when we discuss anchoring. I can not remember the last time I drug an anchor, but it has been a good long time. As I am known to do with other stuff, I go at least one size up on my anchor also. And I have a different primary for different locations. Here on the Gulf Coast, the holding is most of the time very good, and my primary anchor is a Danforth. In Fla. or where there is a lot of grass, I use a plow. Again, a lot bigger than the recommended size. I also do not normally have the problem of crowded anchorages, so I use lots of scope. My rode is marked every 50 feet. Normal anchoring depth for me is around 10'. So I let out 100' of rode, and then a little extra, let the anchor grab and then back down on it hard. For me, it seems that if I let the anchor grab first, then back down hard, I get a good solid set. I sleep well, and never worry about it. The biggest problem that I see with others dragging is they just throw the thing over the side, many times fouling the chain/rode in the flukes or on the shank. Then soon as it hits bottom, they just cleat it off. And we all know what this leads to.
I think that many of us consider only our own locations when we discuss anchoring. I can not remember the last time I drug an anchor, but it has been a good long time. As I am known to do with other stuff, I go at least one size up on my anchor also. And I have a different primary for different locations. Here on the Gulf Coast, the holding is most of the time very good, and my primary anchor is a Danforth. In Fla. or where there is a lot of grass, I use a plow. Again, a lot bigger than the recommended size. I also do not normally have the problem of crowded anchorages, so I use lots of scope. My rode is marked every 50 feet. Normal anchoring depth for me is around 10'. So I let out 100' of rode, and then a little extra, let the anchor grab and then back down on it hard. For me, it seems that if I let the anchor grab first, then back down hard, I get a good solid set. I sleep well, and never worry about it. The biggest problem that I see with others dragging is they just throw the thing over the side, many times fouling the chain/rode in the flukes or on the shank. Then soon as it hits bottom, they just cleat it off. And we all know what this leads to.
Why three of the same anchor?
Landau, Why carry three anchors of the same design? It would be lighter just to carry the largest one. Bruce are good except rock bottom. I would carry a Bruce and a CQR for rocks.
Landau, Why carry three anchors of the same design? It would be lighter just to carry the largest one. Bruce are good except rock bottom. I would carry a Bruce and a CQR for rocks.
Bottom More Important than Anchor!!!!
In my experience the bottom is far more important than the anchor. Nice sticky mud can't be beat!!!!! Also a lot of scope is fine for a clean bottom but during wind shifts I have had my rode wrap around stuff on the bottom. If you snagged something sharp it could cut or wear through a nylon rode!!!! Since most of my esperience is in lakes I like a deep cove protected 360 degrees and ideally I like to tie to a tree on shore. In Mobile bay we never had any problems. But we did drag one night in Andrews Bay after a wind shift as a thunderstorm passed through. At Fort Mccree near Pensacola we had a hard time getting our plow to set. Thick grass on the bottom but the Danforth set first try. We now use a 33# Claw as the primary anchor. I did experiment with using a 7# mushroom anchor as a kellet. Snapped it the anchor chain using a carabiner. But we never had any serious wind while using a kellet. But IMHO location is far more important than ground tackle. The night we dragged we were in a very exposed anchorage behind Shell Island. Only a low sand dune between us and the ocean. We were extremely lucky that the anchors failed when the wind was blowing us out away from shore. For the record we had out a large Danforth and a plow. The danforth had speared a large conch and didn't reset. The plow seemed to be sliding on it's side across the grass. We are still using the Danforth ,the plow is in the garage and in it's place we have the Claw. So far we haven't experienced a strong storm wind shift using the Claw. But with the tidal changes and lower intensity wind shifts that we have experienced the Claw has always reset itself!!! It may be luck but the Claw has always set first time. I do try to find a grass free area in which to anchor.
In my experience the bottom is far more important than the anchor. Nice sticky mud can't be beat!!!!! Also a lot of scope is fine for a clean bottom but during wind shifts I have had my rode wrap around stuff on the bottom. If you snagged something sharp it could cut or wear through a nylon rode!!!! Since most of my esperience is in lakes I like a deep cove protected 360 degrees and ideally I like to tie to a tree on shore. In Mobile bay we never had any problems. But we did drag one night in Andrews Bay after a wind shift as a thunderstorm passed through. At Fort Mccree near Pensacola we had a hard time getting our plow to set. Thick grass on the bottom but the Danforth set first try. We now use a 33# Claw as the primary anchor. I did experiment with using a 7# mushroom anchor as a kellet. Snapped it the anchor chain using a carabiner. But we never had any serious wind while using a kellet. But IMHO location is far more important than ground tackle. The night we dragged we were in a very exposed anchorage behind Shell Island. Only a low sand dune between us and the ocean. We were extremely lucky that the anchors failed when the wind was blowing us out away from shore. For the record we had out a large Danforth and a plow. The danforth had speared a large conch and didn't reset. The plow seemed to be sliding on it's side across the grass. We are still using the Danforth ,the plow is in the garage and in it's place we have the Claw. So far we haven't experienced a strong storm wind shift using the Claw. But with the tidal changes and lower intensity wind shifts that we have experienced the Claw has always reset itself!!! It may be luck but the Claw has always set first time. I do try to find a grass free area in which to anchor.
A comical anchoring story...
A few weeks ago I was at anchor on Spencer Spit in the San Juan Islands for a few days. A larger power boat came in one of the days with a couple and they dropped anchor about 50 yards away. They later went ashore and I was doing my usual stuff around the boat. After a few hours I happened to look up and observed the power boat moving backwards towards another boat. I yelled at a boat neighbor whether anybody was aboard and she said no. I dashed for the boat in my dinghy to try for a rescue. Just as I approached the boat ready to board, the boating couple arrived and boarded. They thanked me for my ne'er do well save. A moment later the young skipper yelled to me saying, "the incoming tide lifted his anchor off the bottom". His comment took me back to my early boating days when a similar thing happened to me. Experience and the sailors who visit and contribute to this site have taught me so much. Thank you. Terry
A few weeks ago I was at anchor on Spencer Spit in the San Juan Islands for a few days. A larger power boat came in one of the days with a couple and they dropped anchor about 50 yards away. They later went ashore and I was doing my usual stuff around the boat. After a few hours I happened to look up and observed the power boat moving backwards towards another boat. I yelled at a boat neighbor whether anybody was aboard and she said no. I dashed for the boat in my dinghy to try for a rescue. Just as I approached the boat ready to board, the boating couple arrived and boarded. They thanked me for my ne'er do well save. A moment later the young skipper yelled to me saying, "the incoming tide lifted his anchor off the bottom". His comment took me back to my early boating days when a similar thing happened to me. Experience and the sailors who visit and contribute to this site have taught me so much. Thank you. Terry
Alex, I sail on an inland lake. The bottom is
mustly mud. I have three anchors because I anchor frequently in different places, mostly to fish on calm days, and I am getting old and lazy
. I would much rather pull up a 4# anchor than a larger anchor. Larger anchors are for a good night sleep! If I did carry another anchor it would be a CQR. hold fast, r.w.landau
mustly mud. I have three anchors because I anchor frequently in different places, mostly to fish on calm days, and I am getting old and lazy
. I would much rather pull up a 4# anchor than a larger anchor. Larger anchors are for a good night sleep! If I did carry another anchor it would be a CQR. hold fast, r.w.landau
It depends
If we are staying in the same spot for a few days and are in a well protected cove or inlet we prefer a mooring ball or anchor. Our primary for sand and mud is a Fortress 16 which has never failed even when turning 360 degrees over a couple of days. For weeds, rocks, gravel we carry a Davis Talon (similar to a Delta plow), but have never used it. Normal scope is 5:1 up to 7:1. In crowded anchorages where we are really protected we have successfully used 3:1, but I wouldn't want to do it in any kind of wind. Mooring balls have the disadvantage that someone else has decided where to place it, but the advantage that you can sleep soundly knowing that the mooring will not drag, even in a storm. Since we have a dog aboard and need to get to shore at least three times a day, we will take shore access into consideration when picking a spot to drop the hook. If we are on a long trip and will not be in any one location for more than overnight we will usually tie up at a dock. This makes getting the dog ashore easier and allows for easier departures--we don't have a power windlass so it is all arm power to get the anchor back on board.
If we are staying in the same spot for a few days and are in a well protected cove or inlet we prefer a mooring ball or anchor. Our primary for sand and mud is a Fortress 16 which has never failed even when turning 360 degrees over a couple of days. For weeds, rocks, gravel we carry a Davis Talon (similar to a Delta plow), but have never used it. Normal scope is 5:1 up to 7:1. In crowded anchorages where we are really protected we have successfully used 3:1, but I wouldn't want to do it in any kind of wind. Mooring balls have the disadvantage that someone else has decided where to place it, but the advantage that you can sleep soundly knowing that the mooring will not drag, even in a storm. Since we have a dog aboard and need to get to shore at least three times a day, we will take shore access into consideration when picking a spot to drop the hook. If we are on a long trip and will not be in any one location for more than overnight we will usually tie up at a dock. This makes getting the dog ashore easier and allows for easier departures--we don't have a power windlass so it is all arm power to get the anchor back on board.
LOTS OF CHAIN
I have found that what seems to be a poorly setting anchor on a particular bottom will improve greatly by having lots of chain to weight it down and flatten the angle of the road. I have an oday 39 and I have achored all over biscayne bay and up and down keys with a west marine danforth 22 lb with 50 ft of chain and never dragged even in 40 kts, if severe weather is exptected I also lay down my delta also with 50 ft of chain but that one does not hold like the danforth for the most part in this area. the boat had a bruce 33 Lb with no chain on the road when I bought it, any time I was trying to anchor in grass it would drag allot before it set, after I added 50 ft of chain it would set right away. but then hurricane dennis took my anchors in key west and I went to danforth and delta arrangement I have now but it's the 50 ft of chain that really makes the difference. My only regret is getting only 50' of chain on each one, next time I'm getting 100'. you sleep well on lots of chain.
I have found that what seems to be a poorly setting anchor on a particular bottom will improve greatly by having lots of chain to weight it down and flatten the angle of the road. I have an oday 39 and I have achored all over biscayne bay and up and down keys with a west marine danforth 22 lb with 50 ft of chain and never dragged even in 40 kts, if severe weather is exptected I also lay down my delta also with 50 ft of chain but that one does not hold like the danforth for the most part in this area. the boat had a bruce 33 Lb with no chain on the road when I bought it, any time I was trying to anchor in grass it would drag allot before it set, after I added 50 ft of chain it would set right away. but then hurricane dennis took my anchors in key west and I went to danforth and delta arrangement I have now but it's the 50 ft of chain that really makes the difference. My only regret is getting only 50' of chain on each one, next time I'm getting 100'. you sleep well on lots of chain.
technique
On a Bristol 40, have used a 35 lb CQR with 10 feet of chain for 35 yrs. Never dragged once. I've been anchored in 70+ knot winds. The key is plenty of rhode, remembering to add depth of water at high tide plus freeboard into the equation. I always set the anchor by putting out at least 6:1 and backing down until it grabs out of my hand. I test it multiple times to dig it in. Then add some more if there is room. Chaffing gear on the nylon rhode. Never used a kellet.
On a Bristol 40, have used a 35 lb CQR with 10 feet of chain for 35 yrs. Never dragged once. I've been anchored in 70+ knot winds. The key is plenty of rhode, remembering to add depth of water at high tide plus freeboard into the equation. I always set the anchor by putting out at least 6:1 and backing down until it grabs out of my hand. I test it multiple times to dig it in. Then add some more if there is room. Chaffing gear on the nylon rhode. Never used a kellet.
The often seen statement , "I have been (fill in the
blank here ) for years and have never(Fill in another blank)", is a lot like the folks who observe that, "that tree has been there for a hundred years and it never blew down in a storm before!" There is always a first time, and sometimes that proves to be the last time. Never allow your self to become complacent. If you have doubts about the reliability of a system don't hesitate to improve it. If someone else expresses concern about one of your systems consider it carefully.
blank here ) for years and have never(Fill in another blank)", is a lot like the folks who observe that, "that tree has been there for a hundred years and it never blew down in a storm before!" There is always a first time, and sometimes that proves to be the last time. Never allow your self to become complacent. If you have doubts about the reliability of a system don't hesitate to improve it. If someone else expresses concern about one of your systems consider it carefully.
I use a Bruce
I use a 36 lb Bruce and 50 feet of chain on our '93 Hunter 30T. The remainder of the rode is nylon line. I agree with R.W Landau. Use one anchor and keep it simple. We anchor overnight often and this works for us in our area. One point not mentioned by the others is the windlass. I have a manual one that I had installed (Anchorman by Lewmar). I believe that a windlass is essential on any boat using a heavy anchor and chain. This is a safety and security issue. We anchor often in dodgy situations, weedy bottoms, rocky, etc. but have not had a problem since we started using the heavy (for our boat) anchor and chain. Anchoring in weeds we do not back down on the anchor after lowering it and paying out the rode. We just let it set. This allows it to cut through the weeds. If I back down too soon, the anchor just loads up with weeds. The only problem I have found with the Bruce is that sometimes (rarely) it will cradle a rock in its three flukes, preventing deep digging and making retrieval difficult. Our area is eastern Lake Ontario, Bay of Quinte, St Lawrence River. Very weedy by mid-summer.
I use a 36 lb Bruce and 50 feet of chain on our '93 Hunter 30T. The remainder of the rode is nylon line. I agree with R.W Landau. Use one anchor and keep it simple. We anchor overnight often and this works for us in our area. One point not mentioned by the others is the windlass. I have a manual one that I had installed (Anchorman by Lewmar). I believe that a windlass is essential on any boat using a heavy anchor and chain. This is a safety and security issue. We anchor often in dodgy situations, weedy bottoms, rocky, etc. but have not had a problem since we started using the heavy (for our boat) anchor and chain. Anchoring in weeds we do not back down on the anchor after lowering it and paying out the rode. We just let it set. This allows it to cut through the weeds. If I back down too soon, the anchor just loads up with weeds. The only problem I have found with the Bruce is that sometimes (rarely) it will cradle a rock in its three flukes, preventing deep digging and making retrieval difficult. Our area is eastern Lake Ontario, Bay of Quinte, St Lawrence River. Very weedy by mid-summer.
Mooring ball reliability
Someone mentioned sleeping soundly on a mooring ball. I used to adopt this same mindset. Every mooring ball and chain and anchor are installed correctly and maintained regularly, right? When cruising in the Bahamas, I came across several people offering mooring ball rental with the understanding that if you break it, you pay for it. Talking to the locals, I learned that many of these balls are never maintained, that is, until you break it. I was on a mooring ball at a state park in the Florida Keys. When I went ashore, the park ranger asked if that was my boat on the mooring. He then suggested I also put out an anchor. His boating experience seemed somewhat limited, but he did assure me that boats regularly broke off these moorings and were blown aground. So much for sleeping soundly.
Someone mentioned sleeping soundly on a mooring ball. I used to adopt this same mindset. Every mooring ball and chain and anchor are installed correctly and maintained regularly, right? When cruising in the Bahamas, I came across several people offering mooring ball rental with the understanding that if you break it, you pay for it. Talking to the locals, I learned that many of these balls are never maintained, that is, until you break it. I was on a mooring ball at a state park in the Florida Keys. When I went ashore, the park ranger asked if that was my boat on the mooring. He then suggested I also put out an anchor. His boating experience seemed somewhat limited, but he did assure me that boats regularly broke off these moorings and were blown aground. So much for sleeping soundly.
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