Given the known tenderness of the 1983 Hunter 34's (shoal draft) Would you put a 155% jib (roller furled) on your H 34? We have owned ours for 7 yrs and have been frustrated with the light air performance with a 110% jib in the summer here in our mid-Texas lake. However the 110% is just right for moderate 15-25 mph winds. A "certain sailmaker" suggests the 155% to help balance the boat which also has a good bit of weather helm. If you own a H 34 of the mid 80's let me know what you have or suggest. Thanks! Charles L. Duhon www.ArtistryMarineArt.com
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Rick Sylvester
Yes and no
We sail a 1985 shoal draft 40 (very similar boat) with a 150. First of all, this tenderness issue is a little overblown. These boats simply have a big sail plan and are easily overcanvassed in a blow. Frankly, I appreciate the ability to have my cake and eat it too. The 150 keeps us moving in the light stuff when everybody else is motoring and we just reef early when needed. No big deal. However, we are going to put a foam luff in to maintain shape when heavily reefed though. It won't be as good as the 110 (we have one too) in a real blow but it'll do pretty well. If you're a serious racer you'll want to actually change your headsail to suit the conditions and get that last bit of pointing ability, but you probably aready knew that. A *bigger* genoa to relieve weather helm? Uh-uh. I don't buy it. Weather helm is a product of center of effort being too far aft and excessive heeling causing that effort to "pull" the mast around (rounding up.) A bigger genoa will aggravate both conditions. If you've got severe weather helm you need to tune your rig, depower your sails or reduce sail area depending on when it happens.
We sail a 1985 shoal draft 40 (very similar boat) with a 150. First of all, this tenderness issue is a little overblown. These boats simply have a big sail plan and are easily overcanvassed in a blow. Frankly, I appreciate the ability to have my cake and eat it too. The 150 keeps us moving in the light stuff when everybody else is motoring and we just reef early when needed. No big deal. However, we are going to put a foam luff in to maintain shape when heavily reefed though. It won't be as good as the 110 (we have one too) in a real blow but it'll do pretty well. If you're a serious racer you'll want to actually change your headsail to suit the conditions and get that last bit of pointing ability, but you probably aready knew that. A *bigger* genoa to relieve weather helm? Uh-uh. I don't buy it. Weather helm is a product of center of effort being too far aft and excessive heeling causing that effort to "pull" the mast around (rounding up.) A bigger genoa will aggravate both conditions. If you've got severe weather helm you need to tune your rig, depower your sails or reduce sail area depending on when it happens.
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Barry
I Vote NO for 155%
I have an h34 deep draft on a lake. Was also frustrated with with the original 110 headsail in light air. My surveyor (who owns a h31) told me not to go bigger than 135% if I ordered a new sail. Well I came upon a used 155 from a Catalina 36. The price was right so I got it and used it for 7 years. Had to put patches where it wears on the lower spreaders. It's too big in wind over 12 knots. I sailed in 18-22 with only that headsail and still had weather helm caused by too much sail. If you go bigger than 135 keep your old 110 around for windy days. If you're a cruiser 135 is plenty. If you're a racer have several sails. I use a cruising spinnaker occasionally. Barry
I have an h34 deep draft on a lake. Was also frustrated with with the original 110 headsail in light air. My surveyor (who owns a h31) told me not to go bigger than 135% if I ordered a new sail. Well I came upon a used 155 from a Catalina 36. The price was right so I got it and used it for 7 years. Had to put patches where it wears on the lower spreaders. It's too big in wind over 12 knots. I sailed in 18-22 with only that headsail and still had weather helm caused by too much sail. If you go bigger than 135 keep your old 110 around for windy days. If you're a cruiser 135 is plenty. If you're a racer have several sails. I use a cruising spinnaker occasionally. Barry
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Joe Baker
150 on H-34
We sure like our roller furled foam luff 150!! Racing requires a whisker pole. Tenderness seems to be a figment!! We still can't get the rail in the water!
We sure like our roller furled foam luff 150!! Racing requires a whisker pole. Tenderness seems to be a figment!! We still can't get the rail in the water!
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Marc Honey
135 Second
I second the advice on sticking with a 135. It'll reef down to 100-110 with lots better shape than a 150/155 ever will!
I second the advice on sticking with a 135. It'll reef down to 100-110 with lots better shape than a 150/155 ever will!
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David Foster
Cruising Spinnaker
The Doyle APC is the right answer for cruising. It's truly great for light air reaching, and easy to douse, then unfurl the 110 if the wind picks up, or I you must go to weather. David Lady Lillie
The Doyle APC is the right answer for cruising. It's truly great for light air reaching, and easy to douse, then unfurl the 110 if the wind picks up, or I you must go to weather. David Lady Lillie
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Claude L.-Auger
130 with foam luff for me
I sail my 84 H34 shoal draft solo most of the time and got fed up of the 110. Last year I got a 130 with foam luft and the performance is incredible even when furled down because wind increases above 20. I also ordered a gennaker with a sock and use it any chance I have when running. Good Luck
I sail my 84 H34 shoal draft solo most of the time and got fed up of the 110. Last year I got a 130 with foam luft and the performance is incredible even when furled down because wind increases above 20. I also ordered a gennaker with a sock and use it any chance I have when running. Good Luck
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George B.
Speed Costs, How Fast Can You Afford To To?
First and foremost, I wouldn't buy any sail larger than your local PHRF rule. It will have much less resale value than a "legal" one. I understand that the winds are light for most of the season in the Dallas area. I'd get a size to match the most prevalent conditions. Don't worry about windy days, that's what your 110 is for. Don't get a foam luff - it will detract from very light air performance. If your checkbook can stand it, get a radial cut rather than the standard panel cut. These hang better and will hold their shape better. The sail maker can also vary the cloth weight in the panels, which will also make it hang better. Buy a laminate instead of straight dacron, this will eliminate a lot of drag. If this is going to be truly a light air sail, get a deck sweeping low clew cut. You'll be amazed at the performance difference. If your worried about changing conditions, then get a higher clew. Your excessive weather helm is bothersome. Your current sails/rig might be blown/stretched. You should be able to sail the boat in balance in moderate winds. It is true, a larger jib will give you more drive and move the center of effort forward. If weather helm persists, traveller down and apply more backstay tension. But chances are, your main is blown and you are looking at a bit more than you bargained for.
First and foremost, I wouldn't buy any sail larger than your local PHRF rule. It will have much less resale value than a "legal" one. I understand that the winds are light for most of the season in the Dallas area. I'd get a size to match the most prevalent conditions. Don't worry about windy days, that's what your 110 is for. Don't get a foam luff - it will detract from very light air performance. If your checkbook can stand it, get a radial cut rather than the standard panel cut. These hang better and will hold their shape better. The sail maker can also vary the cloth weight in the panels, which will also make it hang better. Buy a laminate instead of straight dacron, this will eliminate a lot of drag. If this is going to be truly a light air sail, get a deck sweeping low clew cut. You'll be amazed at the performance difference. If your worried about changing conditions, then get a higher clew. Your excessive weather helm is bothersome. Your current sails/rig might be blown/stretched. You should be able to sail the boat in balance in moderate winds. It is true, a larger jib will give you more drive and move the center of effort forward. If weather helm persists, traveller down and apply more backstay tension. But chances are, your main is blown and you are looking at a bit more than you bargained for.
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Scott
Go with the 130-135
We have a very old 150 that is really only usefull in ultralight air - its also a bit baggy due to age. I might mess about with trying to free fly it on a down wind run in light air. The boat feels better under sail with the standard 110 and points better upwind. The leach finaly tore out on ours and I have just purchased a stock sail that works out at about 130. Its about 2'10" shorter so I'll use a couple of pennants to position it on the roller furler. I hope to give it a try this weekend. Scott 83-H34-188 Island Hops PS. Ours is also a shoal keel.
We have a very old 150 that is really only usefull in ultralight air - its also a bit baggy due to age. I might mess about with trying to free fly it on a down wind run in light air. The boat feels better under sail with the standard 110 and points better upwind. The leach finaly tore out on ours and I have just purchased a stock sail that works out at about 130. Its about 2'10" shorter so I'll use a couple of pennants to position it on the roller furler. I hope to give it a try this weekend. Scott 83-H34-188 Island Hops PS. Ours is also a shoal keel.
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Clyde Lichtenwalner
155
For mostly light air sailing, I vote for a reefable 155%. In 12 knot winds we commonly sail upwind with our 155 reefed to 135. Fall off to a reach and unfurl the full sail without changing the sheet lead and you have nearly ideal trim. We have a 110 that has not been on the furler in the last two years.
For mostly light air sailing, I vote for a reefable 155%. In 12 knot winds we commonly sail upwind with our 155 reefed to 135. Fall off to a reach and unfurl the full sail without changing the sheet lead and you have nearly ideal trim. We have a 110 that has not been on the furler in the last two years.
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Ted
155 and 135
I use a laminate 155 in light air and for racing but have a foam luff 135 that I use most of the time when cruising. I also use a Yankee-cut 100 for cruising in higher winds. The 135 will balance and drive the boat without a main very nicely in 10-15 knots.
I use a laminate 155 in light air and for racing but have a foam luff 135 that I use most of the time when cruising. I also use a Yankee-cut 100 for cruising in higher winds. The 135 will balance and drive the boat without a main very nicely in 10-15 knots.
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Mike Cummings
155% Yes
We had a 15 year old roller 150% and we would lose in winds under 12 knots. Purchased a slighty used, light 155% and it has made a big difference including out pointing most boats. We use the roller but tack it to the deck. We have even had it up when a blow came in with 25 knots and we really did not have a lot of helm problems. I really dont think the boat has a helm problem if you have the right sails up and the boat is tuned. Hope this helps.
We had a 15 year old roller 150% and we would lose in winds under 12 knots. Purchased a slighty used, light 155% and it has made a big difference including out pointing most boats. We use the roller but tack it to the deck. We have even had it up when a blow came in with 25 knots and we really did not have a lot of helm problems. I really dont think the boat has a helm problem if you have the right sails up and the boat is tuned. Hope this helps.
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PJ
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