Yep, those are the ones I was talking about. In a closed system like the freshwater system, they are not as big an issue because they won't sink the boat if they fail. On through hull fittings, best to use the more expensive Scnadvik ABA clamps.
Whale Gulper 220 for shower drain with atomatic sensor switch
- Thread starter skunther
- Start date
The Sandvik clamps @dlochner mentions or others that are solid. An example:
Solid Band Heavy Duty Clamps
The hose clamps with the slots besides often not being fully 316 - the attachment to the worm drive is very weak. I won't use this type of clamp anymore. I am sure there are still some around on my boat, but as I go through systems, I replace all of those i find to solid bands.
Break one at the worm gear attachment - typically it's two very thin strips of stainless. These are unreliable clamps.
dj
So now I’m at a fittings impasse. The PVC fittings I purchased are significantly larger diameter than their nylon counterparts of the same indicated measurement. PVC 1-1/4 barb measures 1.45” with calipers, while the nylon one measures just shy of 1.3”. No amount of heat, manipulation, lubricating nor cursing has been adequate to get the 1-1/4” Sierra 141 (measured 1.25” with calipers) onto the supposed 1.25” PVC barb. I have tried boiling water, hair dryer, Vaseline, dish soap, channel locks… the issue is i can only find the parts I need in PVC. Nylon barbed reducers don’t seem to exist from 1-1/4 to 1” and 1” to 3/4”. Much less a reducing t from 1-1/4 x1-1/4 x 1”.
How is it possible there is more than a 10% difference in the diameter of these supposedly identically sized fittings?
Any magic to get these on?
How is it possible there is more than a 10% difference in the diameter of these supposedly identically sized fittings?
Any magic to get these on?
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Ah, the mysteries of hose fittings. I feel your pain. Been down this road.
The PVC barbs are always too large because they are designed for PVC hoses used in wells and other applications which apparently have a different standard for an inch. Perhaps someone can explain the measurement system the PVC Folks are using.
Stick with the nylon fittings. They are a little large for the ID of the hose to ensure a tight fit.
The PVC barbs are always too large because they are designed for PVC hoses used in wells and other applications which apparently have a different standard for an inch. Perhaps someone can explain the measurement system the PVC Folks are using.
Stick with the nylon fittings. They are a little large for the ID of the hose to ensure a tight fit.
I’m trying to connect a 1” hose from my Whale IC pump into this drain.
I’m also trying to connect a 1” hose to this 1-1/4” ID corrugated hose (left hand screw), which is my shower drain. The hose and drain are unfortunately impossible to reach, so this corrugated hose is all I have to work with. I thought I had found a cuff to screw onto it, but the diameter is too large and I apparently need a 1-1/4” left hand thread cuff (the actual OD of the corrugated hose is 1.5”, so I purchased a 1.5” cuff I found, but it seems the measurement indicates the ID of the cuff opening, not the OD of the corrugated hose it screws onto).
I’m also trying to connect a 1” hose to this 1-1/4” ID corrugated hose (left hand screw), which is my shower drain. The hose and drain are unfortunately impossible to reach, so this corrugated hose is all I have to work with. I thought I had found a cuff to screw onto it, but the diameter is too large and I apparently need a 1-1/4” left hand thread cuff (the actual OD of the corrugated hose is 1.5”, so I purchased a 1.5” cuff I found, but it seems the measurement indicates the ID of the cuff opening, not the OD of the corrugated hose it screws onto).
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Where can I find the fittings I need? I have checked everywhere I can think of. 3 different marine supply stores in town, the local hardware bonanza store with folks that actually know things, Ferguson’s, I’ve scoured online…. Nothing. The only thing I’ve found is a 1-1/4 tee. It’s something, but it’s not enough. I need the other fittings I indicated earlier.
This is such a simple job. Just buggered by incompatible fittings.
The only think I can think to do is to somehow enlarge the hoses that I have with some tool so that they will actually fit on the PVC barbs. Does such a tool exist that I could use on marine hose?
I just went through this on a not-a-hunter. Do not try and replicate the original design. Rip it all out. I used standard PVC slip joint pipe and fittings and then standard transition from slip joint to PVC pipe fittings. One fitting. I'll get some photos and send them later.
Some pictures sound great. The issue with tearing everything out is I have no choice regarding the shower drain hose. It is inaccessible. I only have the one and a quarter inch corrugated left-hand turn hose and picture above to work with.
Finally found a solution. A different hose. Apparently the trident and the shield of a slightly smaller diameter and/or are in flexible enough to make it impossible to get the PVC bar fittings into them. I finally picked up some blue water hose. I heated it up in some water for about one minute and it slid right onto the fittings no problem.
www.go2marine.com
Tigerflex BW-Series, Multi-Purpose Hose, Blue/Clear by Kuriyama
Kuriyama Tigerflex BW-Series Multi-Purpose Hose, Blue/Clear, sold by the foot,
Hoses are measured by ID. Tubing is measured by OD. Pipe is measured by ID.
Great!Finally found a solution. A different hose. Apparently the trident and the shield of a slightly smaller diameter and/or are in flexible enough to make it impossible to get the PVC bar fittings into them. I finally picked up some blue water hose. I heated it up in some water for about one minute and it slid right onto the fittings no problem.
Tigerflex BW-Series, Multi-Purpose Hose, Blue/Clear by Kuriyama
Kuriyama Tigerflex BW-Series Multi-Purpose Hose, Blue/Clear, sold by the foot,
Finally got the hoses on.
Now, regarding power, can I just connect to this bus which powers the fridge? We will only use the shower pump while the fridge is on, so I’m fine connecting to the same breaker. The pump does draw 8 amps tho.
Now, regarding power, can I just connect to this bus which powers the fridge? We will only use the shower pump while the fridge is on, so I’m fine connecting to the same breaker. The pump does draw 8 amps tho.
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Why can't you give it a dedicated breaker? Doesn't seem like a good idea to add it to the refrigerator circuit.
There are no available breakers. I suppose I could pull the Loran Decca breaker, but it does have wires attached to it, and I’m not sure where they go and what is going on with that breaker. It doesn’t ever see use. The refrigerator bus is adjacent to where the pump will be located, so it’s very convenient. i’m also not sure of the actual run to the breaker panel from the pump location as I would have to pull a bunch of panels off to access the potential run. It seems like another potential can of worms in an already over complicated project which I can avoid by simply to the refrigerator plus, I would much prefer to.