Whale Gulper 220 for shower drain with atomatic sensor switch

thinwater · May 7, 2023

George Jetson had atomatic sensors.

Honestly, manual makes more sense. You want it to pump until it is dry. A sensor will have a minimum level.

artboas · May 7, 2023

skunther said:
Has anyone set up a shower drain pump with an automatic switch?
I'm looking into installing a Whale Gulper 220 with a flow switch on the shower supply side, but don't know if there might be a better alternative.
I've seen the Whale IC pump with integrated sensor, but have not seen many reviews on this. It seems it might be the easiest to install, but definitely on the pricey side.
Sure, I could install a manual switch, but automatic is the route I prefer.

I HIGHLY recommend the Whale IC for this application
Here is why
A regular sump box used cheap impeller motors, which continually clog up with hair, etc. These are always requiring attention.
The float switches get gummed up with soap, etc
The gulper pump can literally pump pieces of rags through it.
Here is my reccomendation
Get the whale ic with the T fitting adapter. Then, you can run your airco drains through it as well.
In any case, I wouldn’t get the dedicated IC shower drain adapter. It more for use at an OEM level. Get the T fitting, and run your hoses through it.
You will really like this system

dlochner · May 7, 2023

We have and Attwood sump box with a standard bilge pump and an electronic sensor. After replacing the float switch once, we looked for a better solution. The challenge was mounting the sensor to a plastic box. We used a piece of Bed-It butyl tape, works well.

The sump never drains completely, however the box is fairly small, about 8 inches square. Even with a ¼" of water in it, they're not much water. The screen filter catches hair and stuff.

Johann · May 7, 2023

skunther said:
Has anyone set up a shower drain pump with an automatic switch?
I'm looking into installing a Whale Gulper 220 with a flow switch on the shower supply side, but don't know if there might be a better alternative.
I've seen the Whale IC pump with integrated sensor, but have not seen many reviews on this. It seems it might be the easiest to install, but definitely on the pricey side.
Sure, I could install a manual switch, but automatic is the route I prefer.

I installed the Whale IC shower pump a couple of years ago. Works great.

Johann · May 8, 2023

skunther said:
@Johann and @artboas, have you found the Whale IC to be loud?

No… maybe a little louder than the rule bilge pump. Definitely quieter than the water pump.

dlochner · Jun 6, 2024

Trident 144 works well for this application and is easy to work with. go2Marine has it as do most other marine suppliers. Trident 147 is similar with a thicker vinyl casing. 147 is rated for below waterline use, i.e., attached to a below waterline through hull. It is a bit harder to work with, cuts easily with a razor knife, takes more persuasion to get over a barbed hose fitting.

Johann · Jun 6, 2024

skunther said:
Picking this back up. I picked up the Whale IC with manifold. While the manual states to use smooth bore reinforced hose of ID either 1” or 3/4”, I noticed the diameter of the manifold ports is actually 1”, while the pump itself has 3/4” ports. Did you connect either a 1” or 3/4” hose to both ports, or did you have to use multiple hoses and a reducer?

I’d prefer to use a 3/4” hose throughout just to make the install easier.

Also, which hose type to use with this? I was looking at this hose, but it seems it kinks when bent, and I would need to bend it though some tight areas: https://www.go2marine.com/Shields-1...cer?quantity=1&inside-diameter=41&length=1297

I used 1” Trident 147 and it was the wrong choice. It is very difficult to work with in tight locations.

dlochner · Jun 6, 2024

Johann said:
I used 1” Trident 147 and it was the wrong choice. It is very difficult to work with in tight locations.

Yesterday I finished installing new drains in the galley, it was a bit complicated because of a T in the drain for the refrigerator condenser cooling. I used 1 ¼" 147 and ¾" 147.

The hose is thick and does not easily slide over fittings. I found boiling water worked well to custom fit the hose to the fittings. Place the end of the hose in the hot water (boiling or near boiling) in a minute or two it will become soft and pliable. With a little K-Y Jelly on the fitting the hose would easily slip on. Let the hose cool and remove it. It will not shrink back to its original ID. Repeat the process for the other end. With the ends molded to the shape of the fitting the hose can be more easily maneuvered through tight spaces and will easily slip back on the fitting.

The hot water evenly heats the hose on the inside and outside this makes it more pliable. Temperature can also be better controlled than with using a hot air gun and it is much faster than using a hair dryer. Hot air methods tend to over heat and dry out the outer portion of the hose while leaving the inner surface too cold to stretch over the fitting.

dlochner · Jun 6, 2024

It should be fine, this is not a below the waterline application. I prefer Trident over Shields, but I have no real data based evidence.

dLj · Jun 6, 2024

skunther said:
Is that hose fine to use regular worm drive hose clamps on?

I don't recommend using those kinds of hose clamps anywhere on my boat.

dj

dlochner · Jun 6, 2024

skunther said:
Is that hose fine to use regular worm drive hose clamps on?

Yes you can use worm drive clamps, the question is which ones. The cheap hardware store "Stainless Steel" clamps are prone to failure in a wet environment, especially a salt water environment.

The all SS Scandvik ABA clamps are good. The band is solid not slotted and the gauge is heavier than the HW store clamps and everything is SS unlike the HW store clamps. And they cost more.

Whale Gulper 220 for shower drain with atomatic sensor switch

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