Just getting ready to do the spring clean up on the boat…….I took some pictures but they don’t do justice to the condition of the hull. First of all my boat is a 1984 H34. Unless there is some “Miracle” buffing compound, I’m thinking of the wet sand approach. Feedback PLEASE! I WANT THIS THING TO LOOK NEW!!!
wet sand/buff- I want this thing looking new
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check the forum archives
do a search on the on Forum archives lots of ideas and quite detailed as well. Use key words like "wax", "buffing" "PoliGlo", etc. It will get you the answers you ask.
do a search on the on Forum archives lots of ideas and quite detailed as well. Use key words like "wax", "buffing" "PoliGlo", etc. It will get you the answers you ask.
DO NOT WET SAND
Don't be fooled by crap that doesn't work. I used this stuff on my 1974 San Juan 21 and it work GREAT! MEGUIAR'S FIBERGLASS OXIDATION REMOVAL SYSTEM 3-step process restores oxidized fiberglass and painted surfaces to a high gloss shine. Contains: Heavy duty oxidation remover Boat/RV polish Boat/RV pure wax http://www.boatingstore.com/boatingstore/ProdDetail/ProdDetail.asp?pid=110757&SessionNum=B175A9E135B3C0C0BA9B195AD4057FF3A7039864B3F80C679D4BD305ABA28DAE But it will not last. Old faded gel coat is old faded gel coat. If you want to do it right shall out thousands for an awlgrip finish! http://www.awlgrip.com/awlgrip_pages/application_guide_guidelines.htm
Don't be fooled by crap that doesn't work. I used this stuff on my 1974 San Juan 21 and it work GREAT! MEGUIAR'S FIBERGLASS OXIDATION REMOVAL SYSTEM 3-step process restores oxidized fiberglass and painted surfaces to a high gloss shine. Contains: Heavy duty oxidation remover Boat/RV polish Boat/RV pure wax http://www.boatingstore.com/boatingstore/ProdDetail/ProdDetail.asp?pid=110757&SessionNum=B175A9E135B3C0C0BA9B195AD4057FF3A7039864B3F80C679D4BD305ABA28DAE But it will not last. Old faded gel coat is old faded gel coat. If you want to do it right shall out thousands for an awlgrip finish! http://www.awlgrip.com/awlgrip_pages/application_guide_guidelines.htm
New Hull Shine
Hay B737, When I first got my boat it lacked that "new Boat Shine", so what I did was use to use Soft Scrub on the deck and hull (works really great), then on the hull I did the wet/dry sandpaer thing (It's better than new looking). On the hull, clean it really well with soft scrub, rinse, get a bucket of water, or leave the hose on to mist the hull, wet the hull, start with 800, or 1000 grit wet/dry paper, do a section at a time(keep dipping or misting to keep the hull and paper wet, when done with that rinse the hull good. Next use 1200 grit wet/dry paper, repeat as mentioned above, the final sanding will be with 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Rinse well again. Let air dry. Then I used 3M's Perfect-It II rubing compound, and then I waxed it with NuCar wax, which it seems to hold up well. But this spring I might try something different. I did all of the sanded by hand, without a block. I like to feel what I'm doing. I did use a auto buffer for the rubing compound, and I waxed by hand. You will be very, very, happy with the results. Take care, Jay
Hay B737, When I first got my boat it lacked that "new Boat Shine", so what I did was use to use Soft Scrub on the deck and hull (works really great), then on the hull I did the wet/dry sandpaer thing (It's better than new looking). On the hull, clean it really well with soft scrub, rinse, get a bucket of water, or leave the hose on to mist the hull, wet the hull, start with 800, or 1000 grit wet/dry paper, do a section at a time(keep dipping or misting to keep the hull and paper wet, when done with that rinse the hull good. Next use 1200 grit wet/dry paper, repeat as mentioned above, the final sanding will be with 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Rinse well again. Let air dry. Then I used 3M's Perfect-It II rubing compound, and then I waxed it with NuCar wax, which it seems to hold up well. But this spring I might try something different. I did all of the sanded by hand, without a block. I like to feel what I'm doing. I did use a auto buffer for the rubing compound, and I waxed by hand. You will be very, very, happy with the results. Take care, Jay
Ummm Waffle...
Sorry Waffle but you're way off on this point. Perhaps you lack the technique to do it correctly, the right products or the right buffer but when done right it can and does last. Here's a photo of my 1985 Catalina 36 in 2002 with the original gelcoat that was restored in 1999 using the methods I outlined below. 1985 Catalina 3 years after gelcoat restoration: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/73006833 That photo was taken three years after I first restored it so it does last when done right. As for wet sand paper it too works but you need proper techniques and multiple grades to do it right. I'm sorry you lack the insight, skill, tools or drive to do a gelcoat restoration but please DON'T give out bad advice! Part of your problem, and my guess as to why yours did not last, is because you used homeowner grade products and had a false finish from all the "essential oils" Meguiars loads into their "blue bottle" products. This "false finish" causes you to stop polishing well before you have actually created a real shine! The ONLY way to work with these "homeowner grade" products is to buff then wipe off with de-natured alcohol or Pettit de-waxer. This will show you the actual shine of the gelcoat without the false shine left behind by the "essential oils". They put these oils in for beginners so they don't load up the pad and it stays lubricated. Unfortunately it leads to premature results and a short lived finish. No one needs to spend 6-7K on an Awlgrip job until they have no gelcoat left on their hull to buff or polish and that takes a very, very long time to do...
Mainsail is right on!
I have to agree with mainsail. I use the same products on my boat and I always get comments on how great it looks. I don't wet sand it because the rubbing compound seems to clean it up pretty well but I would guess that each case is a litte different. I can not say enough about the 3M finesse it II. This stuff really works well and gives you a very long lasting "wet look". I have an Imron paint job that is close to 15 years old and people think it was just painted.
I have to agree with mainsail. I use the same products on my boat and I always get comments on how great it looks. I don't wet sand it because the rubbing compound seems to clean it up pretty well but I would guess that each case is a litte different. I can not say enough about the 3M finesse it II. This stuff really works well and gives you a very long lasting "wet look". I have an Imron paint job that is close to 15 years old and people think it was just painted.
Mequiars 49
I had a 1973 Pearson . I used Mequiars 49 (by hand) Did a Great job. You actually rub it until it disappears, let dry and buff. I tried their 3 part system (in a kit) and I still like Colonite 870 for a final wax coat. Try a really bad area with the 49 and you will know right away if it does the job. I don't use a buffer polisher because the pad has to be changed too often. Cementhead
I had a 1973 Pearson . I used Mequiars 49 (by hand) Did a Great job. You actually rub it until it disappears, let dry and buff. I tried their 3 part system (in a kit) and I still like Colonite 870 for a final wax coat. Try a really bad area with the 49 and you will know right away if it does the job. I don't use a buffer polisher because the pad has to be changed too often. Cementhead
If your pad..
Needs to be changed often your using to high of a speed, applying to much pressure or not letting the pad sit flat on the hull inducing air and prematurely drying the compound. A proper technique is for the pad to be sitting perfectly flat and not tilted so one edge is doing all the work. If this is the technique used you will create lots of heat, induce air which dries the compound faster and will "load" the pad.. With some compounds a mist bottle of water can help keep the pad lubed and they can be cleaned very easily in a five gallon bucket on site and spun on high inside the bucket to dry off the pad..
Needs to be changed often your using to high of a speed, applying to much pressure or not letting the pad sit flat on the hull inducing air and prematurely drying the compound. A proper technique is for the pad to be sitting perfectly flat and not tilted so one edge is doing all the work. If this is the technique used you will create lots of heat, induce air which dries the compound faster and will "load" the pad.. With some compounds a mist bottle of water can help keep the pad lubed and they can be cleaned very easily in a five gallon bucket on site and spun on high inside the bucket to dry off the pad..
New Boat
Main sail I have a new 2007 36 and would like to give a wax job before dealer puts it in the water. I am thinking 3M polish than collinite 885 fleet wax. Nick
Main sail I have a new 2007 36 and would like to give a wax job before dealer puts it in the water. I am thinking 3M polish than collinite 885 fleet wax. Nick
So many products to choose
Maine Sail, Which Finesse-it are you referring to in your posts? I'm planning to go with 3M super duty, 3M Finesse-it II, Meguiar's #9 and Trewax this spring. The only Finesse-it product I've found is a paste, and doesn't appear to fall between a coarse rubbing compound and a polish. Did I miss something?
Maine Sail, Which Finesse-it are you referring to in your posts? I'm planning to go with 3M super duty, 3M Finesse-it II, Meguiar's #9 and Trewax this spring. The only Finesse-it product I've found is a paste, and doesn't appear to fall between a coarse rubbing compound and a polish. Did I miss something?
Old Salts - DO NOT READ THIS POST!
You can either work your butt off on a 23 year old boat or take a couple of hours and apply PoliGlo. Your boat will look like new and your slip neighbors will ask how you did it. If you follow directions and apply a new coat or two (1 hour max) each year it will look wonderful for as long as you own your boat. The Old Salts prefer to buff and polish and grind and compound and all sorts of stuff that they did back when there weren't high-tech products like PoliGlo available. What do you want to do - sail or spend hours upon hours on a ladder with a power buffer? Go to the PoliGLo web site and read the directions, they are accurate. Then read Maine Sail's process. Then decide.
You can either work your butt off on a 23 year old boat or take a couple of hours and apply PoliGlo. Your boat will look like new and your slip neighbors will ask how you did it. If you follow directions and apply a new coat or two (1 hour max) each year it will look wonderful for as long as you own your boat. The Old Salts prefer to buff and polish and grind and compound and all sorts of stuff that they did back when there weren't high-tech products like PoliGlo available. What do you want to do - sail or spend hours upon hours on a ladder with a power buffer? Go to the PoliGLo web site and read the directions, they are accurate. Then read Maine Sail's process. Then decide.
No option to sail
Randy, All other considerations aside, some of us cannot sail before well into spring anyway (many marinas open 5/1). Besides, doing the work gives an added level of satisfaction and keeps one out of sordid places like the Boat Babe thread
Well, maybe.
Randy, All other considerations aside, some of us cannot sail before well into spring anyway (many marinas open 5/1). Besides, doing the work gives an added level of satisfaction and keeps one out of sordid places like the Boat Babe thread
Well, maybe.
Sorry it's Finesse-it II
Sorry it's Finesse-it II Finishing Material that I use and the 3M part number is 05928.
Sorry it's Finesse-it II Finishing Material that I use and the 3M part number is 05928.
Maine Sail
Thanks for the input........I'll let you know how it turns out. I'll try an area first without the "wet sand". If the H20 shines on the hull as in your picture I owe ya a beer! Thanks
Thanks for the input........I'll let you know how it turns out. I'll try an area first without the "wet sand". If the H20 shines on the hull as in your picture I owe ya a beer! Thanks
Hey, it's your time and effort
When you get through the gelcoat then the Awlgrip is a good choice. Hey Maine Sail, someone trots out that sorry old photo every time this comes up. There is no evidence that boat has anything to do with PoliGlo or anything else. Many people have had very positive experiences with these products, including me. I do agree that working on boats is fun, especially in the off season. I am more of an add-parts guy then a polisher and don't even mention teak care around me. ;-)
When you get through the gelcoat then the Awlgrip is a good choice. Hey Maine Sail, someone trots out that sorry old photo every time this comes up. There is no evidence that boat has anything to do with PoliGlo or anything else. Many people have had very positive experiences with these products, including me. I do agree that working on boats is fun, especially in the off season. I am more of an add-parts guy then a polisher and don't even mention teak care around me. ;-)
I had my boat awlgrip last year
It came out amazing.. like a new boat.. No waxing for atleast 5 years.. Also had a bottom job too. Total cost was over 6 grand ..But insurance paided for most of it..Boat was damaged by another sailboat.
It came out amazing.. like a new boat.. No waxing for atleast 5 years.. Also had a bottom job too. Total cost was over 6 grand ..But insurance paided for most of it..Boat was damaged by another sailboat.
No just an archive search...
"I hope you don't re-type that every time......lol" I just do an archive search, find it, copy it and paste it so people don't have to look so hard...
"I hope you don't re-type that every time......lol" I just do an archive search, find it, copy it and paste it so people don't have to look so hard...
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