I have a 1980 c/b O'Day 25 that I have trying to keep dry. When it rains, it comes inside. I have reseated most of the hardware on the deck and sealed with Lifecaulk. It is difficult to see where the water comes in as it just makes walls and then cushions wet near the each side berth. It seems to be coming in fairly high up but it is further back from the windows to make me believe that is not the windows but something mounted on the cabin top. What else can I try? I reseated the port grab rail but haven't been able to find the right size teak bung plugs to put back in the screw holes that I drilled out. Where can I get these? What size are they? 1/2" was too big and the other size I found (can't remember) was too small. What do you recommend to use for a seal for the front hatch & lazarettes? I have used some self adhesive weather stripping but it just eventually comes off. Thanks, sPk
Wet cabin
- Thread starter sPk
- Start date
- Status
Plug cutter for teak plugs
For your teak plugs, you can make some yourself with some scrap teak and a plugcutter that fits on a drill. I picked up one at Lowes but don't remember the size. As I remember they came out slightly beveled to give you some margin of error.
For your teak plugs, you can make some yourself with some scrap teak and a plugcutter that fits on a drill. I picked up one at Lowes but don't remember the size. As I remember they came out slightly beveled to give you some margin of error.
Windows
Most likely i is your ports that are leaking. I had the same problem with my 23 and reseated the windows on both sides and cured the problem. It's an easy job. Just remove the screws from the inside and pop the windows out. I did mine in about two hours for all four ports.
Most likely i is your ports that are leaking. I had the same problem with my 23 and reseated the windows on both sides and cured the problem. It's an easy job. Just remove the screws from the inside and pop the windows out. I did mine in about two hours for all four ports.
have checked ports but....
I tried to reseat the ports and was able to get the smaller ones in the head but the rear ones I didn't think I could get out without destroying them since the frames were cracked. So I applied sealant around the frames. It doesn't look like the frames are leaking unless they leak right into the cabin sides. Thanks! sPk
I tried to reseat the ports and was able to get the smaller ones in the head but the rear ones I didn't think I could get out without destroying them since the frames were cracked. So I applied sealant around the frames. It doesn't look like the frames are leaking unless they leak right into the cabin sides. Thanks! sPk
Hull to Deck Joint
I'd bet that it is leaking at the Hull to deck joint, under/behind the rub rail. The sealant has deteriorated over the years and needs to be re-sealed. I need to do it on my 27' but have yet to get started. Good luck Dave.
I'd bet that it is leaking at the Hull to deck joint, under/behind the rub rail. The sealant has deteriorated over the years and needs to be re-sealed. I need to do it on my 27' but have yet to get started. Good luck Dave.
you could try....
re sealing the screws and the fasteners that hold the rub-rail holder in place.. It requires removing the black insert. However once I remove the black insert I'd wanna remove the holder too to get the seem joint. I did this this spring on my 86' 222 because the hold was bugger up so replace the whole boat so everything matched. The seem joint seemed very good and was still elastic.. I think my leaks were just the screw and fastners needed the recaulk.
re sealing the screws and the fasteners that hold the rub-rail holder in place.. It requires removing the black insert. However once I remove the black insert I'd wanna remove the holder too to get the seem joint. I did this this spring on my 86' 222 because the hold was bugger up so replace the whole boat so everything matched. The seem joint seemed very good and was still elastic.. I think my leaks were just the screw and fastners needed the recaulk.
companionway rail??
If the boat was leaking from the teak companionway slides could that leak down to the walls? I am hesitant to remove the rub rail unless I am pretty sure that where it was leaking. Steven
If the boat was leaking from the teak companionway slides could that leak down to the walls? I am hesitant to remove the rub rail unless I am pretty sure that where it was leaking. Steven
The easiest way to find a leak...
Is with a garden hose. You want to work from the bottom up. It is also easier with two people that are working together. Start with the rub rail at the stern. The under side first then the top side.Work your way to the bow. Then the stanchions,then chain plates then the pull pit bases and the lights. As yo progress, every once in a while go back and look for slow leaks where you have already looked(you don't need to add more water)before you start the next higher search. The windows next then the hand rail then the hatch slides. Then the tabernackle. Take your time. Direct flow from the hose (no nozzle)will turn up a leak pretty easily. When you find a leak, don't stop you may as well find them all. Remember that a window leak or handrail leak will show up as drips along the head liner where it meets the carpeted hull liner but not always directly below the leak. The deck and head liner are fiberglassed together after fabrication of each piece. So, sometimes it takes a little while for the water to make its way to the lower edge of the cabin headliner. Tyvek tape is a great temp solution for the leaking ports until you get time to fix them. r.w.landau
Is with a garden hose. You want to work from the bottom up. It is also easier with two people that are working together. Start with the rub rail at the stern. The under side first then the top side.Work your way to the bow. Then the stanchions,then chain plates then the pull pit bases and the lights. As yo progress, every once in a while go back and look for slow leaks where you have already looked(you don't need to add more water)before you start the next higher search. The windows next then the hand rail then the hatch slides. Then the tabernackle. Take your time. Direct flow from the hose (no nozzle)will turn up a leak pretty easily. When you find a leak, don't stop you may as well find them all. Remember that a window leak or handrail leak will show up as drips along the head liner where it meets the carpeted hull liner but not always directly below the leak. The deck and head liner are fiberglassed together after fabrication of each piece. So, sometimes it takes a little while for the water to make its way to the lower edge of the cabin headliner. Tyvek tape is a great temp solution for the leaking ports until you get time to fix them. r.w.landau
Another good way...
Is the positive pressure method. This involves applying positive air pressure to the inside of the boat while applying soapy water to the outside of the boat and then seeing where the bubbles come from. You do not need much pressure, like 1 psi, so be carefull not to blow out your ports. I hear that if you close all hatches and tape up any vents as best you can, then put a fan in the forward hatch so that it directs the air into the boat, and seal around it with more tape and or plastic that it pin points the leak really well. This is another one that I have yet to try but will be doing so one day.
Is the positive pressure method. This involves applying positive air pressure to the inside of the boat while applying soapy water to the outside of the boat and then seeing where the bubbles come from. You do not need much pressure, like 1 psi, so be carefull not to blow out your ports. I hear that if you close all hatches and tape up any vents as best you can, then put a fan in the forward hatch so that it directs the air into the boat, and seal around it with more tape and or plastic that it pin points the leak really well. This is another one that I have yet to try but will be doing so one day.
Gunwhale mouldings often leak
I had that same problem on my 222 a couple of years ago, and I Talked to Rudy about it. He said that most likely, water was leaking in from the coaming. He was right. He said that the caulking under the moulding is only good for 8 to 10 years. I found out later that it can be good for less if you use any type of Fiberglass cleaning agent that has Oxcalic Acid in it. For example, one of my boating books tells their readers that Zud Cleanser, which can be perchased in any grocery store, will clean fiberglass,-- and it will. What they fail to say is, that it will eat out the caulking on your deck. I can only tell you how the mouldings were installed on the 222 because I've never looked at the 25, but the Rubber strips come together at the stern of my boat, and each strip has a screw to hold it. I took out these screws and removed the port gunwhale rubber from the aluminum moulding to a point where the other moulding butts up to it, which was somewhere near the bow. I then unscrewed the moulding strip and removed it. I cleaned the fiberglass surface, and recaulked it, and reinstalled the moulding and the rubber that fits inside it. Then I did the same thing to the other moulding on the starboard side of the boat. I used a regular high grade boat caulking. I wouldn't advise the use of silicon. You'll want to be able to remove this moulding again some day, so you need to stick with a regular caulking. I think that you'll find that, some small screw holes under these mouldings, are the culprit. If a leak persists, you're going to be able to narrow the problem down to a deck fitting like a stanchion or pad eye, a lot easier. Check out this web site and click on to "Tools and Techniques". I think you'll find the answers that you'll need about what type of caulking to use. Good luck!
I had that same problem on my 222 a couple of years ago, and I Talked to Rudy about it. He said that most likely, water was leaking in from the coaming. He was right. He said that the caulking under the moulding is only good for 8 to 10 years. I found out later that it can be good for less if you use any type of Fiberglass cleaning agent that has Oxcalic Acid in it. For example, one of my boating books tells their readers that Zud Cleanser, which can be perchased in any grocery store, will clean fiberglass,-- and it will. What they fail to say is, that it will eat out the caulking on your deck. I can only tell you how the mouldings were installed on the 222 because I've never looked at the 25, but the Rubber strips come together at the stern of my boat, and each strip has a screw to hold it. I took out these screws and removed the port gunwhale rubber from the aluminum moulding to a point where the other moulding butts up to it, which was somewhere near the bow. I then unscrewed the moulding strip and removed it. I cleaned the fiberglass surface, and recaulked it, and reinstalled the moulding and the rubber that fits inside it. Then I did the same thing to the other moulding on the starboard side of the boat. I used a regular high grade boat caulking. I wouldn't advise the use of silicon. You'll want to be able to remove this moulding again some day, so you need to stick with a regular caulking. I think that you'll find that, some small screw holes under these mouldings, are the culprit. If a leak persists, you're going to be able to narrow the problem down to a deck fitting like a stanchion or pad eye, a lot easier. Check out this web site and click on to "Tools and Techniques". I think you'll find the answers that you'll need about what type of caulking to use. Good luck!
found leaks..
I tried the hose technique that r.w.landau was kind enough to spell out. It worked great. Thank you!! I had a helper and found out that the starboard handrail (the one I didn't reseat last year) leaks and the two most aft ports on the port side leaked. It was deceptive because no water was visible on the inside of the ports. But the water would come straight in and down the inside of the head liner and then drip onto the fabric on the side of the boat. I removed the inside frame of the port and noticed how well it was still sealed. So it was only the outside frame that has the problem. So I have a few options here. I could just apply some caulk to the outside frame and hope it seals up. But the caulk is always rather an eyesore. Or I could cut the caulk out and reseat the port completely. Or I could just get some new ports (something that opened would be great). Suggestions? It is great to finally know where the water is comming in!!! Thanks, sPk
I tried the hose technique that r.w.landau was kind enough to spell out. It worked great. Thank you!! I had a helper and found out that the starboard handrail (the one I didn't reseat last year) leaks and the two most aft ports on the port side leaked. It was deceptive because no water was visible on the inside of the ports. But the water would come straight in and down the inside of the head liner and then drip onto the fabric on the side of the boat. I removed the inside frame of the port and noticed how well it was still sealed. So it was only the outside frame that has the problem. So I have a few options here. I could just apply some caulk to the outside frame and hope it seals up. But the caulk is always rather an eyesore. Or I could cut the caulk out and reseat the port completely. Or I could just get some new ports (something that opened would be great). Suggestions? It is great to finally know where the water is comming in!!! Thanks, sPk
- Status