Wet Bilge?

Dec 2, 1997
9,011
- - LIttle Rock
A wet dirty bilge can make a whole boat smell like a swamp or even a sewer. I can't even count the number of people who've said they've torn out most of their sanitation system trying to get rid of what they thought was “head odor,” when all they really needed to do was clean their bilges--really CLEAN them for a change, and rinse all the dirty water out, instead of just dumping more “miracle” cleaning product into the bilge and calling it done.
A wet bilge is a dark stagnant swamp. And it behaves like one, growing a variety of molds, fungi and bacteria—some that thrive in dark stagnant water, others that just like damp dark places. It doesn't have to be an anaerobic area--stagnant water stinks in a pond in an open field...generating anaerobic gasses--hydrogen sulfide and sulfur dioxide--that can make a whole boat smell like rotten eggs or a sewer. The warmer the weather and water, the faster they grow. Add some dead and decaying sea water micro-organisms, dirt, food particles, rain water, wash water, shower or ice box water, hot weather and humidity, plus a little oil or diesel, and you have a real primordial soup…no wonder it stinks!

And then there's the matter of corrosion, even in fresh water.

So keep it clean...and mop up what the bilge pump leaves in the bilge...if it's more than a big sponge can handle, use a shop vac or a dinghy bailer and a bucket, and then a big sponge to get the last of it.

There's a whole chapter in my book (available from the sbo.com store) devoted to all the sources of odor that don't originate in the head, and how to find and eliminate 'em...you might want to check out the link in my signature.
 

BayMan

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Sep 12, 2012
203
Hunter 450 Unspecified
A solution to this is to put a small zinc in your bilge water that connects all of your SS bolts electrically to the zinc.
QUOTE]

Just drop a zinc into the bilge? Sounds like a no-brainer backup insurance plan.
 
Oct 1, 2015
63
Clark San Juan 30 Blaine WA
I have been trying to figure on how to drain the icebox for years I have thought of hooking to the sink drain but just have never figured out how to do it. Scares me when I start to mess with drains especially when they are connected to sea thru hull I don't want to sink the boat because of a dumb move. on my part I have watched to many sink in the Marina from dumb stuff on the changing of things I just suck it out when I get to Port. It is always clean water looks like you could almost drink it so I sometimes just suck it out with the shop vac and dump it in the Head to suck out Later work well but a Pain sometimes. I do have an auto Bilge pump just in case of anything ever causing water to come on board. I have had the entire cockpit filled with water from rouge waves crashing over the top. they drain in under 2min when it is filled to the edge of cockpit seats. I just don't worry about a little water in Bilge anymore I just deal with it.
 

Jack

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Jan 30, 2008
121
Hunter 33 -
I have been trying to figure on how to drain the icebox for years
I just built an ice box in place of the trash can and tapped the drain into the sump pump for the shower.

I was also nervous of 'below water line' issues so this works great!
The drain for the sump pump is well above the water line and the pump acts like a stopper, of sorts.
I placed a refrigerator shelve on the bottom with about 1" of space below it so i can keep a thin layer of very cold water on the bottom of the cooler. It's quite efficient.
Then when it's time to leave the boat i just hit the sump pump drain button in the head and out goes the water.

J&R
 

Jack

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Jan 30, 2008
121
Hunter 33 -
Below are the keel bolts with the grounding wires attached. I am not sure whether they are part of the DC or the AC systems. In the bottom photo i replaced the top copper ring connector because of corrosion.
My concerns are the rust stains because the rust stains must have come from some rust somewhere.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

thanks

J&R



DSCF3682.JPG
DSCF3679.JPG
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,534
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Rust isn't a good sign. Would it be a dumb idea to remove one of those bolts and inspect under the plates to see if they might be rusting?

edit. I meant nuts. There's obviously no bolts do'h!
 
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druid

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Apr 22, 2009
837
Ontario 32 Pender Harbour
I've always had a wet bilge - there's just too many places water ends up there (condensation, rainwater leaks, spills, leaks, and yes, stuffing-box drips). I've never had an issue with keelbolts corroding. I just replaced my stuffing-box with a new one, and I plan to make it "dripless" although it usually drips a bit after a long run. I had a PSS seal in my Cat 36, but I prefer the "old-school technology" of a stuffing-box (and I don't have vertical room for a shaft seal)

druid
 

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
8,019
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
I wonder what metal make the purple stain?
That brownish stain can be removed with Naval Jelly to prove it is IRON.

Before you jump that brown stain is a corrosion product of your bolts, see if Naval Jelly (just a dab) will whiten the bilge.
Jim...
 

Gunni

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Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
Those are not bolts, they are threaded rod cast into the lead keel.
 

Quint

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Jan 22, 2008
22
Catalina 380 220 New Orleans LA
A dry bilge is often an elusive quarry but well worth the hunt. And Peggie Hall is my boat maintenance hero! I am likely one of her biggest fans. Her knowledge and advice have helped me countless times with my various "head" issues on two boats, as well as with my quest for a sweeter-smelling boat. I have only just recently attained a dry bilge on my newest boat and am enjoying the benefits of rapidly-disappearing boat odor.

To start, I installed a Mermaid "Condensator" in my air conditioner water discharge line, which uses the Venturi principle to suck the water out of my air conditioner drip pan and sends it directly overboard, rather than just letting it drip down into my bilge--like it happens on most other boats normally. As a result, I have thoroughly cleaned and dried the bilge area--it's clean and nearly spotless. Most of the odors left with the bilge water. My stuffing box barely drips when the engine is not running, so little that the water evaporates in the much-drier boat (see below).

My refrigerator compartment has a drain and drain line connected to a manual pump that I can use to pump the water from the defrosted ice box directly overboard and not into the bilge. I also have a compact but effective Peltier-style dehumidifier running in the cabin all the time at the dock, which keeps the cabin relatively dry. I leave my air conditioner on all the time at the dock but set at 78 degrees so it's not constantly running. And I have a small electric oscillating fan in the cabin running all the time at the dock to move the air around. I have a couple of Nicro day-night solar charged fans installed, one in a forward hatch and one in an aft hatch, one on exhaust and one on intake, providing full cabin interior air exchange all day and night. I remove the floor boards cover access holes to the bilge when I am away from the boat, allowing the bilge to breathe and any drips from the stuffing box to evaporate by way of the dehumidifier, air conditioner, fans, etc.

I'm also planning to rob a bank one day so I can afford to buy some more plastic mesh 3/4" cushion material (http://www.marinebedding.co.uk/Dry-Mesh-Anti-Moisture.aspx#order-drymesh) to cut-to-size underneath all of my interior settee and berth cushions/mattresses, so that air can pass/circulate under them at all times. Took a chance and used this stuff on my other boat and it made a big difference in getting rid of lingering boat odor.

All of these things together have served to cut way back and hopefully soon will eliminate the heavy, clothes-penetrating "boat smell" that existed from the previous owner's apparent longtime indifference to keeping the interior and bilge dry. In the words of ex-con Martha Stewart "it's a (really) good thing!"

Cheers,

Quint
 

Jack

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Jan 30, 2008
121
Hunter 33 -
Those are not bolts, they are threaded rod cast into the lead keel.
that is what i thought as well...
i guess my biggest concern is that the rods corrode enough and have to be replaced.
I can only assume that will be a huge job!!!

J&R
 
Apr 22, 2011
974
Hunter 27 Pecan Grove, Oriental, NC
Jack. Your keel bolts (rods) look exactly like mine did before I made repairs. Take the nut and washer off of the one with the most staining and check the threads. In my case, I removed all of them one at a time and checked for corrosion while in the boat was in the water. I could not find a deep enough socket to fit over the tall bolt to get to the nut until I saw these at Lowes: http://toolmonger.com/2008/04/16/kobalts-thru-ratchet-gets-over-long-bolts/. Send us a picture after you've taken a look at them.
 

Jack

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Jan 30, 2008
121
Hunter 33 -
Heritage...
thanks for the link...
I think I am going to wait until she is on the hard for the season before removing the bolts though.
Granted there is extensive fiberglassing and 5200 holding the keel up but it really makes me nervous.
I will give them a good cleaning in the mean time though.
I am slowly eliminating the wet bilge and hopefully by end of season she will be able to stay dry.
Quint has some great ideas that i will be incorporating asap.
Thank you Quint for those.

J&R