Westerbeke 10 Two fuel filter change

Aug 2, 2005
1,155
Pearson 33-2 & Typhoon 18 Seneca Lake
Hello SBO Members,

Following an engine shut down at an inconvenient time (are there any convenient times?) I have changed the fuel filters associated with the Westerbeke 10 Two diesel engine in our Oday 272LE. To say it was a messy job would be a huge understatement! :eek:

(1) I pulled the fuel shut off in the cockpit.
(2) Drained water from the Groco filter/separator in the sail locker. Easy access and easy to control and catch fuel/water that I drained out.
(3) Fuel shut off valve in the fuel lines is just outside the fuel tank. Accessed by removing the switch/gauge panel aft of the cockpit. Shut it off.
(4) Clamped the fuel lines (supply & return) shut using vise grips.
(5) Removed the fuel lift pump canister bottom and changed the filter and rubber gasket within. Wiped the magnet and replaced it in the bottom of the twist portion of the canister.
(6) Removed the spin on OIL FILTER to provide better access to the fuel filter element that is forward-most on the starboard side of the engine. (NOTE: I did not want to change the oil, but had to remove the oil filter to get the fuel filter out.)
(7) I removed the collar of the canister containing the filter and changed the filter and the two rubber O-rings. That was nearly impossible!

What I want help with is this...... How do I make these filter changes without getting drenched with diesel fuel ? Nearly a quart of fuel ran out in a stream from the last filter area as I struggled to get the O-rings changed and the filter and canister back into position! :cussing:
Yes, I said a few "bad" words in the process.

I soaked that mess up from under the engine using fuel absorbing sheets, shop towels, and some rags.

Why didn't the shut off valve in the fuel line near the tank stop the flow?

Why didn't the vise grips cut off the fuel?

Where can shut off valves be installed to make this less messy?

Thanks for any information you can offer to make this job easier to complete.
Phil
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,982
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
There's fuel in the hose between the primary and secondary filters. Either clamp more or install a shutoff valve at your injection pump. Put the absorbent pads down first, too. :):):) Believe me, it gets better the second time. :)
 
Jun 1, 2007
272
O'Day 322 Mt.Sinai
Added 3 way valves and 2nd filter

This is what I did. I used brass plugs and hose clamps when I cut a fuel line to minimize spillage. I added a 2nd parallel fuel filter so if one clogged up while underway, I could switch to the 2nd and continue. I use either one or the other, not both.

So both fuel filters can be isolated by the 3 way valves. I either set both to off (0), 1 for filter 1, or 2 for filter 2. The Racor is easier to change quickly and cleanly, so I consider that my primary and the Groco the secondary.

I get a small plastic container from Home Depot and keep it under the filter when changing the filter. So the procedure is isolate the filter I'm changing via the valves, put an oil absorbent rag underneath, put the plastic container under the filter, drain what I can, then take the filter out and replace. the Racor spin off is way easier!
 

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Aug 2, 2005
1,155
Pearson 33-2 & Typhoon 18 Seneca Lake
So both fuel filters can be isolated by the 3 way valves. I either set both to off (0), 1 for filter 1, or 2 for filter 2. The Racor is easier to change quickly and cleanly, so I consider that my primary and the Groco the secondary.
Thanks Mickstr6,

I like the isolation idea especially with the option to quickly change the filter system that is in use. The possibility that the second filter in the sail locker would allow you to restart the engine is priceless. When my engine slowed and stopped I was only 1/4 mile from our slip. I considered sailing to the slip because my wife was at the dock and the wind was light enough and in a reasonable direction. Erring on the side of safety, we decided to use TowBoat/US. They maintain a base in the same marina.

Although not described in my original post, I did put absorbent pads under the engine and under the filters on the engine itself before I loosened the lift pump bottom or the fuel element canister. Those filters on the engine itself caused me the greatest difficulty because I could not stem the flow of fuel when the filter canisters were open. The engine fuel filter element was the most difficult to change. I am considering putting shut off valves very near the entry port for the lift pump and just after the tubing leaves the engine for the fuel return line to the tank. I'll try to add a picture of the area on the starboard side of the Westerbeke 10 Two engine.

NOTE: The first diagram and the top picture show the location of the filters just above the oil filter. I do not know why the same information showed up several times. When I was changing the filters I had no time or temperament or camera for photos!
 

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RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
There should be (actually, its required) a fuel shut off valve at the outlet tube of the fuel tank ... close this valve when changing filters. Such will prevent fuel from 'siphoning' from the tank when changing filters, etc.
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
that little engine is one of the best running engines out there .......
 
Jan 6, 2010
1,520
31,

Listen to what Stu & Mick advise, they know from past filter changes. I assume your engine is located aft the companionway with having to work from the sides. Whoever thought of this being a good design should work in a different field. Sadly, it's all about packaging, with little thought given to designing room for ease of maintenance.

The fuel tank valve is mounted in the wrong place. You want this valve at a low point before your primary filter. I have another at the low point between Primary & secondary. I shut these & I don't have to prime the whole system after filter changes before starting. Valves in the low point locations just closeoff before changing filters. This way, your fuel lines remain primed. I don't crack the vent fittings on the filter housings when removing the filters, you should get less free-draining.

Another thing I do, is to pour the fuel from the filter I am removing into the new filter before replacing, as full as I can get it. This cuts down on residual air in the lines. I crack no connections to bleed but ,after two or three attempts of a rough start & stall, when running at idle, I gradually raise my throttle over the next ten minutes (2000 RPM) to expel any residual air in the lines. I've been doing it this way for over twenty years now.

As Mick says, it get's better the second time. As for catch containers, you may have to get creative & cut them to suit.

Ah, don't ya just love boats man?

CR
 
Dec 27, 2011
279
Oday 272 Pensacola
Documentation for the 10-2 says the fuel system is 'self priming'. I have found this to be true as I have had to change filters twice due to water intrusion. Turn on key for 10-15 minutes (fuel pump runs when key is in ON position). Now have Rayco fuel filter to separate fuel/water and not have this problem again. Also replaced fuel deck filler to get a new O ring to keep water from draining into tank.

Charles
 
Aug 2, 2005
1,155
Pearson 33-2 & Typhoon 18 Seneca Lake
Thanks for your comments & suggestions.

Charles, Woody, & Rich.....I have checked on the location of the shut off at the tank (+1); like the operation of the engine using a bit higher RPMs than I had been used to with the 2GM20 (+1); and I have enjoyed the self priming feature of this engine (+1); the deck fill O-ring will be on the "to do" list along with resealing the switch/instrument panel (+1).

Capt Ron & Mick.....I'll work on the shut off valve location as soon as the "excitement" of my recent efforts wears down. The access to the engine was improved because I removed the forward part of the compartment that includes the door & opening to below the galley sink plus the support for the removable steps. I had to replace a horizontal support because it was fuel soaked. Tomorrow I will replace the cabinet parts I removed.

The engine did start after doing the start routine about 8 times. The final effort produced a low speed start that cleared up and finally ran well. I shut it down for about 10 minutes then started it again with no trouble.

Weather permitting Tuesday we will sail the boat. My wife is anxious to be out on Charlotte Harbor sailing again. Life is good! Thanks, Phil