Westerbeke 10-2 overheating (long post)

[cbourne200]

1987 O'Day 272 with Westerbeke 10-2 is overheating. Purchased about 3 yrs ago from PO who had supposedly done a bebuild on motor.

Thought I found the problem a couple weeks ago when I removed HX & saw sea water in/out ports about 1/2 plugged due to salt buildup. Also found sea water hose from HX to mixing elbow had a hole where it turned out of HX. Pencil zinc was in pieces, and I cracked brazing around fitting when trying to remove old Zinc plug. Cleaned out deposits, rebrazed zinc plug, then also found sea water barb had crack horizontally around about 70% of barb circumference. Did not appear to go completely through barb, but thought this was a problem waiting to happen, so replaced .

Finding a new barb (1" threads to 7/8 barb) was impossible as this does not seem to be a standard Westerbeke configuration. At Westerbeke dealer, they didn't think HX was Westerbeke. I found no code on HX to determine brand. Finally they recommended soft side 7/8" hose & 3"x1" brass nipple (original hose to mixer was 7/8 wired hose).

Prior to filling overflow (it's high enough that reservoir on engine will lose A/F if cap left off), I noticed a 'jelly like' substance in bottom of overflow. Removed overflow tank and cleaned, then reinstalled. Previously something had clogged the pin hole A/F return from overflow into reservoir on engine. May have been this substance. That was previously cleaned. So I added A/F to overflow tank vs tryiing to fill engine reservoir.

Reconnected all hoses (only 'replacement' was HX to mixer), filled overflow tank with new 50/50 antifreeze, opened sea water valve and started engine.

Within 5 min started to overheat. Opened wing nut on thermostat and nothing came out. Would have expected A/F to come out. Overflow tank had dropped significantly, so turned engine off and added A/F to proper level in overflow. Waited approx 10 min (temp dropped a little - had been up over 200*), then restarted. Same thing - temp guage began climbing, and when tstat valve opened, did get some steam. Still no liquid. Shut down due to overheating. Overflow had dropped maybe 1".

Have read all I can find on prior posts concerning overheating. Have NOT replaced sea water impeller (nothing in HX when I took it apart - last replaced about 2 yrs ago and very little usage this year), have NOT replaced A/F pump (what I would call the regular 'water pump' on a car), have NOT checked mixer, do not think sea water intake is clogged, have no sea water filter, have no 'overheat' light but do have a guage - temps quickly go to 200* or over if I allow engine to run, I did NOT boil out HX but it looked fairly clean. I can leave hand on tstat for 5 sec without burning - it's hot, but not terribly. Did NOT check temp of HX.

I DID replace broken hose with same size hose, hose is not kinked as wooden housing was removed to allow proper curvature of hose - need to replace 3" nipple with 90* out of HX (has anyone used PVC on HX???). I did clean out in/out seawater ports on HX, I DID reconnect all other/original hoses, I DID open sea water inlet valve, I DID 'burp' cooling system TWICE. There appears to be sufficient water coming out of exhaust.

Tomorrow is a new day. Based on your recommendations, I can begin search for overheating problem. I intend to verify supply of sea water inlet water by removing hose to engine. Start engine again and burp cooling system a THIRD time (third time is the charm!). Then it's back to HX to check for broken impeller fins, sea water impeller inspection, check thermostat for proper opening, check A/F pump, check mixer. After that, I'm out of ideas and have probably taken the long way to getting this resolved.

Anyone have this particular problem on a Westerbeke 10-2? Anyone have other recommendations???

Thanks
Charles

 

[woodster]

1987 O'Day 272 with Westerbeke 10-2 is overheating. Purchased about 3 yrs ago from PO who had supposedly done a bebuild on motor.

Thought I found the problem a couple weeks ago when I removed HX & saw sea water in/out ports about 1/2 plugged due to salt buildup. Also found sea water hose from HX to mixing elbow had a hole where it turned out of HX. Pencil zinc was in pieces, and I cracked brazing around fitting when trying to remove old Zinc plug. Cleaned out deposits, rebrazed zinc plug, then also found sea water barb had crack horizontally around about 70% of barb circumference. Did not appear to go completely through barb, but thought this was a problem waiting to happen, so replaced .

Finding a new barb (1" threads to 7/8 barb) was impossible as this does not seem to be a standard Westerbeke configuration. At Westerbeke dealer, they didn't think HX was Westerbeke. I found no code on HX to determine brand. Finally they recommended soft side 7/8" hose & 3"x1" brass nipple (original hose to mixer was 7/8 wired hose).

Prior to filling overflow (it's high enough that reservoir on engine will lose A/F if cap left off), I noticed a 'jelly like' substance in bottom of overflow. Removed overflow tank and cleaned, then reinstalled. Previously something had clogged the pin hole A/F return from overflow into reservoir on engine. May have been this substance. That was previously cleaned. So I added A/F to overflow tank vs tryiing to fill engine reservoir.

Reconnected all hoses (only 'replacement' was HX to mixer), filled overflow tank with new 50/50 antifreeze, opened sea water valve and started engine.

Within 5 min started to overheat. Opened wing nut on thermostat and nothing came out. Would have expected A/F to come out. Overflow tank had dropped significantly, so turned engine off and added A/F to proper level in overflow. Waited approx 10 min (temp dropped a little - had been up over 200*), then restarted. Same thing - temp guage began climbing, and when tstat valve opened, did get some steam. Still no liquid. Shut down due to overheating. Overflow had dropped maybe 1".

Have read all I can find on prior posts concerning overheating. Have NOT replaced sea water impeller (nothing in HX when I took it apart - last replaced about 2 yrs ago and very little usage this year), have NOT replaced A/F pump (what I would call the regular 'water pump' on a car), have NOT checked mixer, do not think sea water intake is clogged, have no sea water filter, have no 'overheat' light but do have a guage - temps quickly go to 200* or over if I allow engine to run, I did NOT boil out HX but it looked fairly clean. I can leave hand on tstat for 5 sec without burning - it's hot, but not terribly. Did NOT check temp of HX.

I DID replace broken hose with same size hose, hose is not kinked as wooden housing was removed to allow proper curvature of hose - need to replace 3" nipple with 90* out of HX (has anyone used PVC on HX???). I did clean out in/out seawater ports on HX, I DID reconnect all other/original hoses, I DID open sea water inlet valve, I DID 'burp' cooling system TWICE. There appears to be sufficient water coming out of exhaust.

Tomorrow is a new day. Based on your recommendations, I can begin search for overheating problem. I intend to verify supply of sea water inlet water by removing hose to engine. Start engine again and burp cooling system a THIRD time (third time is the charm!). Then it's back to HX to check for broken impeller fins, sea water impeller inspection, check thermostat for proper opening, check A/F pump, check mixer. After that, I'm out of ideas and have probably taken the long way to getting this resolved.

Anyone have this particular problem on a Westerbeke 10-2? Anyone have other recommendations???

Thanks
Charles

Have read all I can find on prior posts concerning overheating. Have NOT replaced sea water impeller (nothing in HX when I took it apart - last replaced about 2 yrs ago and very little usage this year), have NOT replaced A/F pump (what I would call the regular 'water pump' on a car), have NOT checked mixer, do not think sea water intake is clogged, have no sea water filter, have no 'overheat' light but do have a guage - temps quickly go to 200* or over if I allow engine to run, I did NOT boil out HX but it looked fairly clean. I can leave hand on tstat for 5 sec without burning - it's hot, but not terribly. Did NOT check temp of HX.

do everything you have not done and check your seacock to see if you are getting water ...also check your sea water impeller and see if it is ok ...you have a lot to do here...and when the budget allows get a groco sea water strainer for your system and you may want to talk to Charlie Bell at Bells marine ...he is a great guy and can help you a lot i think they are just off Barancaus or some thing like that just over the bridge to a street to the right going toward the base

 

[cbourne200]

I think he's the guy who suggested the 3" x 1" nipple to replace the barb out of HX. According to poster on wall, answers to questions are $1. Intelligent/correct answers are $1.75... I've found them to be knowledgeable and have better prices than on-line.

Saw one posting saying cooling had to be burped 3 times - I've only done it twice - hope 3rd time is the charm.

Will start over with things I haven't done, and those I have done too. No reason (that I see now) that the temp is still climbing.

Thanks for response. How are you familiar with Bell's?

 

[woodster]

I think he's the guy who suggested the 3" x 1" nipple to replace the barb out of HX. According to poster on wall, answers to questions are $1. Intelligent/correct answers are $1.75... I've found them to be knowledgeable and have better prices than on-line.

Saw one posting saying cooling had to be burped 3 times - I've only done it twice - hope 3rd time is the charm.

Will start over with things I haven't done, and those I have done too. No reason (that I see now) that the temp is still climbing.

Thanks for response. How are you familiar with Bell's?

when i buy yanmar parts he is my go to guy ...a friend of mine put me on to him a few years back he is one of the few that will recommend a mechanics fix as well as a parts book fix he knows how to put on everything he and Mrs Bell sell and has a great used parts pile to work out of

 

[cbourne200]

Don't you love it when things 'fix themselves'?

Went to boaty today armed with a digital thermometer to check whether engine was realy overheating or if I needed a new sender/guage. Plan was to 'burp' cooling system to remove any residual air (had done it twice, but had read where one poster said it took 3 times). Noticed overflow had dropped maybe 1-2 ", so added a/f.

Started engine and let run about 20 min (had not planned this length, but a dockmate came over and we started talking). Checked digital thermometer (DT from now on) prior to arrival - A/C in car was showing 28*, so suspected I was getting low reading. Skin temp was displaying about 85*. Pleasantly saw that DT read 100* on thermostat, 120* on guage.

I also saw another post saying with overflow in place, burping was not required. Guess this kinda' proves it, and that things can 'fix themselves'...

Charles

 

[Pat]

Our temperature today after motoring quite a ways was 140 deg....stayed at that although that seems a little low...there was a bit of white smoke and I still am unsure what that means...not a lot, but barely visible....may not be smoke....I should say it is steam.??
Pat