Ok, I'm a new sailer, with a new boat. And I've resisted asking this question for the flak I know I'm going to get. Sailing her in fair winds is easy. She sails like a dream. The other weekend we were out in a strong wind. I had the second reef in, with the main sail tight... I thought, and the main sail was as leeward was I would get. I had 2/3's of the jib sail out, also tight. We only had a 10-15 degree heel. Sailing very close, the rudder was max'ed out to stay on course. We couldn't tack... all we could do was turn away from the wind. We got our selves in that condition twice that day. A feeling of total lack of control... Any suggestions?
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easy the sheets to tack.
Frank: If this happens again, just try easing the sheets on the main and the jib and try it.
Frank: If this happens again, just try easing the sheets on the main and the jib and try it.
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Steve O.
boom vang
Also try tightening the boom vang, which flattens the main sail. If all else fails, you may have to rake the mast aft a little.
Also try tightening the boom vang, which flattens the main sail. If all else fails, you may have to rake the mast aft a little.
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Mark Wilson
Weather Helm
Frank, I've been there many times myself over the past 10 years. Try sailing her with only one sail up. Jib or main; depending on control in lighter air. My 30 footer did best with the jib but my newer 35.5 does best with the main. Anytime the helm is fighting the movement of the boat you need to shorten sail area.
Frank, I've been there many times myself over the past 10 years. Try sailing her with only one sail up. Jib or main; depending on control in lighter air. My 30 footer did best with the jib but my newer 35.5 does best with the main. Anytime the helm is fighting the movement of the boat you need to shorten sail area.
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Marty Albright
Shorten sail more
is usually what I do with my 240. I have been in similar situations several times myself. If you ease the boom vang some it will spill some air from the main's top, easing heel. I probably would have pulled more jib in, in your scenario. If the helm pulls to weather-shorten or ease the main, if lee-shorten the jib. In high winds my boat sails easier with jib only, but it doesn't head to wind well. You might also experiment with your centerboard (if you have one) to ease the helm some at the expense of leeway. Good sailing.
is usually what I do with my 240. I have been in similar situations several times myself. If you ease the boom vang some it will spill some air from the main's top, easing heel. I probably would have pulled more jib in, in your scenario. If the helm pulls to weather-shorten or ease the main, if lee-shorten the jib. In high winds my boat sails easier with jib only, but it doesn't head to wind well. You might also experiment with your centerboard (if you have one) to ease the helm some at the expense of leeway. Good sailing.
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Tom Hultberg
Sounds like...
your mast fore stay is too loose. The angle of your mast plays an important part in weather helm. I have a 1997 H26 and i checked my standing rigging this year b4 the season began and found my mast to be off center and too far aft. Sails and handles alot better since I did that. Other than that, the best way to avoid the boat heading up is to let off the main sheet and spill some air. Tight isn't always best. Speed is best, cuz then you always have control. Sailing with one sail or the other is difficult and slow. You need your jib so you can control your turns and get speed. Sounds like you might need to shorten your jib to about 1/3. Good luck! Tom
your mast fore stay is too loose. The angle of your mast plays an important part in weather helm. I have a 1997 H26 and i checked my standing rigging this year b4 the season began and found my mast to be off center and too far aft. Sails and handles alot better since I did that. Other than that, the best way to avoid the boat heading up is to let off the main sheet and spill some air. Tight isn't always best. Speed is best, cuz then you always have control. Sailing with one sail or the other is difficult and slow. You need your jib so you can control your turns and get speed. Sounds like you might need to shorten your jib to about 1/3. Good luck! Tom
He can't shorten it much more.
Frank already had a double reef in his main, it is a little difficult to reef more unless he drops his main all together. I have experience this same thing when hard on the wind. You cannot drive through a tack without easing the sheets. Once you pass through, you can harden up the sails and away you go again.
Frank already had a double reef in his main, it is a little difficult to reef more unless he drops his main all together. I have experience this same thing when hard on the wind. You cannot drive through a tack without easing the sheets. Once you pass through, you can harden up the sails and away you go again.
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Guest
Rudder all the way down?
Sailing the other day in my 97 H26. Could barely handle the boat. Checked the set in all my sails and they were OK. Got to a little quite air so that check the rudder and found that it was only about 10 degrees from where it was supposed to be. Got it down to where it should have been and I could control the boat with two fingers. Couldn't believe how much difference that few inches made.
Sailing the other day in my 97 H26. Could barely handle the boat. Checked the set in all my sails and they were OK. Got to a little quite air so that check the rudder and found that it was only about 10 degrees from where it was supposed to be. Got it down to where it should have been and I could control the boat with two fingers. Couldn't believe how much difference that few inches made.
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Frank
Agree on the rudder
A tiny change makes a big difference. Also on my boat the rudder likes to drift out of position and I can feel it in the helm and have to pull it down several times a day to keep the helm right.
A tiny change makes a big difference. Also on my boat the rudder likes to drift out of position and I can feel it in the helm and have to pull it down several times a day to keep the helm right.
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Jim Maroldo
Weather helm
Frank, I'm trying to picture exactly what you had there. It sounds like you had your main halyard tight( always a good thing), the main sheet all the way out, the jib furled some, the jib sheet pulled in tight, and the rudder hard over to windward while on a close reach? Is this what you were doing? IF this is the case, then your main must've been luffing and the jib was doing the driving. There's one rule about sail trim I always remember: "When in doubt, let it out." Tht is, let the sail out just until it luffs, then pull it back in until it just stops luffing. Of course, your tell-tails will show you. Since you're new to this, you and/or your mates may be a bit leary of a 10-15 degree heel. You shouldn't worry... I think most feel that 15 is optimum; 30 is a bit exciting, but by no means necessary. Further, I would think that if you had your rudder turned hard over and the boat didn't respond, is it possible that you might've been stalled? With a stiff breeze, you often need to get up a good head of steam to get you around on a tack. As Steve Dion mentioned, it'd probably be better to fall off to a bit to gain speed and when you DO start your tack, resist the temptation to kick the rudder over as far as she'll go; it'll act as a brake and actually slow you down at a time when you're counting on momentum alone to bring you around. Smooth & easy is the key. One more thing... Don't worry about making mistakes! We're all novices at one time or another, and I'm sure you can't do something that someone else hasn't already done before! ENJOY! Jim Maroldo s/v: Lil' Wass Ett
Frank, I'm trying to picture exactly what you had there. It sounds like you had your main halyard tight( always a good thing), the main sheet all the way out, the jib furled some, the jib sheet pulled in tight, and the rudder hard over to windward while on a close reach? Is this what you were doing? IF this is the case, then your main must've been luffing and the jib was doing the driving. There's one rule about sail trim I always remember: "When in doubt, let it out." Tht is, let the sail out just until it luffs, then pull it back in until it just stops luffing. Of course, your tell-tails will show you. Since you're new to this, you and/or your mates may be a bit leary of a 10-15 degree heel. You shouldn't worry... I think most feel that 15 is optimum; 30 is a bit exciting, but by no means necessary. Further, I would think that if you had your rudder turned hard over and the boat didn't respond, is it possible that you might've been stalled? With a stiff breeze, you often need to get up a good head of steam to get you around on a tack. As Steve Dion mentioned, it'd probably be better to fall off to a bit to gain speed and when you DO start your tack, resist the temptation to kick the rudder over as far as she'll go; it'll act as a brake and actually slow you down at a time when you're counting on momentum alone to bring you around. Smooth & easy is the key. One more thing... Don't worry about making mistakes! We're all novices at one time or another, and I'm sure you can't do something that someone else hasn't already done before! ENJOY! Jim Maroldo s/v: Lil' Wass Ett
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Ray Bowles
Rudder Lock on Hunter 26.
We have found on our 95 Hunter 26 that if the rudder blade creeps back any ammount from its fully down position the boat becomes extremely hard to control and requires alot of additional strength to maintain course. Our fix to this slipping was to first position the rudder fully down, tighten the large wing nut as tight as possible. Then rather than using that silly little line cleat on the underside of the tiller to secure the rudder uphaul line, we simply use a bungee cord to pull the rudder line forward and hook the bow end of the bungee to the tiller extension pin. This tension on the rudder uphaul line has removed all the slipping problems. Ray S/V Speedy
We have found on our 95 Hunter 26 that if the rudder blade creeps back any ammount from its fully down position the boat becomes extremely hard to control and requires alot of additional strength to maintain course. Our fix to this slipping was to first position the rudder fully down, tighten the large wing nut as tight as possible. Then rather than using that silly little line cleat on the underside of the tiller to secure the rudder uphaul line, we simply use a bungee cord to pull the rudder line forward and hook the bow end of the bungee to the tiller extension pin. This tension on the rudder uphaul line has removed all the slipping problems. Ray S/V Speedy
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Frank Sears
Thank you all, The main was all the way out, but the jib, was in tight... I'll try loosing the jib. I was told the jib should not be roller with less than 2/3's of the sail out. But rolling more is an easy thing to just try. Althought it's a bitch to roll in high wind, even in irons. I'll check the rudder being down too! The bungie chord sounds like a good idea. Frank
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Ray Bowles
Frank, Move your jib sheet blocks further forward
when reefing with your roller furling jib and she'll be a whole new boat. Because the jib sheet clue attachment point raises up so high as you roll in the jib when reefing you can't get enough downward tension to keep the jib from lufting and it beats itself to death. I found that by adding a temporary block assembly to the forward cabin lifeline stanchion base I could advance the anchor point for the jib sheets about 14 inches. I now was able to control the jib a heck of a lot better. Actually, one hell of a lot better. Since our H26 only has the factory mounted jib sheet block attachment point this was the only way I could try something different. I now need to add a permante mount for this item. But, as with everything else, it must work its position on out list up somewhat higher. Try it and you will like the results. Ray S/V Speedy
when reefing with your roller furling jib and she'll be a whole new boat. Because the jib sheet clue attachment point raises up so high as you roll in the jib when reefing you can't get enough downward tension to keep the jib from lufting and it beats itself to death. I found that by adding a temporary block assembly to the forward cabin lifeline stanchion base I could advance the anchor point for the jib sheets about 14 inches. I now was able to control the jib a heck of a lot better. Actually, one hell of a lot better. Since our H26 only has the factory mounted jib sheet block attachment point this was the only way I could try something different. I now need to add a permante mount for this item. But, as with everything else, it must work its position on out list up somewhat higher. Try it and you will like the results. Ray S/V Speedy
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Jim Schaff
Unfurl the Jib
Frank, With your jib furled, your steering is limited. If that happens again, unfurl your jib and loosen up on the sheets some. You'll get enough power and control to come about. Jim Schaff s/v Morning Glory
Frank, With your jib furled, your steering is limited. If that happens again, unfurl your jib and loosen up on the sheets some. You'll get enough power and control to come about. Jim Schaff s/v Morning Glory
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Gerard
sail balance
Hi Frank- If I understand correctly and your main was out and the jib was in, then it's very likely your sail balance was way way off. At this point your main would be spilling air and your jib would be driving the boat. Since the jib was furled, you have a small amount of canvas all the way forward doing all the work, and in fact likely overpowered. This would cause the wind to drive the front end of the boat to windward without the help of the main to balance the system. In this case the drive on the jib will overpower the rudder. The wind wins and leaves the rudder useless. Sail balance is important. The suggestion to let the jib out until just before it luffs is right on. Do you have tell tales on the main? After the jib is properly set the main should be set so that the tell tales on the main fly directly aft. I'm a big fan of instruction for new sailors. I'm sure if you hired a local instructor to spend the day with you on your boat you would find it the best investment in sailing you ever make. Good luck!
Hi Frank- If I understand correctly and your main was out and the jib was in, then it's very likely your sail balance was way way off. At this point your main would be spilling air and your jib would be driving the boat. Since the jib was furled, you have a small amount of canvas all the way forward doing all the work, and in fact likely overpowered. This would cause the wind to drive the front end of the boat to windward without the help of the main to balance the system. In this case the drive on the jib will overpower the rudder. The wind wins and leaves the rudder useless. Sail balance is important. The suggestion to let the jib out until just before it luffs is right on. Do you have tell tales on the main? After the jib is properly set the main should be set so that the tell tales on the main fly directly aft. I'm a big fan of instruction for new sailors. I'm sure if you hired a local instructor to spend the day with you on your boat you would find it the best investment in sailing you ever make. Good luck!
Sail balance is the key
The sails are like a huge rudder in the air. They are creating the unbalanced condition that you are trying to counteract underwater with the rudder. Balance the sail plan and a lot of the rudder effort (and drag) will go away. Unfortunately, you have to figure out what works for your particular boat, wind and sea conditions and sailing style. It will also change depending on how much weight you have on board, i.e. singlehanded vs two or three crew. You may even end up with ugly sails (like a bubble in the luff of the main) but sometimes that's what it takes to keep the boat on its feet. A good manual on sail trim will make a difference. Good luck and happy sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
The sails are like a huge rudder in the air. They are creating the unbalanced condition that you are trying to counteract underwater with the rudder. Balance the sail plan and a lot of the rudder effort (and drag) will go away. Unfortunately, you have to figure out what works for your particular boat, wind and sea conditions and sailing style. It will also change depending on how much weight you have on board, i.e. singlehanded vs two or three crew. You may even end up with ugly sails (like a bubble in the luff of the main) but sometimes that's what it takes to keep the boat on its feet. A good manual on sail trim will make a difference. Good luck and happy sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Crazy Dave Condon
Hi Frank
Frank; Make sure rudder is down. If that is not the case, are you carrying too much sail. Remember that I told you the boat sails faster flatter and 15% heel is the max you want. Try letting out the sails some and even furling the jib in some. If all else fails, maybe raking the mast would help. if you still have trouble, give me a holler as I amstill breathing Crayz DAVEEeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Frank; Make sure rudder is down. If that is not the case, are you carrying too much sail. Remember that I told you the boat sails faster flatter and 15% heel is the max you want. Try letting out the sails some and even furling the jib in some. If all else fails, maybe raking the mast would help. if you still have trouble, give me a holler as I amstill breathing Crayz DAVEEeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
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