We have launch!

Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Yesterday was a great spring day! It was warm but windy. Several sailors working on boats and plenty of campers in their homes on wheels.
Enough friends were available to help me launch once the wind died down some. We had several spectators near the crane area watching the show. "Gee, wouldn't it be fun to have a sailboat?" they must be thinking.
Bella went in without a hitch. Good thing with so many eyes on us. The tricky part was fighting the wind after casting off from the crane dock. It wanted to push me in to the nearby stone jetty. I was able to motor to my slip without incident. I can't remember when we have had this many boats in this early in the season.
Later that evening the wind died completely and I was able to get my sails on. Still having trouble with that Hood 810 furler. This is getting personal!
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Just curious, what's the problem with the furler?
Right now it binds when I try to bring it in. I've seen threads on how to secure the drum down in the anchor well. They are a PITA on Hunters with below deck drums. Right now it doesn't look like it furled properly up top. It was late and we didn't mess with it.
I really don't want to spend the money for a new furler, and I like the thick line on the 810.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
So, basically, it seems like two issue areas: the Swivel and the Drum. In our case, I replaced the swivel separately and it worked really well afterward. The 810 on our boat is 32 years old and still work well. The Swivel was replace a few years back, don't remember off hand when, but maybe 5 or 6 years ago. Would have to look at my boat history.
The swivel has plastic bearings and they are partly exposed to the sun (read: UV), so eventually, like anything plastic, it will degrade and that is what happened. Replacing it fixed that problem. After recognizing the UV damage I've taken to putting some plastic over it during the off season in order to protect it. I've thought about making a small canvas/Sunbrella cover for just the swivel. Have the measurements (somewhere) but just haven't got 'round to it.
As for the drum, it should be secured with a shackle so it doesn't go up but you apparently know that. Don't know if you have the Hood Manual but, if not, it is on-line here on the H35 page in *.pdf.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Where the strap is attached at it's bottom there is a cross bar and there is another cross bar further up. Remove the strap and try a shackle on the upper cross bar and see if that works.
There is already something on the upper bar ... what is it for? Anything to do with the "strap"?
Where the drum opening is for the continuous line, it is fairly large so "some slop" is okay, but what you're saying is the strap allows too much wiggle room.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Where the strap is attached at it's bottom there is a cross bar and there is another cross bar further up. Remove the strap and try a shackle on the upper cross bar and see if that works.
There is already something on the upper bar ... what is it for? Anything to do with the "strap"?
Where the drum opening is for the continuous line, it is fairly large so "some slop" is okay, but what you're saying is the strap allows too much wiggle room.
The upper bar on the chainplate is where the forestry attaches. Yes, the strap lets the drum rotate both directions and then it binds.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Justin -
For info, I haven't dealt with the furler for many years so insufficient local knowledge memory available here. However, when looking at the Manual there is one thought that comes to mind. First off ...
Question: did you find the 710/810/910 Hood Installation and Owner's Manual on this "SBO" web site, H35? HunterOwners.com downloads
Another Question: Does the Sheave Cover P/N #17 slip or rotate independently of the Bearing Tube #16, or is it firmly attached?
Just thinking that maybe the drum is moving relative to the Bearing Tube. Reference page 19 of the *.pdf document or page 18 of the original paper document.

Is the Sheave Cover reasonably aligned with the continuous furler line? If not, then the Sheave Cover can be rotated for a better alignment by loosening the Cover Clamp Screw P/N #19.

If the vertical spacing of the Sheave Cover to Sheave Top P/N #9 is good then measure the gap space before loosening the Cover Clamp Screw so the gap can be replicated. The stainless steel bolt may have corrosion issues with the aluminum so a bit of NeverSeze would be helpful.

Basically, one has to find a way to prevent too much "slop" when rotating the drum. I think a "cleaner installation" with a shackle to the upper bar would be helpful and it looks like there is room. It might not do enough to prevent sideway movement, though. If the forestay is attached there that should help reduce or block a lot of sideway movement.

Hope this helps.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
John. I put the mod on the drum but it didn't improve the furling. The base is stable now anyway. We did see this time that the halyard was wrapping around the upper tackle. The manual cautions you about this. It's a factor of the length between the sail tack and the tack shackle on the drum that determines the spacing above. I lengthened the connection at the tack so that the spacing above was minimized. Pictured in the manual. Now it doesn't get fouled up and (un)furls properly. I will see if this adjustment works best and build a wire connection so it stays consistent. Manual says to do this if it is greater than 6" . It's more like 12" now. Up a couple inches from before. I always tried to use the length that the P.O. said to, but it looks like his mark was just on the ragged edge of the tolerance.
I was hoping to use it today but it is yucky out.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
With the halyard-wrap issue caught it seems like you've got it under control now so that'll make sailing a lot more relaxing. Besides zeroing in on the halyard angle to reduce wrap, the one other thing is the swivel bearings do age with UV over the years. A new swivel spins freely but with an older one the bearings get kinda "gritty" with time and aren't as smooth rolling so that isn't helpful, either. It's nice having a newer boat because everything works better but as we age, ... I mean the boat, some things don't work as well.
Hope the test sail goes well so it will confirm the solution.
Yucky weather, we know about that. Temperatures way below normal and windy (cold wind chill), not good for bike riding.