Can anyone present a consise primer on what type of lubricant to use for particular "systems" on a boat and on the other hand what you should never use. Andy "Baroque"
WD, silicone, teflon: Use what for what?
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I prefer dry lubes like Sailkote for most uses,
I use WD40 like a penetrating oil for anything that's supposed to move and is rusted in place to break it free then a dry lube. "Torlon" and some other types of bearings used in some furlers should never be lubed but rinsed with fresh water.
I use WD40 like a penetrating oil for anything that's supposed to move and is rusted in place to break it free then a dry lube. "Torlon" and some other types of bearings used in some furlers should never be lubed but rinsed with fresh water.
WD40 is for metals
It slightly dissolves some plastic surfaces like sail slides and makes them sticky. Sailkote is far better for that job. Just be careful what you use on plastic and you will probably be ok. WD40 also has a tendency to evaporate over time and leaves a sticky oil residue - even on metal. Ask a vacuum cleaner repairman. Boeshield ?sp is best for preventing corrosion. CRC is a better lubricant than WD40 as I recall. I like just about any vegetable oil in the head. It will make rubber gaskets soft and pliable - some kinds of rubber gaskets will actually swell a lot from contact with oils and solvents. A little vinegar will help prevent corrosion of the holding tank. Never never never use bleach in an aluminum tank (water or holding) - I do not care what anyone else says. I will not ever have an aluminum water or holding tank again. There are other disinfectants and cleaners which do not corrode aluminum. Be very careful what kind of cleaner you use on aluminum or stainless steel. Two things about stainless steel - it is not stainless and it is not steel. To break rusted metal parts free, Coke or Pepsi works much better than WD40.
It slightly dissolves some plastic surfaces like sail slides and makes them sticky. Sailkote is far better for that job. Just be careful what you use on plastic and you will probably be ok. WD40 also has a tendency to evaporate over time and leaves a sticky oil residue - even on metal. Ask a vacuum cleaner repairman. Boeshield ?sp is best for preventing corrosion. CRC is a better lubricant than WD40 as I recall. I like just about any vegetable oil in the head. It will make rubber gaskets soft and pliable - some kinds of rubber gaskets will actually swell a lot from contact with oils and solvents. A little vinegar will help prevent corrosion of the holding tank. Never never never use bleach in an aluminum tank (water or holding) - I do not care what anyone else says. I will not ever have an aluminum water or holding tank again. There are other disinfectants and cleaners which do not corrode aluminum. Be very careful what kind of cleaner you use on aluminum or stainless steel. Two things about stainless steel - it is not stainless and it is not steel. To break rusted metal parts free, Coke or Pepsi works much better than WD40.
Stainless isn't stainless?
I respectfully beg to differ. It is stainless and it is steel. However, it is not stain-proof, and given the proper conditions, it will rust. FWIW, stainless is steel with chrome & nickel added to the soup mix. The definition of stainless is steel with a minimum of 11% chrome added. 304 is 18cr-8ni, 316 is 16-18cr - 10-14 ni. Probably more than you care to know!
I respectfully beg to differ. It is stainless and it is steel. However, it is not stain-proof, and given the proper conditions, it will rust. FWIW, stainless is steel with chrome & nickel added to the soup mix. The definition of stainless is steel with a minimum of 11% chrome added. 304 is 18cr-8ni, 316 is 16-18cr - 10-14 ni. Probably more than you care to know!
Harry, what are you differing about?
Steel is 99.5+% iron. Stainless is 65-75% iron with a lot of chrome and nickel added. If steel is the same as stainless steel, bread is the same as chochlate cake. I have rust stains which came from "stainless" steel so I say it is not stainless.
Steel is 99.5+% iron. Stainless is 65-75% iron with a lot of chrome and nickel added. If steel is the same as stainless steel, bread is the same as chochlate cake. I have rust stains which came from "stainless" steel so I say it is not stainless.
Reg Green
Red Green is a Canadian comic who claims you only need two “tools”: WD-40 for things that should move, but don’t. Duct Tape for things that move, but shouldn’t.
Red Green is a Canadian comic who claims you only need two “tools”: WD-40 for things that should move, but don’t. Duct Tape for things that move, but shouldn’t.
Patrick, Stainless as the name implies
is stain-LESS. As you point out, it contains iron..iron rusts. The cause of rust on your chain plates could come from a couple of reasons. They could be made from a general purpose grade such as T-304 or T-303 which has a lower resistence to corrosion. Most marine grades are (should be) made from T-316 which is more expensive. 304 in a harsh enviornment- salt water- (through in a little heat from the sun) will corrode over time. It's highly possible you have 304 in a 316 application. If you use wood in contact with water it will rot. If you use properly treated wood it won't..They are both wood. The treated has chemicals added to enhance corrosion resistence.
is stain-LESS. As you point out, it contains iron..iron rusts. The cause of rust on your chain plates could come from a couple of reasons. They could be made from a general purpose grade such as T-304 or T-303 which has a lower resistence to corrosion. Most marine grades are (should be) made from T-316 which is more expensive. 304 in a harsh enviornment- salt water- (through in a little heat from the sun) will corrode over time. It's highly possible you have 304 in a 316 application. If you use wood in contact with water it will rot. If you use properly treated wood it won't..They are both wood. The treated has chemicals added to enhance corrosion resistence.
Harry, tell us more. Why is 316 more cash?
From those numbers, the 'perfect' marine metal should be priced like any other stainless. Is it just because it's the perfect formula, like 'pure' water? Gord, it's fun to mix the two. For some reason, duct tape quits 'ducttapping'. Ooh, I better get a life,
From those numbers, the 'perfect' marine metal should be priced like any other stainless. Is it just because it's the perfect formula, like 'pure' water? Gord, it's fun to mix the two. For some reason, duct tape quits 'ducttapping'. Ooh, I better get a life,
I always use WD40 to -
remove the stains that duct tape leaves behind (on my stainless steel). What we really need is stainless steel duct tape. It would cost a lot especially the marine grade 316. I have to go put my dictionary away now and then eat some chocolate bread on my sail-boat...
remove the stains that duct tape leaves behind (on my stainless steel). What we really need is stainless steel duct tape. It would cost a lot especially the marine grade 316. I have to go put my dictionary away now and then eat some chocolate bread on my sail-boat...
Uhhhh...Actually...
They do make Stainless Steel duct tape! I'm pretty sure I still have some in the workshop, though I doubt that it is 316.
They do make Stainless Steel duct tape! I'm pretty sure I still have some in the workshop, though I doubt that it is 316.
Chris
Whether it is 316 or not depends on what the meaning of is is. Was it four times more expensive? Does WD40 remove the gooey stain it leaves benind on your chainplates? Sorry, Andy - I will stop now...
Whether it is 316 or not depends on what the meaning of is is. Was it four times more expensive? Does WD40 remove the gooey stain it leaves benind on your chainplates? Sorry, Andy - I will stop now...
Gord,
I don't know whether Mr. green originated that statement or not, but it has been axiomatic here in the South for as long as I can remember (ironically, the longer that I am around, the shorter that seems to be). There is a corollary on duct tape here as well. If duct tape won't hold it...it ain't broke...or you don't need it.
I don't know whether Mr. green originated that statement or not, but it has been axiomatic here in the South for as long as I can remember (ironically, the longer that I am around, the shorter that seems to be). There is a corollary on duct tape here as well. If duct tape won't hold it...it ain't broke...or you don't need it.
Fred, 316 stainless
is more because it is 10 to 14% nickel and 16 to 18% chrome and contains moly. More expensive vegetables in the soup mix. 304 is about 8% ni, and also 18 chrome. There is no "ideal" stainless..depends on the application and enviornment. 304 works very well in a lot of marine applications. Stantions come to mind. "Good" blocks are 316. Cheap ones are 304. 316 in addition to having superior corrosion resistance is also stronger. You won't see any rusty 316 on a boat. Common to see rust spots on 304 over time. The older the boat, the more rust specs. If you really want corrosion & strength, space shuttle stuff, you can use inconel or monel! USCG uses monel for shaftinfg on some of their boats. Aquamet 22 is about the best for pleasure craft. Stuff never cosrrodes. Big Bucks.
is more because it is 10 to 14% nickel and 16 to 18% chrome and contains moly. More expensive vegetables in the soup mix. 304 is about 8% ni, and also 18 chrome. There is no "ideal" stainless..depends on the application and enviornment. 304 works very well in a lot of marine applications. Stantions come to mind. "Good" blocks are 316. Cheap ones are 304. 316 in addition to having superior corrosion resistance is also stronger. You won't see any rusty 316 on a boat. Common to see rust spots on 304 over time. The older the boat, the more rust specs. If you really want corrosion & strength, space shuttle stuff, you can use inconel or monel! USCG uses monel for shaftinfg on some of their boats. Aquamet 22 is about the best for pleasure craft. Stuff never cosrrodes. Big Bucks.
Patrick...
This stuff is so purty that I've never pulled any off to have to deal with any gooey residue. As to expense...it was given to me and I've never seen it on a store shelf, so I have no comparisons.
This stuff is so purty that I've never pulled any off to have to deal with any gooey residue. As to expense...it was given to me and I've never seen it on a store shelf, so I have no comparisons.
Thanks Harry.
I used monel for my ski-boat shaft. Buck an inch. Horribly expensive! That was 1972.
I used monel for my ski-boat shaft. Buck an inch. Horribly expensive! That was 1972.
WD-40
WD-40 is a water displacing oil (hence WD, it was the fortieth oil they tried). It is, in fact, not a very good lubricant. It is excellent for removing water from electronic gear. If soaked in salt water, rinse in fresh water, shake or blot dry then saturate with WD-40. CRC is a much better lubricant as are LPS and some others. LPS, for example, comes in several grades including LPS 4 which is an excellent chain lube for the roller chain in your wheel steering if you have one. Coke and Pepsi work to remove rust because of their phosphoric acid content which complexes Ferric iron. Ospho, Naval Jelly and several other gell type cleaners are much richer in phosphoric acid and are excellent for removing rust. They can be diluted in water and used to remove rust stains on your boat but rinse thoroughly after use. Ordinary penetrating oil is good on rusted bolts and screws but nothing beats the old impact driver and a big hammer. Sears sells an excellent impact driver in a nice plastic case with several sizes or philips and straight bits. Fits 1/4 inch drive sockets too. I get greasy working on the engine and a can or tube of waterless hand cleaner is invaluable to get back in shape to appear in my office on Monday. Actually tubes are better than the big cans as they are used up faster and the stuff is fresher and probably hasn't yet separated from the heat. Hand cleaner will clean a lot of other stains as well and it washes off with water. A little can of 3 in 1 oil will stop most squeeks and screeches. They also sell 10 weight motor oil in small cans which is good for larger parts and for assembly lube on bolts and nuts on which you intend to use a torque wrench. I have a tube of Teflon grease handy for anything that needs a surface greasing but make sure that you use the recommended grease for serious applications such as on engines and transmissions.
WD-40 is a water displacing oil (hence WD, it was the fortieth oil they tried). It is, in fact, not a very good lubricant. It is excellent for removing water from electronic gear. If soaked in salt water, rinse in fresh water, shake or blot dry then saturate with WD-40. CRC is a much better lubricant as are LPS and some others. LPS, for example, comes in several grades including LPS 4 which is an excellent chain lube for the roller chain in your wheel steering if you have one. Coke and Pepsi work to remove rust because of their phosphoric acid content which complexes Ferric iron. Ospho, Naval Jelly and several other gell type cleaners are much richer in phosphoric acid and are excellent for removing rust. They can be diluted in water and used to remove rust stains on your boat but rinse thoroughly after use. Ordinary penetrating oil is good on rusted bolts and screws but nothing beats the old impact driver and a big hammer. Sears sells an excellent impact driver in a nice plastic case with several sizes or philips and straight bits. Fits 1/4 inch drive sockets too. I get greasy working on the engine and a can or tube of waterless hand cleaner is invaluable to get back in shape to appear in my office on Monday. Actually tubes are better than the big cans as they are used up faster and the stuff is fresher and probably hasn't yet separated from the heat. Hand cleaner will clean a lot of other stains as well and it washes off with water. A little can of 3 in 1 oil will stop most squeeks and screeches. They also sell 10 weight motor oil in small cans which is good for larger parts and for assembly lube on bolts and nuts on which you intend to use a torque wrench. I have a tube of Teflon grease handy for anything that needs a surface greasing but make sure that you use the recommended grease for serious applications such as on engines and transmissions.
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