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Can't hurt. Might help.
There are those who might think it's redundant, Ken, but us anal retentive types just want to add the final touch - just in case.
There are those who might think it's redundant, Ken, but us anal retentive types just want to add the final touch - just in case.
I've never done it.
But I wonder if wax would make sanding more difficult. Also, it seems like wax would settle into the wood and would form a barrier which would prevent penetration of teak oil or varnish in the future. I'm interested in knowing what others have to say.
But I wonder if wax would make sanding more difficult. Also, it seems like wax would settle into the wood and would form a barrier which would prevent penetration of teak oil or varnish in the future. I'm interested in knowing what others have to say.
What happens when it's time to refinish?
Does the wax build-up cause a problem with bonding of new varnish/finish?
Does the wax build-up cause a problem with bonding of new varnish/finish?
noooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm a yacht varnisher by trade and would have to strongly suggest you do not wax your brightwork. The wax will leave a sheen on the wood that may not be completely worn off the next time you sand and coat. The resulting coat will contain "fish-eyes", small circles where the phenolic oils in varnish separate from the wax. Wax can be removed from the wood with denatured alcohol but you might not get all of it. Threfore it is not advised.
I'm a yacht varnisher by trade and would have to strongly suggest you do not wax your brightwork. The wax will leave a sheen on the wood that may not be completely worn off the next time you sand and coat. The resulting coat will contain "fish-eyes", small circles where the phenolic oils in varnish separate from the wax. Wax can be removed from the wood with denatured alcohol but you might not get all of it. Threfore it is not advised.
Vinegar
All that I have read cautions strictly against waxing or polishing varnished brightwork, primarily for the reasons given by the previous writer. In the same reading, some white vinegar in water has been suggested to clean off the varnish witout any problem down the road when additional coats must be applied.
All that I have read cautions strictly against waxing or polishing varnished brightwork, primarily for the reasons given by the previous writer. In the same reading, some white vinegar in water has been suggested to clean off the varnish witout any problem down the road when additional coats must be applied.
I bow to the varnish professionals...
Although I don't see any reason to wax varnish, I don't think it's that big a deal if you do IMO. By the time anyone gets around to redoing varnish, the wax is gonna be long gone and if not, it's not that hard to remove. And it just might add to the life of the varnish, who knows??
Although I don't see any reason to wax varnish, I don't think it's that big a deal if you do IMO. By the time anyone gets around to redoing varnish, the wax is gonna be long gone and if not, it's not that hard to remove. And it just might add to the life of the varnish, who knows??
Brightwork
There's no doubt any wax would have to bo removed before refinishing.I guess my real question is will waxing the varnished wood postpone refinishing long enough that it is worthwhile?It seems to me if you don't have too much wood and if the wax is good quality the gain should be worth the pain.
There's no doubt any wax would have to bo removed before refinishing.I guess my real question is will waxing the varnished wood postpone refinishing long enough that it is worthwhile?It seems to me if you don't have too much wood and if the wax is good quality the gain should be worth the pain.
Well, Ken, it appears that no one has EVER
tried it. You can be the innovator. Think out of the box. Try it and we'll expect a full report. Who knows, your discovery may be the next best thing to foam brushes.
tried it. You can be the innovator. Think out of the box. Try it and we'll expect a full report. Who knows, your discovery may be the next best thing to foam brushes.
Never thought of a potneitial problem and I have been waxing the small amount of exterior teak along with the adjoining gelcoat areas on my 25.5 for years. I put a new coat or three of varnish (now cetol glossy) on the teak every year preceeded by a light sanding and a rub down with deglosser. Without the sanding and deglosser I did get some "beading" where the wax remained and noticeable "holidays" of varnish. Not pretty! With the sanding and deglosser, I have found that the new coat goes on smooth and blemish free. I don't know if wax actually does anything, but the teak finsish does seem to be in better shape at the end of the season than I remember it before I started to apply wax. Since I now use the glossy cetol, waxing also keeps my newly finished hatch boards from sticking together. That was not really a problem with varnish, but has been with the cetol.
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