I'm about halfway done waxing my hull for the first time. There's a fair amount of oxidation and chalking from the previous owner's lack of attention. I'm using 3M's Fiberglass Wax and Restorer which has some rubbing compound in it and a Porter Cable variable speed polisher but it is still alot of work. I still have to do the transom which was just relettered in paint by a pro. He compounded the surface before painting and told me to use wax only that is wiped on and wiped off - no buffing. I was going to get 3M's liquid wax. Does anyone have any thoughts on this subject? On future maintenance of what I'm doing now? If I'm not completely worn out, should I put the liquid wax over the restorer/wax I've already applied for additional protection or would that create excessive buildup? What products would you recommend for the deck which also has moderate chalking and oxidation? Thanks.
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Bob Howie
Wax on, Wax off
Well, Daniel-San, welcome to Wax Philosophies 101! Actually, you are doing just about all that can be done and since you are obviously not burning the paint off with your buffer, you're using that correctly, too. Basically wax is used not to just make things shiny and for water to bead up. It actually seals, albeit temporarily, the porousity that naturally occurs with gelcoats, fiberglas and paint as it ages. Maintaining good wax is key in the longevity of your paint. Now, wax is not a panoceia for what might be wrong with the surface; in other words, wax won't make up for bad paint or surfaces. It just helps seal the porousity, keeps dirt out and helps protect. Armour-All is also good for hulls, but it can make decks dangerously slippery so I'd advise against that. Good wax doesn't have to be expensive wax, so just about any quality wax is as good as another. For maintenance, you could use one of those spray-on, drip-dry formulas that you see all the time. You should, actually, wax the deck and coach house, but be aware that you are creating a somewhat slippery condition here on the deck, so you need to be aware of that, wear good rubber-soled deck shoes and alway remember, one hand for you, one hand for the boat. For buffing out oxidation, I would recommend any of 3M's products especially some of their commercial products available at most automotive supply houses. 3M makes a series of liquid buffing compounds; 3M Filling Glaze, 3M Polishing Glaze, 3M Finishing Glaze...all with corresponding grits. I would recommend 3M Polishing or Finishing Glaze. You can also buy what amounts to Polishing Glaze at most marine centers. It's in the same area usually as the product you are now using, but comes in a quasi-clear plastic bottle with a light brown liquid inside, calling itself 3M Heavy Duty Polishing something or another. You can't miss it. It's good stuff and does better than the bottle you are now using, but contains NO wax. I'd continue using the buffer. I hear arguments about this all the time, but I have a 30-foot boat and I would like to be able to use my arms after the annual buff-out, so I use a buffer as well. Keep the pad damp for application and then use a clean, dry one for removing the material. I think you are on the right track, so press on.
Well, Daniel-San, welcome to Wax Philosophies 101! Actually, you are doing just about all that can be done and since you are obviously not burning the paint off with your buffer, you're using that correctly, too. Basically wax is used not to just make things shiny and for water to bead up. It actually seals, albeit temporarily, the porousity that naturally occurs with gelcoats, fiberglas and paint as it ages. Maintaining good wax is key in the longevity of your paint. Now, wax is not a panoceia for what might be wrong with the surface; in other words, wax won't make up for bad paint or surfaces. It just helps seal the porousity, keeps dirt out and helps protect. Armour-All is also good for hulls, but it can make decks dangerously slippery so I'd advise against that. Good wax doesn't have to be expensive wax, so just about any quality wax is as good as another. For maintenance, you could use one of those spray-on, drip-dry formulas that you see all the time. You should, actually, wax the deck and coach house, but be aware that you are creating a somewhat slippery condition here on the deck, so you need to be aware of that, wear good rubber-soled deck shoes and alway remember, one hand for you, one hand for the boat. For buffing out oxidation, I would recommend any of 3M's products especially some of their commercial products available at most automotive supply houses. 3M makes a series of liquid buffing compounds; 3M Filling Glaze, 3M Polishing Glaze, 3M Finishing Glaze...all with corresponding grits. I would recommend 3M Polishing or Finishing Glaze. You can also buy what amounts to Polishing Glaze at most marine centers. It's in the same area usually as the product you are now using, but comes in a quasi-clear plastic bottle with a light brown liquid inside, calling itself 3M Heavy Duty Polishing something or another. You can't miss it. It's good stuff and does better than the bottle you are now using, but contains NO wax. I'd continue using the buffer. I hear arguments about this all the time, but I have a 30-foot boat and I would like to be able to use my arms after the annual buff-out, so I use a buffer as well. Keep the pad damp for application and then use a clean, dry one for removing the material. I think you are on the right track, so press on.
Island Girl
Mike: Order an Island Girl kit and you can remove oxidation and seal the gelcoat too.
Mike: Order an Island Girl kit and you can remove oxidation and seal the gelcoat too.
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Dan Ulrich
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Barry
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Jim WIllis
Howie response Plus a new approach
I take it that "waxing your boat for the first time" means that the boat is pretty new and porosity has not occured yet. If it does (on an old boat) you need to dissolve out and kill the oxidation (buffing and waxing alone will produce only temporary results). While wax will seal against water penetration. There is a downside to all waxes (although less so for a good paste wax). I do no believe that all waxes are equal, otherwise there would not be comparisons between them. The best coventional paste wax I have used is Collinite 855, but you have to really use a machine buffer (to melt the solid consituents) had buffing is killing and justs leaves a "silky" finish (although can be given a wet look with our Silkenseal. Waxes differ in their resistance to detergents provided by organofunctional silicones, toughness (some contain silicone resins) and shine (provided by dimethyl silicones- the "slippery stuff" A good wax also contains anti-oxidants to protect both it and the underlying surface. Pure wax is more like candlewax. No real shine, powdery surface and will not spread (that is what the solvents and silicones are for). ALL waxes can get stained by oily pollution run off (near refineries, aiports and roads). Removal of the black streaks removes wax too and the are should be retouched. Our Simply Brilliant Superwax is is mainly resins (3 of them) and a synthetic (non-yello) wax - no organofuntionals that can yellow. Shine is provided without buffing (just wipe on) although can be buffed when hard. The acrylic coatings (Vertglass, NewGlass, Poliglow etc) do a good job on older boats, but have a reputation for cracking, peeling and yellowing (important on a white boat). To avoid the first two problems you have to COMPLETELY REMOVE ALL WAX. On a Newish boat like yours (and especially a brand new boat) you can use Island Girl's new Mirror Hard Superglaze. You can just wipe it on over the existing wax. One coat should last clost to a year, seals in the existing wax, has anti-oxidants and is stain resistant (no wax only resin components) Can use on metal and painted surfaces too!. If you want a free sample, e-mail me though www.IslandGirlProducts.com to see if I am correct!. For non-skid, you cannot use wax (too slippery) but look at the Chandlery testimonials about non-skid sealant. Hope this is some help - more on the Gelcoat and plastics forum about fiberglass care and repair! Thanks Jim Willis There is ano I would not advise using
I take it that "waxing your boat for the first time" means that the boat is pretty new and porosity has not occured yet. If it does (on an old boat) you need to dissolve out and kill the oxidation (buffing and waxing alone will produce only temporary results). While wax will seal against water penetration. There is a downside to all waxes (although less so for a good paste wax). I do no believe that all waxes are equal, otherwise there would not be comparisons between them. The best coventional paste wax I have used is Collinite 855, but you have to really use a machine buffer (to melt the solid consituents) had buffing is killing and justs leaves a "silky" finish (although can be given a wet look with our Silkenseal. Waxes differ in their resistance to detergents provided by organofunctional silicones, toughness (some contain silicone resins) and shine (provided by dimethyl silicones- the "slippery stuff" A good wax also contains anti-oxidants to protect both it and the underlying surface. Pure wax is more like candlewax. No real shine, powdery surface and will not spread (that is what the solvents and silicones are for). ALL waxes can get stained by oily pollution run off (near refineries, aiports and roads). Removal of the black streaks removes wax too and the are should be retouched. Our Simply Brilliant Superwax is is mainly resins (3 of them) and a synthetic (non-yello) wax - no organofuntionals that can yellow. Shine is provided without buffing (just wipe on) although can be buffed when hard. The acrylic coatings (Vertglass, NewGlass, Poliglow etc) do a good job on older boats, but have a reputation for cracking, peeling and yellowing (important on a white boat). To avoid the first two problems you have to COMPLETELY REMOVE ALL WAX. On a Newish boat like yours (and especially a brand new boat) you can use Island Girl's new Mirror Hard Superglaze. You can just wipe it on over the existing wax. One coat should last clost to a year, seals in the existing wax, has anti-oxidants and is stain resistant (no wax only resin components) Can use on metal and painted surfaces too!. If you want a free sample, e-mail me though www.IslandGirlProducts.com to see if I am correct!. For non-skid, you cannot use wax (too slippery) but look at the Chandlery testimonials about non-skid sealant. Hope this is some help - more on the Gelcoat and plastics forum about fiberglass care and repair! Thanks Jim Willis There is ano I would not advise using
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Bob Howie
Island Girl
Ok...I surrender...I'm ordering Island Girl! Hell, the way everyone is talking about this stuff, it sounds better than cold beer and pizza! 'Nuff said...I'm calling in the morning!!!
Ok...I surrender...I'm ordering Island Girl! Hell, the way everyone is talking about this stuff, it sounds better than cold beer and pizza! 'Nuff said...I'm calling in the morning!!!
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Paul Bryan
island girl left streaks on the hull
I used the crystal clear product from island girl on my hull to get rid of some oxidation. It left the hull streaky and blotchy. I ended up going over it with collinite fiberglass cleaner to remove the streaks before I finished with fleetwax. No matter what new product I try, I end up using collinites fleetwax and cleaner. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I'm going to try the island girl method on the bottom of my sunfish, see how this turns out.
I used the crystal clear product from island girl on my hull to get rid of some oxidation. It left the hull streaky and blotchy. I ended up going over it with collinite fiberglass cleaner to remove the streaks before I finished with fleetwax. No matter what new product I try, I end up using collinites fleetwax and cleaner. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I'm going to try the island girl method on the bottom of my sunfish, see how this turns out.
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Joe Dickson
Poli Glow gets my vote...
I applied it to our boat last May or June, and it still looks like new....
I applied it to our boat last May or June, and it still looks like new....
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Tom
PoliGlow!!!!
Gave my 1997 H26 three coats last weekend. Looks like it just came out of the factory. I put on two coats of boat wax last year and there is no comparison.
Gave my 1997 H26 three coats last weekend. Looks like it just came out of the factory. I put on two coats of boat wax last year and there is no comparison.
Paul, did you follow instructions?
Paul: Jim normally replys to these type of things immediately. If you have any problems with his product you should email or phone him directly. There are certain procedures that you need to follow when using this product.
Paul: Jim normally replys to these type of things immediately. If you have any problems with his product you should email or phone him directly. There are certain procedures that you need to follow when using this product.
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Jim WIllis
Paul: maybe I should provide a video!
Our Clear and Sea GLow Cleanser conditioners are designed to selectively remove oxidation from all plastics, including gelcoat, hypalon and vinyl - also gum and dried gum from fenders vents etc. while impregnating the surface with a conditioner that prevents further oxidation (there are two anti-oxidants and a free radical scavenger) Also there are inhibitors of mildew and algae growth. Sea Glow also has unque fluorescent properties that restore older white or blue gelcoat luminously and make white plastics snowy white. When using on gelcoat, you do have to wipe with water-saoked towel, & then then dry to an even STEAK FREE finish (its all in the online instruction book, written instruction booklet etc). On older gelcoat a sealing coat of Silkenseal will make the Simply Brilliant Superwax (one or two coats) shine "brilliantly" and go a long way (one customer just did a 36 ft boat with about half a bottle. as good as any acrylic and outl. Collinite make nice paste wax and I recommend it to anyone who wants to go the traditional buff and wax route. I have not used their fiberglass cleaner but I gather is is the conventional sort and not designed to also do inflatable boats, upholstery, etc. Poliglow, New Glass (available on this site) and Vertglass (West Marine, Boat US) are all acrylic clear coats applied in multiple coats using a special applicator to a wax-free surface. They are all equally rated by Practical Sailor who have yet to test Island Girl's Products. Hope this clarifies things. I can always be reached through the IG web site or our number 1-800-441 4425. Generalized postings do rather give the appearance of being prejorative. Jim W
Our Clear and Sea GLow Cleanser conditioners are designed to selectively remove oxidation from all plastics, including gelcoat, hypalon and vinyl - also gum and dried gum from fenders vents etc. while impregnating the surface with a conditioner that prevents further oxidation (there are two anti-oxidants and a free radical scavenger) Also there are inhibitors of mildew and algae growth. Sea Glow also has unque fluorescent properties that restore older white or blue gelcoat luminously and make white plastics snowy white. When using on gelcoat, you do have to wipe with water-saoked towel, & then then dry to an even STEAK FREE finish (its all in the online instruction book, written instruction booklet etc). On older gelcoat a sealing coat of Silkenseal will make the Simply Brilliant Superwax (one or two coats) shine "brilliantly" and go a long way (one customer just did a 36 ft boat with about half a bottle. as good as any acrylic and outl. Collinite make nice paste wax and I recommend it to anyone who wants to go the traditional buff and wax route. I have not used their fiberglass cleaner but I gather is is the conventional sort and not designed to also do inflatable boats, upholstery, etc. Poliglow, New Glass (available on this site) and Vertglass (West Marine, Boat US) are all acrylic clear coats applied in multiple coats using a special applicator to a wax-free surface. They are all equally rated by Practical Sailor who have yet to test Island Girl's Products. Hope this clarifies things. I can always be reached through the IG web site or our number 1-800-441 4425. Generalized postings do rather give the appearance of being prejorative. Jim W
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Paul Bryan
doing something wrong
Jim, Thanks for replying. The instructions on the bottle of crystal clear are not very specific about using water afterwards but I did remember reading this on the instruction sheet that came with the product last year. I did go over the application with a wet towel. I did not towel dry it though. The streaks only came off with a cleaner. I will call for more info. Paul
Jim, Thanks for replying. The instructions on the bottle of crystal clear are not very specific about using water afterwards but I did remember reading this on the instruction sheet that came with the product last year. I did go over the application with a wet towel. I did not towel dry it though. The streaks only came off with a cleaner. I will call for more info. Paul
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