I just purchase a 1998 Beneteau 352 and have lost the use of fresh water. I filled the tanks, turned the manifold valves parallel to the lines and flipped the water pump switch.....nothing. The filter next to the pump has water in it but it seems like the tank is empty. Any tricks/tests???
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nothing?
Robert: you "...flipped the water pump switch.....nothing..." I think the solution would be obvious (fix the pump or wiring), were this actually true. Does the pump actually run, then quickly “load up”? This would indicate an air-lock, which can be (eventually) eliminated by opening all the water faucets. Better yet, is to open the water pipe immediately downstream of pump. I use a “Tee” Valve, connected in-line with water distribution pipe, and “T” open to drain. Turn on pump, switch valve to open “T”, close when “T” begins to discharge un-aerated water . HTH Gord Tank--Pump--T--Open Faucet
Robert: you "...flipped the water pump switch.....nothing..." I think the solution would be obvious (fix the pump or wiring), were this actually true. Does the pump actually run, then quickly “load up”? This would indicate an air-lock, which can be (eventually) eliminated by opening all the water faucets. Better yet, is to open the water pipe immediately downstream of pump. I use a “Tee” Valve, connected in-line with water distribution pipe, and “T” open to drain. Turn on pump, switch valve to open “T”, close when “T” begins to discharge un-aerated water . HTH Gord Tank--Pump--T--Open Faucet
nothing....
The water was working fine...When the pressure would decrease I would just hit the water pump and the pressure would return. I have not really used all that much water, being that I just took delivery, but it seemed like it was working. I was thinking about pulling the tank inlet hose and hitting the switch to see if the pump will pump water. I checked for air locks and that seems fine....It's either the pump or tank...I checked the wiring and it looked fine. Do tanks fail or is it always the pump?
The water was working fine...When the pressure would decrease I would just hit the water pump and the pressure would return. I have not really used all that much water, being that I just took delivery, but it seemed like it was working. I was thinking about pulling the tank inlet hose and hitting the switch to see if the pump will pump water. I checked for air locks and that seems fine....It's either the pump or tank...I checked the wiring and it looked fine. Do tanks fail or is it always the pump?
hitting the pump
I would turn the switch on the electrical panel to the on position - as I was told "never to leave the fresh water pump switch in the on position" in order to prevent the pump from running dry.
I would turn the switch on the electrical panel to the on position - as I was told "never to leave the fresh water pump switch in the on position" in order to prevent the pump from running dry.
So, are you saying that you are turning on the
pump breaker when you get low water flow and the water volume increases because the pump then runs?
pump breaker when you get low water flow and the water volume increases because the pump then runs?
I think you need to
keep the freshwater pump switch on the on position at all times when you are operating the boat. I have a Beneteau 361 and the freshwater system will not work without that switch being on the on position. That pump turns on whenever you are using the water so you want the switch on the on position because if it turns on without you using the water that tells you you have a leak in your freshwater system. If the filters are clean and the freshwater pump switch is on the on position you should be able to get water unless the freshwater pump is broken. My guess is the freshwater pump needs to be replaced. Thanks, Tom
keep the freshwater pump switch on the on position at all times when you are operating the boat. I have a Beneteau 361 and the freshwater system will not work without that switch being on the on position. That pump turns on whenever you are using the water so you want the switch on the on position because if it turns on without you using the water that tells you you have a leak in your freshwater system. If the filters are clean and the freshwater pump switch is on the on position you should be able to get water unless the freshwater pump is broken. My guess is the freshwater pump needs to be replaced. Thanks, Tom
Fred
yes, when I would hit the switch the pressure would increase - I did this maybe twice. now when I hit the switch nothing happens. I will leave the switch on for a few minutes and see what happens.
yes, when I would hit the switch the pressure would increase - I did this maybe twice. now when I hit the switch nothing happens. I will leave the switch on for a few minutes and see what happens.
RE: Tom
I was thinking along the same lines, but it was working just fine and when I went to use it an hour later - I couldn't get any water out of the faucet. I just though it was a bit odd...
I was thinking along the same lines, but it was working just fine and when I went to use it an hour later - I couldn't get any water out of the faucet. I just though it was a bit odd...
A quick test
Turn the Pump "ON" - you should hear it running. If not check Breaker or Fuse. Open Faucet. Wait ... It may take as much as 10 minutes to push any air out the lines. See also my first reply, suggesting a "bleeding" T-Valve.
Turn the Pump "ON" - you should hear it running. If not check Breaker or Fuse. Open Faucet. Wait ... It may take as much as 10 minutes to push any air out the lines. See also my first reply, suggesting a "bleeding" T-Valve.
The Concept of Never Leaving It On...
...Robert, is relatively a simple one. If you're not down below and the pump starts running, and you can't hear it, you could lose all your water. That's not really a problem for us recreational day sailors. If you feel better, then leave it off when sailing, but it doesn't make sense to just hit the switch to get water when you need it, turn it off immediately, and then let the pressure turn down and start all over again. If you had a pump in your house, would you do that? Sometimes ya just gotta input some logic. You could always get an accumulator which would essentially do that but would keep UP the water pressure. Avoid the dreaded "someone told me bulls*t," and figure out and/or learn WHY, then you'll know why and can make your own choices. Good luck, Stu
...Robert, is relatively a simple one. If you're not down below and the pump starts running, and you can't hear it, you could lose all your water. That's not really a problem for us recreational day sailors. If you feel better, then leave it off when sailing, but it doesn't make sense to just hit the switch to get water when you need it, turn it off immediately, and then let the pressure turn down and start all over again. If you had a pump in your house, would you do that? Sometimes ya just gotta input some logic. You could always get an accumulator which would essentially do that but would keep UP the water pressure. Avoid the dreaded "someone told me bulls*t," and figure out and/or learn WHY, then you'll know why and can make your own choices. Good luck, Stu
I agree with Stu.
While you are on the boat, leave the pump on so that the lines and pump stay full. Another reason to leave it on while you're on the boat is to listen for the pump to cycle with all faucets shut off. If the pump cycles, it means you have a leak in the system somewhere that needs to be fixed.
While you are on the boat, leave the pump on so that the lines and pump stay full. Another reason to leave it on while you're on the boat is to listen for the pump to cycle with all faucets shut off. If the pump cycles, it means you have a leak in the system somewhere that needs to be fixed.
A few thoughts
Robert, I had a similar problem soon after taking delivery of my 361. There were two independent problems that eventually required the replacement of the pump (under warranty, of course). First, there was an obstruction of silicone glue between the strainer and the pump. The obstruction was not complete, but enough to lower the flow quite a bit. Second, the pump pressure switch, the one that shuts off the pump when the pressure reaches a given level, was only turning off at very high pressures. As a result, the pump would have to work very hard before it would switch off and the pressure was so high that water would start to leak from the pressure relief valve of the water heater. Eventually, the pump died, not electrically but hydraulically: it would turn on but no water would come out. After I got my new pump, I replaced the valves and diaphragm from the old pump and now I use it for pumping salt water to wash the anchor. Recommendations: 1) If the pump does not turn on when you “hit” the switch, either it is fried or its has blown a fuse. 2) If the pump makes noise when switched on, connect the inlet of the pump to a hose and a water bucket. If it pumps water, the obstruction is between the pump and the tank. 3) If no water comes out, disconnect the outlet of the pump and see if water flows. If there is flow but it generates only low pressure when you try to stop the flow with your finger, that is if you can easily interrupt the flow, the pump has a problem inside and need to be fixed or replaced. 4) If water comes out with good pressure and flow, when the outlet is disconnected from the pipes, then your obstruction is in beyond the pump. As to whether to leave the pump on all the time, I believe that if you are lucky most of the time you will have no problems. However, there will be the time when your water tank gets empty just before you turn off your water faucet leaving air in the pump. In that case, and unless you can hear the noise, the pump will continue to run with air in it and will never reach the shut off pressure. This will fry your pump both electrically and hydraulically. I have an accumulator that provides quite a bit of water after the pump is turned off. When the water flow drops, or when I am about to take a shower, I turn the pump on and leave it until I no longer need the water. I is just one more layer of safety to protect the pump in that rare but not impossible case where air gets into the pump but water is still flowing when you turn off the faucet. Live and learn, Good luck Rob.
Robert, I had a similar problem soon after taking delivery of my 361. There were two independent problems that eventually required the replacement of the pump (under warranty, of course). First, there was an obstruction of silicone glue between the strainer and the pump. The obstruction was not complete, but enough to lower the flow quite a bit. Second, the pump pressure switch, the one that shuts off the pump when the pressure reaches a given level, was only turning off at very high pressures. As a result, the pump would have to work very hard before it would switch off and the pressure was so high that water would start to leak from the pressure relief valve of the water heater. Eventually, the pump died, not electrically but hydraulically: it would turn on but no water would come out. After I got my new pump, I replaced the valves and diaphragm from the old pump and now I use it for pumping salt water to wash the anchor. Recommendations: 1) If the pump does not turn on when you “hit” the switch, either it is fried or its has blown a fuse. 2) If the pump makes noise when switched on, connect the inlet of the pump to a hose and a water bucket. If it pumps water, the obstruction is between the pump and the tank. 3) If no water comes out, disconnect the outlet of the pump and see if water flows. If there is flow but it generates only low pressure when you try to stop the flow with your finger, that is if you can easily interrupt the flow, the pump has a problem inside and need to be fixed or replaced. 4) If water comes out with good pressure and flow, when the outlet is disconnected from the pipes, then your obstruction is in beyond the pump. As to whether to leave the pump on all the time, I believe that if you are lucky most of the time you will have no problems. However, there will be the time when your water tank gets empty just before you turn off your water faucet leaving air in the pump. In that case, and unless you can hear the noise, the pump will continue to run with air in it and will never reach the shut off pressure. This will fry your pump both electrically and hydraulically. I have an accumulator that provides quite a bit of water after the pump is turned off. When the water flow drops, or when I am about to take a shower, I turn the pump on and leave it until I no longer need the water. I is just one more layer of safety to protect the pump in that rare but not impossible case where air gets into the pump but water is still flowing when you turn off the faucet. Live and learn, Good luck Rob.
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