Ok, I have owned a 1983 Oday 25 since last year. This is our second sailing season and we have done lots of things to or beloved "Initium" to upgrade and basic maintainence stuff. Last year and again this year there is water below the removable floor boards in the cabin. I have a portable hand bilgepump that I have tried to remove the water with and pump as I might the water level only goes down a small amount and as soon as I stop pumping the water returns to the original level. The water never comes higher that the boards into the cabin. There is some water that escapes from this spot from actual sailing (heeling). 1. Is it supposed to be there? if not: 2. Where does it come from? 3. How do I get rid of it? We are newish sailors and owners so we are just kinda working our way through and learning the boat thing as we go. Thanks Ed
Water under the cabin floor boards!!!
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E
Elliot
shouldn't be there
Water should not be there. Since it reaches a specific level and stops, I don't think that it is comming from outside the boat. Otherwise it would just keep comming in until it sinks. Is there a water tank that is at the same level as the bilge water? If so it is probably a leaking water tank that finds a level of equalibrium and then stops. If your boat is in salt water, taste the bilge water to see if it is salt or fresh. Are there trough-hulls? Is your sink draining into the bilge? Mysterious...
Water should not be there. Since it reaches a specific level and stops, I don't think that it is comming from outside the boat. Otherwise it would just keep comming in until it sinks. Is there a water tank that is at the same level as the bilge water? If so it is probably a leaking water tank that finds a level of equalibrium and then stops. If your boat is in salt water, taste the bilge water to see if it is salt or fresh. Are there trough-hulls? Is your sink draining into the bilge? Mysterious...
J
jeff schramm
25 oday
I have a 26 and I also get some water in the compartment below the floor bords , i would look into the chainplates as they are a common spot for water to enter and they can ultimately damage your structural integrity of the boat by rotting out the bulkheads on the port and starboard sides of the boat . also if the boat is a centerbord model look at the hose fitting that houses the cable to raise and lower the board. another possibility is the sink or the fridge which almost definitely drains below the floor boards. check under the seating area and look at the hose that drains that area thru to the stern . you will find it sooner or later !
I have a 26 and I also get some water in the compartment below the floor bords , i would look into the chainplates as they are a common spot for water to enter and they can ultimately damage your structural integrity of the boat by rotting out the bulkheads on the port and starboard sides of the boat . also if the boat is a centerbord model look at the hose fitting that houses the cable to raise and lower the board. another possibility is the sink or the fridge which almost definitely drains below the floor boards. check under the seating area and look at the hose that drains that area thru to the stern . you will find it sooner or later !
Thanks!!!!!
I have done a ceration amount of searching and it seems that it may just be the combination of those things you have mentioned. I beleive I have slight leaks at the location of chain plates on the deck AND what's up with the drain cooler going in there? Why wouldn't they drain outboard like the sink? Is there something that prevents me from puttin a "Y" into the sink drain and connecting the tube from the cooler to it so that the ice melt goes outboard? AGAIN....THANKS to both of you for your input. Ed & Lori
I have done a ceration amount of searching and it seems that it may just be the combination of those things you have mentioned. I beleive I have slight leaks at the location of chain plates on the deck AND what's up with the drain cooler going in there? Why wouldn't they drain outboard like the sink? Is there something that prevents me from puttin a "Y" into the sink drain and connecting the tube from the cooler to it so that the ice melt goes outboard? AGAIN....THANKS to both of you for your input. Ed & Lori
H
Herb Parsons
Leaking Chainplates/Cooler Answers
First, the chainplates. You said "I beleive I have slight leaks at the location of chain plates on the deck." Even a slight leak is a bad thing. You should remove the chainplates completely, inspect the deck material and the bulkheads for rot and strength, replace the chainplates and rebed them. Don Casey, in his book "This Old Boat" said this should be done every year on older boats (20 years was the age he gave). I didn't believe that you had to go that far, that a visual inspection was enough. What I didn't realize was that small amounts of water were leaking down my chainplates, rotting the bulkheads, and the nice teak laminate was covering up the rot very nicely. The only way I would have known was to remove the chainplates and inspect the wood. Recently, one of the chainplates pulled loose. With no support on the starboard side, the mast came down. So, now instead of only having to pull the chainplates and rebed them, I have to replace the bulkhead. Don was right, I was wrong. Go figure. On your cooler. The reason it's not connected to the drain from your sink is that the drain on the cooler sits lower than the drain on the sink. You can probably put a "y" connector (a previous owner of my boat did), but keep in mind that when you heel over to the port side, the opening may be lower than the waterline. This will allow water into your cooler. It shouldn't be a problem, unless you have something there you don't want we with lake or salt water (opened food, stored dry items, etc). I make it a habit to keep the seacock closed on my boat, unless I'm tied at the slip. Then, I only open it to deliberately drain the water in the sink or cooler, then close it back. I prefer that to draining into the bilge.
First, the chainplates. You said "I beleive I have slight leaks at the location of chain plates on the deck." Even a slight leak is a bad thing. You should remove the chainplates completely, inspect the deck material and the bulkheads for rot and strength, replace the chainplates and rebed them. Don Casey, in his book "This Old Boat" said this should be done every year on older boats (20 years was the age he gave). I didn't believe that you had to go that far, that a visual inspection was enough. What I didn't realize was that small amounts of water were leaking down my chainplates, rotting the bulkheads, and the nice teak laminate was covering up the rot very nicely. The only way I would have known was to remove the chainplates and inspect the wood. Recently, one of the chainplates pulled loose. With no support on the starboard side, the mast came down. So, now instead of only having to pull the chainplates and rebed them, I have to replace the bulkhead. Don was right, I was wrong. Go figure. On your cooler. The reason it's not connected to the drain from your sink is that the drain on the cooler sits lower than the drain on the sink. You can probably put a "y" connector (a previous owner of my boat did), but keep in mind that when you heel over to the port side, the opening may be lower than the waterline. This will allow water into your cooler. It shouldn't be a problem, unless you have something there you don't want we with lake or salt water (opened food, stored dry items, etc). I make it a habit to keep the seacock closed on my boat, unless I'm tied at the slip. Then, I only open it to deliberately drain the water in the sink or cooler, then close it back. I prefer that to draining into the bilge.
To Herb Parsons
Funny.... just this weekend I decided to change the drain on the chest to a Y connector going out the sink drain. I do keep the sea cock closed as well. As for the deck stuff. I bought a polyurethane calk from West Marine. I went around the entire deck and calked. hopefully that'll keep any more from getting in for now. Thanks again to all who have written Ed & Lori
Funny.... just this weekend I decided to change the drain on the chest to a Y connector going out the sink drain. I do keep the sea cock closed as well. As for the deck stuff. I bought a polyurethane calk from West Marine. I went around the entire deck and calked. hopefully that'll keep any more from getting in for now. Thanks again to all who have written Ed & Lori
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