water temp guage and oil pressure guage

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Mar 23, 2011
65
S2 9.2a Bradenton
hello, I am the proud owner of a 1980 9.2a

I am also a newbie sailor... I will be living aboard and learning to sail then sail away cruiser...

i have tons of questions, but will start off with current issues.

I have the Yanmar 2qm15 motor.. the previous owner tells me the prop is slighty over propped and was spec'd by a local builder/engineer... he wanted more power against currents... (I think over propping would be the opposite of more power, but hey, i am the newbie)

anyways, the issue i have is the motor rpm drops when i put her in forward and try to accelerate against a load... reverse is ok... but forward. not so good... lots of smoke and issues.. vibration..

i have had a few 'boat yard folk' look at it and they say
1. the motor needs to be rebuilt... bottom end is knocking bad...
#2. the stringers are cracked and
#3. the alignment is off... they say the can tell by the hub/net on teh shaft.. one side is closer thent he other.. (I cant see that small a difference and doubt i could measure it with a tape measure.. more lke a micrometer???

i dont see the stringers crack they see.. along the joint where the connctionwould be made and then glassed over... ??? I even spilled water on it to see if it would seep or collect on the edges? nothing...

anyways, i had a 'diesel' mechanic come and look at it. and he checked teh oil, and it was over full.. then he asked me about the oil, and i told him the previous owern changed teh oil with me when i bought the boat... he had me fire it up and it started right up. he said nope, the motor sounds fine.. that is what diesels sound like... he also said the stringers and mounts look great... he tried lifting, and pushing sideways, using his legs while sitting down. nothing...

he then had me throttle up, (push the acclerator foreward). and i did. the motor started increase in rpm, then it started to go even faster, even though i wasnt pushing the accelerator anymore. he had me kill the engine, and i couldnt.. I slowed the accelerator, i turned the key, and pulled the kill switch... nothing...

he shut it down from inside the cabin... he told me choked the air going into the air filter/horn.. and he decompressed teh cylanders...slightly...

he then took the air filter cover off, and stuck his finger inside and came out with oil all over it

he asked how much oil we put in and i told him 5 qts, plus a little bit...

he said that was way too much... i told him the previous owner wrote down all the specs and kept track of it all and we looked it up and yup, 1.3 gallons...

He told me to drain/suck out all the oil and measure it and it was about that much oil..

I bought that much oil and will put in two qts, and check the dipstick and keep adding oil and fill until i reach MAX on teh dipstick, actually about half way between low and high...

my question..

the dipstick originally showed the oil as being overfull, with the correct oil.. i am assuming it will show half way full, between low and high, at less then the 5.1 gallons specified...

which is correct.. the dipstick or the manual???

did yanmar realize that the motor is kinda slanted to match teh angle of the prop shaft? and if so, shorten the dipstick to allow the oil to accumulate on teh back side of teh oil pan?

anyways.. please help.. i am a solo sailor and inexperienced at that, and not sure what i would do if the motor ran away from me whil out in teh water/bay???
 
Mar 23, 2011
65
S2 9.2a Bradenton
oh, actually that has nothing to do with oil temp and water temp.. sorry.

I have another question ...

is teh sending units on teh motor 'gradual', or are they ON / OFF.. for idiot lights and warning sounds?

i want to install guages.. i want to knwo what teh water temperature is, and what the oil pressure is...

do i need to install different sending units, and if so, which ones?

Can i install seperate sending units and keep the lights and warning lights too?

thanks

bill
 
Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
Are you sure it doesn't say 1.3 liters?? My 3gm30 only takes about 2 quarts. at least certainly not over a gallon. I think that's your problem. Go by the dipstick and just put a little in at a time until you get it in the low range on the stick. If you change the filter a little oil will go in there when you start up and make your level a bit lower.
 
Last edited:
Mar 23, 2011
65
S2 9.2a Bradenton
i read it ten times, and have had ten people read it.. out loud..

it must be a msprint... it is the SELOC Yanmar manual...7400 -- Inboards 1975 -98

www.selocmarine.com

page 3-12

it has a chart with motors from 1gm to 4jh2-te

and yes, you are correct on the oil quantity for your engine, Geez, i guess you are glad that i can confirm that for ya'

but yes, that is what the book lists for your motor...

but, for mine, is is 1.3 gallons(5.1)liters which converst to 5-1/2 qt +/-

i called MASTERY engine company in St. Petersburg, FL.. they are the place to go to here... (at least that is what i was told)

and i got there 5 minutes late and they were closed.. I was on the phone with them for the 10 minutes prior begging with them as i had drove for more then an hour and there was a ton of traffic at the last 10 miles...

anyways, they told me on the phone to add 4 qts, and to check the Dipstick, and i told the guy, that i had already added 2 qts and the dipstick was full.. and he said, 'Go ahead, your the customer'

wtf??'

he obviously didnt understand.. and he obviously was rude... and in a rush.

anyways, like i said, the motor took 2 qts and a pint? i used lucas, motor additive.. per many, many folks suggestions... typically i dont use additives, but i am told i will need to add stuff tot he fuel anyways, so i better get used to it.
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
i just rebuilt one about 3 months ago (2QM15)and it only took 2 qts of oil ....so i would suck all the oil out of the crancase and then put i 1 3/4 qts of oil and then ck the dip stick and if need mor just put in a pint at a time till you read in the safe zone on the stick..... and yes Masty is the yanmar people down your way

regards

woody
 
Mar 23, 2011
65
S2 9.2a Bradenton
thank you woody..... it is good to get confirmation...I would love to have an oil pressure guage instead of a light...and water/engine temperature guage...

I got the oil in and was testing it out and the throttle cable broke right at the clevis to the motor/fuel injection pump arm... i called up a few folks i know, the PO, and no one understood what i wanted/needed.. and had someone drill out the broken cable and re-tap the clevis, but at the same time i found one at west marine for about ten bucks...

mastry told me they are discontinued... which i guess yanmar doesnt make as they dont need to.. but, hey, for this virgin, i thought i was screwed. as if no one else has a throttle to engine device already... hehehe

i get a little excited over the basic stuff, becuase i cant or rather dont know the right name/terminolgy and see the reaction from folks like they have no clue what i am talking about, so i think i am the very first person to encounter these problems...

it is good to hear and get feedback...sometimes this internet thing is a great thing...

so, while we are on a roll...any clues on how to install guages, along with the idiot lights?

and is there a list of 'replacement parts' for yanmar or other proprietary parts?

I got a v-belt today from an auto parts store that someone told me would be hard to find... (water pump belt)...
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
thank you woody..... it is good to get confirmation...I would love to have an oil pressure guage instead of a light...and water/engine temperature guage...

I got the oil in and was testing it out and the throttle cable broke right at the clevis to the motor/fuel injection pump arm... i called up a few folks i know, the PO, and no one understood what i wanted/needed.. and had someone drill out the broken cable and re-tap the clevis, but at the same time i found one at west marine for about ten bucks.

mastry told me they are discontinued... which i guess yanmar doesnt make as they dont need to.. but, hey, for this virgin, i thought i was screwed. as if no one else has a throttle to engine device already... hehehe

i think what masty ment was the 2qm15 is discontinued as in its no longer made but they do have some parts ....i am up gradeing to 2gm20f for the sake of haveing a closed cooling system along with the fact that they are still making the gm series engines and you can get all the parts

i get a little excited over the basic stuff, becuase i cant or rather dont know the right name/terminolgy and see the reaction from folks like they have no clue what i am talking about, so i think i am the very first person to encounter these problems...

yes that is human natuer at its best.....we fail to qualfy on a day to day basis

it is good to hear and get feedback...sometimes this internet thing is a great thing...

so, while we are on a roll...any clues on how to install guages, along with the idiot lights?

you can use a bronze pipe tee fot the oil pressure switch ... you can add an after market pressure sinding unite along with a guage make sure they are a matched set ......as fot the temp sending unite you can add a bronze pipe tee to the water hose tha goes to the exaughst elbow again make sure it is a matched set....but i personally think you would be wise to use the cards that were delt with engine and save your money for an egine up grade in the long run...jmho as you will have anywhere from $150 to $300 in that add on

and is there a list of 'replacement parts' for yanmar or other proprietary parts?

i have a manual on all the parts for the 2qm on my puter and can send you a copy if you like

I got a v-belt today from an auto parts store that someone told me would be hard to find... (water pump belt)...
you will in time find after market parts ei oil filters,fuel filters, and belts along with the water intake pump impellers...everything else is pretty much yanmar ....theses little engines are very tough and if you learn the basics of them can serve you will.....this boating thing is quite humbleing in regards to up keep and if you just take a little time and research you will find that its not rocket sience and will be fun to tinker with it

hope this helps

regards


woody

you will find in the long run that if you just clean the exaughts manifold water passeages and the elbow and keep good zincs in the block along with a good working thermostat and good hoses that you will have no problems.....a word of caution ....if you clean the manafold and find it to be in bad shape it may be a little thin resulting in a water leak in the water jacket it may be best to have it cleaned at a radiator shop if you are not mechanicely inclined...this is based on the fact that the history of the engine is unknown to you and you had only the sellers word on the condition ....this is not to alarm you just give you a foundation to start from ....hope this helps good luck

woody
 
Last edited:
Mar 23, 2011
65
S2 9.2a Bradenton
thanks and sorry for the delay in reply.. not sure why i wasnt notified of your reply.. hmmm...

anyways.mastery told me the part is no longer available.. but, i found a 'UNIVERSAL' part that will work perfectly.. and basically it is a clevis... from teh throttle to the fuel pump arm... i'm sure all boats have somethign similar, as they all have a cable that connects to a linear device...anyways, yanmar dont make it cause there is a ton of generic/after market parts available.. just gotta know what im looking for and ask the right questions.

i guess i can save the coins for the next engine replacement/rebuild for the 'add ons', but would love to get some confirmation of the water temperatur to make sure that 2 qts is correct...

i have rec'd a yanmar specific book for teh 2QM motor and it specs out 2qts for the capacity.. not sure why SELOC has a misprint...

in the process of changing the oil and testing and all that, i broke the throttle cable, well it broke... so, that is getting replaced at teh same time.. the original gunwall mounted single arm control is in the wrong spot.. hehehe.. i would love it on the Ritchie Pedestal... but, i guess that will cost coins too...

the original control is very sticky.. maybe i can oil it up or something??? i tried from teh front but no luck.. so since i am in the lazerette i guess i will be taking the control off to see what i can get her to do...

btw, what motor would you suggest for a replacement, if and when i get there?

and yes, i would love a list of parts and swaps for generics if you got them


thanks


bill@thelittleocean.com
 

BobM

.
Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Suggested reading:

Marine Diesel Engines: Maintenance, Troubleshooting, and Repair by
Nigel Calder

When I bought my 9.2A I was quite concerned about the learning curve I would encounter with my first diesel engine. I read everything I could get my hands on online and actually was pretty well prepared. However, I subsequently bought Calder's book to have on the boat as a reference and recommend it.

The 2QM15 is a relatively simple engine, but the care and feeding of a diesel can differ significantly from a gas engine. Babying a diesel is terrible for it and it needs to run at 80-90 percent of wide open throttle (WOT) to be efficient and not coke up. My max is 3200 rpm and I cruise at 2800 achieving a max of 5.5 knots. The factory prop on my boat is a 16RH9 Michigan Wheel. That is, 16 inch diameter, right hand rotation with a 9 pitch. In speaking to others their props were similar for the same combo, with some having a slightly smaller diameter. Diameter is less important than pitch in overloading the engine. A relatively small change in pitch can cause the engine to smoke badly under a load. It is important that the prop be sized to allow the engine to achieve hull speed at 80-90% of WOT so that it can run properly.

Fuel quality is important. If you don't know the age of the fuel in your tank, empty your tank, pull it, clean it out, check it for leaks and then re-install it or replace it. My Aluminum tank was leaking at the front lower seam and under the hold down straps at the bottom of the tank. There was diesel in my bilge and it was a pain to remove and clean out. My friend had loads of problems because (a) his fuel tank was full of sediment and (b) he thought that a smaller 2 micron primary fuel filter (mounted in the engine compartment, but not integral to the engine itself) was better than a 10 micron fuel filter. As a result he had a number of situations in rough seas where the sediment got suspended and got sucked into and clogged his filter. You should also check the o-ring on the fuel filler cap and replace it if it is cracked and failing. Water in diesel must be avoided and funneling it in through a bad o-ring in the cockpit floor due to a rain storm must be avoided. Watch the clear bowl of the primary filter for water. It should be designed to let your drain it out of the bottom of the bowl, if necessary.

I have posted a fair amount about alignment. I suggest you read up on it, as it really isn't straightforward and most people don't know what they are talking about. Don't worry about what you see now too much if the boat is on the hard. After my experience, my opinion is that any diagnosis of mis-alignment based on the angle of the shaft through the strut while on the hard is likely mistaken. Don't spin the shaft dry, be sure to lubricate it with water, but if it can't be moved significantly left to right or up / down then don't worry about the cutless bearing. Throw it in the water and then check the alignment after the boat has been in the water for a week to allow it to reshape to its natural form.

Warning. The 2QM15 has a known ignition bug where it will suddenly decide not to even think about starting when you turn the key. It will just be dead. There is a known fix involving upgrading the wiring and adding a capacitor, if I recall correctly. I have to add this to my to-do list as this happens at least twice a year on my boat, more typically in cold weather after it has sat for a while. I had replaced the starter button and futzed with the wiring to no avail many times (on the back of the ignition panel). What finally cured it last time was whacking the starter with a heavy object.


Also, for some reason Yanmar decided that the cable pull to shut off the engine wouldn't need to be stainless cable. They invariably freeze up and stop working. If yours is working, be diligent about lubricating the cable in the cockpit area. Mine has never worked. The PO set it up so that if you drop the throttle all the way it will stall, but it is not a recommended fix as it creates a hazard.

Adding gauges should be pretty straightforward. You will likely need to replace the sending units though.

Anyway. Got to get some sleep.

Bob
 
Mar 23, 2011
65
S2 9.2a Bradenton
thank you bob for your answer...

the boat is floating now... the prop spins freely...

it is a 16rh10 the PO changed it out and was advised to go with this 'slightly larger' prop to give him more power in stronger current... this seems contrary to 'my logic', (my logic not necessarily based on much, if anythiing...)

i would think larger prop would give more top end speed but you would lose low end torque???


the starter does 'lock up' sometimes... i had the same problem on an older chevy truck and tapping, WHACKING' the starter does work... i am guessint it is a starter thing and the starter is in between contacts on the commutator thingy...

changing out the sending units is the question i was asking... my logic mandated that sending units had to be different but wasnt sure if they actually did that or not...

and, i want both, (my cake and to eat it too).. i want an alarm and a guage.. i was told to get a plumbing type of tee/manifold to accomplish that.. but that adds joints that will/can leak...

I guess there are electronics out there that will allow me to set warnings and alarms, but againm i will need to change teh sending units to 'graduated' scale type vs on / off type

i will look for teh 'fix' for teh dead starter thing... for now, i just press the starter button a couple times and it starts right up...

btw: i removed the mixing elbow, and was told this needs to be done every few years, (couple hundred hours?) and in my case, the PO stated he did change it out, but i cant find the recpt for it, and i have two inches of recpts for every nut and bolt, but not for that elbow? (I found out the info on the prop thru the recpt)

the elbow was definately in need of changing.. the coke/carbon build up was 95% ... cant get a pencil in thru the water inlet fitting... and teh exhaust path is block so when you manually blow thru it it takes effort...

that part and teh coupling, (the left/right threaded piece) was $150

I am in the process of cleaning up the resuable parts, and cleaning up the threads and all that, and of course painting, (babying), the parts to make them shiny and clean, (and prevent future corrosion)

I have read two books on diesels andthey are amazingly simple designs.. wow... unfortunately one of the books i read was SELOC diesel fo yanmar engines, and it covered a dozen different marine engines, (motors that are typically used in boats?)

it specifically listed my 2qm, but, the info regarding teh quantity of motor oil is definately erred... by more then 150% it stated to have 5.1 qts of oil in this tiny block... and i have confirmed thru a yanmar book, for this speicific 2qm that it only takes 2qts and a smidgeon...

I am using 2 qts and a pt of LUCAS additive...

i didnt plan on doing motor repairs during the first month of owning my first boat, but it is what it is...I got a decent deal on the boat.. the rest of the boat is immaculate. ('cept for a rotton chainplate support on the port shroud)

and i am not prepared to do that work... it involves removal of TEAK, and probably the shelf/storage area and the settee... and wood support and fiberglass....

i cant do all that work in the time frame i want it done in... so, i will have to save my pennies and find someone to do it for me...

that has been the biggest problem for me.. i am slipped in a boat yard / dock type of marina.. they have more boats on the hard then in the slips... and yet no one will work on boats, 'cept thier own...

Finding contractors/companies/ex employees/unemployeed mechanics/technicians, is IMPOSSIBLE....

For whatever reason none of the compaines want to come to this side of tampa bay...

if i cant get my boat to the St Pete side then i am doomed to do the work myself?!?!?!?!

and i dont want to leave my boat on the hard more then an hour from where i am living? actually i am living on board, but if i am having the interior redone/repaired, i will have to vacate me and my cat temporariliy..

anyways, thanks for teh info...

if you want to get more background on me and my boat and my stupid cat, you can check it out at

www.todayssailor.com


(if that is against any rules or whatever, please delete the link, thanks) the link is not commercial and there are no financial interests involved or allowed at that site...



bill
 

BobM

.
Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
No problem

A couple of more items.

Don't crank the engine for more than ten seconds or so. There is a risk that you could suck raw water into the head if you don't have a siphon break in the raw water line fitted to the elbow. This was not a factory option.

You may wish to flush the engine with dilute acid to clean the water jacket. Calypso lost the head on his 2QM15 and found that Torrensen has perhaps the last new replacement head in existence but it is priced that way too (over $2K if I recall correctly). He bought a new engine instead. I saw the head and it cracked irreparably between the valves. I flushed my engine with dilute acid last spring as a precaution, figuring that an ounce of prevention...
 
May 18, 2004
259
J-boat 42 conn. river
re; 2QM 15

i had an O'Day 30 with the same engine for over 20 plus years.
first the 16/10 prop is the correct one for that engine. over proping that engine will only result in overloading it. found that out the hard way when i reproped with a folder that needed to be smaller dia for clearance reasons. they speced to much pitch for the new one and it would overload the engine at upper end of rpms.
don't remember quantity of oil but go by the dip stick.
cracked heads were a common problem with this engine if they were left in the original raw water cooled set up. rust would close off the passages at the rear of the engine causing a hot spot that would crack the valve seats. i had this happen to two heads until i figured out the problem.
YOU SHOULD SERIOUSLY CONSIDER CONVERTING THE ENGINE TO FRESH WATER COOLING AS I DID. THE MAJOR PROBLEM IS THAT YANMAR NO LONGER SELLS THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FOR THIS ENGINE. it has a bad habit of clogging up with rust. and blocking coolent flow. i think that i may have posted something on this site re;cleaning out the manifold and converting to fresh water cooling. check o'day 30 section.
there is a co called Sen-Dur in fla. that has the parts for the conversion.
good luck
 
Mar 23, 2011
65
S2 9.2a Bradenton
i will look into the conversion... and i guess the PO to the PO must have swapped out the prop for a smaller one then, cause i have a recpt from the PO I bought from that has the over prop being 16r10

I was just told by someone else this AM about flushing teh block and then there was a special 'coating' that was flushed thru the block for a while after the acid treatment thingy...

but he didnt say anything about conversion except to say that his motor is a FW.


i will contact sen-dur but was kinda thinking that when it came time to do motor work on this thing that i would be shopping around for a 3gm series or similar...I am in the west/southwest side of Florida, and hope to sail SOUTH, maybe within 3 years or so?

I am new, and I will be patient and take my time... I didnt really plan on buying a boat with these kinds of issues, and or needing this soon, but, I am kinda glad that they are happeing now, and i am more focused on them, and not under other pressures...

I would like to be flexible about going out and 'sailing' or motoring, but it's also a good time to learn...


I hope to meet folk locally to be able to face to face kinda thing... and am sure i will over time... for now. i am just thrilled with my boat and the choices and how they turned out, (for the most part).


anyways.... thanks for the info
 
Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
Bob, I have a 3gm30 and haven"t had head problems. Just do what you need to to get sailing safely. I found alot of helpful people at our marina. I'm always asking questions there, it works.
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
btw, what motor would you suggest for a replacement, if and when i get there?



bill@thelittleocean.com
i would go no less than a 2gm20f...it will lighten you your boat about 150lbs or so and will fit nicely in the same spot ..also give you a little more room in the engine room ...not a lot but a little more...it is possiable to put a 3gm30f in there as well ...but the 20 should be enough and you can also run your hot water heater with it......there are other engines out there i have heard that the Bata is a good one as well and a lot cheaper when buying a new engine...hope this helps..

regards

woody
 
May 2, 2008
254
S2 9.2C 1980 St. Leonard (Chesapeake Bay), MD
Last spring I replaced my 2QM15 with a Beta-Marine 16. It is slightly smaller and lighter with a bit more horsepower. It is freshwater cooled, has an oil changing pump and glowplugs. I am VERY pleased with it and the people at Beta (Stanley) are very helpful.
 

BobM

.
Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Re-powering is a matter of choice. I think Gary made the right decision and I would have made the same. With the center cockpit the re-power was much more of a challenge. He was able to do it with the help of his son and the less expensive and lighter beta 16 allowed him to do that...and it still wasn't easy from what he told me.

A small three cylinder certainly sounds attractive, from both the added power and the added smoother running of a third cylinder, however is it worth it? It depends. If you are doing it yourself, go for it. The couple of thou you will spend for the larger engine is something you will likely recoup. But if you are primarily daysailing in good weather do you need it? Unless your area has big tidal surges, probably not.

You may have to rebuild your engine cover as well. If you see an ad for an older 9.2A with an Atomic 4 the cover protrudes much further into the cabin than typical.
 
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