My 430, 1995 model has developed a leak in the forward cabin fresh water tank. Has anyone removed this tank and tried to repair. As far as I can see, the tank cannot be removed from the boat without taking off the deck. My plan is to lift it and fibreglass. I am not sure about taking the complete cabin apart. Any help?
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What's the tank made of?
If it's metal or FG, it can be repaired...but if it's poly, it's unlikely that it can be.
If it's metal or FG, it can be repaired...but if it's poly, it's unlikely that it can be.
water tank
I have the same boat and year,my rear tank was leaking,I had to cut the fiberglass under the main saloon as to take it out,its an alumuminum tank and its totally corroded,the forward tank is under the front cabin berth and ist easer to access,you will have to disasemble the berth. I dont understand why Hunter uses aluminum tanks and why they design their boats in a way that we cant service them
I have the same boat and year,my rear tank was leaking,I had to cut the fiberglass under the main saloon as to take it out,its an alumuminum tank and its totally corroded,the forward tank is under the front cabin berth and ist easer to access,you will have to disasemble the berth. I dont understand why Hunter uses aluminum tanks and why they design their boats in a way that we cant service them
aluminum water tanks
Peggie,why do manfufacturers use aluminum water tank if its known they suffer on corrosion,are plastic tanks not better?
Peggie,why do manfufacturers use aluminum water tank if its known they suffer on corrosion,are plastic tanks not better?
Aluminum is an ok choice for water holding...
They cost builders less than plastic tanks--at least they used to...and unlike aluminum waste tanks, average lifespan is at least 20 years. Most builders used aluminum for both 20+ years ago, 'cuz plastic in those days wasn't anywhere near the same quality. There are still a few holdouts who either don't trust plastic or get a better deal from an aluminum fabricator--and even a few who mistakenly think SS is superior to both aluminum and plastic...but as the quality of plastic improved and the cost came down, most builders have switched to plastic for both water and waste tanks in the last 10 years. However, the short answer to your question is, it's mostly only about cost. If aluminum tanks cost a builder less than plastic, they're gonna use aluminum tanks...'cuz as long as the tanks outlast the warranty--and they do...even a waste tank isn't likely to spring a leak for 2-10 years--that's all that matters.
They cost builders less than plastic tanks--at least they used to...and unlike aluminum waste tanks, average lifespan is at least 20 years. Most builders used aluminum for both 20+ years ago, 'cuz plastic in those days wasn't anywhere near the same quality. There are still a few holdouts who either don't trust plastic or get a better deal from an aluminum fabricator--and even a few who mistakenly think SS is superior to both aluminum and plastic...but as the quality of plastic improved and the cost came down, most builders have switched to plastic for both water and waste tanks in the last 10 years. However, the short answer to your question is, it's mostly only about cost. If aluminum tanks cost a builder less than plastic, they're gonna use aluminum tanks...'cuz as long as the tanks outlast the warranty--and they do...even a waste tank isn't likely to spring a leak for 2-10 years--that's all that matters.
Aluminum is a bad choice
for all kinds of reasons. Chlorine bleach disinfection is but one. You might try the Permaflex coating to seal the leaks and coat the inside surfaces of an aluminum tank. Note that bleach is bad for it too. I haven't used this product myself but have heard that it works from someone I trust. If anyone tries it, I would like to know how they actually do it and how it turns out. As I recall, it takes about $100 for the materials to do a big tank.
for all kinds of reasons. Chlorine bleach disinfection is but one. You might try the Permaflex coating to seal the leaks and coat the inside surfaces of an aluminum tank. Note that bleach is bad for it too. I haven't used this product myself but have heard that it works from someone I trust. If anyone tries it, I would like to know how they actually do it and how it turns out. As I recall, it takes about $100 for the materials to do a big tank.
Repairing POLY
If you can get access to the leak, a sodering iron can do wonders on POLY tanks. I can think of no reason for a POLY tank to leak except abrasion (rub a hole) or seam leak (unlikly at worst). I have also seen POLY sticks that you can use like a glue gun stick. As for taking the tank out and repairing it, I'd make sure that the TANK is leaking FIRST. Dry out everything in the Vee birth and then check ALL the fittings. Hunter put these tanks in pretty tight and I find it hard to believe that you rubbed a hole in it. My $$$$ would be on a leaking hose clamp. I don't want you to think I'm being hard on you, I almost removed my forward tank until I noticed the hose leak as I was getting ready to "perform surgery".
If you can get access to the leak, a sodering iron can do wonders on POLY tanks. I can think of no reason for a POLY tank to leak except abrasion (rub a hole) or seam leak (unlikly at worst). I have also seen POLY sticks that you can use like a glue gun stick. As for taking the tank out and repairing it, I'd make sure that the TANK is leaking FIRST. Dry out everything in the Vee birth and then check ALL the fittings. Hunter put these tanks in pretty tight and I find it hard to believe that you rubbed a hole in it. My $$$$ would be on a leaking hose clamp. I don't want you to think I'm being hard on you, I almost removed my forward tank until I noticed the hose leak as I was getting ready to "perform surgery".
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