I just purchased a Hunter 31. It has not been used for several years. I would like to clean the water tank but I am not sure how. I think the water inlet in on the back of the boat. Do I add anything to the water? I looks like a hose fitting. There is also a water heater. Are there any precautions or other instructions before operating the water heater? Thanks
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Check the archives of this website under "re-commissioning water system" (or similar). Peggy Hall has a step by step outline of what to do, and I can testify that it worked for me.
I'm gonna post the directions one more time:
Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. This should be done at least annually and also gets rid of the taste/smell of antifreeze.
Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. This should be done at least annually and also gets rid of the taste/smell of antifreeze.
One More Time!
Peggy, I'm sure you are already doing a cut and paste to produce those instructions, but it is hard to imagine that the question isn't going to be asked at least 6-10 times each spring, not to mention the occasional request at other times. I wonder if it is possible to create a knowledge base section within the forums where some of this information could go. Probably not in your best interest with your book so readily available. Maybe you should just print the instructions for the first 2 or 3 steps and have the next step be "Buy the Book!". Are you coming out to Oakland for the sail boat show next month? Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Peggy, I'm sure you are already doing a cut and paste to produce those instructions, but it is hard to imagine that the question isn't going to be asked at least 6-10 times each spring, not to mention the occasional request at other times. I wonder if it is possible to create a knowledge base section within the forums where some of this information could go. Probably not in your best interest with your book so readily available. Maybe you should just print the instructions for the first 2 or 3 steps and have the next step be "Buy the Book!". Are you coming out to Oakland for the sail boat show next month? Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
It was a collection of "knowledge base" articles
that led to my book!
I can't put up another one without violating the terms of my contract with my publisher. They're not exactly thrilled about the amount of copy/paste from it I'm doing, but allow it 'cuz it does sell books (speaking which, see link below). I wouldn't dare post only the first part of any instructions...I've had enough experience to know that somebody will assume they're the complete instructions and then claim they don't work! Not gonna make it to Oakland this year...wish I were, though.
that led to my book!
I can't put up another one without violating the terms of my contract with my publisher. They're not exactly thrilled about the amount of copy/paste from it I'm doing, but allow it 'cuz it does sell books (speaking which, see link below). I wouldn't dare post only the first part of any instructions...I've had enough experience to know that somebody will assume they're the complete instructions and then claim they don't work! Not gonna make it to Oakland this year...wish I were, though.Buy Peggie's Book
Peggie always does a great job answering questions on this and other topics. Thank you! Her book is easy to read and has lots of useful information. It's a good investment.
Peggie always does a great job answering questions on this and other topics. Thank you! Her book is easy to read and has lots of useful information. It's a good investment.
Book
Peggy, Too bad you won't make Oakland. I was hoping for an autographed copy. It makes sense that your publisher would be concerned about the amount of cut and paste from the book. However, I do tend to think that your presence here and responses probably help your sales. I'll look for a copy at the show and hunt you down somewhere for the autograph. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Peggy, Too bad you won't make Oakland. I was hoping for an autographed copy. It makes sense that your publisher would be concerned about the amount of cut and paste from the book. However, I do tend to think that your presence here and responses probably help your sales. I'll look for a copy at the show and hunt you down somewhere for the autograph. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Signed copies are available from the online
chandlery here. They sell 'em, I sign and mail 'em. It' called "Get Rid of Boat Odors--A Guide to Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravatin and Odor" See link below, which includes a list of all the chapters in it. Thanks for giving me an opportunity to plug it!
chandlery here. They sell 'em, I sign and mail 'em. It' called "Get Rid of Boat Odors--A Guide to Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravatin and Odor" See link below, which includes a list of all the chapters in it. Thanks for giving me an opportunity to plug it!
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