I thought my bilge pump was working a little overtime lately...Thougt I might have still have a deck leak somewhere, but no. It's the aluminum water tanks, both of them. After 22 years the old corrosion monster has eaten a little hole somewhere. Pulled the gauge out and peeked inside: corrosion city..an aluminum oxide factory. Plan "A" is installing a bladder, after cutting an access hole above and forr the inlet/outlet lines. Replacing the tank with poly is out of the question. The setee is apparently an important structural component of the hull, and the whole top would have to come off. Plastimo and Vetus flexible tanks which would fit are about 40 gal, so we'll lose some volume, as well as pick up some "off flavor". These are the standard "Florida Tank" 54 gallon jobs that are original on this series of hunter. Those of you out there with 20 year old aluminum tanks: be warned, your time is coming. Makes me worry even more about those few drops of water eating away at the diesel tank (yikes!). I know this topic has been explored, but any advice is welcome. Is a there a baffle in this tank?
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baffles, yes.
There are two baffles in the port tank, one in the starboard side. It's going to be a major deal to put the bladder(s) in. For what it's worth, the settees are not in any way a structural member. I'd recommend cutting cleanouts and using epoxy to seal them. That is the approach I took on the port side that I converted to fuel, and if (well, when) the starboard side leaks, I'll do the same there. Here's a little help: http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/watertnk.html
There are two baffles in the port tank, one in the starboard side. It's going to be a major deal to put the bladder(s) in. For what it's worth, the settees are not in any way a structural member. I'd recommend cutting cleanouts and using epoxy to seal them. That is the approach I took on the port side that I converted to fuel, and if (well, when) the starboard side leaks, I'll do the same there. Here's a little help: http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/watertnk.html
CIB 1061
I agree with Gene but intend to go a step further with my tanks. I have discovered a two part epoxy used to coat the inside of water towers and have spoke with the distributor about using it on aluminum tanks. Its can be sprayed and I intend to enter through my clean-outs to do this. When cured it has the consistency of rubber. Can,t remember the maker of this product but if your interested contact an industrial paint supplier about CIB 1061 and they should give you more info. Soon as I finish my current projects I'll be starting on my tanks.
I agree with Gene but intend to go a step further with my tanks. I have discovered a two part epoxy used to coat the inside of water towers and have spoke with the distributor about using it on aluminum tanks. Its can be sprayed and I intend to enter through my clean-outs to do this. When cured it has the consistency of rubber. Can,t remember the maker of this product but if your interested contact an industrial paint supplier about CIB 1061 and they should give you more info. Soon as I finish my current projects I'll be starting on my tanks.
Also see photos. . .
of Ron Pearson's fix in Related Link. He removed his and is making new ones from plywood and epoxy. Just removing them would make them much easier to repair I think. At any rate I believe you will have to cut the top of the settees open to have room to make cleanout ports. You need to get between those baffles that Gene describes. Picture is of Ron's tanks. They look so nice. . .from the outside.
of Ron Pearson's fix in Related Link. He removed his and is making new ones from plywood and epoxy. Just removing them would make them much easier to repair I think. At any rate I believe you will have to cut the top of the settees open to have room to make cleanout ports. You need to get between those baffles that Gene describes. Picture is of Ron's tanks. They look so nice. . .from the outside.
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