After finding residue clogging my faucet strainers, I decided it was time to cut an access hole in the port-side water tank top of my H34. I chose a 8” OD Beckson clear-top port for this project. A tape measure was used to determine the tank top’s dimensions and then to approximate the center in order to locate where to install the access port.
Once this was determined, a vibrating saw was used to cut a square lid out the seat top, below which the access port was to be installed. Pictured below are some of the tools used to complete this project. Not shown is a scroll-head jigsaw that enabled the actual tank cut-out to be made.
(Picture 1)
Once the location was determined, a vibrating saw was used to first define the corner cuts, then to link them to create a square cut-out in the port-side settee top that would become the lid when the project was completed.
(Picture 2)
With the seat-top panel removed, the Beckson port itself was utilized to lay out the cut line circle. A scrolling-head jigsaw was used to make the cut because it allowed the body of the saw to be centered in the opening while the saw was rotated to make the circular cut-out.
(Picture 4)
With the tank top cut open, a hand pump was used to remove all the water it could before a sponge was used to remove the last amount. The tank was found to contain a residue of rust, which must have come from the marina’s old dock water system. Also noticeable on the tank’s walls were the various water levels that had sat in the tank at different times.
(Pictures 5 & 6)
The rust residue was wiped up and a “Magic Eraser” was used to remove all the stain lines. The Beckson access port was inserted in the tank opening and the first hole was drilled through the tank top, then tapped for the stainless machine screw’s thread pitch. A machine screw was installed to hold the rim in place. The rim was aligned and the next hole drilled was directly opposite the first one of the six to achieve an even fit. This process was repeated back and forth across the rim in the same manner until all the other holes were drilled, tapped, and fitted with the machine screws.
(Picture 7)
All machine screws were then removed and on the back side of the port’s rim a thick bead of silicon sealant was put in place. The rim was set back in the tank top in same position it was dry-mounted in and, one-by-one back and forth, the machine screws were inserted and hand started in the threads. Each opposite was carefully tightened down in the same manner that you would torque an engine head in place.
The tank material is thin, so over-tightening will strip out the threads. The trick is to just snug them up so that the silicone spreads out but is not squeezed out. Once the rim was installed, a small hand vac with extension hose was used to remove all the cutting and drilling residue and remaining rust particles.
(Picture 8)
To support the lid piece that was cut out, frame rails had to be cut and fitted.
(Picture 10 & 11)
The lid was taken home and passed through a router’s round-over bit on both sides to smooth the edges. All told, this project took about two hours to complete. It has made checking the tank’s water level a snap (of a flashlight’s switch), and will make winterization nearly painless.
(Picture 12)
Once this was determined, a vibrating saw was used to cut a square lid out the seat top, below which the access port was to be installed. Pictured below are some of the tools used to complete this project. Not shown is a scroll-head jigsaw that enabled the actual tank cut-out to be made.
(Picture 1)
Once the location was determined, a vibrating saw was used to first define the corner cuts, then to link them to create a square cut-out in the port-side settee top that would become the lid when the project was completed.
(Picture 2)
With the seat-top panel removed, the Beckson port itself was utilized to lay out the cut line circle. A scrolling-head jigsaw was used to make the cut because it allowed the body of the saw to be centered in the opening while the saw was rotated to make the circular cut-out.
(Picture 4)
With the tank top cut open, a hand pump was used to remove all the water it could before a sponge was used to remove the last amount. The tank was found to contain a residue of rust, which must have come from the marina’s old dock water system. Also noticeable on the tank’s walls were the various water levels that had sat in the tank at different times.
(Pictures 5 & 6)
The rust residue was wiped up and a “Magic Eraser” was used to remove all the stain lines. The Beckson access port was inserted in the tank opening and the first hole was drilled through the tank top, then tapped for the stainless machine screw’s thread pitch. A machine screw was installed to hold the rim in place. The rim was aligned and the next hole drilled was directly opposite the first one of the six to achieve an even fit. This process was repeated back and forth across the rim in the same manner until all the other holes were drilled, tapped, and fitted with the machine screws.
(Picture 7)
All machine screws were then removed and on the back side of the port’s rim a thick bead of silicon sealant was put in place. The rim was set back in the tank top in same position it was dry-mounted in and, one-by-one back and forth, the machine screws were inserted and hand started in the threads. Each opposite was carefully tightened down in the same manner that you would torque an engine head in place.
The tank material is thin, so over-tightening will strip out the threads. The trick is to just snug them up so that the silicone spreads out but is not squeezed out. Once the rim was installed, a small hand vac with extension hose was used to remove all the cutting and drilling residue and remaining rust particles.
(Picture 8)
To support the lid piece that was cut out, frame rails had to be cut and fitted.
(Picture 10 & 11)
The lid was taken home and passed through a router’s round-over bit on both sides to smooth the edges. All told, this project took about two hours to complete. It has made checking the tank’s water level a snap (of a flashlight’s switch), and will make winterization nearly painless.
(Picture 12)
