Water Suppressor and hoses

[garylinger]

I am getting close to doing my re-power (replacing the Yanmar 2QM15 with a Beta Marine 16). The mixing elbow on the Beta takes a 50 m.m. I.D. exhaust hose (equates to 2 inches I.D.) but the connector on the water suppressor uses a 1 5/8 in. I.D. hose. My question is can I use a piece of the 1 5/8 in. hose inside the 2 in. hose (O.D. of the 1 5/8 is supposed to be 2 in.) as a collar to fill the void? Is there a better way to make the connection short of replacing the complete exhaust system? Or would the 2 in. hose collapse enough using hose clamps? Any suggestions?

As an aside, I will soon be ready to dispose of the old Yanmar (cracked head but everything else seems good) as either a whole unit or parting it out.

 

[Steve Dion]

Gary: Why not just change out the water muffler (water suppressor) at the same time? I do not think you want any restriction on the exhaust.

 

[garylinger]

COST! I would need to pay several hundred $ for the suppressor (wet muffler) plus a significant amount for about 15 feet of the hose and then there is the exhaust thru-hull.

 

[Steve Dion]

I guess it will not make much difference if your engine does not perform properly.

Diesels need to breath. I would contact a dealer and ask them for an opinion. I am sure that many have had this issue. If they tell you it is OKAY, then you may consider proceeding.

They can probably direct you to some adapters too.

 

[BobM]

Cost

COST! I would need to pay several hundred $ for the suppressor (wet muffler) plus a significant amount for about 15 feet of the hose and then there is the exhaust thru-hull.

Cost is about $90 for 12 feet of 2" trident exhaust hose x 2 = $180 worst case
Cost is about $165 for a new muffler (Vetus Waterlift)
A thru hull is $50 (Groco SS 2")

Given that the 1 5/8 was fine for the 2QM15 (I have the same drive train) I can see why you are tempted to accept that it is fine for the new 16 hp engine. Personally I'd pass on making a creative connection below the water line and the top of the water lift muffler is below the water line at least when heeled. A connection immediately after the mixing elbow on the beta is still pretty low (in the photos I looked at) in the hull compared to the old 2QM15 design. If that is true, that leaves the only usable location for a transition at the high point after the water muffler. So that saves you about ten feet of hose and a thru hull, so say $120, plus the effort of changing the thru hull.

Don't forget the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning when creating connections either!

 

[druid]

2" is certainly better, but 1 5/8" will do. You wouldn't see a significant drop in performance in a 16hp engine.

There are 2" to 1 5/8" adapters, but most are plastic or fibreglass and are intended to be used AFTER the waterlift. The hose-inside-a-hose will not work - nowhere near tight enough. In fact, be careful interchanging 2" and 50mm: 2" is 50.8mm, and that .8mm will bite you! It can be done, but the 2" hose will be very loose on the hosebarb and will need a LOT of cranking down.

If you go "up" from the 50mm hosebarb, there's usually a threaded connection: you can screw in a 50mm -> 1 5/* hosebarb. Failing that, you might be able to thread the hosebarb and screw an adapter on. I like SS, but the same material as the mixing elbow might be best.

But these things aren't cheap! You might be better off changing the waterlift and adapting after it (using the above-mentioned adapters)

druid

 

[garylinger]

I appreciate the advice. Bob, I got the 'high rise' elbow as recommended by Stanley at Beta so it is at least as high as the Yanmar elbow was, if not a little higher. If you have vendors in mind would you please email them to me. The only prices I have seen so far are West Marine and Defender and they aren't cheap.

 

[petersea]

The hose inside a hose will not work as everyone suggested. However a pipe inside will maybe even try the local hardware store for hose barb connections and make an adapter. Fiberglass would be great but most likely not available maybe PVC as the water temp should be cool enough at that point or better yet stainless steel. Not to be rude but you are spending thousands on the new engine, spend a couple of more hundred and replace the exhaust system also. In the long run it will be worth it remember how old is the original hose and exhaust system anyway ??

 

[Ross]

Keep in mind that the 2 inch hose has 50 percent more area than the 1 5/8 hose. At low speed you may not notice but at full throttle you probably will.

 

[redhead78]

Gary, I feel your pain I am repowering with a 35HP beta, that is only the beginning, I need high rise option, new, seacock, 16'- 2" exh hose, new muffler, I am changing from side waterline exhaust to transom, so I need to install a thru hull exhaust port. water separator, primary fuel filter, bilge fan, needed for 100 amp altternator, throttle and cables, 66" stainless propeller shaft, propeller, new stuffing box, I am done with dripless, I feel like I have been raped..... love the boat....might as well make it right.I was told after all the work i am doing, with all new motor tec ect, to use a 1977 exhaust system would be foolish, motors # 1 enemy, is heat heat heat, diesels run hot however water intake and exhaust systems are very important and often overlooked. Where did you get your Beta engine? Red

 

[garylinger]

After the responses I have gotten and after consulting the Beta rep (bought it from the distributor in N.C. - Stanley) I have decided to bite the bullet and do it right. It means more money that I don't have and more time that I didn't want to take but....I want it to be right. I will replace the entire run of hose, the water suppressor (water lift) and the thru-hull.

 

[woodster]

shop for hose on ebay gary they have a good selection from time to time and you may as well look for a water muffler and fittings while you are at it ......i see these things all the time while surfin wont hurt to try ...and good luck

regards

woody

 

[redhead78]

Gary, that is good, after all the money you already spent, its a good idea. I was the same. like where does it end, although I have a boat that is useless without a motor.For the last 3 years or so I have been afraid to take a trip, with my existing motor, I knew it was done. Motoring in and out of the anchorage I was able to put up with it, but what a pain. As long as I am breathing I will be sailing, and I could not replace the 38" boat I have so it is well worth it to me.So far the job has been ok, have not had many setbacks, I am a carpenter contractor and with the support I get from the dealer and these sites has been great. Happy Motoring...Red

 

[BobM]

Prices

I appreciate the advice. Bob, I got the 'high rise' elbow as recommended by Stanley at Beta so it is at least as high as the Yanmar elbow was, if not a little higher. If you have vendors in mind would you please email them to me. The only prices I have seen so far are West Marine and Defender and they aren't cheap.

The prices I quoted were from www.jamestowndistributors.com but I also checked boatersworld, which has free shipping but didn't have good prices (unusual for them) and this site didn't have much variety. It is worth calling Phil to see what he can do for you once you figure out what you need though.

 

[garylinger]

Re: Prices

I have ordered the water lift - should be delivered tomorrow. My next question is about the thru-hull - should I go with bronze, 'plastic' or what? I have never installed or replaced a thru-hull and want to make sure it is done right. I did a search on this forum and didn't see anything that gave detailed info.

 

[BobM]

Re: Prices

You can also probably get good prices on hose from industrial supply houses. I found one in my local city and went there. I actually got a much higher quality hose too. There is a Grainger Supply warehouse near you. Bring them a piece of your existing hose and say you want 2".

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...n+2"&op=search&sst=All&Ntt=suction+2"&N=13561

here is the link to Goodyear's site which will give you a PN to cross reference

http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=14894

Its actually a fuel fill hose too, so your cheapest source might turn out to be a truck repair shop. List of hose retailers below with a truck stop 30 miles from your house (Silco in Calloa VA).

http://www.goodyearep.com/locatorrp...ds_SearchRange=50&StoreLocatorFields_Product=

 

[BobM]

Re: Prices

I recalled that I have a friend who sells truck parts on the internet. He is a diesel mechanic. I sent him an email to see if he can hook you up at a good price. I'll let you know.

Bob

 

[petersea]

My next question is about the thru-hull - should I go with bronze, 'plastic' or what? I have never installed or replaced a thru-hull and want to make sure it is done right.

just my opinion here but I personally would go with the bronze. The "plastic" (generic term) while it will work because you will be above the water line may not be the best for this application. Thru hulls are pretty straight forward to install there are some good articles in the archives about sealing the hole with epoxy etc etc , just make sure to use a good quality sealant and lots of it ! Also there are specific exhaust thru hull with a "extension" so the exhaust water does not roll down you transom getting it dirty. (especially if you transom is sloped) Go with the bronze or even a bronze chrome plated one if you want fancy !

 

[BobM]

No luck

I recalled that I have a friend who sells truck parts on the internet. He is a diesel mechanic. I sent him an email to see if he can hook you up at a good price. I'll let you know.

Bob

He said he hasn't been able to get good prices on this because they sell it in lengths and not in bulk.

 

[BobM]

Thru hull installation

I have ordered the water lift - should be delivered tomorrow. My next question is about the thru-hull - should I go with bronze, 'plastic' or what? I have never installed or replaced a thru-hull and want to make sure it is done right. I did a search on this forum and didn't see anything that gave detailed info.

Mainesail has done a lot on his site regarding proper mounting of a thru hull with a ball valve, but I don't think you need to do so for an exhaust outlet, which I presume you are working on. I would just buy a part purpose built for this above the water line purpose. Don't use plastic unless it is fiberglass reinforced Mareleron. Given the location close to the water you may want to consider a unit with a flap or check valve for following seas. I think that is how water is getting in through my rudder bearing so I would plan for there to be times when the exhaust is submerged.