Not quite sailing related but it is the boat's salon table which has a water stain I'd like to eliminate. Before taking an iron to it as some home DIY sites recommend, does anyone have a safer option for raw teak table top?
Water stains on teak table
- Thread starter Don S/V ILLusion
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if it is dry I don't know what an iron would do. If it is a true stain then bleaching with oxalic acid is the first option. Scraping with a sharp scraper is next, that will remove some wood. Sanding is a posibility but very slow.
is the wood itself stained or is the stain in the finish? (hard to tell from the pic)
either way probably want to remove all the finish on the table top since it is really hard to get a perfect match and make a seamless repair.
I also would recommend scraping the stain area carefully and then slightly handsanding the entire surface with a 220 grid
Ironing...I only used that with dents before, the problem is that when the iron is too hot you can easily burn or at least darken some more of your wood which I don't think is what you are going for
a slightly tinted wood finish also does wonders in hiding some color differences
either way probably want to remove all the finish on the table top since it is really hard to get a perfect match and make a seamless repair.
I also would recommend scraping the stain area carefully and then slightly handsanding the entire surface with a 220 grid
Ironing...I only used that with dents before, the problem is that when the iron is too hot you can easily burn or at least darken some more of your wood which I don't think is what you are going for
a slightly tinted wood finish also does wonders in hiding some color differences
Oil finish?
The other option would be to lightly sand the whole table and varnish it. Inside a varnish job should last a very long time.
Bob
It can't be unfinished. Is it an oil finish? I'd suggest adding another coat of oil. If you got a water stain it isn't doing its job anymore anyway. I'd also take some fine steel or brass wool. Soak it in the oil and sand the water spot carefully to remove it. I just did this today to remove some stains on a teak grill cart. Worked like a charm.
The other option would be to lightly sand the whole table and varnish it. Inside a varnish job should last a very long time.
Bob
It is unfinished... I did try some teak oil as well as boiled linseed oil to see if either would mask the stain but neither worked. My perception is brass wool, soaked or otherwise, will serve to cut the surface.
I'd prefer to not waste the time refinishing the entire table in varnish or anything else which would require maintenance - already have enough of that to do.
Oh well...
We had a water stain that wasn't as bad or as defined as yours. We just kept reapplying teak oil over and over as long as it would keep soaking it up. It will still soak it up but the stain has blended in much more now. We know it's there but I doubt that a guest would notice. We've probably applied 6 to 8 coats over 10 months.
An old trick that I learned to get stains and blemishes out of wood is to put a damp rag on to moisten the wood and then but a layer of cigarette ashes over the top of the stained area and let them sit there for a day or two. Dont laugh until you try it. Amazingly this works!!
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That makes good sense! the alkali in the ash has long been used to pickle wood. Fireplace wood ashes would serve just as well.
This is an area in which I have some expertise and much experience as I have been making colonial reproduction furniture and restoring antiques for decades along with making teak joinery for even longer.
Ross's first answer is the correct and easiest one to implement.
Oxalic acid is one of the strongest of the organic acids and is a reducing agent that does not damage wood fibers. This is why it is the woodworker's preferred wood bleaching agent. It is readily available as the operative ingredient in Kaboom, Barkeeper's Friend and ZUD, all of which can be found inexpensively in your local supermarket. Make a paste of the powders or spray the Kaboom and apply to the stained area only. Soak for 30 minutes, wipe off and the rinse thoroughly with water. Repeat as needed. If you get it too light, a quick and light touch up wipe with Minwax red mahogany stain will get you a close color match.
A couple of coats of high quality tung oil will eliminate your water staining problems and will last for years. It is easy to apply, self hardening and very durable.
Ross's first answer is the correct and easiest one to implement.
Oxalic acid is one of the strongest of the organic acids and is a reducing agent that does not damage wood fibers. This is why it is the woodworker's preferred wood bleaching agent. It is readily available as the operative ingredient in Kaboom, Barkeeper's Friend and ZUD, all of which can be found inexpensively in your local supermarket. Make a paste of the powders or spray the Kaboom and apply to the stained area only. Soak for 30 minutes, wipe off and the rinse thoroughly with water. Repeat as needed. If you get it too light, a quick and light touch up wipe with Minwax red mahogany stain will get you a close color match.
A couple of coats of high quality tung oil will eliminate your water staining problems and will last for years. It is easy to apply, self hardening and very durable.
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